Commuting - Shimano Hub Generator...

I am happy with my Cateye headlamp for now...

However, going into fall then winter I will be using lights more...

Thinking about installing the Shimano DH-3N71 hub generator onto my Open Pro front wheel..

Any opinions...

http://www.bike2build.nl/fotogroot/shi06dh3n70.jpg

I tooled around on a bike at the shop equipped with one. I was impressed with the lack of friction from the front hub (my recollection was that on earlier hubs had a distinct drag). The light that it gave off was adequate if not generous.

my bike came with one and matching lights front and rear.

very happy with the rear led, the front light however is not that bright. good at making you seen but can't really see far with it.

Thanks, I was reading where they were trying to decrease the drag to compete with the Schmidt hub.

I tooled around on a bike at the shop equipped with one. I was impressed with the lack of friction from the front hub (my recollection was that on earlier hubs had a distinct drag). The light that it gave off was adequate if not generous.

Do you know how much labor is needed to switch out the hub? It is just a matter of removing one and installing the other? Or do you have to rerun the spokes, more or less building a whole new wheel?

Odds are that the spoke length needed for the new generator hub will be much different than the hub it is replacing. I would count on buying a full count of new spokes for the wheel plus labor (unless you are skilled at wheel building).

Edit: If it was me I would just have a whole new wheel built around the generator. That way you can swap it in and out when it is not needed.

Odds are that the spoke length needed for the new generator hub will be much different than the hub it is replacing. I would count on buying a full count of new spokes for the wheel plus labor (unless you are skilled at wheel building).

Edit: If it was me I would just have a whole new wheel built around the generator. That way you can swap it in and out when it is not needed.

Great advice. :beer:

No doubt, the cost would be close to building a wheel.

Get a new wheel built with the generator in it. Hand-built wheels are a good idea even if there is no generator hub installed. I've had my hub for four years now -- best thing I did for my bike, hands down.

Paul

I've got the 3N30 that comes stock on the model of Breezer I have. No problems. I don't think the drag is really all that noticible, but then I'm not trying to go super fast or anything.

If you purchase a hub dynamo you may want to build an LED lighting system for it. The electronic design work has already been done at this link.
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm
Bulbs used for bicycle dynamo systems are relativity expensive and burn out after 20 or so hours of use. In any case you should always carry a spare. Using an LED light eliminates filament burn out and replacement problems. Always carry a backup lighting system if nothing more than a simple flashlight you can clamp to the handlebar somewhere.
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DualPowerManu.jpg

I am using the same hub, w/ disc mount, with Lumotec lighting. Couldn't be happier with it. The dynohub is quite a bit larger in diameter than any regular front hub, so new spokes will be needed

I am using the same hub, w/ disc mount, with Lumotec lighting. Couldn't be happier with it. The dynohub is quite a bit larger in diameter than any regular front hub, so new spokes will be needed

For a radially-laced wheel, a change of 10mm in the hub's spoke-hole diameter corresponds to a change of 10mm in the spoke length.

But for many wheels with a 3 or 4 cross pattern, a change of 10mm in hub's spoke-hole diameter means a change of 0 to 2 mm in spoke length.

If you purchase a hub dynamo you may want to build an LED lighting system for it. The electronic design work has already been done at this link.
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm
Bulbs used for bicycle dynamo systems are relativity expensive and burn out after 20 or so hours of use. In any case you should always carry a spare. Using an LED light eliminates filament burn out and replacement problems. Always carry a backup lighting system if nothing more than a simple flashlight you can clamp to the handlebar somewhere.
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DualPowerManu.jpg

Thanks, I found where the headlight bulb costs about $5.

Bulbs used for bicycle dynamo systems are relativity expensive and burn out after 20 or so hours of use.

Not in my experience. I've run a Lumotec DIWA Oval, Secondary E6 light and a taillight since January and have replaced one bulb.

I agree with the other posters that suggeseted getting a whole new or "winter wheel" built up. This is exactly my plan for this winter. I have been putting a little cash aside when I can since I really won't need them for at least three maybe four months. In fact I have not even priced it out yet I just suspect it will be closer to $150 than $100.

Not in my experience. I've run a Lumotec DIWA Oval, Secondary E6 light and a taillight since January and have replaced one bulb.
My first Lumotec bulb needed replacement after 9 months of use, and I run the light so it's always on when I pedal. I was impressed. :) I paid $6 for it, but the extra $1 was worth the convenience of being able to ride to a store a mile away and come home with it.

Just replace the hub and forget about the winter wheel thing. Do you install lights on your car in the winter? A hub generator eliminates the possibility of being caught out after dark without a light, and provides a real liberating feeling.

I have been running a lumotec halogen headlight for three years now (powered by a Schmidt), and have not burned a bulb out yet. On the other hand, the lumotec LED on my other bike has almost exactly the same light pattern, less drag (not noticeable when riding, but it is on the stand), and as previously stated, they essentially don't burn out.

If you are used to the megawattage provided by some battery-powered trail riding lights, these lights do not put out a huge amount of light, but I find them plenty for anything short of a 40 mph descent in a setting with no other lighting. For that, I have a secondary light (don't know if the shimano will handle 2 headlights).

I started out thinking that I would replace the dynamo wheel in the summer. After four years, the spare wheel still sits in my garage, having never been used since I took it off the bike. The drag is so slight and the convenience so great that there is no reason to do so. I've got three years on my present Lumotec bulb. That's at least a hundred hours, since I use the headlights by day when it rains. At some point, I will probably go to LED, but the small size of the halogen bulbs helps them focus well.

Paul

My single bike, my tandem and my daughter's bike are all equipped with a dynohub. I built the wheel myself with new shorter spokes (and re-used the rim), so cost was kept relatively low.

As for headlights, avoid the Shimano headlight, because they use an under-volted bulb to avoid bulb failure at high speed. Either get the switched DLumotec (LED) or Lumotec (standard halogen) for city riding, or the Schmidt E-6 if you plan on riding on pitch dark roads. IMy daughter uses my old Lumotec (she doesn't do much night riding) and I use the E-6. All three systems use a 3 W main headlight bulb and a battery taillight.

As for 'keeping the old wheel to use when the generator isn't needed", I find that the greatest advantage of the generator system is to be always there. Swapping wheels would defeat that purpose.

That hub + a Lumotec Oval Plus headlight, and a B&M DToplight tail light on my commuter. It's been great, very little drag with the lights on, none when they are off. The hub also has threads for a rotor if you ever want to go with a front disk.

+1 on avoiding the Shimano headlight, in comparison to the Lumotecs, it was a toy, the hub however is a fine piece of machinery.

Hi there....I was in your same position a few months ago...I build my own wheels and wanted to wheel with a generator hub....the flanges are pretty high, so chances are you will definitely need new spokes...

I built the wheel using Deep Vs, so it's pretty slick looking...i actually use it between two bikes (my around town fixie/porteur bike and my loaded touring bike)...

it's nice to never have to worry about batteries...however a good headlight is key...i bought an InoLed 10+ LED light from peter white cycles and am happy with it....not quite as bright as my niterider head light, but bright enough to see with and it has a "stand" light, so it doesn't shut off at a stop...

Is the Sturmey Archer Dynamo Drum Brake (http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPHUGEN/HU2200) worth a look? Seems like great bang for the buck to me, especially for winter use!

Edit: After reading about this wondrous Inolight 10+ Headlight (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/inoled.asp), I'm shocked to hear, "...if you ride fast enough without a taillight plugged in, the Inolights will overheat and the internal circuitry will be damaged." I'd think it would be quite simple to add regulator circuitry in there, especially for a $100.00 headlight!

I recommend the hub. I have these and the Schmidt, and while the Schmidt might be prettier and a hair less drag-imposing (mostly no difference though) the Shimano works well. I suggest using a Lumotec halogen with a standlight--they make oval and round with both manual and automatic switching versions of that lamp. You can get a plug for the Shimano hub at Harris Cyclery if your hub doesn't already come with one. That will make it possible to mate the hub with any of the several lamps available for the Schmidt hub.

If you are looking to put it on an existing wheel, unless you are using super-costly rims, it would be more cost-effective to have a complete new wheel made, since your spoke calculation might change and everything would be same age/ wear.

You will have to get different spokes and have a wheel built, same holds true for internal hubs on the rear wheels. It's larger than a normal hub, not freakishly so but it's larger.

I'd love to get my hands on that Sturmey-Archer hub and see what it's like. From what I've gleamed off the net, it has more drag than the Shimano hubs, but still less than a bottle generator, and the brake is adequate with the potential to have an over heat problem on long heavy descents. But that's second and third hand opinion; I'd still like it to build a completely inclosed commuter (internal hub, roller, coster, or drum brakes, dynohub, chaincase).

That hub + a Lumotec Oval Plus headlight, and a B&M DToplight tail light on my commuter.
I have exactly the same setup. It is a bit heavy but then if you're on the commuting thread, you're probably already hulking around a ton of cra@p.

I keep the light on at all times and really like never having to worry about lights or whatever.

I got what I think is a pretty good deal on a Villiger Montreal off the *bay, and it has the Dtoplight taillight and Lumotec Oval (not sure if it's plus) headlamp. I assembled the bike yesterday and plugged in the taillight into the two tiny prongs under the headlamp, but it didn't come on. I didn't see a seperate switch on it? I opened it, and inside are only LED's and circuitry on the left side. Any ideas?

(not sure if it's plus) headlamp. I assembled the bike yesterday and plugged in the taillight into the two tiny prongs under the headlamp, but it didn't come on. I didn't see a seperate switch on it? I opened it, and inside are only LED's and circuitry on the left side. Any ideas?

You may need to swap the leads on the light, or the leads going to the taillight may be crossed.
Try the headlight by itself first then try to get the taillight working.

If the headlight stays on after the wheel stops it's a "Plus" version. There is a capacitor that needs to be charged to run the secondary LEDs in the standlight. Spinning the front wheel a few times by hand is not enough to charge the capacitor, but riding the bike twenty or so yards will.

I recently wrote a short review on the new B&M Lumotec IQ Fly LED headlight here in the commuter forum. I use it in combination with the DH-3D71 hub generator. This new light is amazingly bright compared to all other dynamo powered headlights. It even beats the E6.

As for the Shimano hub generator: wonderful piece of kit.

I've used a Shimano dynamo hub with a Solidlights 1203D. Great combo. Especially because this hub has less rolling resistance with a slight load than zero load - don't ask me why!! The 1203D draws a slight load even when off and this is perfect for the Shimano hub.

I also have a SON I've used with the same light. Less drag on the SON, but not a big deal on a commute. Riding a double century I'd prefer thee SON.

I really like dynamo hubs. I have a Shimano HB NX-30 on my main commuter, which I leave on all the time. The bike has 16" wheels so I get ample voltage (15+ v!) which I have to run through a voltage regulator to keep it down to 12 volts, on which I run automotive bulbs and an automotive LED taillight. That makes a lot of light. I've also got one of the new Sturmey Archer dynamo - drum hubs; it's great especially on a bike with unsatisfactory rim brakes (a Raleigh Twenty, in my case). Not sure how its efficiency compares to the Shimano; indistinguishable to me, that is. My wife's bike has a 1966 SA Dynohub which is also really nice, but it does not put out very much light.

I agree that there is really no need for an extra front wheel. The new hub will mean your spokes are a couple mm too long; you can get new ones, have them shortened, or use up the extra length by doing a snowflake pattern (qv).

And seriously, build your own wheels. It's not rocket science. In fact it's great fun.

I have the DH-3D71 hub generator as well and the B&M DLumotec oval senso plus (the LED version). The light provides plenty of light to ride in the dark and the reistance is just about impossible to notice. Slight difference in tire pressure will make a more profound difference that turning my light on and off. I have used the old bottle generators in the past and those I could always feel the drag. With the Shimano hub I realy can't tell unless I am on very smooth pavement, then I can feel the very slight vibration caused by the wheel. I someone were to tqake my bike for a spin I don't think they'd be able to tell that the light was on unless they looked at it.

I had a wheel built around the generator hub by Peter White. Due to my size (6'2.5" 215 Lbs) he recommended the Velocity Dyad wheels and they are very nice. I paid just under $300 for the light and the wheel. If I have problems with my rear wheel in the future and it is no longer under warrentee I'll have Peter build me a nice rear wheel as well. The nice thing with the hub generator is that don't have to deal with batteries. Now that things are getting darker I just leave it in the ON position. During the Summer when it is bright out I'll put is back to Auto mode. I am very happy with the light and have had some occasions to ride on a completely dark road and was able to see just fine. I did read the review of the new QFly light and if it had been available when I ordered my "stuff" I would have probably considered it, but I am quite content with what I have.

Happy riding,
André