Touring - Help Me Spec my Custom Surly LHT Build!

I was going to get a Rocky Mountain Sherpa but have had difficulties getting my hands on the bike. I've decided to do a custom build Surly LHT and would love some advice from everyone on specs. I have a buddy who builds bikes that will help me with putting it together. I want to be economical but not "cheap". I'm looking for a good build. The only thing I've settled on is the Brooks 17 saddle! I still haven't even settled on Shimano vs. Campy - my buddy likes Campy for touring bc he can put the cables under his bar tape which is better for his bar bag. Ok, I think this is a list of every part I'm going to need: Feel free to throw out some advice! Would be great if you knew the cost of the item you are recommending. I'm about 6' 0.5" and weight 220lbs if that helps with your selections. I want to build it for the potential for heavy touring. Thanks in advance. - Jeff


1) Drivetrain - Campy v. Shimano? and speed (10 speed, 9 speed or 8 speed?)
2) Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?)
3) Bottom Bracket
4) Chain
5) Front Derailleur
6) Cassette
7) Rear Derailleur
8) Brakes/Brake Pads
9) STI Shifters
10) Saddle - BROOKS 17
11) Seatpost
12) Stem
13) Headset
14) Wheels
15) Tires
16) Bars
17) Cables
18) Pedals (I'll probably just use my road speedplay x2 pedals)

Did I miss anything?

here's a link to my spec sheet (don't think I can copy/paste it)
http://www.thirdwave-websites.com/bike/surly-long-haul-trucker.cfm

you'll enjoy your LHT.

I'll bite because I'm waiting for banana bread to finish baking. mmmmm...

1) Campy doesn't make components suitable for touring imo. You can find, replace and repair Shimano stuff at nearly every bike shop.
2) For heavy touring a mountain crankset is best. A 110x74 BCD triple is also a good option. When carrying a bunch of crap up hills you'll always wish you had easier gears. Ask your friend to help you chose a crank length.
3) Whatever matches the crankset
4) SRAM chain with powerlink. They make 'em for 8,9,10 speeds
5) Whatever matches the largest chainring. Use a mountain FD with a mountain crankset. You don't need to go high end here.
6) Most shops probably stock 9-speed stuff for mountain bikes these days so I'd opt for a 9-speed 11-34 cassette.
7) Nothing fancy. Shimano Deore or LX is fine.
8) I personally hate v-brakes. The Tektro Oryx cantis are good. Paul touring cantis for high end option.
9) I wouldn't use STIs for touring but plenty of people do. Bar end shifters are fine but I like downtube shifters. Both of those options would keep cables away from your handlebar bag.
10) Good Choice!
11) Kalloy is cheap and comes in black or silver to match your color scheme.
12) Something that puts your handlebars in the right position. If you don't know your 'right' position, consider an adjustable stem.
13) Go big with a Chris King if you've got the funds. I like the Cane Creek S-3 as a mid-priced option.
14) The most important component! Opinions vary here so search the forum archives. Popular rims are the Velocity Dyad, Mavic A317, Sun Cr18. Popular hubs are Phil Wood and Shimano XT, which is an excellent value. Double butted spokes are stronger.
15) Schwalbe tires are nice because they have a reflective sidewall. There's too many models to name.
16) I like the Nitto Noodle and Nitto Randonneur
17) Add some bling with Nokon cable housing or just use the standard stuff.
18) I wouldn't use road clipless pedals for touring because the shoes are terrible for walking around. I use the Speedplay Frogs and love 'em. Many people tour with rattraps and toe straps. My wife doesn't even use toe straps!

I smell banana bread!!!

Hi jignail,

I'm not really sure what kind of parts you need for your build--there's a lot of different ways to go.
Here's were I'd start.

High quality rims.

http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=rims.bikedetail&id=7

Pair these with good hubs (DT Swiss or XT) for quality wheels. Being a heavier rider, good wheels are the most important thing.

Quality bottom bracket.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=29&pid=253

I'd pair this FSA square taper unit with a Sugino crankset. Phil wood might be better, but not for the money.

Qualty headset

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=34&pid=835

This is a very nice headset. Chris King might be better, but not for the extra cost.

I would stick to cheaper, but quality Shimano parts for the drivetrain--

8 speed barcon shifters
Sora FD
Deore LX RD
SRAM chain and Cassette.

All these parts are tour proven.

I'd think about spending a little more on the brakes-- Pauls are spendy, but very nice. IRD cantilevers are a little cheaper, but still good. Avid v-brakes are great as well.

In short, spend money on good bearings and wheels. You don't get the bling factor, but your bike will last a long time.

Good luck.

Hi jignail,


http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=rims.bikedetail&id=7

Pair these with good hubs (DT Swiss or XT) for quality wheels. Being a heavier rider, good wheels are the most important thing.


In short, spend money on good bearings and wheels. You don't get the bling factor, but your bike will last a long time.

Good luck.

Thanks for the recommendations! Just curiouis. Which DT swiss hubs do you recommend. They all seem pricey but some are pricier than others. I also assume you mean Shimano XT hubs? There's def a big difference in price between the DT swiss and XT's no? PS, I don't need disc brake capabilities on anything.

Jeff

I'll bite because I'm waiting for banana bread to finish baking. mmmmm...

1) Campy doesn't make components suitable for touring imo. You can find, replace and repair Shimano stuff at nearly every bike shop.
2) For heavy touring a mountain crankset is best. A 110x74 BCD triple is also a good option. When carrying a bunch of crap up hills you'll always wish you had easier gears. Ask your friend to help you chose a crank length.
3) Whatever matches the crankset
4) SRAM chain with powerlink. They make 'em for 8,9,10 speeds
5) Whatever matches the largest chainring. Use a mountain FD with a mountain crankset. You don't need to go high end here.
6) Most shops probably stock 9-speed stuff for mountain bikes these days so I'd opt for a 9-speed 11-34 cassette.
7) Nothing fancy. Shimano Deore or LX is fine.
8) I personally hate v-brakes. The Tektro Oryx cantis are good. Paul touring cantis for high end option.
9) I wouldn't use STIs for touring but plenty of people do. Bar end shifters are fine but I like downtube shifters. Both of those options would keep cables away from your handlebar bag.
10) Good Choice!
11) Kalloy is cheap and comes in black or silver to match your color scheme.
12) Something that puts your handlebars in the right position. If you don't know your 'right' position, consider an adjustable stem.
13) Go big with a Chris King if you've got the funds. I like the Cane Creek S-3 as a mid-priced option.
14) The most important component! Opinions vary here so search the forum archives. Popular rims are the Velocity Dyad, Mavic A317, Sun Cr18. Popular hubs are Phil Wood and Shimano XT, which is an excellent value. Double butted spokes are stronger.
15) Schwalbe tires are nice because they have a reflective sidewall. There's too many models to name.
16) I like the Nitto Noodle and Nitto Randonneur
17) Add some bling with Nokon cable housing or just use the standard stuff.
18) I wouldn't use road clipless pedals for touring because the shoes are terrible for walking around. I use the Speedplay Frogs and love 'em. Many people tour with rattraps and toe straps. My wife doesn't even use toe straps!

I smell banana bread!!!

Thanks so much for this well thought out list. I'm definitely using some of your suggestions. I hope your banana bread was tasty.

here's a link to my spec sheet (don't think I can copy/paste it)
http://www.thirdwave-websites.com/bike/surly-long-haul-trucker.cfm

you'll enjoy your LHT.

Sweet specs Ed. Thanks for sharing. Hope you are enjoying your bike.

Jeff

jignall,

I'd look at the DT mountian bike hubs--- all of them are very strong, but cost a lot of money. Shimano doesn't make the best bike parts in the world....but often make the best parts for the price. That's why so many bikes come stock with them. So XT or even LX hubs offer a lot of value.

As far a brakes, I wouldn't mess around with discs at all either. Stick to cantilever brakes or V-brakes. I love the feel of Pauls cantilevers-- they have a high about of modulation as well as stopping power. Avid Arch Rivals are great as well-- only the top end disc brakes have more power and Arch Rivals have as good of modulation as any brake made.

http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Brake_System/product_20477.shtml

I was going to get a Rocky Mountain Sherpa but have had difficulties getting my hands on the bike. I've decided to do a custom build Surly LHT and would love some advice from everyone on specs. I have a buddy who builds bikes that will help me with putting it together. I want to be economical but not "cheap". I'm looking for a good build. The only thing I've settled on is the Brooks 17 saddle! I still haven't even settled on Shimano vs. Campy - my buddy likes Campy for touring bc he can put the cables under his bar tape which is better for his bar bag. Ok, I think this is a list of every part I'm going to need: Feel free to throw out some advice! Would be great if you knew the cost of the item you are recommending. I'm about 6' 0.5" and weight 220lbs if that helps with your selections. I want to build it for the potential for heavy touring. Thanks in advance. - Jeff


1) Drivetrain - Campy v. Shimano? and speed (10 speed, 9 speed or 8 speed?)

Probably Shimano or a mountain bike crank, with XT rear derailer, Tiagra front, 9 speed. Shifters are personal choice but I like STI

2) Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?)

Doesn't matter too much. 175mm is easy to find. I'd look at the Shimano Trekking crank from Nashbar. This one (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=81&subcategory=1031&brand=&sku=17945&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20ATB%20Cranks) is one of the best values out there. Pair it to an 11-34 cassette and you'll have some damned fine gears:D

3) Bottom Bracket

The crank above takes an Octalink. If you want to spend the money, I'd go with the Shimano external bearing. Simple to work on and fix on the road. But those cranks are in the $200 to $300 range.

4) Chain

Sram 9 speed. Black. With power link. You don't need the high zoot chrome. Same chain just prettier.

5) Front Derailleur See above
6) Cassette

Sram or Shimano doesn't really matter. Damned Shimano is pretty good.

7) Rear Derailleur See above
8) Brakes/Brake Pads

Anything but Avid Shorty. I really hate to say that because I like Avid. But the Shortys just are too squeally...even with extreme toe-in. Shimano is making one that's pretty good. I have IRD Cafam. But they are $50+ per wheel. Shimano are $35

9) STI Shifters

Just about any will work. I have Tiagra and 105. I can't really tell the difference.

10) Saddle - BROOKS 17

Good choice. I like the B17 Narrow a bit more.

11) Seatpost

Salsa Shaft post is a good choice. Pretty easy to adjust angle. Race Face Deus or Evolve XC are even simpler to adjust. Get a Salsa LipLock seat post clamp.

12) Stem

Salsa Moto are good and come in a variety of rises.

13) Headset

King. 'nough said;) But if you can't afford King, Cane Creek S8 ($55) down to S2 ($25) will do just fine.

14) Wheels

Good ones. Have them built if you can. XT hubs, Mavic or Velocity rims, double butted spokes or, if you can find them, Alpine III.

15) Tires

I have Conti Top Touring but they don't make them anymore. I have Contacts on another bike that are almost as good.

16) Bars

Salsa Bell Laps. I put a pair of 46cm on my bike and think they're the bees knees;)

17) Cables

Whatever's handy. Teflon coated inner wires.

18) Pedals (I'll probably just use my road speedplay x2 pedals)

Did I miss anything?

Racks: Tubus. Tara, front and Cargo, rear.

1) Drivetrain - Campy v. Shimano? and speed (10 speed, 9 speed or 8 speed?)
Pick your shifters and work back from there.

2) Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?)
Find one of the crank length calculators. Just guessing based on your height, 175
3) Bottom Bracket
Depends on the crank
4) Chain
XT
5) Front Derailleur
one compatible with cranks and shifter...
6) Cassette
XT with a 32T or 34T low gear
7) Rear Derailleur
XT
8) Brakes/Brake Pads
Shimano cantis
9) STI Shifters
Tiagra
10) Saddle - BROOKS 17
great saddle, if it fits...
11) Seatpost
Kalloy Ultralite
12) Stem
anything that fits
13) Headset
just get a good cheap one
14) Wheels
Cyclocross wheels are a good cheap way to get wheels tough enough for touring
http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/c/WECRDIM







15) Tires
I have a suggestion
http://schwalbetires.com/marathon_supreme_home
16) Bars
I really like Ritchey BioMax with Off the Front Grip Shapes to contour the bar
1

Lot's of good suggestions already. The only thing I would add is that if you are not a gear basher, and would be happy with a 103.5 top end, then a 46-34-24 crank with a 12x34 nine speed cassette will give you both an excellent range, and good gear granularity. 12x34 is a little unusual, but Shimano makes one.

Speedo

I was going to get a Rocky Mountain Sherpa but have had difficulties getting my hands on the bike. I've decided to do a custom build Surly LHT and would love some advice from everyone on specs. I have a buddy who builds bikes that will help me with putting it together. I want to be economical but not "cheap". I'm looking for a good build. The only thing I've settled on is the Brooks 17 saddle! I still haven't even settled on Shimano vs. Campy - my buddy likes Campy for touring bc he can put the cables under his bar tape which is better for his bar bag. Ok, I think this is a list of every part I'm going to need: Feel free to throw out some advice! Would be great if you knew the cost of the item you are recommending. I'm about 6' 0.5" and weight 220lbs if that helps with your selections. I want to build it for the potential for heavy touring. Thanks in advance. - Jeff


1) Drivetrain - Campy v. Shimano? and speed (10 speed, 9 speed or 8 speed?)

9 speed.
Shimano XT.
I found a great deal on '06 XTR deraillers, check ebay.

2) Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?)

175mm

Shimano LX, XT or Hone will work great. The new '08 XT cranks are really nice. I prefer these types of cranks that tighten to the spindle and not just held on with a bolt like Sugino or other types of cranks. Also much easier to work on.

If you need to save money here, Sugino XD600 is popular. I don't really like square taper though.

3) Bottom Bracket

Comes with the Shimano LX/XT/HONE

4) Chain

Sram with powerlink, extra powerlinks.

5) Front Derailleur

Shimano XT, or -'06 XTR stuff can be found cheap. I got a '03 model XTR front derailler for 30 bucks shipped on ebay, new in box.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/th_LHT072.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/LHT072.jpg)


6) Cassette

The Sram PG990 is sweet looking and is a very strong design compared to the lower models that use pins and spacers to keep it all together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/th_LHT071.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/LHT071.jpg)

7) Rear Derailleur

Found my 960 XTR long cage der. for 70 bucks shipped on ebay. The new '08 XT der's look good.

I wanted a darker look instead of the silver on the XT so I chose to pay extra for the XTR.

8) Brakes/Brake Pads

I really like my IRD CAFAM's. They're forged, they weigh less than Shimano BR-R550's(my second choice) and they come with decent shoes. They also look nice too :)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/th_LHT069.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/LHT069.jpg)


9) STI Shifters

Nah

10) Saddle - BROOKS 17

I like the Selle Anatomica Titanico with the LD slot and waterproofed, much better than my B17.

http://www.selleanatomica.com/

11) Seatpost

Only way to go...Thomson

12) Stem
Thomson or Ritchey WCS 4 Axis. The Ritchey is incredibly light.

13) Headset
Ritchey WCS. Chris King is overrated...

I have a King on my bike :)

14) Wheels

This seller on ebay is very reputable and does really nice wheel builds.
http://stores.ebay.com/Rocky-Mountain-Cyclery

I'd go with Mavic A719's on Shimano XT non disc hubs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/th_LHT071.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/LHT071.jpg)

15) Tires
I think 32mm tires are wide enough. I'm running the Panaracer T Servs and they're nice but the sidewalls already have cracking :(

I'd probably go with something from Schwalbe next.

16) Bars

Try out a few and see what fits you best.

I have Salsa Bell lap's in 46cm.

17) Cables
Jagwire

18) Pedals (I'll probably just use my road speedplay x2 pedals)

Did I miss anything?


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHT/lhtpics003.jpg?t=1183453249

Did you know the LHT was available as a complete bike?

Did you know the LHT was available as a complete bike?

I am pretty sure everybody on this forum knows that.

I am pretty sure everybody on this forum knows that.

Just checking, you never know. We also forgot to mention the QBP package,
that is also an economical way to go, and flexible.

Did you know the LHT was available as a complete bike?

"available" is really the key word. i can't find any shops in my area that have any 58cm complete builds/they seem difficult to come by.

"available" is really the key word. i can't find any shops in my area that have any 58cm complete builds/they seem difficult to come by.

LBS might or might not have better info, but the latest I've seen/heard is that they should be turning up again ~6 wks from 7 June (http://www.surlybikes.com/surlyblog.html), so just another couple wks to go. If you call LBS they might be able to tell you if they're all pre-sold or not. Then you could find one to try out to nail down frame size, or just plain buy.

I wonder why no one considers building a LHT with the Sram DualDrive? I've never seen a touring bike, (other than BikeFriday) use this hub but you can get some pretty low gears (24') with this hub. Why would you not want to use this hub? Is the low gear too inefficient?

I've also been thinking about putting together a touring bike, but I had expected to be able to put together a trucker for around what a 520 costs. This does not appear to be feasible. Starting w/ the list at the head of this thread, I hit $1100 w/o even specing handlebars, a seat, or wheels! I've seen at least one person claim to have built up a surly for $1100 total, what does it cost the rest of you? (yes, edtrek, I saw your beautiful beast for $2500).

Am I missing something?


$1,101.00

$420.00 frame 60cm
$20.00 chain SRAM PC-971 9-speed Chain $19.9
$143.00 Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?) 105 triple
$20 24-26 grannie
$40 Bottom Bracket shimano 105
$20.00 Front Derailleur shimano sora fd (triple)
$30.00 Cassette SRAM PG-970
$55.00 Rear Derailleur Shimano LX M581 SGS
22 $44.00 Brakes/Brake Pads Tektro Oryx cantis
$309.00 STI Shifters shimano 105
Saddle - BROOKS 17
Seatpost
Stem
Headset
Wheels
Tires
Bars
Cables
Pedals

I've also been thinking about putting together a touring bike, but I had expected to be able to put together a trucker for around what a 520 costs. This does not appear to be feasible. Starting w/ the list at the head of this thread, I hit $1100 w/o even specing handlebars, a seat, or wheels! I've seen at least one person claim to have built up a surly for $1100 total, what does it cost the rest of you? (yes, edtrek, I saw your beautiful beast for $2500).

Am I missing something?


$1,101.00

$420.00 frame 60cm
$20.00 chain SRAM PC-971 9-speed Chain $19.9
$143.00 Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?)

<> Sugino makes a great crank for $100, if you can live with steel rings, $60 <>

$20 24-26 grannie

<> You have a cassette listed below, so what does this refer to? <>


$40 Bottom Bracket shimano 105

<> Sugino takes square taper, Shimano UN-53 is cheap and good <>

$20.00 Front Derailleur shimano sora fd (triple)

<> Let your bike shop pick this one. Getting it to work with Mtn rings can be tricky, and when they find a match that works they stick with it <>

$30.00 Cassette SRAM PG-970
$55.00 Rear Derailleur Shimano LX M581 SGS

<> http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RD703A02-Shimano+Deore+Rear+Derailleur+M510.aspx <>

22 $44.00 Brakes/Brake Pads Tektro Oryx cantis

<> Most bike shops will have some used cantis sitting in a parts bin, throw on some new pads and... <>

$309.00 STI Shifters shimano 105

<> http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=104&subcategory=1194&brand=&sku=21243&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Shifters%2FBrake%20Levers%20%2D%20Road
<>
Saddle - BROOKS 17
Seatpost
<> Kalloy Ultralite <>
Stem
<> get a cheap one, the first one might not fit right <>
Headset

<> most of the cheap one work fine <>

Wheels

<> Cheap cyclocross wheels are rugged and can be used to touring
http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WECRDIM/WE7037

http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WECRDIM/WE7036

Your bike shop can get these, this price is not hugely special <>




Tires

<> Your bike shop will have some touring size entry level tires. You might
want to splurge a bit here and get something better. <>

Bars
<>Your bike shop prob has some cheap bars lying around, if not,
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=92&subcategory=1050&brand=&sku=6214&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Road%20Handlebars
<>
Cables

<> Your bike shop will have cables if you aren't doing it yourself. if not, most places sell them <>

Pedals

<> Lots of pedals out there, I use these
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=108&subcategory=1123&brand=&sku=14392&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Road%20Clipless%20Pedals
<>

I've also been thinking about putting together a touring bike, but I had expected to be able to put together a trucker for around what a 520 costs. This does not appear to be feasible. Starting w/ the list at the head of this thread, I hit $1100 w/o even specing handlebars, a seat, or wheels! I've seen at least one person claim to have built up a surly for $1100 total, what does it cost the rest of you? (yes, edtrek, I saw your beautiful beast for $2500).

Am I missing something?

Quester,

No, you aren't missing anything. If you are willing to hunt through Fleabay, you might be able to get the used parts you need for cheap enough to get to the $1100 level you want. Or, like I've suggested elsewhere (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=4719787#poststop), you could buy a whole bike and the LHT frame and just swap parts, sell the frame and fork on Fleabay and come in at just about the level you want. Maybe a little less if you can get the bike on sale.

However, if you buy the parts retail, or even on-line, it's pretty tough to come in at the $1100 level. One of the hidden costs is shipping and tax...it can eat up a lot of your budget! Little stuff really puts a bit on the money too. I've been through this a few times myself and have never even come within spittin' distance of $1100!



$1,101.00

$420.00 frame 60cm
$20.00 chain SRAM PC-971 9-speed Chain $19.9
$143.00 Cranks (170mm, 172.5mm or 175mm?)

<> Sugino makes a great crank for $100, if you can live with steel rings, $60 <>

You can get a much better crank then the Sugino for $70 at Nashbar (see my first post in this thread). It has a better range of gears for touring and is based on readily available mountain bike chainrings...easier to replace.


$20 24-26 grannie

<> You have a cassette listed below, so what does this refer to? <>

Quester wants to change out the 30 tooth inner on the 105. A 24 will work but the LX crank is still a better choice without having to change any rings.


$40 Bottom Bracket shimano 105

<> Sugino takes square taper, Shimano UN-53 is cheap and good <>

The Octalink bottom bracket for the LX crank is $24 at Nashbar.


$20.00 Front Derailleur shimano sora fd (triple)

<> Let your bike shop pick this one. Getting it to work with Mtn rings can be tricky, and when they find a match that works they stick with it <>

There really isn't a problem with getting a road derailer to work with a mountain crank. The problem is with trying to mate a road front derailer to a mountain shifter. I've had Tiagra and Ultegra fronts with 48, 44, 46, 52 and 53 rings without problems. The Tiagra, and possibly the Sora, are better derailers with triples than the more expensive derailers for a variety of reasons. Mostly the cage is wider and more forgiving.


$30.00 Cassette SRAM PG-970
$55.00 Rear Derailleur Shimano LX M581 SGS

<> http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RD703A02-Shimano+Deore+Rear+Derailleur+M510.aspx <>

Can't argue with that price, although the Deore is a lower quality derailer. It would work but it's just not as spiffy.


22 $44.00 Brakes/Brake Pads Tektro Oryx cantis

<> Most bike shops will have some used cantis sitting in a parts bin, throw on some new pads and... <>

I'd agree with this statement 10 years ago. Today, not so much. Walk into just about any shop today and ask for cantilevers and you'll get a blank stare and then they'll drag out a set of v-brakes.


$309.00 STI Shifters shimano 105

<> http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=104&subcategory=1194&brand=&sku=21243&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Shifters%2FBrake%20Levers%20%2D%20Road

If you could find them, a pair of Tiagra or Sora shifters would be cheaper. Finding them might be an issue


Saddle - BROOKS 17
Seatpost
<> Kalloy Ultralite <>
Stem
<> get a cheap one, the first one might not fit right <>
Headset

<> most of the cheap one work fine <>

I can't argue with this.


<> Cheap cyclocross wheels are rugged and can be used to touring
http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WECRDIM/WE7037

http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WECRDIM/WE7036

Your bike shop can get these, this price is not hugely special <>


Quester would still be looking at over $150 for the wheel set.



Pedals

<> Lots of pedals out there, I use these
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=108&subcategory=1123&brand=&sku=14392&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Road%20Clipless%20Pedals
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The M520 (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=108&subcategory=1078&brand=&sku=10048&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20ATB%20Clipless%20Pedals) is a better value.

I haven't done the math but without a saddle (about $100) and post ($25) and some other bits, the price is still going to be more than $1100. The bike would be a better touring bike than the 520 but it's still going to cost more. Going the strip-a-bike route would be cheaper and easier.;)

Good post,
does the 520 still have those blecch wheels? Used to be after you
improved the gearing and swapped the wheels out, you had added a few bucks to the cost...

Quester,
Quester wants to change out the 30 tooth inner on the 105. A 24 will work but the LX crank is still a better choice without having to change any rings.


The problem w/ the LX is that the big ring is only 42. I'm sorry, but every once in a while you'll have a slight downhill, or big tailwind, and then I want a *big* ring, touring rig or no. Plus, no way to keep up w/ club rides w/o it (I'm big and strong, and tend to use a rather low cadence).

I put a 24 inner ring on my jamis quest, giving me 52-x-24, which is serious range. I lose the chain once in a while, though, need to get a chain guard.

Just seems that replacing the inner chainring is easier (and cheaper) than replacing the cassette.

The problem w/ the LX is that the big ring is only 42. I'm sorry, but every once in a while you'll have a slight downhill, or big tailwind, and then I want a *big* ring, touring rig or no. Plus, no way to keep up w/ club rides w/o it (I'm big and strong, and tend to use a rather low cadence).

I put a 24 inner ring on my jamis quest, giving me 52-x-24, which is serious range. I lose the chain once in a while, though, need to get a chain guard.

Just seems that replacing the inner chainring is easier (and cheaper) than replacing the cassette.

The LX trekking crank (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=81&subcategory=1031&brand=&sku=17945&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20ATB%20Cranks) has a 48 tooth outer. With an 11-34 cassette and 700C wheels, that should give you a 117" gear which is pretty high. I use that on my commuter/rec bike. My touring bike has a 46 outer which still gives a respectable high gear. A 42 would be annoyingly low...even on a mountain bike;)

Hi Jeff, fancy running in to you here!

Everyone else seems to have addressed your questions with a cornocopia of options, and I don't have any firm commitment to any specific products over another so I won't muddy the waters by adding my component suggestions to the fray...

BUT

I do feel compelled to share my opinion that crank arm length is not something that should be treated as an optional choice; rather, you want to find the crank arm length that puts you in the most comfortable & most efficient position relative to the saddle. Presuming you're comfortable on your Felt, I would try to match that position on the touring bike.

Which is not the same thing as saying "get the same length crank as you have on your Felt." You want a crank arm length that allows you to get the same Inseam measurement (pedal axle to top of saddle, measured in a straight line along the seat tube, with the crank arm parallel to the seat tube) as your Felt, while at the same time yielding the same ...uh, well, there's not really a name for this other measurement, it's similar to Saddle Set-Back but not identical. Let's call it "Flooby" for now: pedal axle to the absolute *center* of your saddle, measured in a straight line parallel to level ground, with the crank arm at the forwardmost position (i.e., 9:00 if you're looking from the non-drive side, 3:00 if you're looking from the drive side. Crank arm in front, parallel to the ground, basically.) And this has to be measured to the geometric center of the saddle, not to the attachment point or to the nose, etc.

So you want to pick a crank arm length for your new bike that allow you to achieve the same Inseam measurement and the same Flooby measurement as you have on your old bike.

Note that that still doesn't necessarily limit you to one particular crank arm length; but it can definitely eliminate some choices.

Good luck. And send pictures from Italy!

Hi Jeff, fancy running in to you here!

Everyone else seems to have addressed your questions with a cornocopia of options, and I don't have any firm commitment to any specific products over another so I won't muddy the waters by adding my component suggestions to the fray...

BUT

I do feel compelled to share my opinion that crank arm length is not something that should be treated as an optional choice; rather, you want to find the crank arm length that puts you in the most comfortable & most efficient position relative to the saddle. Presuming you're comfortable on your Felt, I would try to match that position on the touring bike.

Which is not the same thing as saying "get the same length crank as you have on your Felt." You want a crank arm length that allows you to get the same Inseam measurement (pedal axle to top of saddle, measured in a straight line along the seat tube, with the crank arm parallel to the seat tube) as your Felt, while at the same time yielding the same ...uh, well, there's not really a name for this other measurement, it's similar to Saddle Set-Back but not identical. Let's call it "Flooby" for now: pedal axle to the absolute *center* of your saddle, measured in a straight line parallel to level ground, with the crank arm at the forwardmost position (i.e., 9:00 if you're looking from the non-drive side, 3:00 if you're looking from the drive side. Crank arm in front, parallel to the ground, basically.) And this has to be measured to the geometric center of the saddle, not to the attachment point or to the nose, etc.

So you want to pick a crank arm length for your new bike that allow you to achieve the same Inseam measurement and the same Flooby measurement as you have on your old bike.

Note that that still doesn't necessarily limit you to one particular crank arm length; but it can definitely eliminate some choices.

Good luck. And send pictures from Italy!

Hey Bob, thanks for the info. Seems like we run into each other all over the place these days. Let's get out and ride again soon.

Jeff

My only suggestion

-Leave the steerer tube long enough to do the double stem trick

http://mgagnon.net/velo/potence-double.en.shtml

I just want to pipe in briefly and say how much I love index down tube shifters. They are inexpencive, the DA ones I have on two of my bikes now i got for under 50 on Ebay, they replaced sti's. They are very light. I like the placement more then bar end shifters on drops, and if something freak happens to break the indexing they still can run on friction. My only complant is that you can't tweak cable tension with out getting off the bike.
one more thing, I think bar ends and down tube shifters make you a better rider as well. you have to think and anticipate a little more, and muscle through. I find my self shifting a lot more when I'm using sti's or ergo's

DONT FORGET A GOOD SET OF FENDERS

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/45/163860523_750d7209ac.jpg

Guys - can I use this as my headset for the LHT build? Looks like a great deal. Says there are no spacers. Not sure if that makes a difference as the LHT complete build says the headset they use has spacers. Thanks in advance.

Jeff

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600093&subcategory=60001191&brand=&sku=17380&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Threadless%20Headsets

Yes, that can be used. I bought and use Cane Creek S2 from Nashbar for $10. If you leave the steering tube uncut, you will need spacers, so buy a few as well.

Yes, that can be used. I bought and use Cane Creek S2 from Nashbar for $10. If you leave the steering tube uncut, you will need spacers, so buy a few as well.

Thanks. What's the difference btw the S2 and S6, practically speaking?

Jeff

Thanks. What's the difference btw the S2 and S6, practically speaking?

Jeff

Not much difference. This page explains it.

http://www.canecreek.com/s-2.html

P.S. I installed the headset myself. The cups/bearings were easy to install with a press I made. The crown race, however, is weaker than most crown races I have seen and I bent mine on the first installation attempt :(

Since Nashbar was selling S2 at $10, I bought a second S2 and did a better job installing the crown race the second time. Now I have replacement parts for cups and bearings should they be needed.

Not much difference. This page explains it.

http://www.canecreek.com/s-2.html

P.S. I installed the headset myself. The cups/bearings were easy to install with a press I made. The crown race, however, is weaker than most crown races I have seen and I bent mine on the first installation attempt :(

Since Nashbar was selling S2 at $10, I bought a second S2 and did a better job installing the crown race the second time. Now I have replacement parts for cups and bearings should they be needed.

Congratulations on a DIY job. Cutting the fork tube and installing the headset was the only job that I took to the bike shop during my LHT build and I still regret not doing it myself. Not that the shop did a bad job, I just feel good about riding my own handiwork.

Congratulations on a DIY job. Cutting the fork tube and installing the headset was the only job that I took to the bike shop during my LHT build and I still regret not doing it myself. Not that the shop did a bad job, I just feel good about riding my own handiwork.

Thanks rwp -- I too wanted to give it a go myself. Installing the crown race was tough (and I even have the correct tool for race installation). I had to reduce the size of the fork crown; there was no way the race would fit. In doing that, I made the fork crown a bit too small, so to fill the gap here and there, I cut strips of aluminum from a soda can and put those between the race and the fork crown. That worked very well and all is solid and smooth for several hundred miles now.

DONT FORGET A GOOD SET OF FENDERS

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/45/163860523_750d7209ac.jpg
Hi,
Very nice bike.
Can you post more photos? Maybe a web page?
Thanks

P.S. I installed the headset myself. The cups/bearings were easy to install with a press I made. The crown race, however, is weaker than most crown races I have seen and I bent mine on the first installation attempt :(

The S6 comes with a SPLIT crown race that can be easily installed without special tools, as opposed to the crummy crown race that comes with the S2 that can't be installed even with a cr setting tool.

I bent mine too (POS). I used an old CK crown race instead - you can install these with hammer, flat punch and some patience.