General Cycling Discussion - locking strategery for a noob...

so i just bought the most beautiful bike in the world (black trek 7.3 fx) and i don't want it to get nicked. i'm going to install pitlock skewers (front, rear, and seat) and i live in a big city (DC).

should i use a u-lock or chain?

should i just lock the frame or the frame and the rear tire?

i'm looking at the kryptonite new york STD, but i'm not sure what size will work best.

The absolute best, I understand, is the Kryptonite "New YorK" chain. But who wants to lug 20+ extra pounds around? Nice if you can just leave it where your bike will be locked.

Best method is of course to remove the front wheel, put it alongside the rear, and lock both wheels and the frame to whatever STURDY thing you have for a rack.
Second best is rear-wheel and frame; with your tamper-resistant skewers this may well be fine.
We do see thefts of rear-wheel assemblies now and then, and only rarely front wheels. In fact, when we see a front wheel missing we'll usually find a locked-up front wheel on a rack nearby; the thieves will have taken a bike locked only at the front wheel, and found an appropriate wheel to fit....

Make sure what you're locking the bike to is secure. In many big cities, thieves will rig a street sign by cutting it off a foot or so from street level, then remounting the sign on a piece of larger-diameter tubing.
Looks normal. All the thief has to do is lift the sign off the stub, and the bike is his.

Whoah. Thats pretty interesting.


I lock my rear wheel/frame, and another lock goes through the frame and front wheel. Makes it a little cumbersome to unlock, but its pretty safe, at least for me. I live in Raleigh, where no one rides bikes anyway.

i'm amazed that criminals would go to so much effort to steal a bike.

my concern is with the size of the U-lock i get. i know it shouldn't be too big so that theifs can't use leverage tools, but i also don't want to get one too small. i would think a 5"x8" would be plenty big, no?

i'm amazed that criminals would go to so much effort to steal a bike.

my concern is with the size of the U-lock i get. i know it shouldn't be too big so that theifs can't use leverage tools, but i also don't want to get one too small. i would think a 5"x8" would be plenty big, no?
If you are in the States a high quality U-lock which has been rated Gold by Sold Secure or Four Star by the ART foundation should keep your bike out of criminal hands provided that you lock in to a stout, immovable pole set in concrete.

http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm

http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp

Only way not to lose a bike is to have your hand or your Butt on the thing.

If someone wants your bike- then it is going.

I use a Kryptonite D Lock and Cable in the Bike shed to lock 5 bikes together and the shed is alarmed But if they want my bikes- they will get them.

Insurance for when it happens.

#1 rule, like repeated above. If the bike is outstandingly valuable, a thief can go to a lot of lengths to grab it. That is why most people have low to midrange steeds when in town.

#2: Carry a good U-lock, the usual Sold Secure Gold.

#3: If you have the time, and you park your bike in the same areas, you might consider buying and leaving a chain lock on the bike rack. Almost nobody cares if someone leaves a lock on the rack long-term (perhaps ask first.) Then, all you need to keep with you is the U-lock, and when you hit a frequent haunt, you can use both the U lock and the chain.

U-locks:
Kryptnonite New York Fahgettaboudit (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1000&pid=1095)

Chain:
Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1002&pid=1168) 3.25 ft.
Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1002&pid=1169) 5 Ft.

Some people use one or the other, some use a u-lock and a chain to slow a thief down, some people use 2 u-locks to prevent the thief from using your bike frame to leverage a lock open. The NY U-locks won't leverage like this, your frame will bend first, but 2 u-locks will convince a thief that he's wasting his time trying to leverage the lock open (because you can't leverage a bike locked at 2 separate points.).

Also, check out these pages:

Sheldon Brown's Lock Strategy (http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html)

MechBgon's Bicycle Locking Ideas (http://www.mechbgon.com/lock/index.html)

thanks for the tips everyone. i think i'm going with a single krypto fahg. i don't ride every day so it won't be parked in the same place consistently.

i'm a little skeptical of Sheldon Brown's advice for locking the tire without locking the frame as well. i would think it would be real easy to saw or clip through a tire, no? it's not like it's any more difficult to just lock through the frame and it's much more secure that way.

thanks for the tips everyone. i think i'm going with a single krypto fahg. i don't ride every day so it won't be parked in the same place consistently.

i'm a little skeptical of Sheldon Brown's advice for locking the tire without locking the frame as well. i would think it would be real easy to saw or clip through a tire, no?
No, it's not for exactly the reasons he stated. I've tried it on a POS Huffy wheel which if anything should have cut like butter, and it went exactly like Sheldon said it would. I attacked it with a hacksaw and yeah the tire cut easy, but the bead didn't (I had to cut it with a cable snip) then the rim grabbed the blade when I got into it. I even attacked it in a new spot with a compressor driven cut off wheel (DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME) The rim clamped down on the cutoff wheel breaking it violently ( I wrecked a perfectly good face shield this way).

No, it's not for exactly the reasons he stated. I've tried it on a POS Huffy wheel which if anything should have cut like butter, and it went exactly like Sheldon said it would. I attacked it with a hacksaw and yeah the tire cut easy, but the bead didn't (I had to cut it with a cable snip) then the rim grabbed the blade when I got into it. I even attacked it in a new spot with a compressor driven cut off wheel (DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME) The rim clamped down on the cutoff wheel breaking it violently ( I wrecked a perfectly good face shield this way).

good lord. glad you were wearing the shield.

does anyone know the difference between the new york STD and the new york 3000? they appear to be the same, but i don't see the 3000 on the krypto web site. is the 3000 the old model?

good lord. glad you were wearing the shield.

Me too. I was a skeptic too, not anymore.

good lord. glad you were wearing the shield.

does anyone know the difference between the new york STD and the new york 3000? they appear to be the same, but i don't see the 3000 on the krypto web site. is the 3000 the old model?I'm not sure, but I think the STD is either the 3000, or its replacement. It's a full size u-lock, the fahgettaboudit is a "mini." A pretty hefty mini. Anyway, the Fahgettaboudit has Kryptonite's highest security rating-- a 12-- while the STD has an 11. The Fahgettaboudit is more secure, if only somewhat, probably because it's a mini.

I'm not sure, but I think the STD is either the 3000, or its replacement. It's a full size u-lock, the fahgettaboudit is a "mini." A pretty hefty mini. Anyway, the Fahgettaboudit has Kryptonite's highest security rating-- a 12-- while the STD has an 11. The Fahgettaboudit is more secure, if only somewhat, probably because it's a mini.

hmmm. i'm just not sure about the mini because it might not be big enough to lock both the frame and rear tire to a post. seems like the Fahg is best with a chain.

hmmm. i'm just not sure about the mini because it might not be big enough to lock both the frame and rear tire to a post. seems like the Fahg is best with a chain.I think it's big enough. Check it out in person-- it's not as small as you think. And it's a REALLY hefty u-lock.

I think it's big enough. Check it out in person-- it's not as small as you think. And it's a REALLY hefty u-lock.
cool. will do.

cool. will do.
I know where I live the Fahgettaboudit U-lock is too small to fit around most poles, but the NY (which is almost as strong, still small, and is very secure) will fit around a much larger variety of poles due to the fact that it is a little wider. If I were you I'd go with the NY.

Also checkout Pitlock locking skewers for your wheels and seatpost. Both my wife and I use them and are quite happy with them.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp

I think it's big enough. Check it out in person-- it's not as small as you think. And it's a REALLY hefty u-lock.
A good LBS with a desire to not see bikes stolen will let you do some experimenting with floor models.

I don't see the point of chain locks. A chain lock that is as good or better than the five pound Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit U-lock weighs eight, ten, or twelve pounds.

The best security comes from using the SMALLEST u-lock that will fit around both your rear wheel and a beefy steel pole set in concrete (such as a traditional parking meter). If the u-lock forms a tight fit around the rear wheel and the locking post, there is no room to insert effective prying and leverage tools.

Place the Fahgettboudit u-lock around the rear wheel, right behind the seat post. That makes it impossible to take either the frame or the rear wheel, and prevents using the frame as a lever to attempt to break the lock.

Use a light lock to attach the front wheel to the downtube, such as the Kryptonite Evolution mini u-lock or the OnGuard TC mini u-lock. Try to park next to $2,000 bikes that have only a cable lock. Guess which bike a crook will take?

Select a locking location that has a high amount of foot traffic. At Houston Astro games, I park against a steel fence that is between a busy box office and a busy sidewalk cafe, NOT at the "official" bike rack, which is in a more isolated location.

Only way not to lose a bike is to have your hand or your Butt on the thing.

.


And sometimes not even then. Someone in the park down the street from here was bike-jacked. Fortunately, he was able to fight them off though.

I don't see the point of chain locks. A chain lock that is as good or better than the five pound Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit U-lock weighs eight, ten, or twelve pounds.

The best security comes from using the SMALLEST u-lock that will fit around both your rear wheel and a beefy steel pole set in concrete (such as a traditional parking meter). If the u-lock forms a tight fit around the rear wheel and the locking post, there is no room to insert effective prying and leverage tools.

Place the Fahgettboudit u-lock around the rear wheel, right behind the seat post. That makes it impossible to take either the frame or the rear wheel, and prevents using the frame as a lever to attempt to break the lock.

Use a light lock to attach the front wheel to the downtube, such as the Kryptonite Evolution mini u-lock or the OnGuard TC mini u-lock. Try to park next to $2,000 bikes that have only a cable lock. Guess which bike a crook will take?

Select a locking location that has a high amount of foot traffic. At Houston Astro games, I park against a steel fence that is between a busy box office and a busy sidewalk cafe, NOT at the "official" bike rack, which is in a more isolated location.
Chains are good for places which don't have bike racks, parking meters, or other thin steel poles. There are several places I go in Riga where you can only lock up with a chain to a wide pole.

I just bought a Fahgettaboudit, but haven't used it yet. I'll lock up today to see if it's "too small" (I really don't think it is) and post tomorrow about the results.

" I wrecked a perfectly good face shield this way" You coulda been a YouTube Hero.

As to bike theft. Start with a less valuable bike. Reduce value by taking the seat post and other stuff, perhaps wrap the frame in old tubes. Use 2 locks, U+cable, to reduce chances you screw up.

BTW, for some mysterious reason the NYPD seems to be 'removing' bicycles in Williamsburg Brooklyn with grinders. So no matter what you do the fates may conspire against you. If you cannot afford to lose it, don't ride it.

Try to park next to $2,000 bikes that have only a cable lock. Guess which bike a crook will take?


Thats one of my favorite tactics. Lets see, $600 Specialized Sirrus hybrid locked with a Kryptonite U-lock and cable lock or the expensive Lemond parked right by it with a chintsy cable?

Test results:

Lock:
Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-lock.

Bikes:
Touring bike, 42" wheelbase
Mountain bike, 41.25" wheelbase
Sport touring bike, 40.25" wheelbase

The lock shackles are not wide enough to fit both the seat tube and wheel between the shackles on the touring bike and the mountain bike. On the sport touring bike, the shackles were *almost* wide enough to fit both the seat tube and wheel between the shackles, but not when locked to a pole. Almost, but not quite. In the end, I could choose to lock the seat tube to a pole, or the rear wheel to a pole, but not both.

And I think that is what the lock is designed to do-- it's designed to give as little purchase as possible to a thief seeking to leverage the lock open, which means you can only lock your seat tube, or your rear wheel, but not both. And that design is why it has a Kryptonite security rating of 12, while the Kryptonite STD, which has wider and longer shackles, has a security rating of 11.

If you want to lock both your seat tube and rear wheel to a pole with a u-lock, the STD is the way to go. If you want the most secure U-lock, the Fahgettaboudit has the edge.

I'd recommend the pitlock skewers (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp), in addition to your U-lock; you can lock your wheels, seatpost, stem, and even your brakes, all with one key.

NEVER put a u-lock around BOTH the rear wheel and the seat tube. Never.

1. Dumb crooks use the bike's frame as a lever to attempt to break the u-lock. This actually can work with a $5 u-lock and a thirty pound frame. But, with a good u-lock, it turns the seat tube into a pretzel.

2. Use the smallest u-lock that fits around the rear wheel and a locking post. A compact u-lock does not leave enough empty space to insert effective prying and leverage tools. If a compact u-lock is locked to the rear wheel, just behind the seat tube, it is IMPOSSIBLE to separate the frame from the wheel. If you lock ONLY the frame, you are making a "gift" out of your rear wheels.

Blue,
thanks for the review. i ordered the pitlocks today, but didn't get the stem lock. hopefully i can get that separately. i took a walk around town and checked out locks on bikes, and the Fehg definitely seemed too small to lock anything more than the frame. i ordered the STD/3000 from some web site for around $60 or so.

i ordered the pitlocks today, but didn't get the stem lock. hopefully i can get that separately.Yes, you can. You get a key code with your pitlocks, and when you order more pitlocks, you just give them your key code.

dammit, i didn't see alan's post until after i posted. maybe i'll see how it goes with the std/3000. seems like 95% of bikes i saw had an 8" u-lock.

my question about just locking the rear tire is that, if it's so difficult to cut through a wheel, why don't they make locks out of the same thing?!

dammit, i didn't see alan's post until after i posted. maybe i'll see how it goes with the std/3000. seems like 95% of bikes i saw had an 8" u-lock.

my question about just locking the rear tire is that, if it's so difficult to cut through a wheel, why don't they make locks out of the same thing?!

The reason that it's hard is because the rim is under tension. It jams up cutting tools, esp saw blades because the tension on the wheel will make it close up and pinch the blade, making it near impossible to move it.

Just wondering: If bike thieves are too dumb to know that they can't break a high end lock open by leveraging it with the frame, then why wouldn't they also be too dumb to know that they can't cut through a wheel?