Bicycle Mechanics - Installing Kool Stop Dura-style brakes

Just got my Kool Stops today and I'd like to have a go at installing them myself. I notice two things about these holders that look different than the stock Shimanos.

1 - The rear of the pad protrudes slightly.

2 - There is a hex nut on the holder right behind this protrusion.

Is there a special way to install these Kool Stop holders? I see that due to the special washer I won't have to bend my brake calipers in order to toe in the pads. Anything else I should know?

Thanks!

Well, it took my an hour but I did it myself. I am assuming that the wedge on the back helps with the "toe in" procedure.

Did you have to replace the cartridge, or just the pad? Do you have a model number for the breaks / pads?

I have used kool stops on my mtn bike for years, but have not found replacement pads for dura ace breaks. I cant stand the shimano pads, they are horrible!

I replaced the entire holder because the brakes that came with the bike were the one-piece Shimano variety. The Kool Stop holder is much nicer, and the pads are replaceable.

Just one clarification, please? Do the Kool Stop pads have to be toed in, or does that "Plow Tip" handle that for you?

You'll like those cool stop brake shoes. IMO they are the best and way better than those sh_tmo pads that are noisy and eat up your rims. They are particularly nice if you ride in wet weather.

Dave

I replaced my ultegra pads with kool stop dura type pads, i think the extra shaping of the pads would mean you wouldn't need to toe in at all. I certainly didn't and had no problems with them.

Simon

I installed Kool Stops, and the rear pad was so heavily toed in that I had to loosen the cable. My wheel is perfectly true, but I really had to leave a lot of space between the pad and rim to allow the wheel to spin freely. Since I was nearly pulling the brakes all the way to the handlebars, I opted to clip 1mm off of the back of the pad with nail clippers.

The pads squeek like crazy and don't do a very good job stopping the bike. Given the raves here, I feel I must have installed them improperly. Any advice? The seem to be pretty well aligned.

I installed Kool Stops, and the rear pad was so heavily toed in that I had to loosen the cable. My wheel is perfectly true, but I really had to leave a lot of space between the pad and rim to allow the wheel to spin freely. Since I was nearly pulling the brakes all the way to the handlebars, I opted to clip 1mm off of the back of the pad with nail clippers.

The pads squeek like crazy and don't do a very good job stopping the bike. Given the raves here, I feel I must have installed them improperly. Any advice? The seem to be pretty well aligned.

You need to toe them in. This thread is 4 years old.

Toe in with the back of the Kool Stop Pads 2mm from the rim when the front of the pad touch the rim.

I replaced my campy chorus pads and my 105 pads with salmon colored Kool Stops, they are so much better in three regards: they are quieter, they stop the bike faster and they don't chew up the rims as much.

I installed Kool Stops, and the rear pad was so heavily toed in that I had to loosen the cable. My wheel is perfectly true, but I really had to leave a lot of space between the pad and rim to allow the wheel to spin freely. Since I was nearly pulling the brakes all the way to the handlebars, I opted to clip 1mm off of the back of the pad with nail clippers.

The pads squeek like crazy and don't do a very good job stopping the bike. Given the raves here, I feel I must have installed them improperly. Any advice? The seem to be pretty well aligned.

You should not have clipped the pads. If I were you I would contact Kool Stop to see if the pads are salvageable.

Based on my experience with these pads, I believe the angled portion of the pads eliminates the need to toe-in the shoes.

Bob

If we're still talking about modern road pads you should be able to replace only the rubber inserts. There should be no change in brake tow-in.