All my fault ... I did not replace my chain like I should have and now I am paying for it. I haven't changed my chain, and I was worried that it might be outstretched, and overdue, so I decided to have my LBS replace it. Well, soon after, it started skipping every time I shifted to my favorite gear ... and guess what ... my rear cogs are worn down. So due to my ignorant neglect, when it's all said and done, I would have my chain, rear cog, and front chainring set replaced ... almost as much as some bikes, period! :eek:

It didn't come as a big surprise to me, but I just realized what a dumbass I am for not making the usual replacements. This was the perfect opportunity for me to decide if I want to go compact crank, or standard triple chainring. Just to be boring, I decided to stay with the triple chainring. If I decided to go compact crank, I would also have to replace my shifters.

So why am I posting this??? One, so everyone knows what a novice, and a dolt I am ... second, so that others may learn from my cycling inadequate knowledge ... and third, what is the magical distance at which a chain should be replaced? I checked one LBS, at about 2000 miles, and they said I didn't need one (they inspected it and everything). I'm not going back to that one again ... Palo Alto Bike Shop.

How often should a chain be replaced? How often does the rear cog and front chainring have to be replaced?

I don't think you have to replace shifters when going from triple to a double. My old bike had a double with triple shifters, worked just fine.

How often should a chain be replaced? How often does the rear cog and front chainring have to be replaced?

If you keep tabs on your chain and replace when it starts to stretch, a cassette and chain rings will last a very long time. but the second you neglect a stretched chain, it will wear into the teeth unevenly and you will start getting "sharkteeth" in your cassette and rings and will cause skipping.

Park makes a chain length tool or you can generally measure one link equals 1". Anymore and its stretched...

If you change/replace the chain when it stretches a maximum of 1/16", then you don't have to worry about changing the chainring or rear cog/cassette/freewheel because of wear for a long time. Some say 1/8" chain stretch max, but that's a bit too much for my taste and starts getting into new chain skipping on worn cogs territory. To measure chain wear read this (go to the bottom of the page):
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Chains are easy and inexpensive to change/replace. I have a few spares on hand and carry a spare with me when I go riding.

i just got a new chain after about 1000 miles. free under warranty!

So when I had the rear cogs replaced, I could have either gone with Ultegra or Durace, with the same gear configuration. It's a $100 difference, and I could definitely feel a weight difference. Should I have just gone with Ultegra? I ended up going with Durace, because that's what I had on the bike already. Opinions???

Even if the rear cogs have worn due to an overstretched chain, it's very rare for it to affect the front, so you may be OK in the front.

How often should a chain be replaced? How often does the rear cog and front chainring have to be replaced?It depends on what kind of riding you do. Climbing puts more strain on the chain and stretches it quicker. Usually a 9 speed chain lasts me a year[6-8 k] and the cassette about twice that long. I do a fair amount of climbing so the drive train works hard.Whichever chainring you use the most goes the soonest and smaller ones have less teeth and wear quicker as well. At every other chain replacement, figure on replacing the cassette and maybe a chainring. I have tried some of the methods of measuring a chain for stretch with little luck. Measuring 12" between several links proved inconclusive but lay an old chain alongside a new one and you can really see the difference.Chains are cheap but essential so take care of it. I think that 10 speed chains are narrower and don't last as long. I always carry a chain tool on my multi tool that has saved many people from a long walk over the years.

Here are some pictures of my front chainring, up close ... amazing how the macro setting allows you to get close up :D

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/spingineer/P7150006.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/spingineer/P7150005.jpg

Man those are dirty!!! :D j/k

Man those are dirty!!! :D j/k
I didn't say it was pretty ... :mad:

its good to clean to clean off grease and gunk off the drive train once every few rides.... keeps shifting nice and smooth and the drivetrain nice and quiet

spingineer, you were right when you said worn chainring. Your pictures describe it way better than words.

spingineer, you were right when you said worn chainring. Your pictures describe it way better than words.
Well, I don't deserve the credit. The mechanic at my LBS told me ... I am not able to tell it is worn by looking at it. At least having someone else confirm it convinces me my LBS is right.

So when I had the rear cogs replaced, I could have either gone with Ultegra or Durace, with the same gear configuration. It's a $100 difference, and I could definitely feel a weight difference. Should I have just gone with Ultegra? I ended up going with Durace, because that's what I had on the bike already. Opinions???

I only use ultegra level cassettes, the price difference just isn't worth the cash. Of course, I replace my cassette every time I change the chain and I replace it quicker than most. At my size, I just wear those components down quickly. If I could get tons of miles with my cassettes, I'd go with dura ace.

Good call sticking with the triple. You're a big distance guy and a big climber. The triple will save you a lot of pain of the long run and it won't make you any faster.

So I went ahead and replaced my triple chain ring. Now all I have to do is ride it.

Typically, any LBS will give you the old parts when you replace it. My question ... what does everyone do with them? Since it's a matter of the part being worn out, and really cannot be used, what do you do with it? Why doesn't the LBS recycle?

So I went ahead and replaced my triple chain ring. Now all I have to do is ride it.

Typically, any LBS will give you the old parts when you replace it. My question ... what does everyone do with them? Since it's a matter of the part being worn out, and really cannot be used, what do you do with it? Why doesn't the LBS recycle?


stick it on the wall so you are reminded to check the new ones more often? :p I have replaced my chains every 2-3000 miles; I am not mechanically inclined and I consider it a pre-emptive strike (kinda like changing the oil in the car). :D

stick it on the wall so you are reminded to check the new ones more often? :p I have replaced my chains every 2-3000 miles; I am not mechanically inclined and I consider it a pre-emptive strike (kinda like changing the oil in the car). :D

I had my chance to put a compact crank on there ... but I opted for the boring option ... triple!

Wow that is bad !

I had my chance to put a compact crank on there ... but I opted for the boring option ... triple!

You also missed your chance to switch to a Campy drivetrain. The parts never wear out and you are automagically transported up hills with no effort whatsoever.









Unless you are me.

How clean you keep your drivetrain has a big influence on how long things last. My first Ultegra 9 chain lasted about 1400 miles. My lowest effort miles, mind you, since it was on a new bike with a couch potato turned cyclist. My next one, the LBS noticed a few hundred miles in that I wasn't taking care of the chain and taught me all about lubing the chain. It's at perhaps 1700 miles now, and not close to replacement yet.

My Ultegra 10 chain (generally shorter life than the 9-speed stuff) on my new bike now has over 3000 miles on it. Many of them very hilly miles. A few hundred miles in rain. I have been checking it regularly since 1400 miles, but it's still well under 0.75% stretch (at which point I'll go ahead and replace it to protect the overly expensive DuraAce cassette I had spec'd).

Speaking of which, I may go with Ultegra cassettes next time... DuraAce is too expensive and wears out faster thanks to the titanium climbing gears (which I use a LOT), and it doesn't polish up as nicely since the titanium looks so dull next to polished stainless steel. I haven't decided for sure, though... as slowly as I wear things out, I might just go ahead and stick another DuraAce cassette on.

You also missed your chance to switch to a Campy drivetrain. The parts never wear out and you are automagically transported up hills with no effort whatsoever.









Unless you are me.

Say hi to the tooth fairy for me ... :p