Electric Bikes - Type of chain vrs 750 watts of power ?

This is for those who spend the time to make a lighter more efficient system than you can get from any hub motor.First of all on mid drive systems it does not make any sense to gear down a motor to drive bicycle chain to match the pedal cadence to drive through a bike chain and a clunky derailer using a 750 watt motor.With less reduction (about 8 to 1 for a 26" wheel) you would be best off using a 219 or 8mm gocart chain and composite sprockets from 72 to 92 teeth that cost as little as $8. each if you look around.Of course you will need a strong low 2000 rpm torque motor above 1 hp or 750 watts of power to eliminate power robbing multigear reductions that all mid drives on the market offer..Multigeard hubs have a great efficiency because the ratio is low and they spin fairly slow.Not so with 3000 rpm motor reducers.These sprockets and 8mm chain are the most efficient chain/sprocket arrangement you can get for up to 25 HP and 12,000 rpm.
At 750 watts they are much more efficient than bike chain or #25 chain and the 8mm chain won't stretch at all.For 4 years I have only used this arrangemet on my ebikes...You can adjust sprocket ratios rather easily compared to buying another hub motor.
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219 Sprockets are 40% lighter than anything on the market today. Made of Kevlar, these sprockets are stronger, quieter, more durable, and feature less sliding resistance (keeping the sprocket cooler, thereby increasing chain life) than either aluminum or steel sprockets. Specifically made for karts using 219 chain and 6-bolt carriers.

ok so what motor would you recomend and how much$$ and are you runing the motor direct to the hub with seperate crank chain? the larger front sprocket makes sense but what about having a front delaileur with two- three sprokets that would give you more range.

The pros of a hub motor are that you just slap it on, with an "external" ( i dono what to call it) motor you need a mount (which can support all that torque). Witch kinda sucks for people will limited tools, and materials (AND SKILLZ).

ok so what motor would you recomend and how much$$ and are you runing the motor direct to the hub with seperate crank chain? the larger front sprocket makes sense but what about having a front delaileur with two- three sprokets that would give you more range.The range comes from a efficient motor and drive train.The 3 speed internal hub is for all your pedaling needs.By the way with 750 watts of efficient power from the motor you will not need more than 3 pedal speeds.

The pros of a hub motor are that you just slap it on, with an "external" ( i dono what to call it) motor you need a mount (which can support all that torque). Witch kinda sucks for people will limited tools, and materials (AND SKILLZ).I agree, but if you can not buy a ebike or kit that will make a 20 mile round trip commute in the area that you live in because of hills and stiff headwinds. You have to DYI.No one else can or will do it for you.

Well if range is a problem, you can always upgrade the batteries (or the controller if somehow its wasting the energy). Also it seems you know a lot about this EV stuff, could you link me to ways to transfer the power from a motor axle to a normal rear wheel, other than friction drive, and using the disk mounts.

Thanks.

Well if range is a problem, you can always upgrade the batteries (or the controller if somehow its wasting the energy). Also it seems you know a lot about this EV stuff, could you link me to ways to transfer the power from a motor axle to a normal rear wheel, other than friction drive, and using the disk mounts.

Thanks. No Range is not my problem because I made a motor more energy efficient so it would not ruin a expensive pack of batteries that costs 3 times more than it did to build my ebikes.Currie had a good idea but chose cheap motors that needed 20 to 1 reduction.A single reduction motor the same size can do better at lower rpms if someone made one like this usung the freehub to attach sprockets or a freewheel sprocket to.Two chains can run this hub or a Sram DD 3 speed hub with the same type of freehub body.

Yeah i have a free hub too, and thought of running a motor to that, but the first problem is, the cranks would spin too. I don't think they make freewheel sprockets for the shimano freehubs.

What do you mean by single reduction, i know 20:1 means that when the motor spins 4000rpm the wheel does 200 (right?!)

Yeah i have a free hub too, and thought of running a motor to that, but the first problem is, the cranks would spin too. I don't think they make freewheel sprockets for the shimano freehubs.

What do you mean by single reduction, i know 20:1 means that when the motor spins 4000rpm the wheel does 200 (right?!)It's not hard to grind the freewheel threads off a frw 1000th and drill a pin slot when its pressed onto a freehub.Once someone starts making parts like these available every one will copy the system.And hub motors will be a thing of the past.
A single chain reduction without a motor gear or jack shaft type reducer.The motor would need to have the required torque to do a 8 to 1 ratio instead of a 20 to 1 ratio.A single reduction of 10 to 1 is about the largest you can get in a single stage with chain or planetary gears.

It's not hard to grind the freewheel threads off a frw 1000th and drill a pin slot when its pressed onto a freehub.Once someone starts making parts like these available every one will copy the system.And hub motors will be a thing of the past.
A single chain reduction without a motor gear or jack shaft type reducer.The motor would need to have the required torque to do a 8 to 1 ratio instead of a 20 to 1 ratio.A single reduction of 10 to 1 is about the largest you can get in a single stage with chain or planetary gears.

It's been what, 4+ years? And nobody has picked up your drive system for mass production. What does that tell you about the demand? If there was enough demand, YOU would probably be making these parts and selling them for a tidy profit.

Who knows? One day Crystalyte might be filling containers with little boxes of 5lb can motors, sprockets, chains, universal motor mount kits and Dual Drive hubs.

It's been what, 4+ years? And nobody has picked up your drive system for mass production. What does that tell you about the demand? If there was enough demand, YOU would probably be making these parts and selling them for a tidy profit.

Who knows? One day Crystalyte might be filling containers with little boxes of 5lb can motors, sprockets, chains, universal motor mount kits and Dual Drive hubs. It shows me that there is not much of a ebike market at all for good ebikes.Yes who knows about the future of anything lol.

However there seems to be a market for ebikes that get the job done. Now that the big box stores are all stocked up, I'm seeing ebikes everywhere in Vancouver. Pedal e-scooters, CT/Walmart bikes, homebuilts, bents, and I even saw an E-KMX trike with a Crystalyte hub motor the other day. Surprised the heck out of me just to see it parked on the sidewalk.

I was working on site today at a shop that imports JDM cars, and they had some small wheeled, can motor, mid drive powered bikes for running errands on. Nothing I recognized.

However there seems to be a market for ebikes that get the job done. Now that the big box stores are all stocked up, I'm seeing ebikes everywhere in Vancouver. Pedal e-scooters, CT/Walmart bikes, homebuilts, bents, and I even saw an E-KMX trike with a Crystalyte hub motor the other day. Surprised the heck out of me just to see it parked on the sidewalk.

I was working on site today at a shop that imports JDM cars, and they had some small wheeled, can motor, mid drive powered bikes for running errands on. Nothing I recognized.I would save more $ buying a $600. 4 cycle moped and would get better miles per $ in a one or two year period commuting 20 miles a day without having to pedal if I didn't build my own ebike.Now tell us how many controllers you burned out and when you started ebiking with your system you have?