Mountain Biking - Looking for a Cross Country Bike and Advice

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Hey,
Just wondering if there's anyone here who rides alot of cross-country. Aprox, 80-100 miles, 10-12 hours saddle time per trip on rough terrain, 3 and usually more times a week. (very little street riding)
I'm looking to discuss the pro's and con's of the componentry and frame materials and such. Any advice on clothing, kidney belts, and accesories as well.
I hope you're out there....cuz i feel so alone in my group of friends who think i'm one step away from the looney bin for spending so much time in the saddle and complaining about my hands not working cuz of the constant pounding and vibration.
I'm here, shoot me with questions man!!! I may not know the answer, but I'll pretend I do!!
Joe Pozer
09-05-01, 07:12 PM
Well, I definitely don't spend that much time on my bike per trip but my suggestion would be a full-suspension bike.
Before I get flamed here is my reasoning...
You spend a lot of time on your bike, a full-suspension bike will ease the pounding you are taking. Yes, you can get a suspension seatpost for a hardtail but it still doesn't absorb the impact your legs take. F.S. bikes have gotten much better over the past couple of years and you can now get a pretty light bike for a reasonable cost.
thbirks
09-05-01, 08:42 PM
I'd have to agree with Joe Poser on this one, a full-suspension bike seems like the way to go. Yeah, FS will tend to be higher maintainance than a hardtail but with the hours your putting in on the bike on rough terrain I think it's the way to go.
I wish I could put in that many miles off-road. That's impressive.
MtnBikerChk
09-06-01, 05:57 AM
Great prices this time of year too (well, here in New England anyway)!
a2psyklnut
09-06-01, 10:30 AM
Jamale, didn't you just get your bike? Wow dude, you're putting in huge miles, I envious. I'm stuck in FL with the closest trail about 40-45 minutes away. Read...more road miles than off-road, but I deal with it. I only get to ride trails on weekends and lately that hasn't been to often (or not often enough).
I can't help you with your problems, except to say try loosening up your grip on the handlebars. I use to ride with the "death grip" style, as soon as I relaxed my grip on the bars, my handling improved and my arms weren't spent at the end of the day.
Hope that helps,
L8R G8R
yes!!! i love this place!
I did get a new bike vfboom-, but i haven't posted that yet.....it's my second one and it will be ready tomorrow! I'm trying to be excited about it, but the cost of the new components and the choices i made weren't too bright, and i'm kicking myself for it! that's why i'm asking for advice this time, cuz even tho i think i know...when it comes to being in the bike store making decisions....my brain freezes and all i see is the cool gadgets and shiney objects and i become mesmerized. (i do the same thing in the grocery store...it's gotta be a mental defect of some kind :)
hmm...FS huh? I've been concerned about the weight and the need for extra maintainence and specialized tools. I hate breaking down when i'm so far out there...and luggin' around a work bench really sucks!
Any brands and models i should be leaning towards?
My Full-Suspension knowledge is limited to eww's and ahh's in the LBS. So any information is cool.
J-
Dirtgrinder
09-06-01, 02:37 PM
I have two fs bikes, ride almost daily, and have done absolutely nothing to the rear suspension as far as maintenance. What maintenance? They pivot in sealed bearings. I've never had any kind of problem with either of mine. Everyone seems to use that as an excuse for not buying one and I don't get it. The owners manual doesn't even mention any maintenance. As much as you ride I'd definately look into one. They have the weight down to comparable to ht's too. Good Luck in your search. DG
thanks Dirtgrinder....what 2 FS's do you ride... and do you know how much they weigh? to me bike weight is only half of the equation when it comes to overall weight esp when i'm loaded down with other equipment.
also, i'm not complaining about the pounding so much. I've gotten used to it!
It's the reliability issue that's most important to me. Not to imply that the FS's are less than. I just don't know that much to say....but when i look at them, and the pivot points and all...i can't help but wonder.
I'm not sure of the different mounting styles and what they're supposed to do either.
for instance...i've noted that many of the rear-shock set-ups for some FS bikes are horizontal under the top-tube. Other bikes seem to have the shocks vertically behind the down-tube...and then there's every other variation.
what does it all mean?
a website maybe? anyone?
thanks again!!
Dirtgrinder
09-06-01, 03:34 PM
My first was a Mongoose D70R which wasn't much but got me started anyway. A few months ago I bought a Giant XTC NRS2.
Look at the thread "found an NRS2" in this forum to see pics.
A lot of the fs bikes, especially the "Y-bikes" had a problem with bobbing on climbs so you'd lose some power on the climbs. Some of the newer ones have eliminated or partially eliminated that problem. That's one of the reasons I bought the NRS. It stands for "non-resonance system" which eliminates the bob. Hope this helps. DG
Nice looking ride Dirtgrinder!!
We have the same front fork and riser!
I've never riden the judy XC before and was a little put off by the 4 plus lbs weight...but i read alot of good reviews and bought it from ebay for 150 bucks...in the box, wrapped in plastic.
How's yours performing these days?
Joe Pozer
09-06-01, 04:07 PM
I do understand your concern as far as maintenance but I believe that most of the newer FS bikes are pretty much maintenance free. You can even get a single pivot bike like the Superlight or the Jeckyll and those are worry free. Like DG said, most bikes come with Sealed bearing pivots which require no maintenance.
Also, weight for most newer full-susp bikes is not much of an issue anymore. My rig with disc brakes comes in at 24.5 lbs.
The only place where does kind of lag HTs is in price.
If I was riding the kind of mileage you are I would definitely look into a FS bike or a soft-tail. I think it will allow you ride even more insane distances than you already do.
right on Mr. Pozer!
I checked out the two bikes and they do look great! I'm still in shock (no pun intended) at the 24.5 lb weight of your FS bike...that's amazing to my old school type of thinking.
Both are on the (very) high end of my price range. The santa-cruz intrigued me more tho-....why is the shock mounted to the top tube and not behind or infront of the downtube? and how does it get 4.5 inches of travel. That's more like two or three questions....but as long as i've got you here.....
Can you edjukate me?
thanks
Dirtgrinder
09-06-01, 11:42 PM
Originally posted by jamale
How's yours performing these days?
So far so good!:) No problems whatsoever so far. Except that I ripped a tire on a really wicked rock one day. But I guess I can't blame the bike for that one.:p
a2psyklnut
09-07-01, 09:49 AM
Jamale,
In an effort to edjukate you, there are three basic schools of suspension thought at the moment.
#1 is the URT or unified rear triangle. This can also include the elevated chainstay making a recent comback. This is where the entire back of the bike moves as a single unit. A Cannondale Jekyll is an example of this. Also a Foes, check out JensonUSA's website for a pic. A Santa Cruz full susp is an example of the elevated stay. These work very well, but do introduce pedal induced feedback when grinding in the granny gear. Hardly noticable and not an issue if you have a lockout on your rear shock. With this design, the shock is usually located in the middle of the bike toward the top and front of the URT.
#2 is the Horst linkage. This is the design on the Specialized, AMP (the original), a Turner, and a modification of this with the Giant. This design has pivot points at four or more locations. The bottom bracket, the rear drop-outs, the shock(either directly to the shock or to a link), and the seat-tube. This is considered an "active" suspension design and produces very little bobbing and is probably the most efficient type suspension. This is my preferred type of suspension.
#3 is the new genre of suspension design. This is the type found of the new Gary Fisher Sugar, the new Cannondale Scaple, and most "soft-tails". With this design, the chain stays "flex" but have no pivots. The shock is mounted near the top of the seat tube/top tube intersection and only provide a max of 2" of travel.
The chainstays are either made of titanium, steel or carbon fiber. These are becoming very popular with the lightweight XC crowds.
As far as shock locations, these vary with what each manufacturer feels is the best. Is there one better than another? I don't know. I suggest riding as many different types of designs before you buy one. Ride your buddies' bikes and as many new "test" rides you can take. It's all a matter of personal choice.
At the moment Giant seems to be producing the most "affordable" bikes. But with the 2001 closeouts going on, now is a good time to buy a left-over. Specialized FSR-XC are very good bikes for the money as well.
Good luck and happy hunting.
L8R G8R
Joe Pozer
09-07-01, 12:55 PM
Originally posted by vfboomer
Jamale,
In an effort to edjukate you, there are three basic schools of suspension thought at the moment.
#1 is the URT or unified rear triangle. This can also include the elevated chainstay making a recent comback. This is where the entire back of the bike moves as a single unit. A Cannondale Jekyll is an example of this. Also a Foes, check out JensonUSA's website for a pic. A Santa Cruz full susp is an example of the elevated stay. These work very well, but do introduce pedal induced feedback when grinding in the granny gear. Hardly noticable and not an issue if you have a lockout on your rear shock. With this design, the shock is usually located in the middle of the bike toward the top and front of the URT.
Good luck and happy hunting.
L8R G8R
Boomer has made some very good points. The only thing that I do have to disagree on is the URT point. A Unified Rear Triangle is called that because the swing arm contains the bottom bracket. Example of these are the TREK and G.F. Y-bikes and the Klien Mantras. URTs have fallen out of favor and most manufacturers have moved away from this design.
Santa Cruz and the C-dale Jekyll are NOT URT designs. They are single pivot bikes but the bottom bracket is located in main frame not the swing arm.
Hope this helps or at least it doesn't confuse things even more...
X-Caliber
09-09-01, 02:16 AM
From a different perspective, I would suggest a hard tail with mini-shock in the seat post as found on my Fisher X-caliber(now called a MT.Tam) for those long rides. A FS adds weight and he will lose lots of power unless he tightens the rear shock. Although the new FS bikes may have corrected the bounce/loss of energy thing.
Also I believe it's Cannondale's F-600 that has a flip switch near the handlebars for convenient lock-in/lock-out of the shocks. This will help in the long straight aways (you are doing some good distance) when you need speed and no shock, and when you need them, switch it on for those technical spots. Bring a spare tire in a Topeak saddle bag equipped with tire iron and Allen keys, and a Nightrider-trail rat 10W light with 3hr. battery(recharge at home) when you are caught in the dark.
Good-Luck.
X
hey vfboom...er..a2phyklnut....cool new name!
Thanks for the ejoomakation!
i'm currently trying out as many FS bikes as i can without neglecting my new hardtail. A couple i've tried are the Klein Mantra, and the specialized FSR, but i'm having trouble taking these babies out to trails which is where i really need to test out these machines. I know it will be awhile before i take that plunge, so i'm not too desperate yet.
When i have some extra time, i'll start a new thread describing my conclusions of my new ride.
Some of you might find it boring... But, for me, it was an opportunity to find out first hand what i think about my own equipment choices and the technology/material that goes into them.
J
a2psyklnut
09-12-01, 02:43 PM
Hey Jamale, (ooh that rhymes)
Can't wait to hear your results on the test rides. I personally like the FSR, I had a '98 FSR Extreme that I had customized with a lot of Race Face components and XT. I sold her and I miss her:cry:
I've ridden a lot of the new Cannondale's lately. My wife, brother-in-law and father-in-law all have Ravens (must run in their family). I've ridden the Jeykll and the new Scapel. I like the Jeykll, didn't care for the Scapel. My next bike will probably be a Haro Extreme EX3 (custom components of course), it's a copy of a Santa Cruz Bullit. I'm also considering their frame only, it's an Intense Tracer with Haro decals, but the cost of the frame alone is more than the complete EX3. I've looked at Rocky Mountain's new bikes and wouldn't mind one of those, or one of Giant's new offerings. Good luck and keep us posted.
L8R G8R
If it's cross country you like, then I'd still go for the Hard Tail over the FS rig...
Hehehehe, I think this was a hotly contested thread a while back. I've recently moved from a rigid bike to a Hard Tail with a USE shokpost to soften out the back.
I'm still waiting to build up my Kona (oh for the love of God!) but have never really been turned to the FS side of mountain biking..too much maintainance and weight for my liking, well, until you get to silly prices anyway.
Bikes always worth looking at whether you go for the FS or Hardtail, are Treks, Gary Fishers, Specializeds, Konas etc.
Personally, I like the Trek 9.8 OCLV bike, yummy carbon fiber, and XT components.
Best wishes
Rich
Buddy Hayden
09-15-01, 04:51 AM
Dude, personally ride as many bikes as you can, be it your friends or from a store, and draw your own conclusions!, just always keep in mind the "type" of riding you are doing or plan to do,and what you can afford. Other peoples opinions of their favorite bike, WILL make it hard to draw your own coclusions, and the same thing goes for the salesman,who want's to "sell" you the bike what not might be the correct choice, for the type of riding you had intended !. One word of advice,spend as much as YOU honestly afford,you probably already know this,!!,Full suspension rigs these day's are not "that" heavy,If want to get yourself a mid-range bike, .. totally forget the sub $800 bracket,their made of cheese and steel !!, just do as much "hands on" test riding as you can .........
GT@RIDER
09-15-01, 05:38 PM
I like my GT I-Drive 1.0
it has to be the sweetest full suspension bike i have ridden on.
even though i dont spend that much time on my bike this bike KICKS BUTT and LOOKS COOL too!!!!!!!
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