Bicycle Mechanics - Do you guys actually torque each nut and bolt to the specified torque value?

I just purchased the Avid Mechanicals along with a disc wheelset. The directions for the Avid disc brakes say to use a torque wrench to ensure properly torque value and that the supplied TORX wrench is for emergencies only.

Does it really matter that much to torque the bolts all to the same torque value?

I'm asking because I don't have a torque wrench.

Thx!

Yes.

No. No point. As long as you have some experience with wrenching in some way (mine is with tool and die) it is generally easy to tell if you are torqued or not.

Also the whole point to torque wrenches is not to overtorque or the wrench itself strips...Tighten until it is tight with a torque key and you should be good.

I use the tight's tight.... stripped is f****d method :D

Most shade tree mechanics I know of use the proven method of "Tighten it until it strips then back off a quarter turn." ;)

torque them all. ya pay a lot for a fancy, dancy frame, assemble it the way it was designed to be assembled. All aomponents work better when they're not too loose, too tight or all bent out of shape during installation.

All by feel for me, don't own a torque wrench.

What's correct torque anyway: just got a new wheel for my road bike with Campag hub. Origincal Campag lockring says 50Nm torque, new Hugi says 30Nm. I reckon most settings are geared towards the "fully tight with standard tool" approach, rather than anything more scientific. It also gives another "out" when it comes to warranty. Just my (poor) opinion.

My motto: Don't force it , use a bigger hammer !! :D :crash: :D

I’m a bit new here and don’t want to go shooting my mouth off in front of the grown-ups but I do know a little about the subject. I don’t think torque wrenches (or even torque screwdrivers) are particularly useful for the small settings on a bike (MHO). Variation in thread condition and lubrication can make a significant difference and torque wrenches (and torque screwdrivers) are fairly inaccurate as a gauge of the pre-load applied to a bolt at the best of times. Most of the torque settings are fairly arbitrary anyway and just there to stop you crushing things.

The only thing I’d add to the debate is that it’s much easier to feel what’s going on with the right tools. Small hand tools are the things. It’s hard to feel what’s happening when swinging from the other end of a foot long spanner. If it’s an important bolt then go for loctite or even lock wire (like on some brake bolts).

good torque wrenches are not cheap, I use snap-on dial type torque meters, I have a 5 - 30 inch pound, a 25 - 600 inch pound, a 5 - 75 ft. lb and a 20 - 150 ft, lb. The accuraccy is great and I have them calibrated every 6 months because they get used daily on quality bikes and components, I don't torque all X-mart type bike small parts, I do however set the headsets with a torque wrench and torque the Bottom brackets on them.
The quality of the tune is directly related to the quality of the tech and the quality and condition of his/her tools

The torque on fasteners is very important. You can read many of the posts here and at other forms and see that many if not most posts are related to fastener problems.

All fasteners need tension, which you get from torque. Do you need to measure the torque? Many people don't, but it is important you understand how fasteners work and what is happening when you turn a wrench. Generally, fasteners should be tight. Too loose a fasteners will allow parts to move around, such as when a crank creaks on a spindle. But what is too tight? Simply failure in the fastener, either a stripped thread or a broken component. As a rule of thumb, at least in the bicycle world, most people tend to under tighten larger threads (bottom brackets, crank bolts, etc.) and over tighten small threads (derailleur wire pinch bolts, stem bolts, etc.) Also keep in mind that torque wrenches should not replace thinking.

See also Basic Thread Concepts (http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/thread.shtml)

I torque specific things, but others I go by feel.

Crank bolts get the torque as to stem face plate bolts. Most pedals that have an allen head accessible at the back of the cranks get torqued. As well as all the components of a disc brake caliper (bolts to frame mounts, rotor bolts to hub.)

Everything else is pretty much by feel.

L8R

Originally posted by Calvin Jones
The torque on fasteners is very important. You can read many of the posts here and at other forms and see that many if not most posts are related to fastener problems.

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Thank you!, Calvin.

Can someone post a pic of their torque wrench? Thx.

The ONLY time I use a torque wrench is when torquing down head bolts. Bicycles don't have head bolts.

I think I will be getting a torque wrench for primary 2 reasons. One is for the bike and the other is for my car.

I want something that will have a good range from small bolts/spark plugs to larger items such as Wheel nuts on the car.

Does anyone know what range I should be looking for?

Also, do you think a 1/2" drive is necessary? or would you go with a 3/8" drive?

Thanks

I have a 1/2" drive tourque wrench...but that's all my dad had from his car serviceing tool kit. I would get a 3/8 if I didn't already have the 1/2.

A little OT...

I have a Sun CPU torque wrench. The CPUs on Sun Enterprise servers do not have actual pins. They do have sprung contacts. The CPU assembly itself must be torqued down to 6 in-lbs (5 in-lbs on some) uniformally in order to preserve adequate contact. All Sun CPUs and CPU upgrades come supplied with a rather high-quality metal torque wrench.

Originally posted by Cadd
I think I will be getting a torque wrench for primary 2 reasons. One is for the bike and the other is for my car.

I want something that will have a good range from small bolts/spark plugs to larger items such as Wheel nuts on the car.

Does anyone know what range I should be looking for?

Also, do you think a 1/2" drive is necessary? or would you go with a 3/8" drive?

Thanks

Autozone has a relatively inexpensive 3/8" drive torque wrench that will work fine for bikes. The range on it is fine. They also have a relatively inexpensive set of allen adaptors for it and mm hex adaptors for it. Autozone's is the least expensive I've seen.

I don't think you'll need a 1/2" drive torque wrench, but a 1/2" drive adaptor to 3/8" drive always comes in handy.

I have a 1/2" drive dial type torque wrench that I bought at harbor Freight/Tools for ~20. It's massive.

What is the torque spec for water bottle cage bolts? Does anyone know?

No. Really.

:lol:

Originally posted by RegularGuy
What is the torque spec for water bottle cage bolts? Does anyone know?

Just like your oil filter, finger tight plus an extra half turn.

Originally posted by George
Just like your oil filter, finger tight plus an extra half turn.

Is there an oil filter on my bike?

I am just kidding.

I do use a torque wrench for crankarm bolts and bottom brackets. Most everything else I do by feel.