Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Clyde Saddle Question

I put a wide seat on my Trek 4500 when I bought it and still have the slim one and have been wanting to try it. Somehow I have it in my brain that for a large person I need a large seat but I think its hurting my cheeks when I pedal. I see alot of you have the Brooks b-17 which looks really really slim. I thought such a seat would "get lost" when I sat on it hehe. I could just go throw it on and give it a try but when ever I touch that bike I jump on and start riding.

so my question is wide rear end = wide saddle?

I put a wide seat on my Trek 4500 when I bought it and still have the slim one and have been wanting to try it. Somehow I have it in my brain that for a large person I need a large seat but I think its hurting my cheeks when I pedal. I see alot of you have the Brooks b-17 which looks really really slim. I thought such a seat would "get lost" when I sat on it hehe. I could just go throw it on and give it a try but when ever I touch that bike I jump on and start riding.

so my question is wide rear end = wide saddle?

Your saddle should be wide enough to support the "sit bones", or Ischium bones of the Pelvis,but not so wide as to cut off circulation.

A lot depends on the stance on the bike as well. More upright = a somewhat wider saddle and a forward stance needs a narrower saddle. Use Specialized "Butt-o-meter", and no, I'm not kidding about the name of this tool and get your ischium measured for width and select your saddle based off of this.

A narrower saddle is also where padded shorts get handy!

Tom is correct, get measured and buy your size. Ya don't have to be fat to need a wide saddle.
Specialized has saddles in three widths, in the Alias and Avatar models, and what a difference the correct one can make. I use those and Brooks B-17s for standard riding position, and the B-66s (sprung and unsprung) for upright position on the grocery getter and the cruiser.

Cheers,
Kevin

The Brooks B17 works wonderfully on my Cross-check. I have not found a way to mount a brooks on my nroadbike as the geometry is very different

The Brooks B17 works wonderfully on my Cross-check. I have not found a way to mount a brooks on my nroadbike as the geometry is very different

Could you explain that a little more. I'm new and don't understand why you can't put a brooks on a road bike. Thanks.

I have a cf Fuji Pro that has a different geometry. The mounting rails underneath the Brooks are much shorter than on most newer saddle deisgns. I am unable to set the Brooks back far enough to make it comfortable on this Fuji. I purchased a seat post with the highest offset that I could find and still have not found a way to accomodate the Brooks on this bike.

I have a cf Fuji Pro that has a different geometry. The mounting rails underneath the Brooks are much shorter than on most newer saddle deisgns. I am unable to set the Brooks back far enough to make it comfortable on this Fuji. I purchased a seat post with the highest offset that I could find and still have not found a way to accomodate the Brooks on this bike.

Oh, thanks for the information. My Brooks should be here in two days, I hope I don't run into the same problems.

I've been running a B17 on my Wanta, and I like it well enough:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc152-forbesbb0906.html

It seems like a good comprimise between a narrow performance saddle and a fat saddle for upright riding. I still think my Brooks Pro was the best saddle I ever owned, but I don't ride enough to break a Pro in properly these days. For some reason, the Pros seem to take FOREVER to break in, butt the B17 got comfy after a couple hundred miles.

Then again, if you want the ultimate in stretched-leather comfort, you can always get one of these:

http://cyclesvalhalla.com/hairpinsaddlefrontview.html

;)

- FBB

This Sunday I rode into the City and visited the shop. The Young Manager was there and he grabbed my bike and took it for a little spin. He was very impressed with the comfort and the position on the bike. He really liked the Brooks B-17 that I have on it and stated that he never thought something like that would have any comfort. Being that he is half my age, I took that as a huge compliment. As riden, the Clyde Bike weighed in at 29.6 lbs.

Chris

Oh, thanks for the information. My Brooks should be here in two days, I hope I don't run into the same problems.

I see what you mean now. I mounted my brooks:D on my bike today. The adjustment area is farther back on the brooks than the road saddle that came on the bike. This should be okay for me, but I can see where it may be a problem for someone that needs their saddle slid way back on the seat post.

Partial Hi-jack alert!

I also got my Brooks B-17 today and have a Proofide question. I've applied a coat to the underside, however there are 2 sets of instructions, one recommending I don't apply Proofide to "finished leather surfaces" and the other recommending I should treat them. I'm presuming this means the part I actually sit on? If so, I'm presuming I should treat that prior to riding and regularly as maintenance? If so, how many times should I Proofide/buff it before riding it for the first time? Please help a noob get comfy on his new toy.... Thanks!


John

Partial Hi-jack alert!

I also got my Brooks B-17 today and have a Proofide question. I've applied a coat to the underside, however there are 2 sets of instructions, one recommending I don't apply Proofide to "finished leather surfaces" and the other recommending I should treat them. I'm presuming this means the part I actually sit on? If so, I'm presuming I should treat that prior to riding and regularly as maintenance? If so, how many times should I Proofide/buff it before riding it for the first time? Please help a noob get comfy on his new toy.... Thanks!


John

OK, Proofide isn't a break in compound, it makes the leather better able to handle water. Use it sparingly on the top and a bit heavier on the bottom and once a year or a bit more or less is all you'll need to proofide it.:D

I agree....I have a very small looking saddle, I guess in fact it is small....Specialized Toupe...it just fits I am not sure why and at this point I don't care lol it FITS!!!

Padded shorts are a close second to a good saddle....they complete a good saddle in my opinion..

I do have friends that have had and are still haiving trouble with with saddles so it is not limited to Clydes....you just have to keep trying and I know that sucks but when you find one it will be yours...

I agree....I have a very small looking saddle, I guess in fact it is small....Specialized Toupe...it just fits I am not sure why and at this point I don't care lol it FITS!!!

Padded shorts are a close second to a good saddle....they complete a good saddle in my opinion..

I do have friends that have had and are still haiving trouble with with saddles so it is not limited to Clydes....you just have to keep trying and I know that sucks but when you find one it will be yours...

Just replaced my decade old flite with a toupe. It looks like an ass hatchet but it's great so far!

I see what you mean now. I mounted my brooks:D on my bike today. The adjustment area is farther back on the brooks than the road saddle that came on the bike. This should be okay for me, but I can see where it may be a problem for someone that needs their saddle slid way back on the seat post.

I received this email from Brooks Saddles this morning

"Brooks have tried to lengthen the rails on all models, but found that this was actually only possible on two models; The Swallow and the Swift.
These two models are now using longer rails and so might be worth taking a look at. Also, worth noting is that both models are now available with a steel frame, instead of the original titanium frame."

I have asked for further clarification. The new rails are 6mm (1/4 inch) longer.
I don't think the 1/4 inch will help me much

Note that the new steel-railed Swallows are to be fitted with B.17 Narrow frames (as were the original models, first introduced in 1936), and that these frames won't have the increased 'setback' available with the titanium ones. However, the new steel-railed Swifts will have frames made to exactly the same shape as the most recent titanium versions, and so will have the increased 'setback' available with those models - about 5mm. less than the titanium Swallows, and about 15mm. greater than the B.17 Narrows.