Road Cycling - Used Road Bike, seeking advice

Hello all, I've been thinking about getting a used road bike recentlly and was looking for some advice on what I should look for and mainly what are some things to avoid when looking at used bikes? I'm not looking to spend a whole lot I just want a road bike to try out to see if I like it compared to my mtn bike.

One question i have already is when it comes to size would a road bike size be comparable to a xc mtn bike size. My mtn bike is a 540mm frame (21.5") This is what my LBS recomended for what I use my mtn bike for, (XC and commuting). Even though I'm only about 5'11" I find this size works for my leg length.

I saw one ad in the paper for a Peguot PB10 (I think) for 90 bucks canadian. It didn't list the frame size but assuming it's a good size for me, would that be a good deal?

Inseam height is more important than actual height. I'm an inch and a half or so taller than you but have about a 30 inseam so your mtn bike size is my road size.

I think the rule of thumb is that a road bike is about 2 inches taller than a mtn but you need to try the bike.

All kinds of used roadies out there and many go cheap. Many people riding around on quality bikes they picked up for $20(US) or less. I'm not familiar with that model Peugeot as they weren't as big in South Fla as some other makes. If the bike was of decent or better quality, is clean, maintained and FITS then that price probably ain't bad. I'd always offer a little less at first though.

In that price range you're looking at bikes from the later 70s and the 80s mostly. A good one should feel light compared to your mtn bike unless you have a real expensive mtn bike.

Avoid stem shifters. Make sure the wheels are quick release and alloy rims. Stainless steel spokes is a good sign. Avoid any bikes with those cheap crimped drop outs. Downtube shifters was the standard. Bar end (barcons) were fitted on a number of good bikes as well. Lugged frames was standard then but you can tell nice lugwork from poor pretty easily so check out the frame. Decals with labels like Columbus, Reynolds or Vitus are good. Decals with 4 digit numbers that start with a 1 or 2 or say "High-Tensile" mean a plain heavy guage frameset.

If you take a quick trip to www.oldroads.com and go to their Vintage Lightweight board and ask about your prospective model there are some Peugeot experts who can probably give info.

My inseam is around 33" I belive, (I wear 32"-34" pants depending on the make). The first thing the sales guy said to me when I asked about a bike was that I needed a larger frame because of my leg length.

How do I tell if it has stem shifters or downtube shifters? Also I see alot of old bikes going around that have what seems to be 2 sets of brake levers one in the drops and one on the flat part of the bar. I don't see this on any of the new road bikes what are these second levers?


My mtn bike is only like 450 CDN and weighs about 32lbs so I guess the road bike should feel lighter.

Oh also i'm willing to spend more than $90 but would like to keep it under $150. I figure I will need some money also for a tune up and perhaps new tires or anything that is worn out.

I would try and and a copy of Greg LeMond's Complete book of Bicycling, it has a good section on frame sizing. Just remember that he is putting you the smallest frame for your size. Using his setup I should be on a 54cm but the top tube is to short. If you can't find it, let me know I have it, and with you measurements I can get you close. If I had to make a guess I would say a 56 cm frame should fit. I am 6' with an 86cm inseam and that is the frame size I ride.
Stem shifters will be attached to the stem, down tube shifters will be on the down the tube. As for the brakes with the top lever they where Oh S@#T handles. I think they outlawed them here in the US in the late 80’s. I would stay away from bikes with them, they where usually department store bikes.
Most of the bike in the price range you posted will be 25+ pounds.

You really should size a bike by its length, not its height. As long as you have adaquate standover clearance, you can raise the saddle as far as you like with a long seatpost. If you have long legs/short torse and buy a big bike to fit your legs, it may be too long for your upper body.
Road bikes are made to fit male riders of "normal" dimensions when there is about 1" of standover clearance (or about 3" if it is the modern compact/sloping top tube design).

What should I look for when it comes to the wheel's. Don't older bikes use different size wheels than new road bikes? Will I be able to get new tires for older wheels and how can I tell the difference by each wheel size like how should I measure to tell the difference?

Older road bikes usually use 27" tires. Just look on the tire! Newer road bikes use the 700c standard. You can still find the 27" tubes and tires for sale, but they are getting harder to find. I recently bought a Schwinn LeTour (aka Panasonic) roadbike from the mid-80's at a thriftstore for $20. It had 27"x 1 1/4" rims, but the rear one was way out of round and quite rusty. So I did some quick math, measured the reach of the brakes, (the difference between 27" and 700c is about 4mm!), and decided to buy an inexpensive 700c wheelset. Works pretty well, if I do say so myself! But if you have a fully functioning bicycle, just root around in the clearance section of your LBS for tubes and tires. I found a massive stack of 27" tubes for $1 apiece at Performance here in San Diego. Buy about $10 worth and you're set.