astronomerroyal,
Your trailer looks to handle well, looks exceptionally stable and seems extremely well made and seems hard to fault. It also looks the equal of any professionally manufactured unit.

But where did you get your wheels from?

I too value stability.

You Devil. Those compliments have me all undone. I am ashamed to say that I bought my wheels on Amazon.com, more specifically from an Amazon marketplace seller. I believe the name was Niagara Bicycles. The first time I got some sort of special deal, the second set of wheels however cost me a fair bit (when I made the rear end of Velocipede I felt that I had to be consistent with my hardware.) They don't seem to combine the shipping costs. I also looked on ebay, but came up short.

The building of both trailers really was a labour of love. Already I'm reminiscing. The metal shavings in the carpet. The furtive drilling of holes at 11pm. Wonderful memories.

astronomerroyal,
Thanks for the info about the wheels.

Have you posted the dimensions of you trailer anywhere, i.e.:
The track width
The load platform width.

If so, could you post a link?

It's just that your trailer is so stable, the load platform can be deduced from the wheel diameter, but the oblique views make it difficult to estimate the widths of the track and load platform.

It would be useful from the point of reference.

astronomerroyal,

Have you posted the dimensions of you trailer anywhere, i.e.:
The track width
The load platform width.
[B]

Sorry, meant to reply sooner. Here are some dimensions of the two trailers.

Front trailer:
bed width 12"
bed length 36"
track width (between centres of tyres) 16"
Max width of trailer 21"
weight 16lbs (incl. hitch)

The rear trailer (as seen in a post on this thread) is slightly wider, in order to accommodate those larger rubbermaid type boxes. Although the first trailer is very stable, as soon as you put something tall on it (centre of mass >1 foot from its bottom), the 16" wheel base becomes noticeably less stable. However, this is of little practical concern, since 2 large bags of birdfood stacked, camping gear, or three weeks of groceries have been no problem to transport.

Rear trailer:
bed width 14"
bed length 36"
track width 18" (the extra 2" really increase stability, since the bed's only 7" off the ground)
max width 23"
weight: 13lbs

In general I set the max width of the trailers to be less than the width of my handlebars (24") to guarantee they'd fit through any gaps that I could get my bicycle through.


Now that Spring's here, I'm thinking of using the trailer on a weekend bnicycle tour/camping trip. If anyone knows of a nice quiet camping area within an easy day's cycle (~<50miles) of Ann Arbor, Michigan, please speak up.

Yours sincerely,
AR.

astronomerroyal,
Thanks for the information, especially the additional comment about the increase in stability caused by difference in track width from 16" to 18".

Clearly, it's obvious that a wider track will increase stability, but by how much? Your practical experience is essential to anyone wanting to get it right first time.

Once again,
Many thanks.

Christopher

My trailer:
http://members.shaw.ca/feynn/biking/trailer.jpg

My chosen tow bike:
http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/phillips20c.jpg

The Twenty will be getting a dual drive and the trailer will be getting some smaller wheels to keep things level... I should have them mated up this week.

Well, snatched this off of CL for a song, only issue I had was getting it home with the scooter. I'm going to use it for the grocery getter and weekend camping gear hauler.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030352.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030352.jpg)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030351.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030351.jpg)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030348.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030348.jpg)


edit: Thumbnails: click to enlarge. Now to figure out what material to use for the flat bed. I might add some kind of sidewalls or just use a rubber maid container similar to ones I have seen on here.


another edit...
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030352copy.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030352copy.jpg)
Just roughly my goal. The black "web" is an elastic net that allows easy securing of loads.

The black "web" is an elastic net that allows easy securing of loads.

Unsolicited thoughts:

I also tried using elastic webbing, but in the end I found simple bungee cords to be more useful/versatile. I use a duffel bag for something like touring and a rubbermaid tub for groceries, neither of which warranted an elastic net, sadly - although it is attractive idea. For the most part I use built-in nylon straps with adjustable buckles for strapping purposes. Most useful by far. I think I posted a p[iiicture with these straps somewhere on this thread.

As for the bed material, I found that Makrolon polycarbonate works well (for my sidewalls). I would think 1/4" would be a good thickness for a bed, perhaps more if it's entirely self supporting.
that would be almost indestructible, although I expect some sort of wire mesh would actually be lighter (I use wire mesh for my trailer bed, but it might sag if it doesn't have some support i.e. crossbeams).

Those trailers look really well designed.

Sincerely,
AR.

Well, i just used some plywood our neighbor tossed out some time ago. So far I have $30 in the trailer. Next it will get some weather proof paint, reflective tape, mount the flag and possibly add a small lockable tool box on the front.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030357.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030357.jpg)
click to enlarge.

EDIT: All done now. Added the tail lights and some reflective tape.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030381.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030381.jpg)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030379.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030379.jpg)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/th_S5030367.jpg (http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh223/joeslow/S5030367.jpg)

Kept it simple and did a 10 mile grocery run. Can barely tell it is there when going straight, more when riding up a hill but as stable as can be.

Well, i just used some plywood our neighbor tossed out some time ago.

That was quick, looks good. What you apparently did in a couple of days took me a couple of months.

That was quick, looks good. What you apparently did in a couple of days took me a couple of months.

You built your trailer, and with the U-joint hitch you have some seriously good maneuverability. And your fenders are a nice addition too. Burley took all the guess work from me. I just slapped some plywood on there, no engineering involved.

Just a quick few shots of the bike & trailer combo
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/RaiynStorm/MybiketrailerGroceryBF.jpg (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=311932)
Grocery Mode
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/RaiynStorm/MybiketrailerUtilityBF.jpg (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=311932)
Utility (Recycling / non food hauling)
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/RaiynStorm/MybiketrailerrearviewgroceryBF.jpg (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=311932)
Rear view in Grocery mode

did you photoshop the window? And where did you get the triangle? I tried Ace Hardware, Academy, Target and Wal-mart.

And where did you get the triangle?

You can get them online. Do a google search for SMV sign (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=SMV+sign&btnG=Google+Search). SMV = Slow Moving Vehicle

Or you can try a different hardware / farm store. Homedepot, Lowes, etc. They shouldn't be too hard to find.

Here's my trailer: a PB Flyer from http://www.paddleboy.com/

Works great to haul my 12', 20lb. paddleboard down to the ocean behind my Trek beachcruiser.

http://stevelange.net/images/pbflyer.jpg

Steve

This isn't my trailer, but a guy who lives about 12 miles away who lives car-free brought this trailer up this weekend. The pic was taken at my local Bike Co-op's grand opening.

This trailer is claimed to be able to handle 700~ pounds. He brought it up for the Critical Mass ride this friday, and people took turns sitting in the trailer and playing guitar during the ride.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/carkmouch/DSC00299.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/carkmouch/DSC00300.jpg

This isn't my trailer..,This trailer is claimed to be able to handle 700~ pounds.

Presumably that '700~ pounds' is a typo, especially looking at the wheels.

Looks a nice useful trailer. But I wouldn't like to pull anything over ~ 100 lbs / 45 kg with such a trailer. The high hitch would make for interesting handling, when braking and turning, because when loaded-up the trailer attempts to overrun and pushes against the seat post. This effect occurs with all hitches, but is much greater with high hitches.

I know that http://www.bikesatwork.com/hauling-cargo-by-bike/hpv-cargo-capacity.html
talk of '300 lbs (137 kg)' and even larger payloads, but to haul these loads safely requires more common-sense and muscle than I could summon. Also good brakes and level-ground.


I still haven't built my new trailer yet. I have nearly scrounged all the parts.

I've been wanting to build a trailer for some time now and one day I found
these 16" wheels for free. So, no more waiting.

Still doing testing, but seems to be holding up.
69106
Picture on how I ended up doing my hitch.
69105
And here it is with some paint.
69104

That's a great looking trailer/hitch Mudflap - an efficient design. Does that long hitch arm flex very much?

Thanks
If it is flexing, I can't tell. I loaded it with 10gallons of water (83lbs) and it worked great.
I'm still testing.

Here is my simple trailer and the suitcase with my downtube bike and trailer in it.

Just finished my trailer recycling project last evening.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27209537@N00/2423884844/in/photostream/
This is a very old first series Burley Kiddie hauler that I purchased at a Flea Market for $20. Removed all the dry-rotted nylon and fabric, replaced hardwear as necessary (lots of extremely rusty bolts). Spent about $10 on stainless bolts and nuts. Busted as much rust as I could from all of the spokes, rebuilt and cleaned the wheels, and replaced a broken hitch. In the end - about $40 in my "new" cargo trailer. I'm loving it.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/2423884844_6cea8bdce6_m.jpg

...Bill Milam
Maryville TN

http://www.jonco48.com/blog/trailertrashxmas640pc9.jpg

Pulling the trailer with the fixed gear. Very interesting combination. I have to figure out how to turn this into a utility trailer now.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c399/WillworkforWag/fixietrailer.jpg

My buddy's homemade conduit bike trailer loaded up with a roto-tiller I borrowed from the land-lord and needed to fill with gas/return, hooked to Ol' Scrapey the single speed Murray

using some dead intertubes for tie-down straps, this rig rode better than it ever would have in a car.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3079/2481589441_93fbb59b2c_o.jpg

Hi. Here are some pics of two trailers that I built. I've been using them a lot (hauling a wide variety of things) and am still making improvements on future designs. I won't go into any lengthy descriptions here, other than to say that they're tig-welded aluminum, the longer trailer uses a through-axle, the shorter uses what I call "drop-ins" to support the wheels. I love this forum! You guys are really creative, and I check the threads all the time for inspiration.

The Model "C" loaded with about 200 lbs. of recycling
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/modelC.jpg

Model "C" unloaded
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/modelcempty.jpg

Hitch bracket design
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/bracketandhitch.jpg

Closeup of tongue and heim-joint
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/hitch.jpg

The Model "B"
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/modelB.jpg

Detail of Model "B" drop-in bracket
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/modelbdropin.jpg

A baby monkey with a toy duck
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/Allentown/monkey_and_stuff_duck_2.jpg

bloompedal8: My *****y old computer refuse to show me your pix. Is there a link? Thank you.

hmmmm...I have them hosted on photobucket...that's about all I can do, unless you'd like me to email the pics to you, which I'd be happy to do.

Recycling run with the kids www.flickr.com/photos/25503503@N08/ (http://www.bikeforums.net/www.flickr.com/photos/25503503@N08/)

In response to a Q I'm posting some general pictures of the lighting/dynamo setup on my trailer.

The above pictures
1. The dynamo mounted on chassis. Dynamo height and 12inch wheel fit together nicely.
2. The headlight. 1W LED +built-in current regulator, housed in a film canister on a simple swivelling mount. Requires 5v. Has a lens, which as the ebay advert described 'makes the bean throw long.'
3. One of he rear lights. 4 columns of 10mm (large) red LED pairs. Takes 10.4v if I remember correctly. Shockingly bright. Comes on at about 4mph, max brightness at 8mph. Voltage is regulated so no chance of burning out. Dynamo in background.
4. On the underside of the chassis, the dynamo feeds a voltage rectifier/smoother (on the right) and a ~10.4v voltage regulator (on the left).
5. The 10.4 v either drives the rear lights directly or can also be fed into the black box with the red display. This box provides regulated 5v output (for ipod charging via USB jack), can also take in a general voltage source (like the solar panel). Also provides the 5v needed for the headlight. The display is a voltage meter, telling you the input voltage or any voltage you desire (e.g. the voltage of rechargeable batteries that you're charging via the dynamo). I made it sound complicated, it isn't.
6. The innards of the voltage meter/regulator/distributor, reveals that I'm not actually an electronics wizard. The voltage meter was bought on ebay, I just added switches etc. It runs off its own battery, so can be used even when there's no sun, and you aren't cycling.

There's also a 6v dynamo on the other wheel. Why? Who knows?

Recycling run with the kids www.flickr.com/photos/25503503@N08/ (http://www.bikeforums.net/www.flickr.com/photos/25503503@N08/)

Today's recycle of deposit bottles/cans, without kids. $8.95 worth.

Deposit bottles?
Y'all do that up North?

I haven't seen a 5¢ return stamp on a Coke bottle in thirty years.

Deposit bottles?
Y'all do that up North?

I haven't seen a 5¢ return stamp on a Coke bottle in thirty years.
5¢ for beer, wine and liqueur bottles and cans too!
I shoulda made like Kramer from Seinfield and biked to Michigan where I could get a dime for each one of 'em.

I just completed my first trailer using the Wike DIY kit with an extra set of connectors and upgraded wheels. I built this specifically to do the weekly recycling/trash drop off run, and so far, so good. Didn't have much weight on it for the first trip, but it handled great.

Deposit bottles?
Y'all do that up North?

I haven't seen a 5¢ return stamp on a Coke bottle in thirty years.

Here is what dey look like!

Nice bike, er beer!

Nice bike, er beer!

Here's another; note the deposit info on left of label.

Deposit into stein first.

Deposit into stein first.

True, but up in the "North" we don't need that info on the label. :)

Her is my trailer built with stuff I had laying around (I bought 2 U-bolts and a package of Eye screws) 3/4 conduit for the tongue, 3/4 plywood flatbed, lawnmower wheels. the axles and tongue are just bolted to the plywood
Roy

You have enough room on the tongue for another 6 panniers. A very elegant line. Does the axle run from one wheel all the way to the other? I occasionally see those wheels on trailers and wonder if they're particularly light or strong, or perhaps they're just cheaper than bicycle wheels?

It has a 1/2" rod from the scap box at work for an axle I used those wheels because they were laying in the garage they are lawnmower wheels no bearings I would use something different if I planned on pulling it on the open road. I built it for running to the store in town I may shorten the tongue when I get my german three speed back together and see how short I can get by with I hauled around #80 four blocks with it with no problem I spent about $8 on parts for it 2 u-bolts ,1 eye-bolt, 10 eye screws everything else I had or scrounged
Roy

I go through "Great Plains" (division of Nothern Tool) for the wheels I use on my trailers. 5-spoked poly-wheel tire and tube, Kenda, rated at 180 lbs. per wheel. 1/2" ID sealed bearings. Good stuff.

Hello all,

My first post to this forum but I've been reading for a while.

Am at the moment finishing building my trailer, the design of which is loosely based on the Y-frame from CarryFreedom. The hitch took the most thinking and effort building, but I think it came out pretty nice. The heim joint (rose joint) seems to be invented just for this kind of job.

73476 73477

Only thing left to do is install the load bed and add a reflector.

More pictures of the trailer during construction can be found here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/motorconversion/BicycleTrailer

Something else that isn't trailer related but might still interest the odd person is an electricity-generating hometrainer I built about two years ago; construction details can be found here, for anyone interested:

http://www.anotherpower.com/gallery/dinges

Peter.

Here is my "new" build. Just a basic trailer.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i247/roughrider504/2008_06100001-1.jpg

Hello all,

My first post to this forum but I've been reading for a while.

Am at the moment finishing building my trailer,

...

Peter.

Do you have perchance a website/forum with more detailed descriptions of your work?

Do you have perchance a website/forum with more detailed descriptions of your work?

Are you talking about the trailer or about the hometrainer generator ? I do not have a personal website, but many of my old projects (mostly renewable energy-oriented) have been described in a forum I used to frequent:

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2005/12/10/163646/91 (for the hometrainer)

And for the other RE projects there are some write-ups here:

http://www.fieldlines.com/user/dinges/diary
http://www.fieldlines.com/user/dinges/stories

If you are asking about the trailer, I'm not sure I have much information (apart from the load calculations and plans with dimensions) that's not yet shown in the image gallery of it.

If you have any specific questions about the trailer or other projects, don't hesitate to ask.

Peter.

I hadn't realized, but of course lawnmowers would be a readily available source of good wheels.

I want to ask about the wheels. with this system I expected one wheel would unscrew itsself when in use. I would expect that wheel to maybe stay in place if you put two nuts and locked them together thight. How do you make it work, did you use it enough to find out?

I did something similar, but I am lucky an found some wheelchairs so I could build the hub from those wheels and built them into 20" wheels.

I expected one wheel would unscrew itsself when in use. I would expect that wheel to maybe stay in place if you put two nuts and locked them together thight. How do you make it work, did you use it enough to find out?

That's one worry I initially had too. I haven't used the trailer yet but I don't expect it'll be much of an issue as it takes quite some effort to screw the axle in the nut. I'm making the loadbed not too wide, so it's easy to regularly inspect whether one wheel does turn itself loose. If it should prove to come undone I'll lock them with a bit of Loctite 638.


I did something similar, but I am lucky an found some wheelchairs so I could build the hub from those wheels and built them into 20" wheels.

Funny thing... I've been looking for wheelchair wheels for nearly two years now. Never found any. Last month I broke down and got some old kid's bicycle wheels from the bike shop for cheap. Then, last weekend, I came across a wheelchair... I did check it out but as the wheels were too large (26") and I already had my 20" wheels I didn't buy it. Only the next day I realized I should have bought it anyway so I could take out the quick release hubs of the wheels and install them in 20" rims.

One worry I do have with the quick release wheels is theft. If it takes just a push of a button to remove the wheels, what's stopping thieves or vandals from getting them. Even plain quick-release skewers on a bike seem to be an invitation of 'take me'. You'd have to lock both wheels to the trailer in case of a wheelchair quick-release, at least over here.

The padlock on the hitch isn't an accident either. One of the designgoals from the start was that the trailer should be lockable to the bike.

Mind you, anyone that really wants the trailer just needs a 13 mm wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen one nut of the Heim joint and he can walk away with it, unless I use a cable lock to lock the trailer to the bikeframe.

Peter.