Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Fixed-Gear Century Ride

I'm riding a fixed-gear century this weekend along with my roadie friends.

Even though I've ridden a few road-bike centuries and one double century (the Seattle to Portland Classic two weeks ago in 10 hours and 30 minutes) I am nervous:

I did a 35 very hilly miles yesterday on the fixed and it left me sore. Fixed riding is definitely harder than road riding, all things being equal.

How many of you ride centuries on your fixed?

I did a flat century once (and no wind), wasn't any harder than my road bike. But obviously hills will be a lot tougher especially near the end. Good luck.

i did one a wile few feeks back it was flat, (toronto-london) but in was rainy and windy. i was tired by the end of it and chafed like a mother

The century route for this weekend calls for a 10 mile ascent with ... you guessed it... a 10 mile descent.

the main things i count on for a fixed century is a really comfortable saddle and an upright bar position. It can be depressing to watch other people coasting down hills while your legs are blur or spinning but it's worth trying to see if you can do it. (also a brake would probably help)

A front brake and a freewheel cog that is 1 tooth larger than your fixed cog should help. :) That way you can flip the rear wheel around at the top of the decent (don't forget a wrench).

Let us know how this turns out. There's one this fall I'm considering doing on the FG.

How many of you ride centuries on your fixed?

My last long distance fixed gear ride was the LA Grand Tour Highland double century in June. This was a hilly ride (10,000 ft) and the descents kicked my butt. The constant spinning and braking, even with both brakes, on the long descents absolutely drove me nuts. Next year, I'm doing this ride on a single speed, start to finish....why torture myself?....:p
Doing centuries with roadies shouldn't pose much of a difference from riding your geared bike as long as the route is relatively flat. :D

A front brake and a freewheel cog that is 1 tooth larger than your fixed cog should help. :) That way you can flip the rear wheel around at the top of the decent (don't forget a wrench).

What is the rationale for using a larger cog when going SS? I've heard this elsewhere as well and I am curious why.

My last long distance fixed gear ride was the LA Grand Tour Highland double century in June. This was a hilly ride (10,000 ft) and the descents kicked my butt. The constant spinning and braking, even with both brakes, on the long descents absolutely drove me nuts. Next year, I'm doing this ride on a single speed, start to finish....why torture myself?....:p
Doing centuries with roadies shouldn't pose much of a difference from riding your geared bike as long as the route is relatively flat. :D

You bring up a good point. Climbing is actually easier on a fixed than descending. Decents kick my ass, especially if they are long and I start to lose my form - consequently bouncing up and down on the saddle.

I do use a front brake BTW.

What is the rationale for using a larger cog when going SS? I've heard this elsewhere as well and I am curious why.

To give you an easier gear for those really bad hills or when you get tired. And you can coast on the downhills. :) Just pop one on the other side of the rear hub (as long as you have a flip/flop hub) and it'll be there just in case.

I personally would go with a 2 tooth difference on a flip flop. There's not much gear inch change with a single tooth difference, although noticable. :)

That's my plan: 42-15 fixed, 42-17 free.

Been there done that. Big descents really are the worst thing about fixed LD riding. This is where the geared roadies will drop you. If you pick the right gear and speed you will almost never get uncomfortable on the climbs and you'll have little or no trouble keeping up. I wouldnt use a freewheel just for a century because it'd be almost as much of a pain to flip your wheel 2 or more times as it'd be to spin down some big hills, and you dont get hardcore points from flipping your wheel.

If you can do a double geared you can totally do a fixed cent. Gittrdone!

I've done a couple at this point. Make sure your seat height is good before starting off, because your knees or hips are going to let you know that something ain't right halfway through it. I'll second what's posted above - if your back tends to get cramped up, make sure you have some method of raising your bars; definitely a helpful option to have.

Anyone done a century riding a track frame, or are you guys doing these on road conversions? I'd be curious to know how one would deal with track geometry over 100 miles...

Anyone done a century riding a track frame, or are you guys doing these on road conversions? I'd be curious to know how one would deal with track geometry over 100 miles...I've ridden my Cinelli Olympic on a couple of long distance rides.....not fun after 3 hours in the saddle. My Steamroller and road conversion are very comfortable for all day rides.

Anyone done a century riding a track frame, or are you guys doing these on road conversions? I'd be curious to know how one would deal with track geometry over 100 miles...


I have a Pista - so it's your typical track geometry. Longest ride so far (on the Pista) has only been about 50 miles or so.

For the century, I plan on installing a carbon fork (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=326058&page=2), which is currently en route. The carbon fork will laxen up the geometry a bit and increase the rake by 15mm. It will be a welcome change from the stock track fork, which is flexy for braking and bit too steep for LD.

With the addition of water bottle cages and a road saddle and my new Nitto RB-021 pursuit bars, the Pista is just as century-worthy as my road bike. The only issue is that fact that it is fixed.

More rake will actually decrease the trail, which should make the bike twitchier, not more stable. This is a common misconception.

I've done several-- and I love it... the only bad part, as has been mentioned above is the downhills... I did a century on Skyline Drive in Virginia--with over 10,000 ft of climbing, and did Ride the Rockies--450+ miles in the mountains-- on the fixie--with a 48x18. The worst part was the downhills, but I did get up to 37 mph (way too fast on a fixie). I put a second brake on for the Rockies ride, and it has stayed on my bike--I think I'll keep it :)

They (Centuries on fixies) are fun-- we are planning on getting a gropup to do the Reston Century in Virginia on the fixies in late August--

train safe-

More rake will actually decrease the trail, which should make the bike twitchier, not more stable. This is a common misconception.

I didn't mention anything about being twitchy or otherwise. The new fork will be longer (axel to crown) which will serve to slacken the head tube and seat tube angle. But that's off topic.


I've done several-- and I love it... the only bad part, as has been mentioned above is the downhills... I did a century on Skyline Drive in Virginia--with over 10,000 ft of climbing, and did Ride the Rockies--450+ miles in the mountains-- on the fixie--with a 48x18. The worst part was the--


That sounds like a suffer-fest! 48x18T seems to be a good compromise gear. I am running that now.

did 200km per day, 3 consecutive days in escarpments on a fixed gear. no issues. if the downhill sections would be really long, i'd flip to freewheel.

44x16 fixed, 44x18 free. It's not hard once you get past the 100km mark...it's like you find a 2nd wind or something!

On a side note, make sure to hydrate. You are going to be doing a little more work than the others.

Damn maybe i need a freewheel to make my bike into a true ld machine. That would also create a use for my second brake lever. Ya know though I would be inclined to gear higher with the freewheel for hill bombing purposes.

After my last fixed double century torture-fest I finally decided to give a freecog a try. I ordered a White Industries 18 freewheel cog and so far I like having it on the flip side of my long distance ride. :)

Ya know though I would be inclined to gear higher with the freewheel for hill bombing purposes.Well.....you have a choice there ....you can flip your wheel at the bottom of a big hill or at the top of a big hill...:D

Been there done that. Big descents really are the worst thing about fixed LD riding. This is where the geared roadies will drop you. If you pick the right gear and speed you will almost never get uncomfortable on the climbs and you'll have little or no trouble keeping up. I wouldnt use a freewheel just for a century because it'd be almost as much of a pain to flip your wheel 2 or more times as it'd be to spin down some big hills, and you dont get hardcore points from flipping your wheel.

If you can do a double geared you can totally do a fixed cent. Gittrdone!

do you not get any hardcore points for unclipping and bombing the descent with your legs up?

That's somewhere in the no mans land between hardcore points and dumbass points. I guess if you can get away with it it's hardcore. I did it once in the middle of a 225 k ride and cracked my front fender by kicking it, causing a bad over the bars crash a couple weeks later. That was dumbassed.

That's somewhere in the no mans land between hardcore points and dumbass points. I guess if you can get away with it it's hardcore. I did it once in the middle of a 225 k ride and cracked my front fender by kicking it, causing a bad over the bars crash a couple weeks later. That was dumbassed.


but was the downhill fun?

I've done a few centurys, only one so far this year.

I use a conversion bike with a real comfortable saddle. I also use fakey brake hoods with wide touring drop bars. This gives you the most hand positions, which I really like when your on the bike for over 5 hours.

Bike fit is critical. If your saddle or pedals are not tuned in, you will feel it on the ride and probably for the next few days.

I think one thing a lot of people over look for long distance riding is tire selection. Tires that have a good feel and are comfortable make a huge difference. Cheap tires transfer much road vibration to your body. On a long ride, this can kick your ass!!

Big Downhills.... you just get used to them after a while and then they still suck. I have a cadence sensor on my fixed gear. When I know I am going to hilly areas, I see if I can break my RPM record. This makes the discomfort a little more rewarding.

On a side note, make sure to hydrate. You are going to be doing a little more work than the others.

im going to "attempt" my first century in the late summer due to my wife having a bug in her ass about "accomplishing something awesome" this summer.. so of course ill back her up but im gonna go all or nothing and ride the surly. my gearing is 48x16.. im gonna follow this thread closely for more tips. ;)

I have a Pista - so it's your typical track geometry. Longest ride so far (on the Pista) has only been about 50 miles or so.

For the century, I plan on installing a carbon fork (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=326058&page=2), which is currently en route. The carbon fork will laxen up the geometry a bit and increase the rake by 15mm. It will be a welcome change from the stock track fork, which is flexy for braking and bit too steep for LD.

With the addition of water bottle cages and a road saddle and my new Nitto RB-021 pursuit bars, the Pista is just as century-worthy as my road bike. The only issue is that fact that it is fixed.

imho pursuit bars won't be comfy...

^ ^ ^ who knew honda tech would be here!! LOL

this thread is 9 mos old. I did the century (and several more) with bullhorns. Now I run a higher gear at 39x14t. I can spin to over 210 rpm now so the downhills aren't AS challenging anymore.

^ ^ ^ who knew honda tech would be here!! LOL

haha ken and jesse are on here too

me and a couple of other people in albuquerque are planning on riding the santa fe century fixed. figure out how to put bmx pegs on your downtube shifter braze-ons and downhills are a breeze.

im going to "attempt" my first century in the late summer due to my wife having a bug in her ass about "accomplishing something awesome" this summer.. so of course ill back her up but im gonna go all or nothing and ride the surly. my gearing is 48x16.. im gonna follow this thread closely for more tips. ;)

That 48x16 will probably be a little tall unless it's flat. The last time I did over 100mi I was riding 48x18 or 17. That worked well for me, but I was taking lots of breaks (it was a 24hr race). If it was all in one stretch, I don't think I'd go any higher than 48x18.

this thread is 9 mos old. I did the century (and several more) with bullhorns. Now I run a higher gear at 39x14t. I can spin to over 210 rpm now so the downhills aren't AS challenging anymore.

Hey congrats MIN. I want to get out on some distance rides soon.

In 2007 I rode one 200k singlespeed, one 200k fixed, and one century fixed. My suggestions for a tolerable ride follows. Figure out a comfortable downhill speed/spin rate. Do not deviate from this. You will save your legs for the last portion of the ride. Second, put on a cross brake if you don't already have one. Will take the pressure off your shoulders during the ride. Third, set a pace below what you think you will ride for the first 30-40 miles; at that point you will have a better idea of what downhills are doing to you, etc. and can adjust ahead of the fatigue curve. Just let me suggest before closing - if your legs are a blur going downhill or you are bouncing up and down -- bonksville is waiting. Good luck.

the ride is in northwest indiana so im betting its flat as all get out

I am switching to tubular wheels today. Velocity Escapes laced to Formulas. I have tubular Zipps on my geared bike and the ride quality was a compelling reason to switch.

My expectation is that the ride quality will improve. I use cheap clinchers on my Pista, which is the primary reason why the ride is so harsh. I will install a brake when I make the switch since tubs are $$$.

BTW, I am losing over a 1 pound on the wheelset.

This will be totally doable but you'll get dropped on the first down hill and never be able to catch back up (unless your roadie friends are a lot slower than you).

This will be totally doable but you'll get dropped on the first down hill and never be able to catch back up (unless your roadie friends are a lot slower than you).

Yeah in my experience you're best off distance riding with other fixers, for this reason. The pace is just not compatible on any descent... even a fairly weak road rider will have no trouble dropping the poor ******* who has to spin all the way down.

i've only done one 100mi on a steel lugged with carbon fork and ti stem, carbon seatpost, selle san marco rever k, bullhorns and nike something or other shorts using 47x16 ratio. it was great, and i kept a nice pace, stopped three times to eat and stretch. Wound up being like 105 miles.

i also did the ms150 city to shore, which is a fully supported ride (on the same bike), 75 miles saturday, 75 sunday.my pace varied a ton, and i think i stopped five times on day 1, three on day 2.

everything else i've done fixed has been under 70 miles. doing distances fixed isn't an issue whatsoever, so long as you don't have too agile a gearing, realize that you have to hold a spin when you want to go fast, and aren't descending too many steep declines for too long.
in fact, other than the declines, as long as your gearing is optimal for you, there aren't too many differences between doing it on a roadbike (unless you're a non-rider and coast all day) and a fixed track bike.

spooki what do you mean by agile?

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=%22agile+gearing%22&btnG=Search

the opposite of a tall gearing; a lower gear ratio.

It sorta crept into my vocabulary after spending a month or so reading articles and tips on time trialing.
Much nicer than saying "smaller" or "easier", and when you think about how quickly it can help you bounce up a hill, becomes an appropriate usage.'

*ed: actually, hardly any google hits result.

maybe i misread it somewhere? ****, i just coined it. holdon, making a wikipedia article.

me and a couple of other people in albuquerque are planning on riding the santa fe century fixed. figure out how to put bmx pegs on your downtube shifter braze-ons and downhills are a breeze.

I did that one fixed last year, it's no biggie....although you do get tired of the downhills ;)

Most I've done was a 130 mile ride on a 49/17 (75gi) with a brake on the Cannondale track with A-spokes on. It was a flat route pretty much with some climbs but it wasn't an issue. Of course if there were alot of climbs it may have been a bit more difficult but I don't think you have anything to worry about. Just make sure you eat right along the way and you should be fine. One trick I did was once I got to mile 50 I told myself it's a new ride starting at zero and it takes your mind off the meter count effect.

i've done one fg century. i'm glad everything was set up right, i would have been really uncomfortable. fortunately, i already ride enough to have that figured out to a t. i did put a brake on because i was told there were some big hills, but nothing bigger than some of the big hills in portland (like the one down interstate) which i did brakeless. however, near the end of the ride i was glad to have a brake just because of tired legs.

i did notice a few things: brake hoods would have been nice. the more hand positions, the better. i wouldn't even fault a person for putting on aero bars. standing up and coasting isn't possible, so getting out of the saddle to give your ass a rest is harder, that will wear on you by the end of the day, but not too bad if you suck it up and wear some spandex. also, if you're pacelining, those people on freewheels can just coast if the pace drops a little bit, you have to backpedal or hit your brake a bit. either way, it's not as easy for you, and it's really annoying if anyone keeps dropping their pace. finding people to ride with is hard. i found it way easier to lock into a good cadence and go my own pace and let people draft off of me. on the way home, i just wanted to get back and was riding with a group with a slower novice rider, so i had to eventually just leave them and tuck in the drops since it was windy, and just hammer the last 45 miles or so by myself, and it was actually easier to deal with the (fairly strong) wind than to deal with slowing down for freewheel riders while on a fixed gear.

was 10 miles of descent/ascent a mistake? cause that's ****ing crazy talk.