Classic & Vintage - My Miyata 610

Hi guys,

Just posted this in the miyata yahoo group but i figure i might as well share with you people too. These pages have been great references for me thanks everyone!


SN: J542333
Bought for $25 because it was rust free (literally)

Original components (dérailleurs) were seized and i broke the rear
brake when i was attempting to tune it up. Checked inside the frame,
it appears to have frame saver (rustless but a white residue inside).

Rode it for a while w/ the old tires, loved it, so decided to put some
money in it and fix it up.

Installed the following:
-Stainless steel cables & Teflon housing
-Shimano 105 brakes front and rear (had to modify the mounts a little
for the pads to be able to reach)
-Shimano Deore rear derailleuer
-Continental Ultra Sport 27x1 1/4" tires and new tubes
-Shimano downstem shift levers,
-350mm seatpost (diameter is 26.7 on the frame, tube is 26.6 but it
holds just fine)
-New bar tape
-Rubber hoods for brake levers

what a great bike! this is my favorite bike i've ever riden (and its
too small!). I enjoy it even over the soma frames i've had a chance
to test out.

Questions/comments welcomeNow before I give you the pictures, please keep in mind that I KNOW I'M A GIANT :) I just wanted to build my own bike and this frame was in the best condition i could find, and for the price it was a steal. I plan to get a bigger frame in time. I forgot to say that to the miyata group and i received like 5 emails in a half hour about how i need a bigger bike.

ok, now here's the pics (http://www.planetlyme.com/gallery/bruiserbike)


Oh yea, about the aero's i put on. There were 2 problems updating from the old originals to the new 105's.

1: The mounting bolts for both the rear and front brakes did not come all the way through the frame and the nut was too wide to fit inside the holes drilled for the old school breaks.
2: The reach on these brakes were about 2mm too short and were touching the tire rubbers, which obviously is my fault for not taking in reach for consideration.

so what i did was this:
http://www.planetlyme.com/gallery/bruiserbike/where_to_file?full=1
I took a dremel w/ a carbide shaving bit to the frame to widen the rear hole just enough so i could slide the centering nut onto the bolt (left yellow circle). I had to do this to both the front and rear mounts of the break. remember, if you are going to do this, i am only talking about the hole farthest caliper itself, if you do both you will lose the tight fit you need prevent any flex. also be sure to keep the holes aligned best you can or your brake will go on crooked.

for the reach all i did was take a file (******* cut, they should have it at any hardware store) to the bottom of the shoe's height adjustment track (right yellow circle) and filed away just enough to allow the shoes to contact the rim. also, i shaved the brakes a little bit so they taper in just in case.

thanks for checking it out!

What's the thinking behind running the dt shifter cables through the dt double cable stop???

Wasn't sure if I should have taken it off or not, should i?

Yes, take off the cable stop, the downtube shifters don't need it. Did the bike originally have stem shifters? Also, the bike looks identical to the 310 that I have. Are you sure it is a 610?

Yep, i'm sure this is a 610 (unless someone printed custom decals)

will take off the cable stop as soon as i get a chance

thanks

Yes, take off the cable stop, the downtube shifters don't need it. Did the bike originally have stem shifters? Also, the bike looks identical to the 310 that I have. Are you sure it is a 610?

Yes, it's a 1981 model 610. The prime difference to your 310 is the triple crankset. In this case, the inner chainring appears to have been removed, leaving the very close 52/47T combination. This is not a typical double combination for a Miyata of the era and in combination with the small bolt circle indicates it was originally a triple. Stem shifters would have been original equipment.

wow, nice eye

yep, i took off the 36, and would like to take off the 47 as well, but don't have the spacers. eventually the 36 will go back on, but as long as the weather is hot i'm trying to push myself

You need a bigger frame. Hey, I'm not saying it :) : http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/386324801.html

What do you mean by touring bike? I don't think this model of 610 had touring geometry, especially if it has an identical frame to the 310. You'd be damn lucky if someone trades you a 1000!

By touring, do you mean a slightly more relaxed geometry than modern competitive frames? Your options may be limited, due to the size you need. What size have you decided on? 64cm? 68 cm?

Actually, you may be lucky. Large frames do come up quite often, it seems to me, and I'd imagine the demand is small, though I may be wrong.

Oh, I'm not exactly local to Philly, but if you ever make your way to Northwestern NJ, I can help you remove the crankset.

Thanks for the reply.

Yea i know i'd be damn lucky to get a 1000, but i am not going to trade for anything other than a step up.

thanks!

Id love to see the pictures - I have the same brake problem. The link is empty now.

Im not to worried about the front, ill drill that out, but the rear hole is a cylinder through the crossstay(or whatever its called). I dont know if the walls of the cylinder is thick enough to shave of 1 mm(which I need to expand it 2 mm in total to fit the 8 mm nut.) Anyone knows?