Fifty Plus (50+) - Changing a stuck pedal

First of all, please read "Go ahead, laugh and get it out of your system" so you aren't tempted to respond with the humor my decision to NOT go clipless undoubtably deserves. That's why I created that thread. In this thread, I have a serious question.

I bought a pair of Wellgo platforms for my bike. I've been trying to remove the existing pedals and can't get them loose. (I know about which way to rotate, by the way). I put WD40 on them over night as well, and no joy.

I have a cheap pedal removal tool, made by Spin Doctor, which is a fairly short, light metal wrench. I have tried whacking it with a hammer, but ain't nothing working.

My LBS changes pedals for $30, which seems outrageous for a task that will take them 1 minute. But I can't get mine off, so my choices are: let the LBS do the change, or buy a better tool. They seem to range from about $15 - $25. Would it be worth it, or am I going to find out even with a better wrench I STILL can't get the pedals off? Remember, I have the mechanical aptitude of a banana slug.

And I have no rack to hold the bike so I'm trying to do this while holding the bike steady.

I hate mechanical projects!

So...get a better wrench or let the LBS do it one more time???

I recently had a stuck pedal - it was the kind that used an allen wrench - after bruising my hand, going through a bottle of liquid wrench, and losing a day of riding - I ended up at lbs- they only charged me $5 - so a relative bargain. And it took them two guys and 15 minutes to get it off - so I was not just being a weenie.

Maybe buy a big-a** cheap c-wrench of the right size. Spray on the WD 40. Let it set a spell. Wack the wrench (in the proper direction, of course) at the far end with a hammer, for maximum leverage. Lather, rinse, repeat.

If that doesn't work, find another LBS. I've bought pedals that cost less than $30.

when re-installing pedals, use some grease on the threads and don't overtighten.

Took a piece of 1 3/4 pipe slipped over the one pedal I had off, and let the other end of the pipe rest on floor. Put wrnech on other pedal, and another piece of pipe on the wrench (tried the hammer routine- no joy). two pipes worked. Since you have the pedal on, you'd have to cut a slot in the end of the pipe to allow it to slide over the pedal.

30.00 sounds pretty cheap, considering your time, the wrnech you're gonna mangle, and the bloody knuckles sure to become involved.

When you put the new pedals on go to any auto parts store and pick up some stuff called "neversieze" it's for spark plugs but works great on other stuff, too.

Try PB Blaster on the threads of the pedal. I've seen it loosen things that others didn't. Any good hardware store should have it.

In addition to all the above: "Vibration is your friend", as a wise shop foreman told me when I had to undo a seized bolt. In addition to a good penetrating lube, firmly (but not destructively!) tapping the objects with a hammer to set them shakin' can help the lube do its work; sometimes to the extent that the parts will come apart without brute force measures. Also be sure to allow the time needed for the penetrant to do its work (see instructions on label).

As mentioned, anti-seize compound or even just grease or oil is de rigeur on nearly all threaded fittings on a bike to prevent this very problem. Also needed on seatposts & threaded stems before insertion to keep them from seizing.

BTW, for future reference, copper-based anti seize is needed for carbon fiber posts, stems, and/or frames.

Here's how you do it. First, go buy a new torch....

$30 to change pedals???!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Holy crap, what a ripoff!

Sounds like your pedal wrench is probably too short to get enough leverage on the pedal to loosen it. A decent shop would lend you a nice long pedal wrench to do a better job. If that won't do it, the LBS should remove them for free since they must have installed them too tight and without greasing the threads first. I know you said you know which way to rotate them, but just to be sure, you are turning the wrench toward the rear of the bike from the top, right?

Gee,
Find another LBS -- seriously. I would probably talk to the shop you purchased Ruby from (we are talking Ruby here, right?) and suggest they cranked a bit too hard on the stock pedals. Little help here...

$30 to change pedals???!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Holy crap, what a ripoff!

Sounds like your pedal wrench is probably too short to get enough leverage on the pedal to loosen it. A decent shop would lend you a nice long pedal wrench to do a better job. If that won't do it, the LBS should remove them for free since they must have installed them too tight and without greasing the threads first. I know you said you know which way to rotate them, but just to be sure, you are turning the wrench toward the rear of the bike from the top, right?

Ya.

I like the idea of having them remove the pedals. After all, they put 'em on in the first place! I'm going to go there tomorrow.

PB Blaster or brake fluid are considered the best for loosening threads; although I never had a thread loosen by either. You want a regular automotive type open end wrench. Those stamped steel "bike tool" wrenches are useless. I'm pretty sure you want a 15mm wrench. I can't test for you, because at my age I'm always misplacing tools....currently both my 15mm wrenches are missing. I have better results with sliding a pipe over end of wrench for leverage, rather then pounding with hammer. If you have gotten off the other pedal, you can slide another pipe over the crank arm for leverage to hold crank. Maybe even position that crank arm with pipe against a building/stone wall, to hold it. Although since your not mechanical, you no doubt have no pipe. It's not rocket science. Try a auto mechanic at garage. He probably will consider it a diversion to work on a toy and remove it for nothing.

Grease the new pedals when you put them on. Pay to have someone to do it (I know how mechanically inclined you aren't).

For others, my special wrench is a 15mm combination wrench cut in half and welded to each end of a 2' section of pipe. Its not so much that it gives me more leverage but rather that it provides leverage under control. There is nothing quite like punching the floor when the stuck pedal suddenly gives. You will probably have to grind the 15mm box end slightly thinner to fit most pedals. The box wrench end serves as a good place to hang the tool.

DG I hope that the Wellgo pedals are white??

Took a piece of 1 3/4 pipe slipped over the one pedal I had off, and let the other end of the pipe rest on floor. Put wrnech on other pedal, and another piece of pipe on the wrench (tried the hammer routine- no joy). two pipes worked. Since you have the pedal on, you'd have to cut a slot in the end of the pipe to allow it to slide over the pedal.



Remember, I have the mechanical aptitude of a banana slug.

I hate mechanical projects!



Remember, folks, we are dealing with a person who calls changing pedals a "mechanical project."

Here's a freebee way to do it. Ride to a shop and tell them you want to test ride one of their new <<fill in the blank>> bikes. Then say you want to ride with your own pedals. They should, as a courtesy, put your pedals on the test bike. That's how I do test rides. The lbs always mounts my pedals on the test bike for free. When you finish the ride, pull out your new pedals and say that instead of re-mounting your old (crappy) pedals, could they please just put on these new Wellgos. No extra work at all. I do it all the time. The advantage of this approach is that you get to test a neat new bike. Yesterday I rode a very nice Eddy Merckx and the shop was happy to take the pedals off my bike and put them on the Merckx so I could test it.

You said you know the direction to turn, but just to make sure: left pedal has left-handed threads and turns CW to loosen!

I don't use a pipe, I just get an box end wrench and position it on the pedal so that the wrench turns TOWARD the crank arm to loosen. Then you appply pressure by squeezing the wrench to the arm. Less likely to ruin a knuckle, plus you can get a lot of pressure that way!

You said you know the direction to turn, but just to make sure: left pedal has left-handed threads and turns CW to loosen!

I don't use a pipe, I just get an box end wrench and position it on the pedal so that the wrench turns TOWARD the crank arm to loosen. Then you appply pressure by squeezing the wrench to the arm. Less likely to ruin a knuckle, plus you can get a lot of pressure that way!

BP beat me to it but pay attention to the direction on the left pedal just in case you didn't know!!

Thrust is another good over the counter loosening agent.

Does the bolt end have an allen wrench slot an allen wrench will fit into (look on the opposite side of crank from the pedal? You might get more leverage that way-especially with some additional leverage. Ship it to me and I'll get it off...........

What works for me is a 15mm open end wrench and a brass or deadblow hammer ( a steel hammer will bounce to much and not give as much force to the blow). I use a 3# brass and it never fails. No skinned knuckles, no messy lubes. Oh, and if you are dissassembling the bike, take the pedals off brfore you remove the crank.

You said you know the direction to turn, but just to make sure: left pedal has left-handed threads and turns CW to loosen!

Instead of trying to remember which pedal is clockwise and which is counterclockwise, I find it easier to remember to turn the wrench toward the front of the bike to tighten and toward the rear to loosen.

Use the Park professional pedal wrench....... the LBS will probably use this wrench to install and remove pedals.......effortlessly!!!

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=27&item=PW%2D4

I have NEVER had a pedal that failed to "yield" to this wrench.
There is nothing worse than cheap/crappy tools.

[QUOTE=tlc20010;4969784]Remember, folks, we are dealing with a person who calls changing pedals a "mechanical project."

Here's a freebee way to do it. Ride to a shop and tell them you want to test ride one of their new <<fill in the blank>> bikes. Then say you want to ride with your own pedals. QUOTE]

Grampster, you're a genius.:beer:

You can always change out the crank.:D

I know, this is the serious thread. Just couldn't resist.

$30 is a ripoff if you can do it your self, its a great deal if you can't do it your self. Its all relative.

Gee,
I would probably talk to the shop you purchased Ruby from (we are talking Ruby here, right?) and suggest they cranked a bit too hard on the stock pedals.

<Guiness Boyz>
BRILLIANT!
</Guiness Boyz>

Yeah - get them to do it (presumably they won't charge you anything near $30 - should be free).

Having said that, you probably DO want to be able to get your pedals on and off as required. A good pedal wrench (read that "long handled pedal wrench" - leverage is your friend) is invaluable. Also, some way to block the crank from moving wouldn't hurt either. Good luck.

$30 is a ripoff if you can do it your self, its a great deal if you can't do it your self. Its all relative.

It is worth paying a reasonable amount if you can't do it yourself, but $30 is not a reasonable amount. I suppose if the pedals were seriously frozen in place and it took them an hour of steady work to get them off, then $30 might be reasonable. But in all likelihood it won't take more than a minute or two.

Last time I was in that situation, I used Liquid Wrench, soaked it liberally, tapped it with a hammer as they recommend, then I waited a day and tried again. It took 3 cycles of this to do the job but it worked.

Ya.

I like the idea of having them remove the pedals. After all, they put 'em on in the first place! I'm going to go there tomorrow.

I ended up taking my bike to the LBS to get the pedals removed because I couldn't budge them:( Even the wrench at the shop had a hard time getting them loose. At least my LBS has never charged me for swapping pedals on the bikes. I think I would squawk at the $30.

Happy Ending!

So I take the bike to the LBS, and they swap the pedals. The wrench used that long Park Tools wrench, and they came right off after a bit of ooommmphing. He agreed they were on tight. He greased the new pedals and installed 'em.

Then he hands me an invoice for $10. I question him, asking if that charge was applied to new bikes when the new owner choose a pedal, and said, "Yep. They want me to make some money back here too."

I didn't say much, but grumbled on my way to the register. The shop manager was there and he remembered me (he sold me the pedals). He asked me if I had gotten them installed and I told him I couldn't get 'em off and that the guy in the back had put them on. I handed him the invoice.

He looked at me, said "Don't tell him I'm doing this," and put the invoice in a drawer. No charge.

Now doggone it, what shall I do with my "ready for a fight" energy that I brought into the store? This is the second time they've very pleasantly surprised me. First time you might remember I came in about two weeks after buying my bike and noticed it was now on sale -- and they refunded the difference (over $100) on the spot!

Mind you, this LBS is inconvenient -- at least four LBS's are closer to my place. But I guess I have to keep trading there -- they have a great attitude!

Oh -- and the $30 charge listed by the pedals display I still don't understand. Maybe it's for people who buy pedals for their used bikes and want them installed? I don't know.

I'm excited about my new pedals and look forward to a good ride this afternoon.

Happy Ending!

So I take the bike to the LBS, and they swap the pedals. The wrench used that long Park Tools wrench, and they came right off after a bit of ooommmphing. He agreed they were on tight. He greased the new pedals and installed 'em.

Then he hands me an invoice for $10. I question him, asking if that charge was applied to new bikes when the new owner choose a pedal, and said, "Yep. They want me to make some money back here too."

I didn't say much, but grumbled on my way to the register. The shop manager was there and he remembered me (he sold me the pedals). He asked me if I had gotten them installed and I told him I couldn't get 'em off and that the guy in the back had put them on. I handed him the invoice.

He looked at me, said "Don't tell him I'm doing this," and put the invoice in a drawer. No charge.

Now doggone it, what shall I do with my "ready for a fight" energy that I brought into the store? This is the second time they've very pleasantly surprised me. First time you might remember I came in about two weeks after buying my bike and noticed it was now on sale -- and they refunded the difference (over $100) on the spot!

Mind you, this LBS is inconvenient -- at least four LBS's are closer to my place. But I guess I have to keep trading there -- they have a great attitude!

Oh -- and the $30 charge listed by the pedals display I still don't understand. Maybe it's for people who buy pedals for their used bikes and want them installed? I don't know.

I'm excited about my new pedals and look forward to a good ride this afternoon.

Good going DG. Now get out there and ride of all that pent up energy.

My guess is that the pedal change charge is for folks who bring in Nashbar purchased pedals and want the lbs to install them.

I'm excited about my new pedals and look forward to a good ride this afternoon.

Seems to me that's exactly what you should be doing with all that pent-up energy! Glad to hear it all worked out, and htat you have such a great LBS. This is the kind of place that keeps people coming back. I have one like this too- have to go into the center of town to get there, but it's definitely worth it.

Happy Ending!

I'm excited about my new pedals and look forward to a good ride this afternoon.

Cool! :D

[QUOTE=Digital Gee;4972410]Happy Ending!

QUOTE]

Damn. I really wanted to see what you were gonna do with that big hammer and a jar of lube.

[QUOTE=Digital Gee;4972410]Happy Ending!

QUOTE]

Damn. I really wanted to see what you were gonna do with that big hammer and a jar of lube.

hmmmmmmm.....................I was thinking the same thing

but this is a G rated forum

Ruby is too new to have really stuck pedals, unless someone forgot to put anti-sieze on the threads when they were installed. Take it all to the shop where you bought it. I know you are 'tool averse' and maybe you should leave well enough alone. They may want $ for it, but Ruby is too nice to abuse. bk

Maybe buy a big-a** cheap c-wrench of the right size. Spray on the WD 40. Let it set a spell. Wack the wrench (in the proper direction, of course) at the far end with a hammer, for maximum leverage. Lather, rinse, repeat.

If that doesn't work, find another LBS. I've bought pedals that cost less than $30.

when re-installing pedals, use some grease on the threads and don't overtighten.

Bad advice re: "don't overtighten". My LBS owner told me that pedals are about the only thing on the bike that you "can't overtighten".

Park Tools recommend 276-354 in-lbs of torque, depending on the pedal.

DG's pedal was likely not "stuck"...more likely, it was properly torqued, and his "shorty" pedal wrench was simply not up to the task of removal.

Bad advice re: "don't overtighten". My LBS owner told me that pedals are about the only thing on the bike that you "can't overtighten".

Park Tools recommend 276-354 in-lbs of torque, depending on the pedal.

.

I've seen some references to being careful not to strip the threads due to over tightening. Why does Park recommend lbs of torque if it doesn't matter? I doubt I would have any problem applying too much pressure to over tighten:o

I've seen some references to being careful not to strip the threads due to over tightening. Why does Park recommend lbs of torque if it doesn't matter? I doubt I would have any problem applying too much pressure to over tighten:o

Well, if you used a really big wrench, or a "cheater bar" (i.e., a length of pipe), you could get 400+ in-lbs, and that could be bad. Probably not due to stripping, but due to how difficult it would be to remove. But with a standard pedal wrench, I doubt that over-torquing is much of an issue.

As for why Park recommends lbs of torque - every bolt on your bike has a recommended torque value. They're designed to ensure parts stay together, and not damage the components.

post-mortem comments:

as noted on the Park Tools site, put the chain on the large chain ring so you don't get impaled when you slip. I use a towel or two to pad things.

the length of the wrench makes a huge difference; get the longest one that you can.

In addition to the WD-40, stuff, I've also had success with boiling water.

I'm glad it worked out for you. I checked out some airfares from St Louis to San Diego, but I'd still have to charge somewhat more than $30.00. I'd be worth it though 'cause I'm good!

I'm glad it worked out for you. I checked out some airfares from St Louis to San Diego, but I'd still have to charge somewhat more than $30.00. I'd be worth it though 'cause I'm good!

:beer:

I wonder if old auto mechanics tricks would work. We used amonia on stuck axle shafts. Part was to free stuck "stuff" and part was to chill the part so it would shrink slightly. Perhaps "icing" the pedal would work?

I had never noticed the one about putting the chain on the outer ring........filed that away for future reference as it seems like such a simple and reasonable suggestion.......ouch.

I still like the idea of a big hammer.

Any time I've got anything seized up on the bike (cartridge bearings in hubs, stuck seat post, stuck old-style stem in threaded steerer), and it's an aluminum-to-steel connection, my last resort is a propane torch. Heat the aluminum so it expands and then pull it loose, or wait until the aluminum and steel are cooling and pull it loose depending on whether the steel is inside the aluminum or vice-versa.

As far as tightening cranks, I once completely stripped the pedal threads on a set of old Ultegra cranks after swapping out a set of Shimano SPD pedals for a set of Bontrager SPD pedals. I'm not sure whether I overtightened or didn't tighten enough. Very strange. I had used an anti-seize lubricant on the threads, and I thought that might have contributed to this. I put the pedals on, went for a ride, and stripped the threads on both cranks while climbing a 1-km hill. Anway, I've had the Bontrager pedals on two subsequent sets of cheaper Shimano cranks and no problems.

- L.

Now that you can get the pedals on and off, it's time for a set of these:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=17070&category=114