What is the fastest & the lightest eletric bike on earth?

[lyen]

All, I am trying to built a fastest & lightest bike to go to work in San Francisco. The distance is about 10 US miles each way. My current electric bike weight 110lbs with 6 12v 12ah batteries on a 180w-250w motor & the maxium speed is only 12-15mph. Please advice. Thanks!

[EbikeHawaii]

All, I am trying to built a fastest & lightest bike to go to work in San Francisco. The distance is about 10 US miles each way. My current electric bike weight 110lbs with 6 12v 12ah batteries on a 180w-250w motor & the maxium speed is only 12-15mph. Please advice. Thanks! A I-Zip with lithium batteries on a aluminum bike should do you fine at 18 to 20 mph if you don't mind a little noise.Depending on how much $ you want to spend or how much time you want to spend installing.You could just get a Jackel and use lead batteries.
http://www.greenspeed.us/currie_i-zip_scooter.htm

[fbagatelleblack]

All, I am trying to built a fastest & lightest bike to go to work in San Francisco. The distance is about 10 US miles each way. My current electric bike weight 110lbs with 6 12v 12ah batteries on a 180w-250w motor & the maxium speed is only 12-15mph. Please advice. Thanks!

This is the fastest one I know of:

http://burro-zvobikes.com/MarcusTentsolo.jpg

http://burro-zvobikes.com/testimonials.html

I'm not sure what his recent top speed is, but it's awfully darn fast.

- FBB

[Lowell_]

The official Bonneville record is 58.6mph, which for whatever reason(s) is rather underperforming for that bike. Given the approximately 4mph advantage due to the thinner air, that bike would probably pull 55mph at sea level. My Crystalyte X5 powered bike has done 57mph on flat ground at sea level...

http://www.greenspeed.us/machine-x_burro_bike.htm

[Robert C]

A I-Zip with lithium batteries on a aluminum bike should do you fine at 18 to 20 mph if you don't mind a little noise.Depending on how much $ you want to spend or how much time you want to spend installing.You could just get a Jackel and use lead batteries.
http://www.greenspeed.us/currie_i-zip_scooter.htm

The one in that link is no longer available. Which is fine seeing as I do not think it would meet the requirements for an electric assist bicycle in California. However, that same page has a link to a Bionix kit, which some of the people here seem to feel is a good package (seems a bit pricey to me).

[fbagatelleblack]

The official Bonneville record is 58.6mph, which for whatever reason(s) is rather underperforming for that bike. Given the approximately 4mph advantage due to the thinner air, that bike would probably pull 55mph at sea level. My Crystalyte X5 powered bike has done 57mph on flat ground at sea level...

http://www.greenspeed.us/machine-x_burro_bike.htm

Marcus had controller heating problems during his speed run. He just sent me e-mails on his latest project, which looks purdy cool:

http://electrobike.com/Pi2/Pi2.html

He's going to be at Bonneville again in the near future. Keep your eyes peeled!

- FBB

[Lowell_]

FBB: Thanks for the explanation. I knew that bike should be *much* faster than mine.

[BBDrive]

Niether of those "e-bikes" even HAVE pedals so they are just ringers in the wrong category as far as I can tell as they should be compared to electric motorcycles.

Personally I would much prefer a purpose built E-motorcycle than a bicycle with pegs...

For your commute you shouldn't need ANYWHERE near that weight in batteries, go NiCad, Nimh, or Mithium and you'll drop 75% of your weight, and then if you went with a BB/chain drive instead of a hub motor you would realize better efficiency on hills, check out the "Charger" bike.

[lyen]

The reason for me to carry 6 batteries is because the first set of 36v batteries (3 x 12v @ 12ah) ran out of juice at about 3 quarter the distance to the destination. Therefore, I have to carry another set of 3. I think you are right about the size & weight of the batteries are real heavy. They're about 60 LBS along. The bike is constructed with steel at 50 pounds with the hub motor. Do you think a Crystalyte 36-48V 25A brushed motor controller would make it go faster? It's current controller uses only 36V 12A.

[Lowell_]

The motor would certainly turn faster with more current, but you have to make sure the motor doesn't overheat. Can you post a pic of the hub?

[EbikeHawaii]

Niether of those "e-bikes" even HAVE pedals so they are just ringers in the wrong category as far as I can tell as they should be compared to electric motorcycles.

Personally I would much prefer a purpose built E-motorcycle than a bicycle with pegs...

For your commute you shouldn't need ANYWHERE near that weight in batteries, go NiCad, Nimh, or Mithium and you'll drop 75% of your weight, and then if you went with a BB/chain drive instead of a hub motor you would realize better efficiency on hills, check out the "Charger" bike.Put this motor on a ebike using a 200amp 48 volts at 160 amps contionus Sevcon controller for 5.7 Kw.the amprage for 5 minutes would be 120 amps at using 10ah Kokam battery cells on a 20 lb roadbike and you will get over 60 mph at 6500 motor rpms.You can buy 10 ah lithium RC packs at your favorite RC store that would weigh a total of 10 lbs. good for 30C discharge rates.. Change the controller and 200 peak amps Why not? Its too dam fast on a bicycle.It would only weigh 35 lbs. total to go 5 miles in 5 minutes.The lithium rockets may be bursting in air at the 5 mile mark.naaa that's only a 12 C discharge 200 amps would be 20 C peaks in which RC airplane nuts use every day at that.
The winding on this motor is from a stock wound $8. auto alternator stator that 1000s can be taken away for free at many junk yards.

[BroadwayJoe]

All, I am trying to built a fastest & lightest bike to go to work in San Francisco. The distance is about 10 US miles each way. My current electric bike weight 110lbs with 6 12v 12ah batteries on a 180w-250w motor & the maxium speed is only 12-15mph. Please advice. Thanks!

My speed ain't much better than that but my weight is less than 1/2 that with 16AH @ 24V NiMh - soon to be lithium which will knock me down another 5lbs or so. Oh yeah, my range is 25 miles easy with that AH/V configuration. What is it? Panasonic Pedelec - customized battery packs but otherwise stock alloy frame 26" wheels. Look for a now discontinued Giant Twist/Lite or find a Japanese market version (National) with the Panasonic drive. You won't be disappointed.

http://www.panabyc.co.jp/en/product_du.htm

[lyen]

Hell All! I originally purchased a Crystalyte 36-72V brushless controller & expected to put it to work with my DC motor with some tricks by simulate the brushless motor hall sensors acknowledgment. However, I could not simulate to the exact 60 degree electrical wave on the hall sensor input circuitry. EbikeHawaii (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=90245) was very helpful on some of his suggestions & other posts here on the forum. I appreciate the help from all of you guys with many potential ideas. Today, I have bought & received a Crystalyte 36-48V controller for brushed motor. I opened it up to verify the maximum voltage the controller can take. I did research on the rectifier TO-220 (Y2010DN) which can takes up to 100V and there are two MOSFETs (P75NF75) which can take up to 75V each. Therefore, it would take 60V (5 X 12V @ 12AH) SLA batteries I currently installed on my electric bike. In fact, I have temporary replaced my old 36V controller with the Crystalyte just now. I will let you guys know if I can speed with the heavy 110 pounder up and post some pictures of my bike for Lowell soon. Stay tune...

[Goatbiker]

Ref: Zyobikes.

Instead of running at Bonneville, in Utah, they should have crossed the border into Nevada where the HUMAN powered bicycle speed record is 81 mph . This is on a fully-faired streamliner, of course. Can you imagine how fast one of those could go with a properly set-up power assist?

(http://www.wisil.recumbents.com/wisil/speedruns2000/worlds-fastest-bicycle-2000.htm

Tom

[lyen]

Hello everyone! I am back with the results after I change my existing controller with the 48V controller running @ 60V. My first temporary attempt was very impressive even using only the alligator clips between the batteries & motor. However, I noticed the insulation alligator clips to the motors melts & glued together. I was lucky that I was able to make it home last Friday for that from work on a 10 miles run. Below are my results & thoughts:
1. The 180W DC motor @ 60V with 16" wheels can go up to 22.6MPH on flat pavement (I'm very impressed!)
2. Going over 28MPH downhill on a my purposely built folding ebike is very very dangerous. The reason I said that is because it feels unbalance and pot holes cause the bike to fall very easily. Also, the stem & handle bar shakes like crazy.
3. There's lots more dirt going onto my clothes especially my pants & my ebike.
4. I need a goggle to see clearly when going over 20MPH
5. Last Wednesday, there was a guy telling me to "Get the piece of sh!t off the road". Now this time there were truck drivers given me two thumbs up & one guy saids "That's a nice bike you have."
6. Mountain bike tires in 16" are not suitable to go high speed > 20MPH
7. V brake in the rear feel like a sponge at more than 20MPH
8. The headlight I bought from Bell seems like it needs to be adjusted in order for me to look further in less time. A brighter head light is also recommended at > 20MPH to really considered riding safely in total darkness.
9. I need to carry 1 36V charger which comes with the ebike and I need to buy another 24V charger for the extra batteries.
10. I can now by-pass the pedal assist sensors since the old controller is no longer in used.
11. Since the gear on the has only single speed, my legs cannot no longer keep up with the motor like before.
All in all, my 55 minutes commute has became a 35 commute. However, today I tried to put everything in its place permanently and did something stupid by removing the thermal tape between the aluminum case/heat sink and the rectifier and 2 MOSFETS. As soon as to turn it on I blew a fuse and damaged the controller. I replaced the fuse in the battery box and put the thermal tape back in its original place but unable to get the controller to turn to motor. I know the rectifier is still good because I still see the red LED on on the controller. I measure there is 63V on the motor output leads from the controller even without the throttle. So does anyone know if it is the MOSFET chips inside the controller are damaged or something else from the controller is damage?

[lyen]

BTW, here's the pictures of the bike I have.

http://www.geocities.com/lyen/Bike/LBB-001a.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/lyen/Bike/LBB-001b.JPG

[EvilV]

BTW, here's the pictures of the bike I have.

http://www.geocities.com/lyen/Bike/LBB-001a.JPG

That looks really neat. Many ebike solutions (being often of the nature of backyard prototypes) look like crap, even if they are technically interesting projects. Yours is aesthetically pleasing for sure.

I ride a non-assist 16 inch folder and you're right - twenty miles an hour plus gets dicey. The steering is so quick anyway on my 16 incher that you need to keep alert at 13 mph, let alone 28. I have done 31 downhill on it, but the road was smooth. As for doing it at night..... I hope you have good insurance for your dependents.

[meb]

The reason for me to carry 6 batteries is because the first set of 36v batteries (3 x 12v @ 12ah) ran out of juice at about 3 quarter the distance to the destination. Therefore, I have to carry another set of 3. I think you are right about the size & weight of the batteries are real heavy. They're about 60 LBS along. The bike is constructed with steel at 50 pounds with the hub motor. Do you think a Crystalyte 36-48V 25A brushed motor controller would make it go faster? It's current controller uses only 36V 12A.

The Crystallite would definitely be faster than a 250W unit. The downside is it will achieve that speed drawing more power.

[The7]

1. The 180W DC motor @ 60V with 16" wheels can go up to 22.6MPH on flat pavement (I'm very impressed!)

Great. Very similar speed on flat as my AL1020 with 36V battery.
See my post: My first ebike -Schwinn Foldable AL1020
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=323269


11. Since the gear on the has only single speed, my legs cannot no longer keep up with the motor like before.

Same as my AL1020.


However, today I tried to put everything in its place permanently and did something stupid by removing the thermal tape between the aluminum case/heat sink and the rectifier and 2 MOSFETS. As soon as to turn it on I blew a fuse and damaged the controller. I replaced the fuse in the battery box and put the thermal tape back in its original place but unable to get the controller to turn to motor. I know the rectifier is still good because I still see the red LED on on the controller. I measure there is 63V on the motor output leads from the controller even without the throttle. So does anyone know if it is the MOSFET chips inside the controller are damaged or something else from the controller is damage?

Bad news. Sounds that the FETs are damaged.

[lyen]

Dear The7, I was one of the reader who actually did tons of research from your post & others prior I made my purchase for the Crystalyte controller. I admire your awesome upgrade of your bike. It's very impressive to me for us with smaller 16" or less wheelies. In fact, I have purchase 4 FETS today. 2 are the same kind (P75NF75 for 75V) as what is currently in the controller and the other 2 are (P80NF10 for 100V) for experienmental upgrade to 72V. I will let you guys know how it goes wether if I can get it fixed, upgrade or not. Converting my turtle to a rabbit is not an easy task but fun. :)

[EvilV]

Dear The7, I was one of the reader who actually did tons of research from your post & others prior I made my purchase for the Crystalyte controller. I admire your awesome upgrade of your bike. It's very impressive to me for us with smaller 16" or less wheelies. In fact, I have purchase 4 FETS today. 2 are the same kind (P75NF75 for 75V) as what is currently in the controller and the other 2 are (P80NF10 for 100V) for experienmental upgrade to 72V. I will let you guys know how it goes wether if I can get it fixed, upgrade or not. Converting my turtle to a rabbit is not an easy task but fun. :)

I wonder at what point the 200 watt motor will let go?

Maybe they are rated for wattage at the voltage supplied by the whole kit, and in fact the motor is conservatively powered with the supplied batteries / controller. It will be interesting to see how things develop as you put some hours onto the thing. There are stacks of ebikes and kits available here in the UK at rather puny ratings like 200 / 250 watts to comply with the regulations. They usually come with a poor lead acid battery at something like 24 volts. After electrical meltdowns brought on by putting up the voltage, my concern would be that the drive mechanisms might not take the extra power for too long. Some have nylon gears and such that might not do well with more than gnat power.

[EbikeHawaii]

I wonder at what point the 200 watt motor will let go?

Maybe they are rated for wattage at the voltage supplied by the whole kit, and in fact the motor is conservatively powered with the supplied batteries / controller. It will be interesting to see how things develop as you put some hours onto the thing. There are stacks of ebikes and kits available here in the UK at rather puny ratings like 200 / 250 watts to comply with the regulations. They usually come with a poor lead acid battery at something like 24 volts. After electrical meltdowns brought on by putting up the voltage, my concern would be that the drive mechanisms might not take the extra power for too long. Some have nylon gears and such that might not do well with more than gnat power.Your pretty much on tract.The larger rated wattage systems usually hold up longer using them within there rated specs and below.The larger motors rated above 750 watts may be more efficient in over all use if you plan on not pedaling most of the time and in light uses may not be as efficient as some smaller motors of the same power because of extra weight to spin up to speed.It really depends on the OVERall efficiency at all rpms , and load that you use for each motor keeping close to the constant wattage rating.

[The7]

BTW, here's the pictures of the bike I have.

http://www.geocities.com/lyen/Bike/LBB-001a.JPG


How is your foldable ebike now?

[EbikeHawaii]

How is your foldable ebike now? That bike has a nice swingarm space for a 5 lb 1500 watt motor.These bikes are also two peace folders by taking out two pins and disconnectinga connector plug.How much does your nice looking folder weigh with the hub motor and what voltage and ahs are your batteries? Take the Red Frame that's made in India for $20. have them make a few simple changes to incorerate the motor and the batty packs that ade going to be used, make it all in aluminum and you have $25. motor mount and ebike that a dealer can add your own slected components to.

[lyen]

[quote]Dear The7 & EbikeHawaii (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=90245), I have finally received my new Crystalyte brushed 48V 25A DC controller last Friday. I have connected everything together today and drove to bike to work with 5 x 12V 12AH SLA batteries at 60V. It took me 40 minutes to go 10 miles to work. At the last 2 miles, the voltage drops rapidly along with reduce speed due to 10% grade steep hill at the last 3 miles. The voltage dropped all the way to around 37V. I'm assuming it just ran out of juice because the bike with the batteries are already 100LBS (pound) + 170LBS of me. As soon as I arrived at work, I tried to feel how hot the motor is and it feels like a freshy fried pancake at 75-80 degree Cecilius. I have also noticed some knocking feel from the motor. I am hoping it is cause by the heat protection circuitry from the motor. I will trying to do more research when I drive the bike home in the next 6 hours. I think the hub motor heats up because it did not have enough power to go up hill even with 60V. The motor is a 180W-250W DC brush motor. The other two things had happened were the bike had 2 broken spokes due to high speed with 16" wheelies + uneven pavement in San Francisco, and the rear light felt off the ground due to bumps & got ran oven by a truck behind me. I was able to pick up the batteries & the circuit board of the bike light still works. Anyway, this is my first electric bike and I have learned so much out of it in a month. I will continue to ride the bike to work until the motor dies. In the meantime, I am planning to buy a Dahon Cadenza and put a X5 hub motor in the rear. The funny thing to me is the bike & the motor weights about the same. So do you guys think it is feasible or better go with the 400 series motor(s)? There are hundreds of hill here in San Francisco by the way. :)

[Lowell_]

The X5 is capable of getting you up any of the hills in SF. Even with heavy NiMH batteries, my X5 outperforms any ebike, with the exception of high wattage Etek type setups. For your 10 mile commute, an X5 powered Cadenza sounds like a good solution.

[EbikeHawaii]

The X5 is capable of getting you up any of the hills in SF. Even with heavy NiMH batteries, my X5 outperforms any ebike, with the exception of high wattage Etek type setups. For your 10 mile commute, an X5 powered Cadenza sounds like a good solution.
A brushed MY 1020 motor on a full suspension frame like this at 48 volts would do any chore and probably just as efficient and perform a lot better in handeling..

[Lowell_]

A brushed MY 1020 motor on a full suspension frame like this at 48 volts would do any chore and probably just as efficient and perform a lot better in handeling..

I think the OP is planning to buy a folding bike, and given that the Cadenza has neither front or rear suspension, smooth on-road use is probably all it will see.

How much power can the MY1020 put out reliably?

[EbikeHawaii]

I think the OP is planning to buy a folding bike, and given that the Cadenza has neither front or rear suspension, smooth on-road use is probably all it will see.

How much power can the MY1020 put out reliably? What they are rated at like most motors.

[Jaleel Johanson]

I think Lowell was wondering about the truth, not your typical BS.

[EbikeHawaii]

I think Lowell was wondering about the truth, not your typical BS. If it is BS to you ignore it and listen to how Lowell gets magic figures out of a 500 watt rated motor.

[Lowell_]

There's nothing magic about well documented facts. The X5's power has been tested and validated by many happy owners, unlike your system where people apparently have to take your word for the validity of the numbers.

[EbikeHawaii]

There's nothing magic about well documented facts. The X5's power has been tested and validated by many happy owners, unlike your system where people apparently have to take your word for the validity of the numbers. what makes your numbers gold? The simple facts that can be validated at any time for anyones proof if it ment anything. If it was imporant others would have tried to to climb the worlds steepest road to 10,005 ft. with a electric vehicle, but they havn't yet.... Who really cares what you or I think? LOL

[lyen]

Hello All, I have arrived home from work with my electric bike. I could barely made it home because the spokes kept broken. There're 8 broken spokes as of now & I need to take the bike to a shop for repair. Enclosed are more pictures of my modified bike. The first picture shown is a tool box I used to two the 2 extra batteries to make it run @ 60V.
http://geocities.com/lyen/Bike/01.JPG
http://geocities.com/lyen/Bike/02.JPG
http://geocities.com/lyen/Bike/03.JPG
http://geocities.com/lyen/Bike/04.JPG
http://geocities.com/lyen/Bike/05.JPG

[Lowell_]

Your spokes are probably too loose, which is why they're breaking at the bends. If you do relace the wheel, spoke washers will help prevent movement in that area. Did you notice any creaking or ticking noises before the first one broke? If so, that's definitely a sign that one or more were loose.

[lyen]

Lowell, you are right 100% right. The spokes were loose and produces creaking noise. I will bring the wheel to a bike shop tomorrow and hopefully they can re-lace the new spokes for me. :)

[Lowell_]

With some new, properly tensioned spokes you'll probably find the bike handles a little better due to a stiffer wheel. Can't wait to see your Dahon/X5 build...