Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - My bike is sick :(

fc! That was a very cool post. Thank you! I never even thought of lubing my fender and water bolts!


No problem. I prefer to work on my own bikes and have learned a few things over the years. Getting greasy is a great way to learn! :D

And don't lube the fender and water bolts, use locktite on them. Otherwise when you reach down for your water bottle, it may not be there ;)

As always, a great resource is Sheldon Brown's articles: http://sheldonbrown.com/articles.html

:):)

I would* have lubed those things. I'm more afraid of things getting stuck on than loosening up. Every "story" I've read about lock-tite involves a blow torch at the end...

i 2 have annoying probs recently with a creaking noise coming from my bars when i pull on them climbing hills. iv tightend the quill- wedge bolt and the bolt holding the bars to the stem - has made no difference :(
Is that correct (from an earlier post here) that ur quill wedge should b thoroughly greased? i wouldv thought that would have made it slip under pressure? If this (greasing) is correct it may b the answer as this has only started after 4 years (no grease applied by me to the stem!) but id like sum1 elses 2nd opinion :)

Yes, grease it.the grease will prevent corrosion(especially with steel) and keeps parts from seizing up. Grease all parts that fit into another,stem,seatpost,bolts,anything but brake pads. that will keep your bike nice and quiet.

Yes, grease it.the grease will prevent corrosion(especially with steel) and keeps parts from seizing up. Grease all parts that fit into another,stem,seatpost,bolts,anything but brake pads. that will keep your bike nice and quiet.

The exception to this rule is carbon seatposts. If you grease a carbon seatpost it will soak in the grease and you seatcollar will never be able to keep it from sliding down. I doubt anyone in this forum is on a carbon post but none the less.

Solveg-
Don't get overly concerned if someone doesn't use a torque wrench. When you are used to torquing bolts on a regular basis, you really do get a feel for x ft-lbs. of torque. There is also the thing called experience.
Do you exactly measure the amount of herbs & spices when you cook, or do you use what works?
Now if a LBS didn't HAVE a torque wrench, I'd be concerned. You do need to "test yourself" once in a while.

Solveg-
Don't get overly concerned if someone doesn't use a torque wrench. When you are used to torquing bolts on a regular basis, you really do get a feel for x ft-lbs. of torque. There is also the thing called experience.
Do you exactly measure the amount of herbs & spices when you cook, or do you use what works?
Now if a LBS didn't HAVE a torque wrench, I'd be concerned. You do need to "test yourself" once in a while.


Thanks for telling me that. Because I really like* the guys at my LBS, but this had me worried.

Thanks for telling me that. Because I really like* the guys at my LBS, but this had me worried.

Yep, now if you have a CF frame and they want to not use the torque wrench.....that's a different story! Overtorque a bolt on a CF frame and you've just ruined a dropout, or a CF handlebar, or CF Seatpost, or CF Crankarm......and so on!

The mechanics in the group can better comment on this but there is absolutely no reason or excuse for creaky handlebars. I can't imagine why they would be making noise. I've had other things creak but never handlebars. I like to work on my own bikes, but I do only the normal maintenance stuff like cleaning etc. I've learned that it does take time and skill to learn how to adjust derailleurs, replace cables, true wheels and then there are all the specific tools for those tasks. I have some (my favorite - a chain whip!) but to get a good variety it takes money. So better for me to find a good bike shop and trust their expertise.

Now that being say, although a bike is a bike, I do believe there are specific bikes for specific tasks. I have a road bike, a mountain bike (in fact 2 - a hardtail and flly) and a cycle-cross (for varied trail). If you never see yourself going off-road, don't bother with a mountin bike but I would seriously consider, on your next upgrade getting a road bike. Trust me it can take the "punishment" of a heavier rider. I have a beautiful steel (Reynolds 853) bike. I've upgraded the components and recently had a pair of Chris King wheels built for me and my large frame. The bike just got me through 500 miles in Montana, no probems and no creaks!

:):)

I would* have lubed those things. I'm more afraid of things getting stuck on than loosening up. Every "story" I've read about lock-tite involves a blow torch at the end...
I regularly use blue loctite on the radio control boats that I race. Many of the parts being held on by a loctited bolt are removed or adjusted on a regular basis. I've had no trouble removing them.

Most stuff on a bike doesn't seem that hard with a little guidance. I decided to strip an old Schwinn down to the frame and rebuild it back up (replaced cables, lubed, adjusted, painted, etc). It wasn't that hard. My HardRock might be a little tougher...do mostly to the shifters, I imagine, but I would not have any concerns about doing routine adjustments to it now.

One thing that is still a mystery to me is wheel truing but I will figure that out eventually on the Schwinn as it needs the rear wheel trued. If I mess it up too bad, the LBS will do it for less than $20. lol

Oh, and there are different grades of Loctite. I think the Blue stuff is removable with tools. The others are the ones that end up with a rounded off bolts and screws, swearing and yelling, and eventually a blow torch. lol

I've also been known to use a little nail polish on the threads of a bolt or screw. Haven't had a problem that needed it on a bike though.