My bike is sick :(

[BeckyW]

I had to leave it at my LBS today for repairs. I'm really surprised/shocked at my reaction to this.. it's like the empty place in my garage is a hole in my heart.... *dramatic sniffling* They said they'd try to have it ready for me by Monday, but I wouldn't be surprised if they have to order some parts and it takes longer than that.

During my ride yesterday, the Pedals started making knocking, then grinding sounds and the handlebars started creaking loudly, and half the time when I shift down into the "granny gear," even if I do it correctly and carefully, my chain pops off... I have a possibly irrational fear that my bike just won't stand up to me riding it, and that it's going to be one thing after another, every hundred miles or so.

I'm a little concerned that my LBS won't suggest good solutions for someone of my size, if parts need replacing. My wheels have been OK since they straightened them, even after hitting some pretty good bumps at pretty high speeds. But is it possible that standard handlebars and pedals just aren't strong enough? Or are these problems normal as a bike gets broken in, and things just need to be tightened up?

Suggestions are welcome, and I'll let you know what happens when the LBS calls to let me know what they think needs to be done.

[VTRoadie]

Time to learn how to work on your bike yourself? The chain popping off is a simple 30 second adjustment (nothings broken). As for the creaking, likely something is loose and needed to be tightened. I don't know what would cause a creaking handle bar (other than they are loose.. but that would only be over bumps).

[BeckyW]

Time to learn how to work on your bike yourself? The chain popping off is a simple 30 second adjustment (nothings broken). As for the creaking, likely something is loose and needed to be tightened. I don't know what would cause a creaking handle bar (other than they are loose.. but that would only be over bumps).

I've been thinking along those same lines - that it is time to learn to fix my own bike. So I'll add another question... is a comfort bike more like a road bike or a mountain bike? I've heard the "Zinn" repair books are good, but don't know which one to get.

[JoeMetal]

Yesterday on my ride home (which was about 11 miles) I heard creaking as well. So for the last half of the ride all I could think was how the bike might not be standing up to my weight very well. When I got home though, I realized that the seat bracket was a little off, so now it's fixed. I understand your thoughts though.

[Tom Stormcrowe]

Actually, a bike is a bike! Mountain, road, hybrid, they're all basically the same in basic design. Parts are similar enough that there is a lot of crossover. Given you ride a more or less Hybrid, that's the route I'd go and when you get to riding a road bike, you'll have enough basic knowledge to understand the differences and figure out how to address them (There isn't that much, going either way, though from Hybrid to road or hybrid to Mountain, maintenance wise).

[bautieri]

Can't say I have any relevant information to share with you, but I can say that I feel for you as my bike is also currently in for surgery at the LBS...also expecting to be done by Monday. I'm really bummed cause I wanted to ride this weekend, but oh well. It would seem to me as though your rear derailleur is out of alignment if its overthrowing granny. Its adjusted by the two little screws in the back of the derailleur. I don’t want to go giving advice on wrenching though, to new to it myself (at least regarding bicycles).

Guess I'll have to console myself with my other toys and a session of Budweiser therapy. Maybe if I get really ambitious I'll rebuild the carbs in the Honda. Your welcome to join me in therapy you wish.

[Caincando1]

I think bikes are a lot tougher than people think. I started at 350lbs and never had any problems with my navigator and now at 310 I even use if for light off road use and it doesn't break. So far I only have 150 miles on the road bike, but it to hold up fine. I'm even beating on it pretty hard learing to climb while standing. I also stand and pound it hard on all my take off, which is usually 10-12 a ride.

More than likey your bike is just out of adjustment.

[UtRacerDad]

I had to leave it at my LBS today for repairs. I'm really surprised/shocked at my reaction to this.. it's like the empty place in my garage is a hole in my heart.... *dramatic sniffling* They said they'd try to have it ready for me by Monday, but I wouldn't be surprised if they have to order some parts and it takes longer than that.

I had a GF Sugar (loved the bike) but the rear triangle had problems and I cracked it (nothing to do with weight, it was a very common problem), bike was out of commission for nearly 3 weeks, it was during that time that I decided that I needed a backup, so I got my second bike (built it actually) a hybrid commuter. Now that my road bike has been in the shop for 2 weeks (defective crank getting replaced under warranty) I'm still glad I have my hybrid.

Sadly as it stands right now I have 3 bikes plus a loaner that I let the kids ride around the neighborhood, plus all of their bikes, the garage looks like a LBS :) I think all told we have 12 bikes, ranging from a beach cruiser to some really high end mountain bikes, and there are only 4 of us that ride, and it looks like my daughter is going to end up with a tandem beach cruiser ( I have no idea were that one is going to go) for some extra work that she is doing for the shop she works at.

[Redhouse]

Wow sorry to hear about your bike, I just went through the same thing this last week, it sucks! Last week I was on my ride and about 10 miles away from home the cable the holds the gears snapped. I noticed a few days before they were getting noisier. I took the bike in and they fixed it and went and adjusted everything else and said it's normal wear and tear, it's only a 5 month old bike.

[mrbubl]

Bikes are like cars, if you have the right tools everything can go pretty smooth. Bikes are not like cars in that they are pretty simple to work on and with the right information comes a certain amount of pride.

There are some excellent online sources of repair information and education too above the old this is how to change a tire stuff.

parktools.com has a great online help and as always, capt bike sheldonbrown.com has some of the best stuff.

Jump in, get dirty and have fun!

[arrasmithf]

start at your local library. They usually have a few maintenance manuals in stock. go for the newest one you can find. There are some specialized tools you may need(which you can get cheaply at nashbar), but I've found nothing too difficult(maintenance-wise). My philosophy is , if its already broken, you cant do too much more damage, and if you get nervous, you can always take it to the LBS.

[Tom Stormcrowe]

Here are some resource sites for you that are FREE!:D
http://www.bitrot.de/bbook_intro.html
http://www.parktool.com/repair/

Good info on both sites!

[KingTermite]

It's rough when your bike is sick....I had that problem until I got my second bike. :D

I doubt its a weight issue. Comfort bikes (like my 1st bike) are kinda low-end in the bike spectrum so there tends to be lower-end components on them. Could just be lower end components. I don't know, for sure, that's the issue, but if it is, it might be worth replacing thing, when they break, with higher-end stuff.

[KingTermite]

Here are some resource sites for you that are FREE!:D
http://www.bitrot.de/bbook_intro.html
http://www.parktool.com/repair/

Good info on both sites!

Don't forget http://sheldonbrown.com/home.html ;):D

[solveg]

I'm really gentle on bikes-- I spin up hills, I shift carefully, etc.

Even so, my Atlantis (about as rugged a bike as you could want) already has to go in for repair.

I felt a tiny little knock in one of the pedals. Barely noticeable, but it was irritating. I thought it was a loose pedal, and I started reading up on how to fix it. My LBS guy is helping me learn to wrench (he called me "grasshopper" the last time I saw him) so I sent him a list with 5 questions to make sure I understood what I learned...

Yup, 5 questions about tightening a pedal.

He wrote back and said it sounded like the Bottom Bracket was loose, and I should bring it in. (But he also answered my questions, and I was surprised by the answers)

I looked up BB in all the sources you guys mentioned, and sure enough, that's probably going to be it. I went to my maintenance class last night and we learned "tightening bottom bracket" My Atlantis was up north, so I couldn't bring it. Anyway, after he got done showing us the tools and demonstrating, I said, "OK, so this procedure takes about 6 expensive tools and it's really easy to totally destroy your crankset ($$$)...right?" He laughed, and said, "Yes."

Wrote back to my LBS guy and asked if I could still ride the bike, since the knock was so slight. (if not, I'll have to bring the city bike up north)

He said, "It should be OK, but I'd take it easy, no hills and try not to put pressure on the pedal"

Now, I can't emphasize enough how small this problem is and how heavy and sturdy my bike is! And it would be a risk to ride it. Wow.

Now, I have a really low end cruiser I got when I first started biking with my dog (a Raleigh Retroglide). I took it out to sell it the other day, and the brakes were frozen, the gears won't shift, etc. This bike has less than 100 miles on it, probably.

Now, My Bridgestone 200 I put almost 5000 miles on and only brought it to the LBS in the spring and never even had a flat with it.

I don't know what the moral of my story is, except

A. The Retroglide was cheap enough to break itself just sitting in the garage for 3 years, although I suppose B (below) could apply to it, too. But I also think that cheaper bikes get put together with less skill, sometimes, so that's another reason to learn the basic stuff about a bike...

B. The Atlantis is a new bike and I've had a series of derailleur and other things that needed adjustment before I did damage to it. I think it's just a new bike breaking in. She's been at the shop 3 times now in about 6 weeks. Things were stretching and settling and things that were loose were showing it.

C. Once you get a bike going and do regular lubing, it can* be rock solid, I suppose.

[edbikebabe]

Your bike is tougher than you think & will be fine. You will be riding again in no time!

Is there a bike co-op near you? I know where I live there is a shop with all the tools & people to help you out. Maybe you could find a class at a bike shop/outdoor center. Or better yet, find a friend who knows stuff (and has tools) and learn from them.

Bikes really aren't that complicated, and it is nice to be able to fix most things yourself.

[Bill Kapaun]

The fact you have BOTH "knocking in the pedals" AND shifting problems, leads me to believe the bottom bracket (where the crank bearings are) is "messed up".
If it's any consolation, that SHOULDN'T happen on a relatively new bike. Hopefully, they'll fix everything under warranty??
Any time you hear strange noises like that, head for home and "baby" it. You might be able to repair things with a simple adjustment, rather than damaging components by continued use.
It is strange that the handlebars started making noise at the same time??? Maybe the noise just "transmitted" through the frame and sounded like that??

[BeckyW]

Thanks for all the great resources and reassurance. It's good to know that, more than likely, once all the kinks are worked out (and necessary components upgraded), my bike will be ok! I do think I'm going to keep my eyes open for a "spare bike" from Craigslist or something, though.

I've been browsing Sheldon Brown's site for the past few weeks - there's a LOT of good information there! Some of it is a bit over my head, or needs supplementing with "Idiot's Guide" type stuff - thanks for the other links. And I know I should use the public library... but I always end up with overdue fines, and have finally decided I'm better off just buying my own books... :rolleyes:

I don't know of any workshops or clinics around here, but it wouldn't surprise me if they exist. I'll ask around.

Solveg, from what I read on Sheldon's site, it wouldn't surprise me if my bottom bracket is loose. I hope I haven't damaged it.

So anyway, I'll use the weekend to take care of some other things, take the dog for a couple of nice long walks (she's been awfully neglected since I got the bike!), and do some strength/core training that I've been a little sloppy about. Then hopefully jump back into bike training next week feeling strong and rested, and with a healthy bike!

[BeckyW]

The fact you have BOTH "knocking in the pedals" AND shifting problems, leads me to believe the bottom bracket (where the crank bearings are) is "messed up".
If it's any consolation, that SHOULDN'T happen on a relatively new bike. Hopefully, they'll fix everything under warranty??
Any time you hear strange noises like that, head for home and "baby" it. You might be able to repair things with a simple adjustment, rather than damaging components by continued use.
It is strange that the handlebars started making noise at the same time??? Maybe the noise just "transmitted" through the frame and sounded like that??

The handlebars have been a bit creaky ever since I got the bike - I thought it was normal, but it suddenly got a lot louder on my last ride. I push on them pretty hard - do a bit of the side-to-side thing going up hills, even though I'm not lifted all the way out of my seat.

As for whether it's covered under the warranty - it had better be! The bike's only 2 months old, and only has about 100 miles on it. We'll see what they say... maybe they'll give me a deal on upgrades. :)

[solveg]

I don't have shifting problems now... that was just from the chain stretching, which I guess it will do in the beginning....

[Terrierman]

I had problems from day two with the factory stem on my Navigator. Creaked and popped all the time. LBS replaced it under warranty with an aftermarket ZOOM stem. Problem solved. Stems and bars should not creak and pop when they are tight.

+1 on suspecting BB problems.

Shifting problems and losing the chain can also indicate a chain that is too long. Ask them to make sure it is the correct length as long as they have it in.

[Winter76]

My bike had some growing pains, and needed a new crank set and bottom bracket, thank goodness for warranties!

[solveg]

Wow, Becky. I was just digging around in AR Craig's List, and it's really slim pickings down there. There are very few bikes, and the ones they have are expensive.

How tall are you? You might have to come up to ride Mille Lacs just to go home with a bike! How far are you willing to drive for a second bike? You might want to make friends with the bike store and have them keep an eye open for you, unless they're a big used bike dealer. Check the bulletin board at your loca sports shop (Do you have REI there?) or even the paper. Garage sales. Clearly people aren't using Craig's List down there.

[BeckyW]

Sounds like bad bottom brackets are common enough, then... I still haven't heard anything from LBS :/

solveg - I'm 5'11", and thinking a mens' bike may be the way to go, for a used bike. I'm not likely to find a women's one that fits me that's not custom made (the one I have is a little small, I think). It actually has crossed my mind to check out Minneapolis/St Paul Craigslist a week or so before Mille Lacs.. lol. Not sure how I'd get a 2nd bike home, though. Fayetteville Craigslist is just starting to take off - CL didn't even list this town until about a year ago, for some reason. It's not nearly as big a metro area as the twin cities - only about 400,000 people total here. We don't have REI... I hadn't thought of checking the paper... and I don't want one bad enough yet to go garage-sale hunting!

[solveg]

2 weeks before you get here is useless. The good ones are gone same day. But if you get up here, look while you're here. I can bring it down in my trailer when I go to Kansas, and we can work it out from there.

There's a lovely free Raleigh right now, looks like your size, not sure which make, but it's cross town and I'm not driving anywhere in this post-bridge collapse traffic.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/bik/387997436.html

[BeckyW]

oh WOW... just had a look at all the listings there. I WISH my CL was like that! *drooling* Then again.. maybe it's good that it's not...

Thanks for the advice - and the offer to drive the bike down to Kansas, when you come, if it comes to that!

[MikeR]

But is it possible that standard handlebars and pedals just aren't strong enough? Or are these problems normal as a bike gets broken in, and things just need to be tightened up?Becky, I know you weigh less than I do. I started riding at 320 lbs and I'm at 250 now. I went through some wheels but all the rest of my 3 bikes held up just fine (with normal maintenance) after 13,000 miles.
Your handle bars and pedals probably just need a lube and tightening. The derailleur is a normal, minor adjustment. I don't know how old your bike is but your LBS should do a tune up about once a year.

One more thing about missing your baby. Do that enough and you will start to understand why I have 3 bikes. :) Keep you eyes open for a nice cheep used bike for a second stead.

[BeckyW]

Mike, I WISH I weighed less than you! Getting there, slowly.

[MikeR]

Mike, I WISH I weighed less than you! Getting there, slowly.Well keep up the good work. I still think that your bike is OK. It's the wheels that go.

[brodie]

dont forget to try your local thrift stores and,goodwills. you may be able to find yourself a good backup bike.

[Wogsterca]

I've been thinking along those same lines - that it is time to learn to fix my own bike. So I'll add another question... is a comfort bike more like a road bike or a mountain bike? I've heard the "Zinn" repair books are good, but don't know which one to get.

The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance and Repair for Road and Mountain Bikes, by Todd Downs is another book, that covers both road and mountain bikes, and it's a reasonably priced book. That and a couple of websites Park Tools (http://www.parktools.com) and Sheldon Brown (http://sheldonbrown.com) will provide enough information to get you started. I usually read up what Sheldon and Park Tools have to say, and then take the book out to the garage while doing a repair. Some times, bicycle clubs, bike shops and school districts or city recreation departments will hold bicycle repair courses, and one of these can be very handy. If you don't always learn by reading alone.

Absolutely critical, is puncture (flat tire) repair. Punctures usually occur when it's cold, wet, dark your cell phone battery just died, your tired and hungry, and just want to get where your going. To deal with a puncture you want three things, tire levers, a spare tube or patches and a compressed gas delivery system. I prefer a pump as a compressed gas delivery system, because a pumps capacity to deliver compressed air is only dependant on the users capacity to pump it, alternatives like CO² mean you need to carry a number of cartridges, and you then need somewhere to put them. Plus you need somewhere to put the empty ones. I usually carry a spare tube or two, one on shorter rides, two on longer (over 40km/25 miles). If I get a puncture, I swap tubes, it's faster, then repair the tube at my earliest convenience, I usually keep a couple of extras even, at home, in the box, although the spares on the bike usually do not have the boxes, because it takes up less space. I keep the boxes though, when a tube has been repaired, it goes in a box, on the shelf in the garage, at the bottom of the pile. when it gets back to the top, it goes back into service.

If you have never done a puncture repair, then your best bet, is to try it several times, until your familiar with the technique, when it's warm, dry, and light out. After you have done one, 5 or 6 times, you stop needing to think about the steps. Now after a week or so, do it again a couple of times, now 3 months later when it's cold, wet, dark out, and you get a puncture, after saying Oh S**t a couple of times (that's the first step, in puncture repair, I think:rolleyes:). You get off, and dig out your tools, and fix the flat without really thinking about it, and go on your way, while the SUV who hit the other nail, is still trying to get Service on their cell phone.:D

Sorry for the long post, now I need to go to work, I owe, I owe so off to work I go......

[The Historian]

I had problems from day two with the factory stem on my Navigator. Creaked and popped all the time. LBS replaced it under warranty with an aftermarket ZOOM stem. Problem solved. Stems and bars should not creak and pop when they are tight.

+1 on suspecting BB problems.

Shifting problems and losing the chain can also indicate a chain that is too long. Ask them to make sure it is the correct length as long as they have it in.

The stem is probably coming loose because she has a death grip on the bars. Just a tightening is in order, I think.

Hmm, still in the first 100 miles? It's time to have it go into the shop anyway for a tune-up.

[MikeR]

I don't have shifting problems now... that was just from the chain stretching, which I guess it will do in the beginning....No the chain did not stretch - the shifter cable stretched. Cables will stretch a little when they are new. Chains will not. A slight difference in he length of a chain has no effect on shifting. A slight difference in the length of the shifter cable will effect shifting.

Chains stretch as they wear but it takes a long time. If they stretch a little to much then they are worn out.

[solveg]

Duh! RIGHT! Sorry. I'm just learning all this, so it all kind of gets jumbled in my mind. There's a lot of terminology and concepts to remember.

[BeckyW]

...Absolutely critical, is puncture (flat tire) repair.

Fortunately, THAT I know how to do. Nice folks at LBS gave me a lesson and let me practice there, and now I carry all the necessary tools with me always.

Thanks for the book recommendation. It sounds like a good one.

[Bill Kapaun]

Any news of what was wrong with the bike?
Curious mind(s) want to......

[Halthane]

+ 1 to the cable stretch thought
and +1000 to reading through sheldon's website and the parktool website, maybe even just lurk a little in the mechanics forum. They can be opinionated, and a little belligerent at times, but even "dumb" questions will get good honest answers, you might get some harsh responses from time to time, but there are many mechanics there (Captain Bike himself for example) who have a deep interest in helping people learn to ride, maintain and enjoy cycling.

Sheldon's website is my first resource when I have questions, not books, not the forums, though they are useful, a little search there will often yield good answers.

[jaxgtr]

Sound like it's time to get a 2nd bike.. yea that's the ticket. Time for a weather beater bike. That's what I told my wife my 7300 was becoming when I bought my Allez.:D

[MikeR]

Duh! RIGHT! Sorry. I'm just learning all this, so it all kind of gets jumbled in my mind. There's a lot of terminology and concepts to remember.No problem - that's what we old geezers are here for. :)

[ang1sgt]

Becky,

Another source can be the Park Tools site. They list tips hints and have detailed write ups with lits of the tools needed for each job. Very handy for a novice to a full wrench guy.

Bottom Brackets when they start to feel bad or are clicking need to be replaced. Sometimes the clip is a loose retainer cup and that can be tightened. For me, an upgrade is usually in order. I would rather spend $40-50 on the BB and get a better one than keep the $10-15 one they put in most entry level bikes. The only bike I own with a stock BB is my Recumbent and that is due to my inability to STAND on the pedals like my upright bikes.

Creaking on handle bars is usually a bike build problem on a new bike. Some of the stems are really flexible and if they are not lubed correctly, they will creak. If they are a conventional stem and not an Ahead system, the most likely culprit is the stem quill or wedge. The wedge should have been slathered with grease and the steerer tube should have some brushed into it also.

I hope this helps.

[solveg]

Update: took my bike in and it was the bolt that holds the pedal to the crank. I forget the name of it. Anyway, he tightened it and it was great. He said it's one of those things you should check every couple hundred miles, because if it gets loose you can screw up your crank.

[BeckyW]

That is so cool, how much you're learning. I'm going to have to see if I can find one of those clinics around here.

As far as my own bike, it was, as everyone guessed, a loose bottom bracket. They fixed it, it seemed great, then after about 10-12 miles, I started hearing/feeling a slight ticking in one of the pedals, so I brought it back, and they tightened it again... I haven't been on it since, but I hope it's fixed for real this time.

[epcolt]

The Park Tools Big Blue Book of bike repair is a very good reference and repair guide. If you don't do the repairs yourself you can havesome idea of what they are doing to your ride

[solveg]

The Park Tools Big Blue Book of bike repair is a very good reference and repair guide. If you don't do the repairs yourself you can havesome idea of what they are doing to your ride


I know this is a highly regarded book, but I tried to use it for two* things and it failed dismally.

The first was lubing my bike. I wanted to know where to lube, because I vaguely remember reading something somewhere about how you shouldn't lube "on the flats", and I don't know what that means. The big blue book just said, "lube where necessary." or something similar. No more details.

Then, I wanted to know how to adjust a saddle. It talked about one bolt saddles and two bolt saddles, but not how to adjust them. I understood I tightened and loosened screws, but they were both tight... didn't know to loosen one first so the other could tighten more.

Plus, my hex bolts seem to be righty-loosy, lefty-tighty.... that confuses me.

I guess those things were too basic for even the big blue book.

[solveg]

So I did some searching here on the board about crank bolts, and found out some stuff everyone should be aware of.

Apparently, it's not uncommon for crank bolts to become loose in the first couple hundred miles. It's one of the biggest reasons people ruin their cranks (esp their left one)... they feel a little knock in it, but need to ride it home (can be as little as an easy 5 miles) and they've already rounded the bolt a little.

Then what happens is that it keeps coming loose periodically. They take it to the bike shop, and they apply too much pressure, trying to get it to stay on. This cracks something.

The mechanics forum said the only way to get the right crank tightness is with an automotive socket wrench. Apparently, although there is a specified torque crank bolts, people generally use just a little hex wrench anyway, and there's no way it can get tight enough.

So, since so many people are buying new bikes on this forum, I just wanted to let you know that after a couple hundred miles, bring it back to the LBS and make sure your crank bolts are tight. Ask if your LBS actually checks the torque on it.

Also, apparently the left one will loosen after time, so if you hear a knock in your pedal, don't ride your bike any more than you have to, and take it easy.

[fc_]

I know this is a highly regarded book, but I tried to use it for two* things and it failed dismally.

The first was lubing my bike. I wanted to know where to lube, because I vaguely remember reading something somewhere about how you shouldn't lube "on the flats", and I don't know what that means. The big blue book just said, "lube where necessary." or something similar. No more details.


Don't lube on the flats refers to not lubing the tapers of a square bottom bracket before you install the crank arm. There is some controversy on this, and appears in the rec.bikes.tech newsgroup every now and again. Most manufacturers will void your warranty if lube has been applied to the bottom bracket before crank arm installation.

Where else to lube? Depends on how far you want to tear thing apart. ;) Cleaning and lubing the chain, and applying lube to the shift/derailler cables where they run through the cable housing can work wonders for your shifting and breaking (careful not to get lube on your brake pads! :eek: )

Modern bottom brackets are sealed cartridge bearing types for the most part, and the only lube thats needed is during installation, if you have a steel frame and the bottom bracket has aluminum cups, make sure that you use an anti-seize on it, otherwise it can be difficult to remove later.

Headsets only occasional re-packing with grease is necessary. Same with hub bearings.

Things like water bottle bolts, rack bolts, fender bolts, etc. I use blue locktite on them to prevent them from coming off on the road.


Then, I wanted to know how to adjust a saddle. It talked about one bolt saddles and two bolt saddles, but not how to adjust them. I understood I tightened and loosened screws, but they were both tight... didn't know to loosen one first so the other could tighten more.

Plus, my hex bolts seem to be righty-loosy, lefty-tighty.... that confuses me.

I guess those things were too basic for even the big blue book.

For a two bolt seatpost, to adjust the saddle tilt, loosen one bolt, tighten the other. To adjust fore/aft position, loosen both and slide saddle fore or aft and re-tighten the bolts.

For a one bolt seatpost, loosen the bolt and adjust the tilt by moving the bottom cradle to adjust the tilt. If you want to adjust the fore/aft position, simply slide the saddle forward or back with the bolt loosened. Again re-tighten the bolt when finished.

For seat height adjustments, loosen the seatpost binder bolt or the seatpost collar bolt/quick release and move the seatpost higher or lower. Working in small increments is best when dialing things in.

Hope this helps!

[fc_]

So I did some searching here on the board about crank bolts, and found out some stuff everyone should be aware of.

Apparently, it's not uncommon for crank bolts to become loose in the first couple hundred miles. It's one of the biggest reasons people ruin their cranks (esp their left one)... they feel a little knock in it, but need to ride it home (can be as little as an easy 5 miles) and they've already rounded the bolt a little.

Then what happens is that it keeps coming loose periodically. They take it to the bike shop, and they apply too much pressure, trying to get it to stay on. This cracks something.

The mechanics forum said the only way to get the right crank tightness is with an automotive socket wrench. Apparently, although there is a specified torque crank bolts, people generally use just a little hex wrench anyway, and there's no way it can get tight enough.

So, since so many people are buying new bikes on this forum, I just wanted to let you know that after a couple hundred miles, bring it back to the LBS and make sure your crank bolts are tight. Ask if your LBS actually checks the torque on it.

Also, apparently the left one will loosen after time, so if you hear a knock in your pedal, don't ride your bike any more than you have to, and take it easy.

The only right way to install a crank arm, is to use a torque wrench adjusted to the proper torque value (this is usually spec'd by the manufacturer, but on square taper bottom brackets/cranks, the value is usually between 360-400 inch pounds).

And yes, the left crank arm is more prone to becoming loose. Check the torque value on the bolt every once in a while (usually just during the first few hundred miles, then in my experience, they stay tight). I've seen bikes having cranks installed at some of the local bike shops. Some just tighten the bolt by "feel". That's a method that I wouldn't recommend, ever. And if you see this happen in your lbs, don't go there to have your crank bolts tightened! Thats what ends up splitting a crank, constant over tightening of the crank bolt.

[solveg]

fc! That was a very cool post. Thank you! I never even thought of lubing my fender and water bolts!

The problem with the internet is that although it's an awesome source of information, you sometimes have to read for hours to get all the information you need, and then you almost get too much, because everyone does it differently and there are such controversies... and there are so many different techniques people use. Sometimes, as a beginner, it's nice to have a simple explanation with no extra detail, just so you can get the overview of the job at hand.

Your two explanations should be in the big blue book.

Oh! And I just read your crank bolt post. Thanks again. I love my LBS, and am relieved to hear that most shops do it by feel (that's what my LBS said, too, and it kind of bummed me out because I really like them), but I'm glad you agree it's not a good idea. I'm going to find a shop that uses a torque wrench and make sure it's on good.

[joelpalmer]

I think bikes are a lot tougher than people think. I started at 350lbs and never had any problems with my navigator and now at 310 I even use if for light off road use and it doesn't break. So far I only have 150 miles on the road bike, but it to hold up fine. I'm even beating on it pretty hard learing to climb while standing. I also stand and pound it hard on all my take off, which is usually 10-12 a ride.

More than likey your bike is just out of adjustment.

There can be problems with older bikes though, as my recent non-luck has been demonstrating. I normally commute on an old (1974 based on the rear hub) Schwinn 3 speed. A couple months back I broke a spoke on the front wheel and took it in to get repaired. As part of the fix the LBS checked all the spokes, adjusted tension etc. When I picked it up I was told that the spokes were pretty much shot (guess 33 years, 260 lbs and Baltimore roads aren't so great for spokes) and I would need new ones soon.

Yesterday, riding home (in 100+ heat with 60%+ humidity) I broke a drive-side, rear wheel spoke, which then decided to attack the cog, rendering the bike unrideable until I get a new hub in so I can get completely new wheels built.

[joelpalmer]

The Park Tools Big Blue Book of bike repair is a very good reference and repair guide. If you don't do the repairs yourself you can havesome idea of what they are doing to your ride

+1, it's a great reference and covers just about everything