Hi, Thanks to all the advice on this board ( esp James ) , I went from never having heard of a Swift bike , to buying one a few weeks ago. I bought my bike from bfold in New York City. David was great , he allowed me a test ride with no hassles. Although I think it is hard to really know about a bike on one ride, I was convinced , as per many views on here, that it did ride better than the Dahon , with less 'whip' in the frame.

I took the bike to Montreal last week & again , although I had read it on this board, I really was surprised about the size when it was folded. I own a Honda Civic & compared to the Dahon my wife own's , it was a pain in the bum trying to get the Swift in the back ( I didn't pay the extra $50 for folding pedals ). All in all , not one for folding on a daily basis. It made me realise just how good my old Brompton was as a daily city workhorse.

So far I have done a few 10 mile rides around the 'beautiful & car friendly ' roads of Long Island. I have found it unforgiving when hitting a bump & my back starts to ache at the 10 mile mark ( I had the longer stem placed on the bike - I am 6'1" -2" & 215lbs ) . Yet , I am pleased with it.

I have a few questions for the more learned members of the board & any advice would be greatfully received:

1 - I want to get a Brooks saddle. Any advice on the best one to get based on the above.
2 - I had 'bar ends' placed on the bike , but the one's fitted at the shop aren't that comfortable due to their shape ( I should have requested round ones at the time ) - what do others use.
3 - I want a small bag/rack for when I go on day/ weekend trips - any advice ?
4 - Strapless toe clips - does anyone use them & if so , which ones .

Thanks.

Ergon bar ends are a really nice fit [though a bit pricey].

http://www.mtbtandems.com/images/ErgonMR1.gif
Ergon bar ends

They can be set up in lots of ways (that end and the paddle-like grip can be rotated to fit you hands) and clamp to the bar so they're easily moved from one bike to another should the need arise. Brooks saddles? Hrm. They take a little while to break in (unless you get one of the pre-worn-in ones - but then it's not worn to your own specific shape), but are really nice when they are broken in.

http://hiawathacyclery.com/cart/images/IMG_0522_500.jpg
Brooks B17

From what you say you maybe want one with a bit of spring to it; A B17 is comfy but doesn't really offer much to take out the bumps - for that - you could get one with springs, or see if you can find a sprung seatpost instead.

http://www.canecreek.com/typo3temp/pics/3b4ebc05ed.jpg
Cane Creek 'Thudbuster'

Personally I think 'Thudbuster' seatposts are a little overkill but users here speak well of them; you can find lots of less full-on elastomer-based posts that should be more forgiving on your back. Or use the stock post and a nice brooks like the B67 or the B73

http://hiawathacyclery.com/cart/images/IMG_0524_500.jpg
Brooks B67

LP , thanks for the advice. I used to think that London cycling was bad but that was before I came out here ! ( I used to ride from Pimlico to Hammersmith )

Regarding saddle and/or suspension: You could consider a Thudbuster as suggested by LP, you can buy them here (http://www.calhouncycle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=864) for the Swift. Or yoy could try J. Gaerlan (http://www.gaerlan.com/) or ThorUSA (http://www.thorusa.com/) for a Dahon-specific post, but you need to ensure it has the right diameter and wall thickness, ie 34.0mm and 4(?)mm.

I thought the Swift soaks bumps pretty well. What tyre pressure are you running? Sometimes one of the best things you can do is install a set of Schwalbe 2" Big Apples, pump them to 40psi approx. It makes a massive difference and is an inexpensive solution that works.

I have the Ergon bar ends on my folder, and they're great.

I also have a Brooks B17. I bought it as an experiment. I'd read a lot about Brooks saddles and many testimonials from those who tried a leather saddle and vowed never to go back. Back in the 70's, I also read a lot about the under-the-chainstay U-brake. Remember those? Anyway, when I bough my saddle it was with the idea in mind that it was as likely as not I was buying into some old-is-new retro marketing campaign.

Well, now I'm one of those converted I'll never go back to a plastic saddle again guys. It's a great saddle, and my skepticism is gone. Here are some notes.

Unlike most saddles, there is some maintenance. You must treat the leather and tension the saddle: as the leather dries over time, it can become brittle and crack. It must be treated with a conditioner on the underside every 18-24 months. When you condition it, the leather relaxes a tiny bit. After you've conditioned it a few times, you may have to adjust the seat tension a little (by turning a bolt about ¾ of a turn.) It's not a lot of maintenance, but it's something you should know about.

My saddle was very comfortable right from the start, but it's also worth mentioning that some people find the saddle to be very hard until it is broken in, just like a pair of leather boots. If you get one, and it's not immediately comfortable for you, a break in regimen can be helpful, which consists of short rides at first, gradually increasing the time it the saddle until you and the saddle acclimate to one another.

Before choosing which Brooks saddle you want, you'll need some information at hand. It seems to me basically speaking that Brooks saddles are broken up into two categories: sprung and unsprung. If you tend to favor a more upright riding position, you might consider a sprung saddle, otherwise you would go for an unsprung model. The main difference among the saddles in each of those groups is width. So which is the right width for you? You'll need to measure the distance across your ischial tuburosities, or seat bones. You want your saddle to be wide enough that your seat bones are on the saddle, and not hanging over the edge, which puts your weight onto undesirable places. To take the measurement, find a piece of corrugated cardboard about the width of a chair bottom, and put it on a coffee table. Sit down on the cardboard and remain there for a moment, motionless. Then stand up. You should be able to see the two oval imprints of your seat bones. It helps if you sit straight down, and stand straight up, without too much squirming around. It also helps if you are wearing just skivvies or sweats. Not jeans with embroidered pockets and a fat wallet back there. Once the cardboard has been impressed, you can measure the width across the indentations left by your seat bones. Once you know the width, the only choice left is the color, and whether it's worth it to you to pay extra for titanium rails. I chose black, because I can touch up blemishes with black shoe polish. Many consider the patina that occurs with normal use to be desirable - even a badge of honor. This width issue is an important one. If you have hard saddle that is too narrow, you will be sorry.

Wallingford Bicycle Parts (http://www.wallbike.com/Brookssaddles.html) includes the widths of all the Brooks saddles on their pages, as well as a lot of other helpful information.

I have the Ergon bar ends on my folder, and they're great.

I like them on my folder too.

I tried a Brooks B67 and found it to be too hard. I also thought the springs were too powerful for my weight. I think it is designed for a heavier rider. Maybe someone 200 lbs or more. Also I thought the Brooks B67 was extremely heavy in weight.

I like the thudbuster, because I can adjust the amount of resistance to make it feel bouncy, and help to eliminate bumps. I think the thudbuster is a great invention.

Maybe your aching back is due to being 'scrunched up'. I too got the large size frame with the 100mm stem, but I'm pretty sure I need more length then that. I'm now looking for a 130mm stem with a gentler slope to extend the reach.

Maybe torso or arm length, rather then just height, determines the length from seat to handlebar you need.

The sheldon brown / harris site has some info on selection. In general I find that brooks only works if my sit bones hit the right place at the right angle to work like a hammock , otherwise they are horrible and heavy.

thanks for the advice.