Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - newbie mods to bike..

Hi

I'm looking to make mods to a stock BikesDirect Kilo TT. The issues I'm looking to fix are:

#1
The drop bars are too low and not forward enough for my taste. I am thinking of getting proper bullhorns. What are your recommendations between the various Nitto RB series? I used to have a fixed-conversion with chopped-flipped bars, and those were too short to be comfortable. Ideally I think I'd like bullhorns that *rise* a bit, or at least are angled up (however ugly that may look). I'm considering RB-009, RB-021 and RB-019 afaik. These would have to work with an aero lever and a front brake (any recommendations for those?)

#2
The front wheel presta valve never fills properly. The back wheel is ok. How easy is it to damage a presta valve? I have a pump with built in gauge and even when seated properly it shows no pressure, or else 20psi and no amount of pumping will get it to go more. I am thinking of switching out the entire tire though this may be expensive. Interestingly, if I jam it all the way onto the valve it never fills, but if I let it cover just a few threads before flipping the lock-lever, it fills for a bit (but is prone to slip off). Finding that middle ground takes upto 4 minutes on the rear tire, but yesterday for example, I spent an HOUR trying to fill up the front tire. hilarious and sickening at the same time ;-)

And if I'm doing this it strikes me that I may as well buy a new wheel with a quick-release mechanism..

#3
Pedals. Biking in the stock clips -- first of all it's hard to get my feet into the clips. Second, with chuck-allstar type sneakers, it's painful. There's like three metal teeth my forefoot rests on. Ideally I'd like a nice *flat* pedal surface, with powergrip straps or similar. Recommendations? How are zefal clipless regarded? I am considering Zefal and/or powergrips (do they work together?). I'd rather have my pedals work with my shoes rather than buy new shoes...


**edit**
This was my old post. I removed it because it was rubbing a lot of people the wrong way, and I thought I could edit it down to 2 simple questions. Apologies.

zefal clipless?

why would you replace the tire (or even the whole wheel?) just because of a broken valve?

Switching the wheel not just for the Presta valve not working, but so that I can put in a quick-release front wheel.

Did I write Zefal Clipless? Mea culpa, I meant the plasticky looking thing found here:
http://www.amazon.com/Zefal-Bicycle-Half-Toe-Clips/dp/B000JDZQ0W

666pack sorry if I offended you, feel free to ignore posts prefixed with newbie?

#1
Is a new with a quick-release mechanism not recommended for fixed-gear bikes?


???

I read an off-hand comment on this forum about not recommending this. I don't know why, just thought I'd ask. sheesh, this whole thread is embarrassing. I hope I'm learning _something_ from it..

I mean, generally you don't want a QR since it can be easily jacked. But I'm new here as well, so maybe there are other reasons. That's enough for me though.

1. You generally don't want a quick release front wheel because, as mentioned by sixfive, anyone can remove the wheel. Also if the mechanism loosens without your knowledge, and you hit a nice bump just the right way, your wheel could go flying. Even if you don't have a quick release front, it is good locking practice to lock up your front wheel (if not with a separate U-lock then at least with a cable).

In most cases, quick release for the rear wheel is a bad idea too, but I'm sure you're not considering that.

1a. Your presta valve issue is probably the valve stem is too tight:

http://www.bikesmart.com/products/TUBGEN_700cprestalong.jpg

You may not realize it, but the topmost part of the valve actually unscrews. Try unscrewing it a few turns (if it falls out, that's okay -- just screw it back in a bit) and then pumping. When you have proper pressure screw it tight and then screw on the valve cover, if you have one. If this still doesn't fix it, crap happens in manufacturing plants. Just go buy a new tube (you definitely don't need a new "wheel" or "tire").

2. Pedals -- It sounds like your straps are way too tight. Look at the metal buckle and you should be able to figure out how tight you need yours to be. Some riders like to tighten their straps every time they ride; I personally don't care about maximum power transfer when I'm just riding to the store.


Also, I'd reccomend against trying powergrips right now. Get used to straps first and see if you really need something different after adjusting them. You can always buy higher-quality metal clips if yours aren't holding up well.

While many riders use chuck taylors or slip-ons, the low-profile, slim-design shoes likes Addidas Sambas are also a good choice to wear while riding. I find big cushy skate shoes too unweildy to bike in.

I can't tell what you're trying to say about the protrusions. Can you take a picture? Pedals, like saddles, are a very personal piece of a bike: everyone likes something different.

Many riders like the MKS Sylvan pedals. Most shops carry them and they're pretty cheap. Try them out if you hate your pedals that much. A good shop will not charge you more than $5-10 to swap over to new pedals and carry over your clips/straps.

Ja ne!
%peabody

Edited for grammar

Switching the wheel not just for the Presta valve not working, but so that I can put in a quick-release front wheel.

Did I write Zefal Clipless? Mea culpa, I meant the plasticky looking thing found here:
http://www.amazon.com/Zefal-Bicycle-Half-Toe-Clips/dp/B000JDZQ0W

666pack sorry if I offended you, feel free to ignore posts prefixed with newbie?

I would also reccomend against the half-clips. I've never touched them but they lack straps, which (when you want them to) wrap tightly around your shoes to provide maximum power transfer or resistance for skidding and skips.

It also occurred to me that they could have sent you clips that are too small. Generally there are S/M clips and L/XL ones. If you're a size 14 like me, there's no way you're going to be comfy in a S/M clip, even with chucks or slip-ons.

If this is the case, now's the time to go upgrade your clips. Again, a good shop should have no problem with this.

I personally prefer the metal clips because they are more durable... the plastic resin ones eventually broke from being scraped against the ground too much.

If you're considering new pedals and new clips, some sites sell a combo of MKS Sylvans, MKS metal clips, and red leather straps. This is a solid combination.

Ja ne!

$peabody

Quick release fronts are fine, you can take the wheel off and lock everything with a mini-U lock.

Quick release fronts are fine, you can take the wheel off and lock everything with a mini-U lock.

If someone already has a QR this is definitely a solution, with the addition of a long-style U-lock.

If someone has track bolts, there's no reason, to me, to move to QR. I think it's more of a hassle to remove the wheel then it is to just U-lock it seperately. Especially since a new lock will cost less than a decent front wheel.

ok.. am i high or did he edit the OP and take some stuff out that you guys replied to... seriously i don't have a problem with questions, but i fyou're calling yourself a newb then trying to cover your tracks thats lame.

on the other hand if im just ****ing crazy disregard this post- i'll be editing it to cover my tracks.

ok.. am i high or did he edit the OP and take some stuff out that you guys replied to... seriously i don't have a problem with questions, but i fyou're calling yourself a newb then trying to cover your tracks thats lame.

on the other hand if im just ****ing crazy disregard this post- i'll be editing it to cover my tracks.

no, you're not crazy. I was going to respond to all his things this morning, but, I have work to do, and it would take me a long time to respond in a complete way to 5 different questions.

1. You generally don't want a quick release front wheel because, as mentioned by sixfive, anyone can remove the wheel. Also if the mechanism loosens without your knowledge, and you hit a nice bump just the right way, your wheel could go flying. Even if you don't have a quick release front, it is good locking practice to lock up your front wheel (if not with a separate U-lock then at least with a cable).


Thanks Peabody, I remember reading this on the forums.

If I had a QR wheel I'd remove/carry it or remove/lock it. It seems strange that a properly locked down QR wheel could come off but I suppose it's not worth the risk, eh?

I'm glad you managed to suss out the issue implicit in my rambling post. ;)

ok.. am i high or did he edit the OP and take some stuff out that you guys replied to... seriously i don't have a problem with questions, but i fyou're calling yourself a newb then trying to cover your tracks thats lame.

on the other hand if im just ****ing crazy disregard this post- i'll be editing it to cover my tracks.

I realized I'd asked questions that weren't very clear and seemed to be offending some people, so I edited down the OP. I wasn't trying to cover my tracks :o

On the other hand, nothing wrong with being high :D

no, you're not crazy. I was going to respond to all his things this morning, but, I have work to do, and it would take me a long time to respond in a complete way to 5 different questions.

apologies.. I didn't realize I'd asked completely different questions.

but I just got a bunch of stuff from bikenashbar's sale: tt/bullhorn bars and tape mostly. I skipped out on a QR wheel, but did get a replacement inner tube with presta valve. However, I'm not sure about sizing, I ordered the small set, I think. Perhaps a 700c needs a large tube? I couldn't find a comparison of tire/tube size on nashbar's site.

apologies.. I didn't realize I'd asked completely different questions.

but I just got a bunch of stuff from bikenashbar's sale: tt/bullhorn bars and tape mostly. I skipped out on a QR wheel, but did get a replacement inner tube with presta valve. However, I'm not sure about sizing, I ordered the small set, I think. Perhaps a 700c needs a large tube? I couldn't find a comparison of tire/tube size on nashbar's site.

700c tubes (yours is in all likelihood) also have a diameter. 23 is really common but I used to rock some really wide 28s.

Did you try unscrewing the valve core more and pumping, per my suggestion?

edit: +1 for being high. We played this game called "nam" or something last night while smoking.

Ja ne!
$peabody

I would also reccomend against the half-clips. I've never touched them but they lack straps, which (when you want them to) wrap tightly around your shoes to provide maximum power transfer or resistance for skidding and skips.
...clipped...
If you're considering new pedals and new clips, some sites sell a combo of MKS Sylvans, MKS metal clips, and red leather straps. This is a solid combination.

Ja ne!

$peabody

I think my pedals are Wellgo that look like this
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/mks-touring.jpg


those teeth feel really bad thru latex soles!

And I guess these are what I might find more comfortable:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/mks-gr9-platform.jpeg

Thanks for the suggestion on MKS, I'll look for them.

I've been making sure that the last small nut on the valve is all the way screwed out (it doesn't fall off).
I'll try again tomorrow morning.

cheers!

Remember that as the nut unscrews, the exposed valve gets longer and hence easier to bend and eventually to break. So be gentle when getting the pump hooked up.

What kind of pump is it? I've had some terrible experiences with Park pumps which I can explain in more detail if applicable.

What kind of pump is it? I've had some terrible experiences with Park pumps which I can explain in more detail if applicable.I agree, I have a Park pump and its a b!tch to pump up any presta valves ever, especially when trying to inflate a tube for the first time

Funny, I have a cheapo Wal-mart pump from the 90s and it works fine everytime.

Take that, Park!!

I think my pedals are Wellgo that look like this
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/mks-touring.jpg


those teeth feel really bad thru latex soles!

And I guess these are what I might find more comfortable:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/mks-gr9-platform.jpeg

Thanks for the suggestion on MKS, I'll look for them.

If you're on the cheap and really want smooth pedals you can always grind or dremel off the spikes. Won't look good probably, and MKS Sylvans are only like $30, but it'd work.

For future reference those are dubbed "rat-traps."

1. You generally don't want a quick release front wheel because, as mentioned by sixfive, anyone can remove the wheel. Also if the mechanism loosens without your knowledge, and you hit a nice bump just the right way, your wheel could go flying.

I think it is highly unlikely your wheels going to go flying, considering they have been using QR for years on geared bikes. If it was so flawed they would not be the standard.

I think it is highly unlikely your wheels going to go flying, considering they have been using QR for years on geared bikes. If it was so flawed they would not be the standard.

Highley unlikely but definitely possible if some nutjob walks up to your bike and releases the QR lever and you don't notice, or anything of that variety.

My idea was that there's no good reason to switch to a QR wheel when a new lock will be cheaper.