Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - How's this look?

I've started a few clueless threads lately, sorry about the redundancy. Anyway, I have selected a group of things that seem necessary to buy in order to build up a fixie. Is this list complete? Obviously I already have a frame and headset and handlebars etc. I'll post links.

rear wheel and hub (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=673&catalogId=39)

front wheel and hub (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=673&catalogId=39)

chain (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=722&catalogId=39)

sprocket (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1292&catalogId=39)

cranks and chainring (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1467&catalogId=39)

lock ring (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=675)


Ok, so with these parts, plus tires and pedals, am I able to completely build up a bike? Am I missing something? I think the wheels come with hubs. . .but am not 100%. This is kind of a lot of money for me to spend as well so if any of these parts are not so good (obviously their not top line but come on) let me know. I'm trying to stay cheap and I'm building an old road bike into a fixie.

well, since the RD is coming with a 48t chain ring, i'd get a bigger cog...probably 17 or 18. if you plan on skidding a lot, i'd get a 17 so you're not constantly hitting the same spots.

as far as wheels go, i'd just look on ebay for a mavic cxp22 laced to formula track hubs. they're a safe bet, and generally regarded as a better quality wheel than the weinmann's. also, i'd get a 700c wheel just because there will be a larger variety of tires for you to choose from than if you went with a 27" wheel.

the chain is fine, but a lot of people find KMC chains are the cheapest/best/easiest to find chains around, plus KMC makes colored chains if you're into that.

hope that helps, if any of my advice is ******** i'm sure someone will let you know.

Wheels are hubs laced to rims with spokes, so yes they come with hubs. Don't forget a bottom bracket, track or BMX chainring bolts (don't get regular cr bolts, they will be too long) and crank bolts. Brake(s) would be a good idea too. Why are you running 27"s, 700c wheels will grant you better tire selection. 48/15 seems like a pretty big gear ratio to push for your first fixed. maybe think about a bigger cog?

damn, olly got to it first...

damn, olly got to it first...

:P

just bored on a wednesday night!

I don't think a chain made for a geared setup is the right choice. A fixed gear or SS chain shouldn't have the flex that you would get with a multispeed chain.

Someone know otherwise?

It actually makes no difference. Track chain is just 1/8th chain, rather than 3/32. Lots of people run 3/32 rings and cogs, and use regular chain, and it's no problem.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

I still haven't ordered yet, but here is what I have changed to based on comments:

17 tooth cog (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2226) is this too cheap?

700c 32 spokes in silver (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1808)

chainring bolts (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=680)

I ended up keeping the same chain, going to those Mavic wheels (found for same price as the 27in.!), getting a 17 tooth sprocket (should I have changed the chainring/crank instead?), and picking up some chainring bolts. I'm if those chainring bolts cover the cog bolts pirate was talking about.

thanks again for the help,

Scott

86 Gi is a killer
your cranks will come with the proper bolts IF you're buying a FG/SS single chainring like Sheldon's Selling.

I don't know anything about that cog. I've always used a Soma cog with a Dura Ace lockring. The total was always about $35 from my LBS. I'm sure you've seen it said before, but just to remind you, the cog/lockring is really the one area where you DO NOT want to opt for the cheaper solution. Get the good stuff.

Here's a good "bike build" checklist I made a while back...
It's useful to glance over and make sure you're not forgetting anything.

Frame
Fork
Rear Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
Front Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
Headset
Headset spacers
Headset topcap
Star fangled nut
Stem
Handlebar
Seatpost clamp
Seatpost
Saddle
Tires
Rim tape
Tubes
Crank
Chainrings
Chainring bolts
Bottom Bracket
Chain
Cassette/Freewheel/Cog/Lockring
Pedals
Grips / Bar Tape
Bar Plugs
Water Bottle Cage
Brake Calipers
Brake Cables
Brake Levers
Cable Crimp Ends
Cable Ferrules

I don't know anything about that cog. I've always used a Soma cog with a Dura Ace lockring. The total was always about $35 from my LBS. I'm sure you've seen it said before, but just to remind you, the cog/lockring is really the one area where you DO NOT want to opt for the cheaper solution. Get the good stuff.

Point taken. I'll upgrade my cog to: E.A.I. 17 tooth cog (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1308&CatalogId=39&Variations=&alert=OK&#alert)


86 Gi is a killer

What's this?

Also, what about the 48/17 that I'd be running. Is this pretty normal? Should I maybe go 48/16?

Should I maybe go 48/16?

Hah! I was just discussing that ratio in another thread. 48/16 is pretty tall for street usage. I'd stay with the 48/17, which is what I'm looking at going to.

Ok, I'll stick with 48/17. Also, I didn't see that build list before my last post, but that is very helpful. Thanks.

Point taken. I'll upgrade my cog to: E.A.I. 17 tooth cog (http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1308&CatalogId=39&Variations=&alert=OK&#alert)



What's this?

Also, what about the 48/17 that I'd be running. Is this pretty normal? Should I maybe go 48/16?

every chainring and cog combo gives you a few numbers-ratio and Gear inches. Gear inches is a measure of how many inches you travel in one crank revolution.

depending on where you live, it will vary from very small (60 ish, I guess) to huge (80+) Most are somewhere in the 70-79 range, based on my crappy memory about various threads here. The lower your GI, the more spinning you will have to do, but hills are easier. The higher, the faster you can go, but hills will be deadly. Also, backpedaling and skidding will be very, very difficult until you build up your strength.

Look up the Rabbit Gear inch calculator, and play with it.

Also, Soma cogs are only 1/8" as I remember.

Soma makes both.

http://www.somafab.com/kogs.html

One more question.

Don't most 70s road bikes (what I'll be using) take 27in. wheels? That's why I got those at first. Will 700c wheels fit? Right now I have an old 70s fuji and an early 70s schwinn. I haven't decided yet which I'll use. Both are the heaviest things I have EVER seen. Really I'm still looking for another frame that's lighter with those horizontal tracks to use.

Yesterday I ran into this REALLY nice used frame that I bought, realized it was too tall for me, felt like an idiot for not measuring before I bought, and luckily was able to return like 10 min. after I bought it. If anyone in Houston wants it, it's at Cyclone Cycles and really cheap. 59cm. I don't remember the exact details of it anymore but it was close to a top line road frame from the 70's. Sorry I can't remember the specifics. It was really painful returning it because it didn't fit. It was exactly what I was looking for.

So anyway, the original question: Will I run into trouble fitting those 700c's to a 70's road bike?

700c is smaller than 27"

Brake reach may be a problem, though.

Quite often there will be enough reach with your old calipers to just slide the brake pads down a bit in their slots for the slightly smaller 700c wheel. If not, old calipers that will work can probably be found for next to nothing at some LBS.

Here's a good "bike build" checklist I made a while back...
It's useful to glance over and make sure you're not forgetting anything.

Frame
Fork
Rear Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
Front Wheel (rim, spokes, hub, nipples)
Headset
Headset spacers
Headset topcap
Star fangled nut
Stem
Handlebar
Seatpost clamp
Seatpost
Saddle
Tires
Rim tape
Tubes
Crank
Chainrings
Chainring bolts
Bottom Bracket
Chain
Cassette/Freewheel/Cog/Lockring
Pedals
Grips / Bar Tape
Bar Plugs
Water Bottle Cage
Brake Calipers
Brake Cables
Brake Levers
Cable Crimp Ends
Cable Ferrules

Nice list.. One thing jumped out as missing: Brake Pads

700c is smaller than 27"

Brake reach may be a problem, though.

Brake reach is almost certainly the only problem, and the 700 series will allow you huge flexibility. For example if you want to run very skinny tires with extremely high air pressure. So far as I know the 27" tires stop at about 95 lbs of air, where you can put 130 lbs or more in a 700. Or you could run fat cross tires; or even metal studded tires in the winter. Not to mention the fact that you can get any tire under the sun in 700.

Get 700's, 27" is old technology and in my opinion not well supported anymore.


Quite often there will be enough reach with your old calipers to just slide the brake pads down a bit in their slots for the slightly smaller 700c wheel. If not, old calipers that will work can probably be found for next to nothing at some LBS.

I've put 700s on two older frames (my current Fuji build (http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=329933) and my old Motobecane), and it worked on one and not the other. The Fuji with a Dia Compe 500 caliper worked, but the Moto with Weiman centerpulls did not. An important note is that I believe the brake reach of the DC 500 and Weiman are very close, but the fork clearance on the two bikes is different. So, don't generalize that a brake caliper will fit by model; get down on your bike and measure the distance.

I would not use a chain designed for a geared bike. They are designed to move laterally and climb lifters in order to switch gears. Those are things that you don't want to happen on a fixed or single speed bike becasue you don't have gears and you don't have chain guides like geared bikes do, so the chain will drop if this happens.

Get a BMX chain. Most BMX chains are stronger than geared bike chains. Most BMX chains are cheaper than $20.

I would not use a chain designed for a geared bike. They are designed to move laterally and climb lifters in order to switch gears. Those are things that you don't want to happen on a fixed or single speed bike...

...and which won't happen with any chain if you have a good chainline/no lifters/no derailleurs encouraging it into such shenanigans.

but if you're buying new and not re-using, you have the luxury of choosing. 1/8" chains are beefy as hell. if you're a monster masher or an avid skidder, this is what you want. if not, it really doesn't matter. get what's cheap.

aside: stay away from the SRAM PC-1. horrible. it's cheap and you get what you pay for. i've broken one repeatedly on my XC singlespeed (because i was too stubborn to replace it). the kmc inox on there now is bulletproof but weighs 5lbs.

...and which won't happen with any chain if you have a good chainline/no lifters/no derailleurs encouraging it into such shenanigans.

Agreed. I've been riding a KMC 7-speed chain on my fixed gear for many, many miles and have *never* had a problem with the chain climbing. With a chainring/cog with straight teeth, it just won't happen. (Incidentally, it's the chain that came with my Rush Hour). OTOH, I'm running the same type of chain on my SS MTB, but with a cassette cog (which has lifters, etc), and even with a straight chainline if the tension is too light, the chain pops right off. I don't know if a BMX chain would fix it (it would probably help), but I'm sure a proper SS cog would (but I'm too cheap to drop the $25 on one right now).