Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - Best Halogen System for Night Commute

Anyone here use a halogen system? Which is the best one to get?

Jet Lite? Light and Motion? Good weatherproofing, brightness, and run time would be ideal.

Why would you want a halogen over an LED? They are to the point where they are comparable in brightness and cost, with LEDs having better battery life.

I have a Light and Motion solo mv. I would not recommend it. Here's why:

The handle bar holder does not lock in the light at whatever angle you need (down, straight ahead, etc..). It is continually shifting from where I want it due to road vibrations.
The light bulbs are impossible to get except through L&M's website at a premium cost for the light bulb and shipping.
Poor life span of the light bulb. The light bulb did not last a season, running at the spec'd 13Watts for less than 50 hours of use.

I would definitely look elsewhere than L&M. It does not matter how nice and bright a light is, if you can't get replacement bulbs easily, if they don't last, and if the holder keeps going out of adjustment.

Why would you want a halogen over an LED? They are to the point where they are comparable in brightness and cost, with LEDs having better battery life.

That is not true at all.

Jet Lite fire off around 600-700 lumens, brighter than some H.I.D.'s.
Current Cree XR-E, and Seoul's LED generate around 150 lumens per bulb, and this is only situated in a small spot. Minimal and week spill. Halogen is thorough, light about the entire area. Huge difference.

Even the Cygolite's new TritonX will not compare, at 500 lumens.
$350 for the Jet Lite Dual and get about 1200 lumens for an hour and around 700 lumens for 2h
$350 for a spot of 500 lumens for the TritonX.
$350 for TriNewt (Niterider) 486 lumens, only spot becomes useable

Even the Trinewt from Niterider only gets you 480 something lumens and at 3 and a half hours. That is

I have a Light and Motion solo mv. I would not recommend it. Here's why:

The handle bar holder does not lock in the light at whatever angle you need (down, straight ahead, etc..). It is continually shifting from where I want it due to road vibrations.
The light bulbs are impossible to get except through L&M's website at a premium cost for the light bulb and shipping.
Poor life span of the light bulb. The light bulb did not last a season, running at the spec'd 13Watts for less than 50 hours of use.

I would definitely look elsewhere than L&M. It does not matter how nice and bright a light is, if you can't get replacement bulbs easily, if they don't last, and if the holder keeps going out of adjustment.

Thanks. As it turns out, L&M overvolts their bulbs, thereby shortening the life. Jet Lite makes a much more powerful bulb, that is why it is so much brighter, and more efficient, and lasts for many seasons.

That is not true at all.

Jet Lite fire off around 600-700 lumens, brighter than some H.I.D.'s.
Current Cree XR-E, and Seoul's LED generate around 150 lumens per bulb, and this is only situated in a small spot. Minimal and week spill. Halogen is thorough, light about the entire area. Huge difference.

Even the Cygolite's new TritonX will not compare, at 500 lumens.
$350 for the Jet Lite Dual and get about 1200 lumens for an hour and around 700 lumens for 2h
$350 for a spot of 500 lumens for the TritonX.
$350 for TriNewt (Niterider) 486 lumens, only spot becomes useable

Even the Trinewt from Niterider only gets you 480 something lumens and at 3 and a half hours. That is

Having used halogen for years, and having switched to LED, I can say from personal experience that LED is far superior in both run time and color tone. The color tone of LED compared to halogen makes a huge difference in visibility for the urban commuter.

As for spot vs flood, for commuting one doesn't need a massive flood. I have found that a spot LED (Cateye Double Shot) provides enough spill to see the complete road with.

But to each his own, enjoy your halogen.

EDIT: 400 lumens is plenty for commuting. 1200 for commuting is simply dangerous as you'll blind on coming cars.

Having used halogen for years, and having switched to LED, I can say from personal experience that LED is far superior in both run time and color tone. The color tone of LED compared to halogen makes a huge difference in visibility for the urban commuter.

As for spot vs flood, for commuting one doesn't need a massive flood. I have found that a spot LED (Cateye Double Shot) provides enough spill to see the complete road with.

But to each his own, enjoy your halogen.

EDIT: 400 lumens is plenty for commuting. 1200 for commuting is simply dangerous as you'll blind on coming cars.

What halogen setup did you have? What company/model? How many Watts was it? Lumens?

Over the last 15 years I've had many, from Cateye, Night Sun, Sigma Sport, and others. They ranged from 10w to 35w.

Just out of curiosity, what are you currently using that makes you feel you need such a powerful light as the Jet Lites?

Over the last 15 years I've had many, from Cateye, Night Sun, Sigma Sport, and others. They ranged from 10w to 35w.

Just out of curiosity, what are you currently using that makes you feel you need such a powerful light as the Jet Lites?

A pair of P3D Rebels Luxeon (Rebel Luxeon, now compared with Q5 Crees), and L2D CE (Fenix).

Am also considering Light and Motion H.I.D. NiMH version for $350. Basically, will be turning in the Rebels, but keeping the L2D CE for the helmet.

Will be commuting, and maybe night trails.

A typical car illuminates with 1600 lumens. 1200 lumens ain't so bad, but it also ain't what I am looking for. Around 675 lumens would be good. Hence, L&M Arc NiMH, or Jet Lites Blast H.I.D.

Thanks. As it turns out, L&M overvolts their bulbs, thereby shortening the life. Jet Lite makes a much more powerful bulb, that is why it is so much brighter, and more efficient, and lasts for many seasons.

Where did you find this information about overvolting?

This is actually good news to me, because I can get a 12 watt bulb from Bulbman.com that fits at a quarter of the cost.

A pair of P3D Rebels Luxeon (Rebel Luxeon, now compared with Q5 Crees), and L2D CE (Fenix).

Am also considering Light and Motion H.I.D. NiMH version for $350. Basically, will be turning in the Rebels, but keeping the L2D CE for the helmet.

Will be commuting, and maybe night trails.

A typical car illuminates with 1600 lumens. 1200 lumens ain't so bad, but it also ain't what I am looking for. Around 675 lumens would be good. Hence, L&M Arc NiMH, or Jet Lites Blast H.I.D.

Are you using flashlights, homemade lights, or bicycle specific lights?

I've been using a cygo nitro 15W halo. It works well enough, except when it doesn't some times, and battery life is down to about an hour now after 2 winters of use. Several bulbs/winter, which baffles LBS guy. I've gone over to batteryspace.com bulbs. This winter may be the one that drives me to ditch it before it is dead dead dead.

But to each his own, enjoy your halogen.

EDIT: 400 lumens is plenty for commuting. 1200 for commuting is simply dangerous as you'll blind on coming cars.

Car lights put out far more than 1200 lumen. Why would a bike putting out that much be dangerous? If it gets you seen, all the better. Additionally, in an urban setting, your lights have to compete with all the other ambient light. Why limit yourself to a 'excuse me...over here' light? For urban riding you need a 'Hey, Stupid! Watch were you are going!' light. Often times, blinding the driver is the only way to get noticed.

Car lights put out far more than 1200 lumen. Why would a bike putting out that much be dangerous? If it gets you seen, all the better. Additionally, in an urban setting, your lights have to compete with all the other ambient light. Why limit yourself to a 'excuse me...over here' light? For urban riding you need a 'Hey, Stupid! Watch were you are going!' light. Often times, blinding the driver is the only way to get noticed.

Because many bicyclist mount their lights with the intention of blinding drivers. Car headlights aren't pointed directly in the face on oncoming drivers.

Point of note: The prices shown for the Nite Rider LED's in an above post are not street prices. I use the Nite Rider MiNewt which puts out about 60 lumens (I forget exactly) which can be now had for about $130US. This is a reasonable (maybe marginal) amount of illumination for commuting at slower speeds (15mph) even on dark bike paths but I will probably upgrade to the MiNewt X2 (150 lumens) for $180US when DST ends. There is also the MiNewt X2 Dual (300 lumens, but only 1:45 hours on high) for about $250US. The dual beams allow broader coverage by aiming one near and one far. I may ultimately spring for these.

These headlights can be made to flash. I have noticed that this is very effective in the daylight hours (or in foggy or rainy conditions) for attracting drivers' attention. Some pedestrians have commented on the high intensity (graphics limitations on this site prevent a detailed illustration of this).

Anyway, I have been very happy with the MiNewt.

Because many bicyclist mount their lights with the intention of blinding drivers. Car headlights aren't pointed directly in the face on oncoming drivers.

I would beg to differ. I want my light on the road. Not on a driver's face. Even my helmet light is aimed at the ground 30 to 40 feet in front of me. If the light is aimed at a driver's eyes, it's not doing its job. I can aim my helmet light at a driver's eyes, and I have, but that's only when they are doing something stupid that could get me squished.

Most cyclists I meet at night are aiming their lights in a similar fashion.

I would beg to differ. I want my light on the road. Not on a driver's face. Even my helmet light is aimed at the ground 30 to 40 feet in front of me. If the light is aimed at a driver's eyes, it's not doing its job. I can aim my helmet light at a driver's eyes, and I have, but that's only when they are doing something stupid that could get me squished.

Most cyclists I meet at night are aiming their lights in a similar fashion.

I can honestly say I've never had a problem being noticed with my Cateye Double Shot, or even a 10w halogen for that matter. The idea that you need over 300 lumens to be noticed by cars is a bit far fetched.

I can honestly say I've never had a problem being noticed with my Cateye Double Shot, or even a 10w halogen for that matter. The idea that you need over 300 lumens to be noticed by cars is a bit far fetched.

Sure you can get noticed with a pen light. But why get by with just the minimum? You said that putting out 1200 lumens is dangerous. A 100 W incandescent light bulp puts out 1700 lumens...that's hardly dangerous. A 20W, 12V bare halogen bulb puts out around 300 lumen without a reflector. I have 3 and a 12 W (another 200 lumen). That puts my light output at around 1200 lumen which is less tha a 100 W incandesent bulb. Hardly 'dangerous'.

I'll admit that mine is overkill but where's the harm? I've tried lights with less output and never found them to be an advantage. I've noticed cyclists with very weak lights out riding at night and, if I weren't a cyclist looking for other night riders, I would have missed them in all the background light. Getting lost in the night time urban environment of street light, stoplights, cross signals, car lights, etc. could cause real harm. My 1200 lumens gets noticed, so again, where's the harm?

Thanks. As it turns out, L&M overvolts their bulbs, thereby shortening the life. Jet Lite makes a much more powerful bulb, that is why it is so much brighter, and more efficient, and lasts for many seasons.

Overvolting shortens the bulb life but, in practice, it's not that big an issue. I've been over over-volting MR11s for years...either at 7.2V or 14.4V. I've only replaced one because of burn out. BatterySpace sells them for around $3 and they are of close to the same quality as OEM.

That said, I've read lots of raves about Jet Lites. Never seen one, however.

My systems are cobbled together from various stuff. Mostly around Niterider heads similar to the Trailrat.

thanks cycco

my sentiments exactly

400lumens is not very bright especially when competing against ambient light

motorists are more likely to avoid you and yield if you appear a road hazard
it is one thing to notice you



but another to notice you and worry that they may suffer injury, or damage to their vehicle

i don't want this to be an us and them type of thing, since I am a motorist myself

often times i focus with a ranking system when making turns and driving, mind you this system takes a split second, but will usually be: (since i usually have family in the car)





1) immediate hazards to me (includes family, secondary is vehicle)
2) immediate hazards to others

Sure you can get noticed with a pen light. But why get by with just the minimum? You said that putting out 1200 lumens is dangerous. A 100 W incandescent light bulp puts out 1700 lumens...that's hardly dangerous. A 20W, 12V bare halogen bulb puts out around 300 lumen without a reflector. I have 3 and a 12 W (another 200 lumen). That puts my light output at around 1200 lumen which is less tha a 100 W incandesent bulb. Hardly 'dangerous'.

I'll admit that mine is overkill but where's the harm? I've tried lights with less output and never found them to be an advantage. I've noticed cyclists with very weak lights out riding at night and, if I weren't a cyclist looking for other night riders, I would have missed them in all the background light. Getting lost in the night time urban environment of street light, stoplights, cross signals, car lights, etc. could cause real harm. My 1200 lumens gets noticed, so again, where's the harm?

The only harm can be if drivers are blinded. What my point is is that one doesn't need such powerful lights to commute. Many people new to commuting read the archived threads on this message board looking for information; a thread suggesting $350 lights for a commuter has the potential to turn people off of commuting.

The only harm can be if drivers are blinded. What my point is is that one doesn't need such powerful lights to commute. Many people new to commuting read the archived threads on this message board looking for information; a thread suggesting $350 lights for a commuter has the potential to turn people off of commuting.

I've already said that my lights are aimed so that I can see the ground. Most cyclists I've seen riding at night do the same. There's no sense in carrying a light so that it shoots off into the sky and does no good. Additionally, cars put out far more light then I can on my bike so I doubt that I could 'blind' anyone anyway, unless I intentionally aim my helmet light at them. Then I'm trying to blind them for my own safety. I don't care about them at that point.

I have not suggested $350 for lights. The prices I've seen on the Double shot (around $200) are far closer to that then lights I suggest. When I suggest lights I almost always suggest halogen since those have the best bang for the buck. A Niterider TrailRat (10W with around a 2 hr run time) goes for about $100. For what you paid for the Double shot, you could have 2 lights (one bike and one helmet) and far more flexibility as well as output (replace the 10W bulbs with 15W pretty cheaply). With a Cygo system, I might even be able to get 3 lights out of it. If I were building the system myself (using Niterider Sports), I could put together a 3 or possibly 4 light system that would run 2.5 to 3 hours per light with charger, lamps and batteries. That won't match the run time of an LED but that's long enough for most people's needs. Used conservatively, for example turning off 2 or 3 of the 4 heads when not needed, I could easily get 9 to 12 hours out of the system. I've done that in the past when I did a half century at night. And, I'll guarantee that they will exceed the LED output for that kind of cash.

I've already said that my lights are aimed so that I can see the ground. Most cyclists I've seen riding at night do the same. There's no sense in carrying a light so that it shoots off into the sky and does no good. Additionally, cars put out far more light then I can on my bike so I doubt that I could 'blind' anyone anyway, unless I intentionally aim my helmet light at them. Then I'm trying to blind them for my own safety. I don't care about them at that point.

I have not suggested $350 for lights. The prices I've seen on the Double shot (around $200) are far closer to that then lights I suggest. When I suggest lights I almost always suggest halogen since those have the best bang for the buck. A Niterider TrailRat (10W with around a 2 hr run time) goes for about $100. For what you paid for the Double shot, you could have 2 lights (one bike and one helmet) and far more flexibility as well as output (replace the 10W bulbs with 15W pretty cheaply). With a Cygo system, I might even be able to get 3 lights out of it. If I were building the system myself (using Niterider Sports), I could put together a 3 or possibly 4 light system that would run 2.5 to 3 hours per light with charger, lamps and batteries. That won't match the run time of an LED but that's long enough for most people's needs. Used conservatively, for example turning off 2 or 3 of the 4 heads when not needed, I could easily get 9 to 12 hours out of the system. I've done that in the past when I did a half century at night. And, I'll guarantee that they will exceed the LED output for that kind of cash.
Post #4 suggests the expensive lights.

As for my Double Shot, I paid about $175 for it, and it has a 5.5 hour runtime.

Post #4 suggests the expensive lights.


Yeah, those are pretty sweet!

Hey Grun, any update on which light you decided to go with?

Post #4 suggests the expensive lights.

As for my Double Shot, I paid about $175 for it, and it has a 5.5 hour runtime.YIKES!! And to think I was complaining to myself for having $45(battery/charger/light) in my 20w Halogen with 4.5 hour run time.:eek: I feel better now. Thanks.:o

I don't know if the lumen figures for car lights are low beam only but as a former driver I can tell you the motorists in the know put even more lumens on the front of their vehicles via aftermarket 'driving lights'. These are less common now that HID systems are available for standard headlights and the design of many newer cars makes mounting aftermarket light sources difficult but the object lesson here is: more is better. Just as you shouldn't drive around town on your high beams you also shouldn't blast down country lanes late at night without them! Why shouldn't cyclists have availability to multiple hundreds of lumens, even thousands to use as needed and not use when not needed just like the cagers?

H

As a motorist ( which most of us are anyway) I am not too sure its any particular headlight that attracts attention any more or less than the high visability clothing worn by the cyclist. I dont even like to run over traffic cones knocked into the road let alone a cyclist...I have no great problem seeing their reflection.

What is annoying is the habbit of some cyclists taking the right of way at speed on pedestrian crossings t junctions etc etc...... OK it might be their Right of Way but they dont want an epitaph I Was Right.... rather a safe journey.

Also in my experiance it's a brighter rear light or bigger red reflector that would provide more safety. I do think the little flashing lights get noticed more...

With urban lighting most of the time there is so much light polution some motorists dont even know if their lights are switched on or off.... Unfortunately this applies to indicators too..... But hey who indicates for a lowley bicycle ???

So wise up on headlights by all means but first get the clothing that gets seen... next the pedestrians will be wearing headlights... lets see I could run to work reaching speeds of 18kph.... I need 5000 candle power etc etc.

Now come on which realy is the best lamp without taking out a bank loan

Yep OK I can see a lighthouse too but my point isn’t only about who is brighter than you.... you aint gonna blow a bulb or flatten the batteries on reflective clothing. Fixing a puncture or whatever your bike may be upside down or god help you might fall orf it on an oily road or whatever. Now if I haven’t seen an HID on the road they cant be very popular cause (maybe not on a bicycle) I spend an awful lot of time driving at night..... maybe I am confusing them with UFOs ???

I must be getting old at 57 I use headlights to see where I am driving... I thought sidelights were for identifying the edges of my vehicle after all I don’t park with my headlights on but quite often leave my sidelights on in an area I think a car might side swipe me...... I dont leave my four ways on unless my car has to be stopped in a bad location in an emergency.

I do travel at horrendous speed on my bike…… well 20 to 30 kph so maybe one of those HID lamps might be useful for my fading eyesight ( yes half the car drivers are blind Smidsy’s…sorry mate I didn’t see you) but I need to keep an eye on the wallet too

Is your helmet reflective or don’t you wear one of those either

Now I am goin to have to do a search to find out what a HID is and wot they cost unless you enlighten me…. Pun intended

Huh might have guessed the lights cost more than my entire bike.....

But in my search for understaning I read some of your other posts.

Yep I am gonna stickwith my reflective clothing and cheap bike lamp and leave you spotter types alone

Sorry I am incoherant to you.... your fault not mine.... I am also pleased you are so noticeable in your none reflective clothing duhhh

Just the cost

You must be rich and clever to aford these...... I bet you have the toppest model

No need to be rude to one another, I kind of like a bit of verbiage around the information. Who says every sentence has to be in terse, efficient, prose? Discus, debate even but please, stop sniping.

H

But fairplay does have a good point. Clothing also makes a big difference in getting noticed. I can remember the one time I saw a bike all decked out with reflective tires, clothing, helmet. It was so out of the ordinary that I had to notice. Then I slowed down and passed him with care.

But back to the original post.

What is the best Halogen system for a night commute? We all know that trail riding is a different ball game.

I'd say that my priorities would be:

- Decent focused spot light.. probably 10-15 watts is fine for seeing things in time to avoid them.

- Another on the helmet so you can look at things your not riding towards.

- A long battery life so you don't have to charge it every night (depends on your commute length).

- Water resistant.

- Easy removal (if you lock the bike in unsecure areas) so you can take it with.

But just so the point doesn't get lost, reflective clothing does wonders for the "don't run me over" attention getter requirement. Save some of that $300 for the HID system and get some reflective clothing, some rear blinkers, some reflective tape for the bike, and then just spend the rest on a good halogen light.

FOr the record. I use a 35watt (15watt spot/20 watt flood) Night Pro Elite System for night commuting AND trail riding. The 15watt 12º spot is pretty much all I use for both. It lights up well at a distance and has enough spread to make trail riding manageable when it's on my helmet. I'd love to get a HID system for trail riding, but I spent that money on reflective clothing and blinkers for my bike.

You don't know what an HID is? Here's a comparison of my 13W HID against a 1W Luxeon Star
headlight (Viewpoint Gen3) and two Cateye EL300s on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIn3OWG6YK0

You get an idea of the kind of light capability this way at least.

I don't know if the lumen figures for car lights are low beam only

H

Regular halogen car headlights are normally 55 watts on low and 65 watts on high. Assuming ~25 lumens/watt, a car's headlight will put out 1,210 lumen on low and 1,430 on high.

Arc HID lamps, good for ~ 50 lumens/watts, are typcially powered at 35 watts. Each light puts put out >1,750 lumens on low. I haven't figured out yet how highbeams work with HIDs as you can't just switch filaments like you can with halogen lamps.

Putting the ridiculous debate about whether a bike light can be TOO BRIGHT aside, has anyone answered the OP's question? What is the best Halogen system available for a night commute? (preverably under $200)

Putting the ridiculous debate about whether a bike light can be TOO BRIGHT aside, has anyone answered the OP's question? What is the best Halogen system available for a night commute? (preverably under $200)

Just go to a car parts store and get two halogen driving lights (they usually come as a pair - sell one to a friend!) They'll probably be 50W, though sometimes you can find 35W. If it's 35W you can probably keep it like that, otherwise you'll have to go out and get a 12V MR16 bulb in the 20W range. Combine this with a nice 12V NiMH or Li-Ion battery pack and waterproof switch from batteryspace.com, and you're all set! The whole rig will easily cost less than $200, will look good, perform well, and it'll be totally waterproof.

Performance is selling this system for $149 lately:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=22894&estore_ID=1330

This setup has two halogen lamps that allows 5, 15 and 25 watt operation (with up to
two hour burntime, a little weaky weaky if you ask me but....it's halogen as requested).

Any better deals out there? Any better lights? What about bright LEDs that aren't
as expensive as HID?

I would lean toward Turbocat for the best halogen system around $200, specifically the S15 or S25 model (see link):

http://www.turbocatusa.com/config.html

Marwi is also good in that price range:

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/16258-225_MAWPE7-2-Accessories-35-Lights/Marwi-Nightpro-Pro-Elite-Light-System-offerIN070BB1.htm?zmam=3075515&zmas=1&zmac=20&zmap=16258

http://www.blueskycycling.com/view_product.php?pid=2788

http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/203/1352/3700?bestbikebuys=1

Edit: Forgot one more, Light and Motion Solo Logic:

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=15862

Thanks for the suggestion aliensporebomb.

I know that LED's have made a big jump this year and will do so again next year as the Seoul P4 LED starts showing up in some bike applications.

Here are a few possibilities in the Halogen group:

- NITERIDER CYCLOPS PREMIUM 15 Watt HEADLIGHT
- NIGHTSUN TRAIL BLAZER HELMET LIGHT SYSTEM
- VISTALITE VL-520 LIGHT SYSTEM
- LIGHT AND MOTION SOLO LOGIC

And some general manufacturers you can look up on your own
- TURBOCAT
- CATEYE
- SERFAS
- CYGOLITE

I've had good luck with the Marwi Nightpro Pro-Elite.

I'm mainly researching this for my wife. We've got a Performance Bike credit in the
neighborhood of $60 that I'd like to apply towards a real light for her.

The only reason I was able to afford an HID was my father-and-brother-in-law
basically gave me $ for my birthday so I went nuts and did that...

She's commuting with my old setup of two Cateye EL300s and one
TL-LD120-II rear blinky plus a free blinky she got from metro transit.

I rode ahead about half a mile to see how visible she was and let's just
say that from behind she was okay but from the front you had to look
for her.

Which really means motorists wouldn't see her until it was too late.

I've been commuting with her and by the time I get to my turnaround
point the sun is up enough to not need lighting but prior to that we
might as well be riding with blindfolds on if you don't have lights.
Thanks for the suggestions....

If anyone is aware if systems sold thru performance that you recommend that
would be great too - that credit would really help the pain in the wallet.

I always though the Niterider classic (http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=22894&subcategory_ID=4320) double was a good deal in lighting. 25 watts is about as much light as a Trail Tech HID puts out, so you'll be seen. The downside is the Trail Tech HID will last twice as long between charges

At performance bike you have a few decent options for halogen:

NiteRider HeadTrip
CygoLite Nitro XMP
NiteRider Trail Rat II
NiteRider TrailRat Select 15w

There are also several options for LED lights under 200 that use the newer generation of high intensity LED's. But you'll get more light out of the halogens for less money.

I'm mainly researching this for my wife. We've got a Performance Bike credit in the
neighborhood of $60 that I'd like to apply towards a real light for her.

If anyone is aware if systems sold thru performance that you recommend that
would be great too - that credit would really help the pain in the wallet.

Ok, looking at just what's available from performance, I'm liking the Cygolite DualCross 300. I've heard good things about this system, including runtime and the ability to blind motorists, etc. ;) However, this is a LED-based system and you said you wanted halogen. BTW, why is that? Just curious because I actually prefer halogen too; I find that the blue-white light of LEDs and HIDs damages my night vision whereas yellow-white light does not.

If not the Cygolite, I would then go with the Niterider Classic.

BTW a great place for these and other light reviews can be found here:
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/lights/

Edt: I just realized it was Grun who preferred the halogen, so nevermind ;)

Ok, looking at just what's available from performance, I'm liking the Cygolite DualCross 300. I've heard good things about this system, including runtime and the ability to blind motorists, etc. ;) However, this is a LED-based system and you said you wanted halogen. BTW, why is that? Just curious because I actually prefer halogen too; I find that the blue-white light of LEDs and HIDs damages my night vision whereas yellow-white light does not.

If not the Cygolite, I would then go with the Niterider Classic.

BTW a great place for these and other light reviews can be found here:
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/lights/

Edt: I just realized it was Grun who preferred the halogen, so nevermind ;)

Yeah the OP was the one who requested halogen. I'll check out the options, we're
ordering whatever it is tonight so we can have it soon before commuting gets too
cold/snowy/awful.

Basically, will be turning in the Rebels, but keeping the L2D CE for the helmet.

Does the L2D CE work well as a helmet beam light? Is it enough to get home if your primary light fails? Width of beam if it were your only light working?

Since I have reviewed the Fenix light thread I was considering a L2D CE or L2D Premium 100 (new since you purchased yours?) or L2T V2.0 (brand new). Which would you recommend?

Bike Nashbar has the Light and Motion Solo MV Li-ion on sale for $189 with free shipping. Read all the Solo reviews on Roadbikereview.com. The only difference between the models is the battery type/burn time.

Does the L2D CE work well as a helmet beam light? Is it enough to get home if your primary light fails? Width of beam if it were your only light working?

Since I have reviewed the Fenix light thread I was considering a L2D CE or L2D Premium 100 (new since you purchased yours?) or L2T V2.0 (brand new). Which would you recommend?

I would recommend the L2D Premium 100. I just got it a couple of days ago, and haven't tried it yet on the road, but with 2 hrs of battery life in turbo mode, and 175 lumens, it compares well in terms of light output to a pt Switchback 3(I compared the two side by side). The SB has more spill and a softer spot than the L2D, but the L2D is definitely a good enough light to get home on. One thing is that the L2d is definitely more of a spot light.