Cyclocross - Rob Roy group buy

I know that many of you are planning your builds, and noticed that Performance has their singlespeed wheel conversion kit on sale:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=23062&item=50-6550

I know that many of you are planning your builds, and noticed that Performance has their singlespeed wheel conversion kit on sale:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=23062&item=50-6550

Really should be no need for this, since the frame has horizontal dropouts. Unless you just want the cogs and spacers.

yeah... it's for converting frames with vertical dropouts.

The Rob Roy has Track Ends, not dropouts.

yeah... it's for converting frames with vertical dropouts.Egad you ultraclever dorks, yes it's 20 bucks for a set of spacers and cogs. If you can find a better deal, by all means take it, and if you have a track or BMX hub, Allah bless you.

Kit is really handy if you have a bike with a derailleur setup already, so you can sacrifice the rear wheel by converting it to a ss with a $20 kit instead of buying a $100+ rear wheel!

Ordered my 52cm in orange yesterday. Thanks to climbhoser for organizing this, and I'm glad you've come around!

Based on the last group buy time-frame, I'd say that you shouldn't expect these frames until February or March. Just in time for Cyclocross season to be over!

Well, that just simply means that we'll have to wait for next year's cyclocross season. That's plenty of time to work out the kinks on the IRO and fine-tune it into the perfect 'cross racing machine, isn't it? :p

I've seen a few people mentioning that this bike would be a great candidate for a touring bike with an internally geared hub... does anyone have any experience fitting such a hub to a Rob Roy? Is there the appropriate guides and are these kinds of hubs compatible with track ends? If so I'll seriously consider jumping in on the deal.

Cheers :beer:

A internal geared hub should work on track ends. I believe the cable is normally just zip tied to the the frame in this case. Been said before but the Sheldon Brown character has some track bikes with gear hub projects done. Just google him.

Well, I decided to just take the plunge on a 52cm black frame. I don't need a new bike right this minute anyway.

I've seen a few people mentioning that this bike would be a great candidate for a touring bike with an internally geared hub... does anyone have any experience fitting such a hub to a Rob Roy? Is there the appropriate guides and are these kinds of hubs compatible with track ends? If so I'll seriously consider jumping in on the deal.

Cheers :beer:

zip ties are the answer for cables. the width is right, too. being the guy who got this started and also being a guy who wants one with an IGH I can assure you it will work.

Now, I have a cross bike, but what I really want is a fixed gear, or possibly a singlespeed cross bike.

So I have two questions, and feel free to flame.

1. How would this be for fixed gear bike, I realized it has the setup for center pull, but really only have the intention of using a caliper style front brake anyways? (Thats what they cell as a complete, a singlespeed)

2. What type of threading is the bottom bracket? (total rookie, I can take a bike apart, put it back together, and tune them just fine) just don't know what type of threads they use. Riding an 06 Trek 1500.

Thanks in advance for all of your help

It intended as a fixed/ single speed cross bike, :).

Cantilever Brakes on this frame. No caliper style brakes.

English BB threads.

Just ordered a 56, in black, for my wife.

thanks for organizing this!

How long does IRO take to respond to emails submitted through their web form? I sent them a fit question a couple days ago. But I'd also like to get the opinion of the 'crossers here.

Currently my only bike is a hybrid with a 53.5cm C-C seat tube and a 57cm top tube. I initially thought to size the cross frame based on the top tube, but apparently flat-bar frames tend to have slightly long reach to compensate for the lack of drops. If I were to size based on the top tube I would get the 60cm Rob Roy, but if I were to size based on the seat tube I would get the 58cm. I think I could ride either with the right stem, but would it be better to go a little larger or a little smaller? I've included my WrenchScience fitting info below (which I think is meant for typical road fit, and not cross, correct?).

Thanks. And thank you, climbhoser, for setting this up. I've been eager to build a bike since I started riding again this year. This will be the perfect project.

WS Recommended Sizes

Frame Size center-to-center: 57 cm
Frame Size center-to-top: 59 cm
Overall Reach: 67.82 cm
Saddle Height: 77.38 cm
Handlebar Width: 44 cm


Your Measurements

Height: 70.50 in
Sternum Notch: 60.00 in
Inseam Length: 34.50 in
Arm Length: 24.75 in
Shoulder Width: 17.50 in
Flexiblity: 10
Weight: 153.00 lbs
Foot Size: 13.00 USMens

How long does IRO take to respond to emails submitted through their web form? I sent them a fit question a couple days ago. But I'd also like to get the opinion of the 'crossers here.

Currently my only bike is a hybrid with a 53.5cm C-C seat tube and a 57cm top tube. I initially thought to size the cross frame based on the top tube, but apparently flat-bar frames tend to have slightly long reach to compensate for the lack of drops. If I were to size based on the top tube I would get the 60cm Rob Roy, but if I were to size based on the seat tube I would get the 58cm. I think I could ride either with the right stem, but would it be better to go a little larger or a little smaller? I've included my WrenchScience fitting info below (which I think is meant for typical road fit, and not cross, correct?).

Thanks. And thank you, climbhoser, for setting this up. I've been eager to build a bike since I started riding again this year. This will be the perfect project.

WS Recommended Sizes

Frame Size center-to-center: 57 cm
Frame Size center-to-top: 59 cm
Overall Reach: 67.82 cm
Saddle Height: 77.38 cm
Handlebar Width: 44 cm


Your Measurements

Height: 70.50 in
Sternum Notch: 60.00 in
Inseam Length: 34.50 in
Arm Length: 24.75 in
Shoulder Width: 17.50 in
Flexiblity: 10
Weight: 153.00 lbs
Foot Size: 13.00 USMens

Get the 60

Can I jump in with a fit question too? I can only imagine that Tony is swamped with emails (or is just about as fond of answering them as I am) because I haven't heard back either.

I'm 5'4", and currently riding a hybrid w/flat bars (almost 29in standover, and 52.5cm effective top tube). I'm not looking to build this up as a cross bike, just a fixed commuter. Should I get the 52 or the 54? My hunch based on all the discussion in this thread is to get the 54, but I thought I'd check.

So I should trust my common sense reasoning, but I will ask more for anyone else that wondered the same thing. The quantity left on the group buy page is just a countdown to the required 100 for the build correct?

So I should trust my common sense reasoning, but I will ask more for anyone else that wondered the same thing. The quantity left on the group buy page is just a countdown to the required 100 for the build correct?

you know, I can only guess what that is, but I think you have the best guess.

All I know is that Tony wouldn't stop if there were more than 100 bikes to be sold!

you know, I can only guess what that is, but I think you have the best guess.

All I know is that Tony wouldn't stop if there were more than 100 bikes to be sold!

Well I hope so. I can't see a business man not wanting to sell his product. I also hope so because I need to wait for a paycheck.

What crank, BB and hub for a strait chainline? I'd like to run a NOS Dura Ace Square taper crank. Is there a fixed/fixed hub that will work?

What hub and crank/BB combo will you run?

Well I hope so. I can't see a business man not wanting to sell his product. I also hope so because I need to wait for a paycheck.

Same here. I hope the counter doesn't reach zero before I'm able to put in my deposit :(

On the last group buy, as soon as the first 100 sold, another 100 became available. I assume it's just the way that the software is configured, that there has to be 100 in each "batch" or some such. Don't worry, I'm confident that Tony's offering more than 100 frames.

On the last group buy, as soon as the first 100 sold, another 100 became available. I assume it's just the way that the software is configured, that there has to be 100 in each "batch" or some such. Don't worry, I'm confident that Tony's offering more than 100 frames.

Sweet, thanks for the experinced opinion. I knew he wasn't just selling 100, but I just had no solid reason to back up my instinct. I can def. go with the software idea.

ordered mine. decided on the 56 rather than the 58 - i wanted a little more standover room.

also posted the group buy on my local cycling club's Yahoo! group and mailing list.

Renny, you're almost the same dimensions as I am, and after a great deal of deliberation, I just decided to plunk down for the 60. I didn't use any fancy fit arithmetic to make this decision -- I just measured the bike that fits me the best.

Renny, you're almost the same dimensions as I am, and after a great deal of deliberation, I just decided to plunk down for the 60. I didn't use any fancy fit arithmetic to make this decision -- I just measured the bike that fits me the best.

I did a little 'o both, but I came to my decision the same way as yours. The bike that feels like the best fit for me from all the ones I've ridden thus far was a fixed gear/singlespeed (flip/flop hub) with a 550mm TT. That thing felt almost perfect (and it was "almost" because the saddle was set too low when I test rode it). It was a 54cm. Of course, if I wanna keep my 550mm TT on the Rob Roy, I have to size up, which is fine, because I can handle a 31" stand-over. In fact, my first road bike had a 31.5" standover :D

I changed my 60 to a 58 after riding a friends 58. I'm 6,1 and his felt AWESOME offroad. I'm going to use it for racing so the size should be cool. If I wasn't racing I'd get a 60.

Sorry if this has been asked, but is the fork that comes with the Rob Roy front rack capable?

I changed my 60 to a 58 after riding a friends 58. I'm 6,1 and his felt AWESOME offroad. I'm going to use it for racing so the size should be cool. If I wasn't racing I'd get a 60.


I've got a 33.5" cycling inseam and stand about 5'10" without trying too hard. I do have short-ish arms, but from your experience would you recommend the 56 or the 58 for me? Everything I've been told so far, and based only on theory (reading about the frame dimensions) the 58 sounded like the one. However, my doubts started a few days ago and you've reinforced them.

FWIW, I will be riding one of my frames as a commuter with an IGH, almost all road, and the other will be my weekend kicker and my SS 'Cross race bike. I could get one in each size, but if the 56 suits me more then maybe I should get both 56?

Whaddaya think?

Sorry if this has been asked, but is the fork that comes with the Rob Roy front rack capable?

If I remember correctly the rear has two braze on sets and the front has one. So, I don't know about configuring it for a rack AND fenders on the front, though it would certainly be capable of having one or the other easily enough.

Sorry if this has been asked, but is the fork that comes with the Rob Roy front rack capable?

No. Front fender braze-ons are different from front rack braze-ons. The RR only has front fender braze-ons.

I was going to "get in" but my frame ( shown in avatar ) is a Robs Royce... Hand made, Lugged, Dedacciai Zero Uno :)

It would just be greedy of me. :D

I was going to "get in" but my frame ( shown in avatar ) is a Robs Royce... Hand made, Lugged, Dedacciai Zero Uno :)

It would just be greedy of me. :D

How would that disc hold up in a cross race.;)

I've got a 33.5" cycling inseam and stand about 5'10" without trying too hard. I do have short-ish arms, but from your experience would you recommend the 56 or the 58 for me? Everything I've been told so far, and based only on theory (reading about the frame dimensions) the 58 sounded like the one. However, my doubts started a few days ago and you've reinforced them.

FWIW, I will be riding one of my frames as a commuter with an IGH, almost all road, and the other will be my weekend kicker and my SS 'Cross race bike. I could get one in each size, but if the 56 suits me more then maybe I should get both 56?

Whaddaya think?

I'm slightly taller than you, with a slightly longer inseam, short arms, etc. In the SS/FG group buy I went with a 56 after much debate. The long TT was certainly the big sizing issue for me. I'm almost 50 and not as flexible as I used to be, so the slightly shorter head tube on the 56 means I'm going to need a stack of spacers to get the bars up to a reasonable height, even with a 73 degree stem, flipped. (The bike isn't finished, yet.) A lot of the discussion here seems to focus on the ST, not the TT, but unless you can find a really short stem the longer TT of a 58 is going to hurt you more than having a little extra seatpost showing with a 56.

I'm slightly taller than you, with a slightly longer inseam, short arms, etc. In the SS/FG group buy I went with a 56 after much debate. The long TT was certainly the big sizing issue for me. I'm almost 50 and not as flexible as I used to be, so the slightly shorter head tube on the 56 means I'm going to need a stack of spacers to get the bars up to a reasonable height, even with a 73 degree stem, flipped. (The bike isn't finished, yet.) A lot of the discussion here seems to focus on the ST, not the TT, but unless you can find a really short stem the longer TT of a 58 is going to hurt you more than having a little extra seatpost showing with a 56.


Gotcha...

I've just changed my mind and I'm going to get a 56. Thanks.

I'm slightly taller than you, with a slightly longer inseam, short arms, etc. In the SS/FG group buy I went with a 56 after much debate. The long TT was certainly the big sizing issue for me. I'm almost 50 and not as flexible as I used to be, so the slightly shorter head tube on the 56 means I'm going to need a stack of spacers to get the bars up to a reasonable height, even with a 73 degree stem, flipped. (The bike isn't finished, yet.) A lot of the discussion here seems to focus on the ST, not the TT, but unless you can find a really short stem the longer TT of a 58 is going to hurt you more than having a little extra seatpost showing with a 56.I'm not convinced you made the correct decision. Basing the size strictly on top tube (or even "effective" top tube) ignores the fact that a longer seatpost moves the saddle away from the handlebars, in both the horizontal and vertical directions. So with your spacers and riser stem, you might be kluging something that was more naturally attained through a larger frame.

Case study:
The difference in top tube between the Rob Roy 56 and 60 models is 2cm (55cm vs 57cm). Most standard stems give a 6cm range (70mm to 130mm) to play with. And remember that for a given rider, the change in true cockpit length (seat to handlebar) between the 56 and 60 will turn out to be less than 2cm, because the rider will have to use 4cm more seatpost with the smaller frame. And also note that for a given cockpit length, one with lower bars will feel longer than one with higher bars, because you are bent over more.

This is funny:

My old road bike was a 56 with a C-T of 52cm and a TT of 56cm
The Rob Roy 58 has a C-C of 54cm and a TT of 56cm.
Rob Roy 56 has a C-C of 52cm and a TT of 55cm.

My old road bike was comfortable. I just changed back to a 58!

This is funny:

My old road bike was a 56 with a C-T of 52cm and a TT of 56cm
The Rob Roy 58 has a C-C of 54cm and a TT of 56cm.
Rob Roy 56 has a C-C of 52cm and a TT of 55cm.

My old road bike was comfortable. I just changed back to a 58!I still claim that applying Lemond's .67 formula to the IRO nominal frame size is a good method. In your case:
33.5 x 2.54 x .67 = 57.01

In other words, exactly half-way between the sizes, to two decimal places! :D

Yeah, but Lemond's formula says inseam X .65 for C-C like Tony's bikes, which puts me at 55.3.

Also, look at the C-C measurement, not the size listed. So, I'm actually supposed to be on a bigger bike than the 58 if you go that way.

Same goes for my old road bike...I should've been on a 61 because it has a 57cm C-T.

However, the 58 felt long for me, and even though I have a 57cm C-T measurement I went with the 56 (and a 52cm C-T) because the top tube felt shorter and I could reach.

I think it's all screwy, to be honest, but I'm going to defer to Tony, the product expert, who told me to get on a 58 and the fact that I know I'd rather contend with a high standover than have to spacer the stem up to me.

climbhoser -
I guess it's personal preference. I don't know how sfcrossrider feels comfortable on a 58 ... I'm 6'0" and I rode a friend's 58 and my knees were hitting my elbows. I'm definitely getting a 60 and at least a 110mm stem. The stem on my friend's bike was pretty short, but still, I felt all scrunched up.
My Volpe has a 58 cm tt, 120mm stem, and bullhorns, which puts me a little stretched out. with drops on it it feels perfect for me, but for 'cross I'll probably get a shorter stem or one with a little more rise.
Either way, I usually ride a 58, and am definitely going with the 60cm on this buy.

edit: climbhoser, I didn't see that you'd changed your mind back again before posting.

Yeah, but Lemond's formula says inseam X .65 for C-C like Tony's bikes, which puts me at 55.3.That formula is for traditional road bikes with horizontal top tube. The Rob Roy has sloping top tube, which accounts for part of the difference between the seat tube measurement and the nominal size. IRO's nominal size, as far as I can tell, is equivalent to the size you would get in a traditional frame measured C-T, which is the traditional method of sizing frames.

Soma does a similar thing with its sizing for its road race bike:
http://somafab.com/geometry03.html
"The Smoothie is given a virtual sizing, so it is easier to compare with traditional, non-compact geometry bikes."

Notice that actual seat tube C-T is 57cm for Soma's 60cm frame. While the Rob Roy actual seat tube C-C is 56cm for the 60cm frame. Very compatible. And in both bikes, actual top tube runs about 2cm shorter than nominal size.

Which is why I say that applying Lemond's .67 formula to the IRO nominal (or "virtual" as Soma calls it) frame size is a good method.

P.S. It seems like most every company publishes an "effective" top tube measurement -- i.e. the top tube length if it were horizontal. (IRO, ironically, being an exception.) I wish every company also published an effective seat tube.

climbhoser -
I guess it's personal preference. I don't know how sfcrossrider feels comfortable on a 58 ... I'm 6'0" and I rode a friend's 58 and my knees were hitting my elbows. I'm definitely getting a 60 and at least a 110mm stem. The stem on my friend's bike was pretty short, but still, I felt all scrunched up.
My Volpe has a 58 cm tt, 120mm stem, and bullhorns, which puts me a little stretched out. with drops on it it feels perfect for me, but for 'cross I'll probably get a shorter stem or one with a little more rise.
Either way, I usually ride a 58, and am definitely going with the 60cm on this buy.

edit: climbhoser, I didn't see that you'd changed your mind back again before posting.

My friends 58 has a 120mm stem and a laid back post. I'm 6,1 with monkey arms and his bike cut singletrack like a kinfe. I'm also going to be using this bike for sscx racing. I'd rather have an offroad race bike that's on the small side than on the large. Most people I see on cx bikes are on bike that are too big.

That formula is for traditional road bikes with horizontal top tube. The Rob Roy has sloping top tube.

If this frame has any appreciable slope, I certainly can't see it.

http://www.irofixedgear.com/ProductImages/robroy1_MED.jpg

Is that an out of date picture? If the top tube is in fact sloping and the published measurements are along the tube, that really messes up my sizing considerations.

sfcross - yeah, I suppose that if my friend's 58 was set up like that I'd fit on it a bit better. I'm just going to be commuting ~ 24 rt, all roads and paved trail, so I'm not too concerned about getting one a little large.

the slope on the top tube is less than .5cm from front to back. it's essentially level.

I'm going to jump in on requesting fit advice because I'm torn between the 56 (31" standover) and the 58 (32" standover.) I'm 5'10 with a 32" inseam. So although based on frame measurments, I'd probably opt for the 58, which most closely matches my current ride, I wouldn't want the frame cramping my crotchstyle. Should I be worried about the standover on the 58, and just go with a 56 and a longer stem?

I'm going to jump in on requesting fit advice because I'm torn between the 56 (31" standover) and the 58 (32" standover.) I'm 5'10 with a 32" inseam. So although based on frame measurments, I'd probably opt for the 58, which most closely matches my current ride, I wouldn't want the frame cramping my crotchstyle. Should I be worried about the standover on the 58, and just go with a 56 and a longer stem?


Is 32" your pants inseam or your pubic bone measurement?

I only ask because I, too, am 5'10" and I have a 33.5 cycling inseam and I always thought I had short legs. I DO have short arms, like a T-Rex only thicker.

If 32" is your pubic bone measurement then I would get a 56, unless you have ridiculously long arms.

If this frame has any appreciable slope, I certainly can't see it.

http://www.irofixedgear.com/ProductImages/robroy1_MED.jpg

Is that an out of date picture? If the top tube is in fact sloping and the published measurements are along the tube, that really messes up my sizing considerations.That photo is tilted to the right:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i6/heatherandsteve/Projects/robroy1_MED.jpg
The photo below isn't perfectly level, but is easier to visualize. If my MS-Paint skeelz were better, I'd do something niftier.
http://www.irofixedgear.com/ProductImages/robroybike_complete_LRG.jpg

Is 32" your pants inseam or your pubic bone measurement?

I only ask because I, too, am 5'10" and I have a 33.5 cycling inseam and I always thought I had short legs. I DO have short arms, like a T-Rex only thicker.

If 32" is your pubic bone measurement then I would get a 56, unless you have ridiculously long arms.

Actually, I think 32" is my pants inseam. I just measured PB inseam (using the book between the legs, right?) which came out to 33". I never though I had short legs until now. I guess I'll deal with a 58... I'm going to use this as a commuter.

Thanks.