Cyclocross - Rob Roy group buy

Actually, I think 32" is my pants inseam. I just measured PB inseam (using the book between the legs, right?) which came out to 33".33 x 2.54 x .67 = 56.16
You might want to re-measure PBH with an assistant just to make sure.
http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_fit/pbh_and_how_to_measure_it

sfcross - yeah, I suppose that if my friend's 58 was set up like that I'd fit on it a bit better. I'm just going to be commuting ~ 24 rt, all roads and paved trail, so I'm not too concerned about getting one a little large.


The 60 sounds like a great choice for an all around bike for a six footer. If I wasn't racing it I'd get a 60.

jaggd,

You could easily do either. I'm your height, a wee bit more on the inseam and I'm doing 58s. I was thinking I would do a 56 for my race bike, but IROs bikes are just so small for the sizing that I think I'll be happier on a 58. I'm between...but, one thing I know is I'm doing a 58 for my commuter.

I'm 5'10" with a 30" pants inseam.

I have a 53cm Angus that would be perfect for me if I ran a taller quill stem. Seems like people ride too-big bikes...I tried to err on the "small" size this time around.

1) you can always add reach / post setback.
2) fat knobbies will take a bite out of the top tube clearance.

A person could buy two frames and sell the one that does not fit. The price is low enough.

I'm 5'10" with a 30" pants inseam.

I have a 53cm Angus that would be perfect for me if I ran a taller quill stem. Seems like people ride too-big bikes...I tried to err on the "small" size this time around.

1) you can always add reach / post setback.
2) fat knobbies will take a bite out of the top tube clearance.

Good points. If you're going to use this bike on alot of singletrack, I'd get a size smaller. When was the last time you saw a MTB that was the size of a road bike... the 80's??? :D

With all due respect, if you're going to use the bike on a lot of singletrack, get a mountain bike and not a cross bike.

Standover is about the silliest metric to use when selecting a frame. If standover is really a problem, then the bike will be too big in other ways.

Pants inseam is about two to three inches shorter than PBH, so 30" converts to (say) 33" which converts to 56cm frame which explains why you'd want a tall quill stem on a 53cm frame.

The problem with a too-small frame is that the seat will be way higher than the bars, unless you kluge some riser-stem setup. The too-small frame works for Ryan Trebon . . . but does he actually spend any time in the drops?

I'm having a hell of a time fitting my cx bike to me because it's a little too small. If I put the seat anywhere but fully forward on the rails my knees are so far behind the pedals they hurt. The seatpost isn't up that high but it's up higher than it was meant to be, really, and so I'm too far behind the pedals, the handlebars are too low... it's a major pain in the butt. This is a basically traditional (not compact) frame and too small is killing me. Folks may not have the same problem but believe me, too small can be just as bad as too big.

I'm having a hell of a time fitting my cx bike to me because it's a little too small. If I put the seat anywhere but fully forward on the rails my knees are so far behind the pedals they hurt. The seatpost isn't up that high but it's up higher than it was meant to be, really, and so I'm too far behind the pedals, the handlebars are too low... it's a major pain in the butt. This is a basically traditional (not compact) frame and too small is killing me. Folks may not have the same problem but believe me, too small can be just as bad as too big.


Piggybacking off that:

I had a bike that was too small for a while and I thought it was doable, albeit a touch uncomfortable. So, I rode it and after a few months my back went all out of whack and I developed a terrible case of sciatica. I went to an MD, totally not connecting my biking position and my back problem, and the MD happened to be a big rider, too. When he found out I rode he asked me to bring my bike in and show him my position. Immediately he knew what was wrong and prescribed a better riding position if I was going to be riding all day.

So, I traded up a size and my back felt immediately better.

Unlike many people I actually like a more upright position...or, rather, I say that because my arms are so short that I usually have to have risers and an angled stem to be comfortable on the right sized bike. Going too big stretches me out and doesn't always solve the problem.

But, I would rather be on a too big RR (thanks to the short TT) than a too small one for sure.

[QUOTE=flargle;5255664]With all due respect, if you're going to use the bike on a lot of singletrack, get a mountain bike and not a cross bike.

Then it wouldn't be a CYCLOCROSS race. :rolleyes:

How would that disc hold up in a cross race.;)

Oh, that's not my wheelset. I have Velocity Fusions that I am lacing up to Level hubs for that frame. :eek:

can't wait to get that going.

So my amazing girlfriend is paying the deposit as my anniversary gift. (shes a keeper). As soon as I go to the bank tommorow I'm ordering my frame. I've psyched myself out about sizing too. I'm pretty sure on a 56, my intention is a cross bike, hopefully racing. However I still really want to get this right (I am 5'8", I don't remember my exact inseam but its 31-32). I am going to go by the lbs and see what their opinion is as well.

(I am 5'8", I don't remember my exact inseam but its 31-32).How about taking the five frickin' minutes to measure your pubic bone height before spending your girlfriend's money?

Egad when did they start letting the slow adults on the interwebs.

so with all this talk about too small a bike and what problems that causes, what if the bike is too big? assuming you can slam the seat down and still pedal correctly, what else is bad about too big a frame?

How about taking the five frickin' minutes to measure your pubic bone height before spending your girlfriend's money?

Egad when did they start letting the slow adults on the interwebs.

What's the need for that. Take the five frickin' minutes to learn some manners. Fitting these frames has had less to do with inseam and more to do with average size and purpose. Those two bits of information I provided. Just because you seem to believe strongly in Lemond's formula does not mean that other's may have opinions based on other ideas that I would find useful. Get on a bike and cheer up.

With that said unless someone else has other input, or results at the lbs tomorrow say otherwise, i'm reserving a black 56. I'll inform those who wish to know the results of the lbs trip tommorow (with a proper set of measurements for those who care). Thank you Adam for your time spent putting this together. Now comes the anxiety of planning the build and waiting for the frame.

so with all this talk about too small a bike and what problems that causes, what if the bike is too big? assuming you can slam the seat down and still pedal correctly, what else is bad about too big a frame?

The bike will turn slow and ride like a big boat.

Let me add some context. Some other road bikes I've owned:

- 53cm '86 Bianchi Strada LX. Felt tiny, cramped with 80mm stem.

- 55cm '91 Miyata 914. Felt a tad too long with 90mm stem.


So a 53cm top tube Rob Roy with ~100mm stem sounds perfect. Right?

So if the bike is too small, will it then be too fast? :eek:

What's the need for that. Take the five frickin' minutes to learn some manners. Fitting these frames has had less to do with inseam and more to do with average size and purpose. Those two bits of information I provided. Just because you seem to believe strongly in Lemond's formula does not mean that other's may have opinions based on other ideas that I would find useful. Get on a bike and cheer up.Sorry for being a bit testy last night, but PBH actually is the most important single metric in sizing a frame. Not the only one, of course. And I don't get how people are asking for sizing advice without making careful measurements first.

If you want a third opinion, use Zinn's online calculator:
http://zinncycles.com/fitsystems/default_ie.aspx
Pay attention to how the measurements are made:
http://zinncycles.com/fitsystems/DimensionPage.aspx
There's a bit of a fudge factor because the Zinn results will be for a traditional frame. But as I've argued before, the seat tube length (top number under "Road Bike") corresponds to the nominal IRO frame size.

For a fourth opinion, read the retrogrouch manifesto on frame sizing. This one has a lot of editorial content:
http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_fit/choosing_a_frame_size

Dave Moulton, former frame builder, believes rider height is the single most important metric.

http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2006/02/different-thought-on-frame-sizing.html
http://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle6.htm

Dave Moulton, former frame builder, believes rider height is the single most important metric.
http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2006/02/different-thought-on-frame-sizing.html
http://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle6.htmInteresting site. Of course, there is no one right answer, because fitting an individual to a pre-made frame involves compromises. I still say PBH is more important:
1. If you fit using PBH, then the saddle height is correct in relationship to handlebar height. And standard stem sizes range from 70 to 130mm, a range of over two inches, to adjust cockpit length.
2. It doesn't matter whether you use overall height or PBH for a person of average build, so we're talking about people with unusually long or short legs (in comparison to torso). A person with long (short) legs usually also has long (short) arms, which at least partially compensates for the short (long) torso.

It's alright. I do understand the importance of pbh, and trying to find the ideal fit for a roadie. My concern more for the cross bike is that for the most part what I have read is that a cross bike shouldn't fit like a roadie. So, I do agree now that I need to get a good careful set of measurements to decide my ideal roadie, and then modify that from there for the RR cross build. Hell, I might even find a better fit than my roadie now.


Sorry for being a bit testy last night, but PBH actually is the most important single metric in sizing a frame. Not the only one, of course. And I don't get how people are asking for sizing advice without making careful measurements first.

Anyone else get charged for the deposit twice? I just checked my bank statement and there's two $60 charges from IRO, each with different auth#. Looks like I'll need to give Tony a call...

The 60 sounds like a great choice for an all around bike for a six footer. If I wasn't racing it I'd get a 60.

The problem with that is the standover on the 60 is 32.5, with an inseam measurement of 33", the 60 is too big. I hope everyone is doing their research and not getting a frame that is too big... Make sure you ask the manufacturer what to buy... I have a 33" measured inseam, I am 6ft tall and IRO recommended the 58. I would not consider the 60 due solely to the 32.5" standover, there is not enough clearance and no reason for such a large bike, touring or otherwise...

The problem with that is the standover on the 60 is 32.5, with an inseam measurement of 33", the 60 is too big. I hope everyone is doing their research and not getting a frame that is too big... Make sure you ask the manufacturer what to buy... I have a 33" measured inseam, I am 6ft tall and IRO recommended the 58. I would not consider the 60 due solely to the 32.5" standover, there is not enough clearance and no reason for such a large bike, touring or otherwise...

Is your inseam a pubic bone height measurement or your pants size?

I only ask because I don't think of myself as having particularly long legs, but I'm 5'10" with a 33-33.5" inseam for cycling. My pants are 30" OTOH.

Ususally I'm the guy that gets flak for my short legs and short pants.

I was told 58 by Tony as well. I'm considering a 58 for commuting/touring and a 56 for 'cross racing.

Anyone know what the tire clearance is on the current Rob Roy? The web site said 32 with fender or 35 without, but an online review claimed 42 or something. Anyone have recent direct experience?

yeah, I called Monday and asked Tony if the RR will take 35mm studs with a sks 45 fender...he said the clearance would be really tight...35 tires no fenders ok and 32 with fenders...

do you have the link for the review??

Ok so hopefully I can help some with some straight data. I went to the lbs today for a full fit measurement and advice. Heres the deal:
Inseam: 82cm=32.6in
Thigh: 32cm
Arm Length: 64cm
Torso: 63cm
Height 5'8.5" (have other measurements but not really important for frame)

My recommended road seat tube is 53.8, top-tube from 54.6 with a 110-120 stem to 56.6 with a 90 stem. Final decision for the RR, intended for cross racing, is the 54. With that I'm going to stop typing here and go order!
Edit: I was told that I have a very uniform set of measurements, meaning nothing is unusually short or long. Hope this helps for anyone my size.

Here's another online fit calculator, with instructions on how to take the measurements.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

I didn't see details on the IRO page, I'd like to know, does the Rob Roy use cable stops and force you to have exposed cable or does in have cable guides that'll allow you to run a full housing all the way to the cantilever stop in the rear?

Thanks for checking. I guess I'll take Tony's word on the spacing. Sounds like he may not want to exaggerate, so he's giving a slightly conservative estimate (32/35).

37 Pasella fits and speculation about a 42 according to:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=221451
Maybe Pasella runs small.

So if the bike is too small, will it then be too fast? :eek:

Yes. And that's a bad thing is you want a stable touring bike.

Thanks for checking. I guess I'll take Tony's word on the spacing. Sounds like he may not want to exaggerate, so he's giving a slightly conservative estimate (32/35).

37 Pasella fits and speculation about a 42 according to:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=221451
Maybe Pasella runs small.


hey thanks for the link, I hope Tony was being conservative...sure would like to put a set of nokians and fenders on the rr

I'm 5'8.5"
I ordered a 54. My road bike has a 55cm tt, and I wanted to size down a cm or so, b/c I want to ride it in the dirt. I think that the 56 would work fine, too, with the right bar / stem combo.

I didn't get in the other group buy,

Does anyone know if Tony notifies you when the frames will be shipped?

Also I am mailing in my deposit, anyone know Tony's last name?

I didn't get in the other group buy,

Does anyone know if Tony notifies you when the frames will be shipped?

Also I am mailing in my deposit, anyone know Tony's last name?

Portera

I just thought I'd weigh in to say that I've got a Rob Roy and I run the WTB 700x38 Interwolf tires and have just enough clearance for a little mud, about 5mm per side. I ride it on single track pretty regularly and I love it. I think I'll have to get another one in black. I'm not so in love with the ketchup red color of mine but it's still my favorite ride in the stable. For what it's worth I'm 5'6" and have a 52cm and like the fit for whipping it through the trees.

I'm 5'8.5"
I ordered a 54. My road bike has a 55cm tt, and I wanted to size down a cm or so, b/c I want to ride it in the dirt. I think that the 56 would work fine, too, with the right bar / stem combo.

Interesting. I'm about your height and I also feel most comfortable with a 55cm TT on a road bike. It is a good idea to get the 54cm if goin' cross, but seeing as how 99% of my riding is on paved roads, I plan on getting the 56cm instead :D

I just thought I'd weigh in to say that I've got a Rob Roy and I run the WTB 700x38 Interwolf tires and have just enough clearance for a little mud, about 5mm per side. I ride it on single track pretty regularly and I love it. I think I'll have to get another one in black. I'm not so in love with the ketchup red color of mine but it's still my favorite ride in the stable. For what it's worth I'm 5'6" and have a 52cm and like the fit for whipping it through the trees.That's great to hear rystone. I'm also the same height and I'm getting a 52 as well. I asked this question before, but didn't see an answer. Does the frame have cable stops that force you to run exposed cable, or can you run full length housing all the way to the brakes?

I didn't see details on the IRO page, I'd like to know, does the Rob Roy use cable stops and force you to have exposed cable or does in have cable guides that'll allow you to run a full housing all the way to the cantilever stop in the rear?

It looks like stops in this photo:

http://www.imgred.com/http://www.irofixedgear.com/ProductImages/robroybike_complete_LRG.jpg

Thanks, you're right.

Thanks, you're right, it sure looks like stops rather than guides.

Is there any word on the paint finish for the black frames? Flat black or gloss black finish?

I just thought I'd weigh in to say that I've got a Rob Roy and I run the WTB 700x38 Interwolf tires and have just enough clearance for a little mud, about 5mm per side. I ride it on single track pretty regularly and I love it. I think I'll have to get another one in black. I'm not so in love with the ketchup red color of mine but it's still my favorite ride in the stable. For what it's worth I'm 5'6" and have a 52cm and like the fit for whipping it through the trees.

Most bikes have more tire clearance at the fork than the back, is that the case with your RR? A 38 should be big enough for any place you want to go on a rigid bike but even bigger and softer in front is better.

I'm thinking to do mine with mustache bars, diacompe levers, V brakes and the fattest tires I can stuff in there and terrorize the local armadillo population.

Interesting. I'm about your height and I also feel most comfortable with a 55cm TT on a road bike. It is a good idea to get the 54cm if goin' cross, but seeing as how 99% of my riding is on paved roads, I plan on getting the 56cm instead :D

Yeah, it was a tough call. I also noticed that the seat tube angle was 1/2 degree steeper on the 54. So if you are putting your saddle in the same spot relative to the pedals, the reach will only be 1/2 cm difference b/t the sizes. That's a half of a stem size. I think that the bigger difference will be head tube height, and I don't mind cutting the steerer tube long, using a geeky riser stem if needed, and shallow drops. If I thought that flat bars were going on there, I'd definitely go 56.

Most bikes have more tire clearance at the fork than the back, is that the case with your RR? A 38 should be big enough for any place you want to go on a rigid bike but even bigger and softer in front is better.

don't know whether front or back is more roomy, but a 38 should be fine up front and in back. some brands' 40 might fit too. in the back with the wheel about halfway back in the dropouts the clearance is huge.


I don't mind cutting the steerer tube long, using a geeky riser stem if needed, and shallow drops.

hear ****ing hear.

ok i have no clue what size to get. i'm 5'10", i have about a 32 inch inseam i ride a track bike with a 54.5 top tube and a 90mm stem. my road bike supposedly has the same top tube with a 100mm stem and the reach feels too long. i think i have short limbs and a long torso but i don't know. i'm thinking i should go with the 54 so i have room for stem adjustment, but i dunno exactly. anyone have any insight?

ok i have no clue what size to get. i'm 5'10", i have about a 32 inch inseam i ride a track bike with a 54.5 top tube and a 90mm stem. my road bike supposedly has the same top tube with a 100mm stem and the reach feels too long. i think i have short limbs and a long torso but i don't know. i'm thinking i should go with the 54 so i have room for stem adjustment, but i dunno exactly. anyone have any insight?

Are you sure you have a 32" CYCLING inseam? If it's your pants inseam then we're talking about a different thing.

Assuming it is your cycling inseam I would say yeah, you have short-ish legs at least, and probably arms too. It's a pretty tough call, but you could do the 56 with a shorter stem pretty easily and it wouldn't feel too big. I worry that the 54 would feel too short and you'd have to really jack up the seat post and cut the steering tube long with spacers. No biggie, but it can be avoided if you get the right size.

I think to be safe I'd get the 56 and look for shorter stems.

I wouldn't assume that short legs = short arms. I have long legs & short arms. Short legs for a given height could mean long torso (that height is coming from somewhere, right?), so a long TT might not matter as much as the "SL=SA" theory would make you think. A long torso compensates for the shorter arms in this case. Having said that, I agree with a 56. :)

Best thing to do is to check with one of the sites that help you measure yourself & determine the best dimensions for your body.

Can someone give a status update? Was a there a price given yet? Color? Estimated delivery time?