Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - DiNotte 200L plus Ultra Tail Light with No Charger/No Batteries?

Out of curiosity, is it possible to purchase the combination of the DiNotte 200L and the DiNotte Ultra Tail Light at slightly less cost if purchased without the chargers and NiMH batteries?

I do quite a bit of photography and have a very nice 8-battery Maha charger and lots of 2500 mAh batteries at my disposal (along with several other unused chargers, the number of which I'd like to avoid increasing).

So...if these can be purchased without the normally included chargers and batteries, where is the best-bet place for purchasing? Directly from DiNotte? I don't actually see the 200L listed on their site, so perhaps a direct inquiry to the company is needed. But if anyone has a bit of related info that would be helpful in answering my questions, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks in advance for any feedback... :)

geoman will give you a special price without chargers and batteries, just email him what you want..

http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4&zenid=d03d7e47cf9ec5fa2d534494c44063b1

I have found that the duracell 2650 nimh are best solid performers out there and they are easily found..

you can also pm here on BF: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=251659

Thanks for all three pieces of info, socalrider. I sure appreciate it.

I had actually wandered over to geoman's site and looked it over, but hadn't realized my what I was asking about was one of the possibilities. I'll definitely contact him about it.

Thanks again...

Out of curiosity, is it possible to purchase the combination of the DiNotte 200L and the DiNotte Ultra Tail Light at slightly less cost if purchased without the chargers and NiMH batteries?

I do quite a bit of photography and have a very nice 8-battery Maha charger and lots of 2500 mAh batteries at my disposal (along with several other unused chargers, the number of which I'd like to avoid increasing).

So...if these can be purchased without the normally included chargers and batteries, where is the best-bet place for purchasing? Directly from DiNotte? I don't actually see the 200L listed on their site, so perhaps a direct inquiry to the company is needed. But if anyone has a bit of related info that would be helpful in answering my questions, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks in advance for any feedback... :)

Wha model Maha do you have? The 808S or 808Pro? How do you like it?

Also contact Rob at Dinotte. He will give good deals and often some extras to keep your unit going. He will accomedate any order/custom.

I think he said the 200L would be $140 USD without a charger. I forgot so don't quote me. The ballpark sounds right but I'll have to find that email agian.

Wha model Maha do you have? The 808S or 808Pro? How do you like it?

I'm actually not using the very latest and greatest available as my Maha charger is a couple of years old now (I'm considering adding a slightly more updated unit, though, after having used my current model for a couple of years). The one I use doesn't actually help you with monitoring rechargeable battery overall life (to help you determine which cells are eventually failing after long-term use), and I'd like a charger that has that function. I'm not at all unhappy with the Maha I'm using, though, and think it was a great buy as one of my personal "recommended" items.

I've got the MH-C801D. I got mine from Thomas Distributing (http://www.thomasdistributing.com/), who sells a lot of this kind of stuff and is great price-wise. The MH-C801D will charge up to eight AA or AAA batteries at a time (even mixed together, if desired) and has three charging modes (Rapid, Soft, and Conditioning modes).

Here's the one I use:

Maha MH-C801D (http://www.thomasdistributing.com/maha-mh-c801d-battery-charger.htm)

The next up from that is the Maha MH-C808M which will charge AAA, AA, C and D batteries (simultaneously, if desired).

Maha MH-C808M (http://www.thomasdistributing.com/maha-mh-c808m-battery-charger.htm)

Higher-end capabilities are encompassed by the Maha MH-C9000, but it'll charge only 4 batteries at a time.

Maha MH-C9000 (http://thomasdistributing.com/shop/-maha-mhc9000-battery-charger-combo-kitbrincludes-4-maha-aa-2700-batteriesbr1-four-cell-battery-holder-storage-case-p-540.html?SP_id=&osCsid=e8c3e0630eb54b83178026923c0dccc2)

One of the nice but exceptionally inexpensive things I get from Thomas Distributing is their plastic battery holders, which weigh next to nothing and fit sets of 4 or 8 batteries like a glove. (The 8 battery holder actually weighs in at about 18 grams or about the weight of a single AA battery.) They're a buck or two apiece and well worth having for carrying extra batteries. Thomas Distributing will send you a couple of those free with the Maha chargers, but here's a link to the ones I've bought extras of (if you buy only one of these battery cases, you'll pay something like $7 shipping, but if you buy them in bunches, like 4 cases at a time or so, shipping drops to about a buck and a half). The version that holds 8 batteries has a more positive latching mechanism and the cases will not come open accidentally. The version that holds 4 batteries has a less robust method of clipping closed.

Maha 8-Cell Plastic Battery Holder (http://thomasdistributing.com/shop/maha-powerex-8-cell-plasticbrrechargeable-battery-holderbrfor-aa-aaa-rechargeable-batteriesbrbatteries-not-includedbritem-discounts-shipping-on-entire-order-p-380.html?SP_id=&osCsid=e8c3e0630eb54b83178026923c0dccc2)

As a side note the steves-digicams.com site has a pretty good evaluation section for battery and charger comparisons here:

Steve's Digicams Rechargeable Batteries (http://www.steves-digicams.com/nimh_batteries.html)

Also contact Rob at Dinotte. He will give good deals and often some extras to keep your unit going. He will accomedate any order/custom.

Thanks, Zero_Enigma, I appreciate the additional contact info.

I also PM'ed GeoMan last night and got a response before daybreak (or thereabouts) this morning. Quick response! (Wanted to mention how the response to my questions was.) He's working on seeing what he can do and will let me know. Sounds pretty good, though, in terms of being able to get what's wanted in my particular case.

Thanks, Zero_Enigma, I appreciate the additional contact info.

I also PM'ed GeoMan last night and got a response before daybreak (or thereabouts) this morning. Quick response! (Wanted to mention how the response to my questions was.) He's working on seeing what he can do and will let me know. Sounds pretty good, though, in terms of being able to get what's wanted in my particular case.

Just so you know I'mnot affliated with Dinotte tho I love the eye candy of thier lights. :D BTW How true is that Maha 801 to the 1hr/2hr fast/slow spec on charging 2500's? I have been looking at Thomas for a few years now and have see the Maha products grow. I have posted on Steve's as well. The 9000 is nice but there have been some comments about some features of the Lacrosse BC900 that are not on the 9000 and vice versa.

If I had the coinage I'd get a 808 for bulk charge (camera guy here as well) + 204W for the reviving of older cells and compact carry + 9000 for diagnostics when I have more time as I think it said it can take up to 48hrs to fully check a cycle. I could be wrong on that.

Just so you know I'mnot affliated with Dinotte..

As I'm not affiliated with Maha or Thomas Distributing, although from the length of my post it might seem otherwise... ;)

Just a satisfied customer.



BTW How true is that Maha 801 to the 1hr/2hr fast/slow spec on charging 2500's? I have been looking at Thomas for a few years now and have see the Maha products grow. I have posted on Steve's as well. The 9000 is nice but there have been some comments about some features of the Lacrosse BC900 that are not on the 9000 and vice versa.

On the quick charging mode, it's not something I test often since it's been my impression that with most chargers doing a quick charge heats up the batteries too much, which I think can shorten their overall life. It's good thing for occasional use, but I'm not sure I'd be comfortable using it all the time (and it does seem to charge them pretty fast, not far off from the specs as stated I don't think). That's the impression I have, in any case, and man I've felt "quick charge" batteries come out of quick chargers so hot you almost couldn't hold them. For the most part, I try to time things such that I can use either the Soft Charge mode or occasionally the Reconditioning mode when I can. That's one of the things I like about the 8-battery capacity on the C801D. Even on Soft Charge, 8 batteries at a time usually takes only a few hours and I can fully charge a set of 16 overnight. When I know I'll need them the next day, I'll put a set of 8 in around dinner time and another set of 8 before bedtime, and the next day I'm good to go with 16 fully charged AA batteries.

I almost never need anything besides rechargeable AA or AAA batteries, but if I did I'd likely want that Maha C808M for its versatility.

And on the comparisons with the Maha 9000 and the Lacrosse BC900, truthfully I've not kept up with much on the discussions, so I don't know the latest and greatest pros and cons of the different models like those. But now I suppose I'm going to have to look into it, since you've brought it up. ;)

I have the opinion, thougg (and I'll just throw this out there) that one of the worst thing to do with rechargeables is to use those really cheap chargers that come (for instance) packaged with the Energizer 2500's and the like. Not all of then are bad, but some are terrible. The low-end chargers that they package as inexpensive combination battery/charger "packages" you can pick up at Fry's or Sam's Club are good (in my opinion) only for the batteries you're getting. The chargers themselves (in many cases) should be immediately pitched in the trash bin. Much better to buy a decent quality charger that meets the specs you want and just get batteries separately (in many cases, but not all cases of course). And I'm not enough of an expert to KNOW that those cheapie chargers are bad for the batteries, but I suspect it's the case. Just my thoughts, anyway.

By the way, the whole idea of being able to use AA rechargeable batteries in whatever bike light I choose is a part of the reason I'm looking at the DiNotte lights.

Are there other good quality lighting options I should consider that would allow me to use AA batteries? Another brand of light I should also be considering?

I have so many devices already for recharging various batteries (mostly proprietary stuff for camera batteries, high-end power sources for camera flashes, etc., that I don't have much choice but to use) that I like the idea of being able to stick with my existing charge/recharge options on AA batteries rather than deal with yet another type of battery requiring yet another charger.

By the way, the whole idea of being able to use AA rechargeable batteries in whatever bike light I choose is a part of the reason I'm looking at the DiNotte lights.

Are there other good quality lighting options I should consider that would allow me to use AA batteries? Another brand of light I should also be considering?

I have so many devices already for recharging various batteries (mostly proprietary stuff for camera batteries, high-end power sources for camera flashes, etc., that I don't have much choice but to use) that I like the idea of being able to stick with my existing charge/recharge options on AA batteries rather than deal with yet another type of battery requiring yet another charger.

Also check out Fenix Lights (http://www.fenix-store.com) and in thier pre-order section. Use the code " pre-order10 " for a 10% discount. Thankfully I found out about this coupon code as it'll help save some money to put towards batteries.

You may want to look at the P2D and P3D in the pre-order section. They are not AA as you want but use CR123 and can take RCR123 3.0/3.6v. I emailed and checked with Fenix on the battery voltages. One huge advantage is the brighter light you get. P2D = 175lm and P3D = 200lm.

Tho you would probably unit use mid-power for most of the time unless you're going down some steep hills then I would turn the power to 100%. Because it's in the 150+lm catagory it makes also for a tactical blinding weapon should you ever be engaged (knock on wood that you won't *knock knock*) by a hostile individual. Getting shot in the eyes with a 200lm is like a punch in the face. Also it's wire free so it's quick for moving to and from in the city. Just make sure before entering any trails or valleys to change to new cells so you're not caught changing cells in the middle of the valley. It is also in a small size form factor.

One disadvantage is pretty obvious that you're using CR123 batteries. While they can be found in any city at oh say 23:30 local time when only the convience stores are open they may carry the CR123 but they'll have a premium price on them. Not to say the AA's at a convience store at that time are cheap but the price difference then would look cheaper.

There is a L2D model that gives off 175lm and can use Alk./NIMH/NICAD/Lithium 2xAA batteries but it's size factor is a bit larger. If you're using it on the helmet it will look odd as it's long being a 2xAA unit. While on the handlebars the look is diffused some what by the handbrakes, stem, and such. The pros are obvious that AA can be found anywhere even in the dead of night 03:00 when you've got a riding fix for a short ride when you can't sleep any convience store will have cells if you forgot your spares. The cons are the size of the unit which makes it more visually limited to the handlebars but you can still helmet mount it if you want but it just won't look that good. The P3D is already pushing the helmet mount look IMHO.

So a combination of AA and CR123 would be a cheap alternative given the prices. Free S/H is hard to beat and with the 10% it makes the deal sweeter. You'll be topping out at 375lms with that setup and about ~115USD price which is good bang for buck if you look around at your other options which only go up in price. The H3 coating makes it hard for scatches on the light so it looks better longer.

You can always get a RCR123 charger + batteries from Fenix Store (http://www.fenix-store.com), All-Battery (http://www.all-battery.com/), DealExtreme (http://www.dealextreme.com), etc. Both DX and Fenix have free S/H.

Less wires less hassle when doing stop and go trips. Also it's easier to give a flashlight to a friend if needed then while riding then taking a Dinotte unit off.

Well, you've give me even more interesting stuff to consider, Zero_Enigma.

I'm finding that looking at all the lighting options that I've been trying to evaluate is giving me a case of information overload. I know that I want something of good quality and will do the job well. At the same time, I want to avoid overspending, which I may very well be doing if I go for the DiNotte option.

One thing I have to consider is that I have a feeling I could really get into some night riding. At least, I see it as a possibility. I might end up needing lights for more than just the occasional early evening convenience but for fairly regular use, depending on how things work out over the long haul. If I do any significant amount of night riding, I want to make sure that I'm set up both to see and be seen. Like probably anyone else, I want to get as much bang for the buck as possible and want as much built-in convenience as I can manage to get.

And, while I'm leaning pretty strongly toward the rechargeable AA route, if I can do better with another option I'm certainly willing to consider it. (But my first "look" is into the AA options to see what I can in terms of whats out there.)

In my area on the Texas Gulf Coast (and specifically where I live in terms of city/neighborhood), we've got very little besides flat terrain (not really any hills). I live in a very much urban area just outside Houston (no longer what I'd call the suburbs because of growth in our area, but still a an interesting mix of city streets (much newly paved, in a relative sense) and nearby rural routes that are somewhat accessible. But my night riding, as far as I can predict, will mostly all be on paved streets and walkways, with some areas lit and some not. So, I'd sure like to explore whatever options might work best for me with those few things in mind. But I'm not even sure at this point what other things I need to consider (in terms of lighting needs). So I think my brain is both opening up to possibilities and freezing up with all the options I've been considering the last few days.

Too many possible choices and not enough personal frame of reference! ;)

^ its quite simple, one must aquire one of everything! ;)

Well, you've give me even more interesting stuff to consider, Zero_Enigma.

I'm finding that looking at all the lighting options that I've been trying to evaluate is giving me a case of information overload. I know that I want something of good quality and will do the job well. At the same time, I want to avoid overspending, which I may very well be doing if I go for the DiNotte option.

One thing I have to consider is that I have a feeling I could really get into some night riding. At least, I see it as a possibility. I might end up needing lights for more than just the occasional early evening convenience but for fairly regular use, depending on how things work out over the long haul. If I do any significant amount of night riding, I want to make sure that I'm set up both to see and be seen. Like probably anyone else, I want to get as much bang for the buck as possible and want as much built-in convenience as I can manage to get.

And, while I'm leaning pretty strongly toward the rechargeable AA route, if I can do better with another option I'm certainly willing to consider it. (But my first "look" is into the AA options to see what I can in terms of whats out there.)

In my area on the Texas Gulf Coast (and specifically where I live in terms of city/neighborhood), we've got very little besides flat terrain (not really any hills). I live in a very much urban area just outside Houston (no longer what I'd call the suburbs because of growth in our area, but still a an interesting mix of city streets (much newly paved, in a relative sense) and nearby rural routes that are somewhat accessible. But my night riding, as far as I can predict, will mostly all be on paved streets and walkways, with some areas lit and some not. So, I'd sure like to explore whatever options might work best for me with those few things in mind. But I'm not even sure at this point what other things I need to consider (in terms of lighting needs). So I think my brain is both opening up to possibilities and freezing up with all the options I've been considering the last few days.

Too many possible choices and not enough personal frame of reference! ;)

Well if AA is the route you want then for the best bang for buck to use what you already have the 2 x L2D option from Fenix would serve you well. Just pick up a package of TwoFish bike adaptors on the same site and you get free s/h. Out the package you load your 2xAA into both lights and mount on your bike and have instant 175lm x 2 = 350lm for the same price of a Dinotte. Also you have the flexibility of using one light as a flashlight or to give to a friend. Because you have dual lights now (I use duals myslf but I us the http://www.planetbike.com Blaze 1/2W 2xAA which is a make shift TO-SEE light in a pinch but mainly they are my BE-SEEN lights tilted up and give the appearance from a distant of a motorbike which many drivers slow down a block or two in response to seeing it and to see WTF that is which means to me they notice me) should one unit fail you have redundancy of the lighting. Hard Adonized Aluminum (often called H3 or H-III) if I have the name right , means the coating of the light is extremely scratch resistant and pretty much the best coating you can get. Check out http://www.candlepowerforums.com and you'll see a ocean of people that own it and the reviews have been positive, reliable, durable, and a true preformer. You can't get a better crowd like the CPF people as they are lighting people and will in the name of testing/science abuse the hell of the light to see how well it survives in the worst case situation which you will rarely encounter.

Dinotte is a winner as well in the eye candy but for bang for buck right now it seems 2 x L2D's gve you the most light for the same price as a Dinotte. I'm not knocking the Dinotte. I love the look of it as well but the extra cables I want to avoid having been down this route already. I am taking off about 5 items on the bike easy time I stop and go. Only thin now a days I want wired it seems is the helmet light which I can either carry my helmet in to places or lock it up on the bike and take the light on my body.

Not sure how good you are with tools but if you get the parts (no elec background here but I'm building one slowly) you can make a DIY light which will clearly knock the other lights out the park in lighting power and you can use lower power for longer run time. 3xLED for good brightness giving the advancements of LED"s in the last few years. Here is the site for the DIY. http://myfwyc.org/bikeled/DIY_LED_Bike_Lighting_Guide.html


When you are at CPF check out the BICYCLE forum in the TRANSPORTATION area. Also in the deals area you'll find CPF deals and discounts (whereI fond the 10% off Fenix).

May the light me with you. :D

^ its quite simple, one must aquire one of everything! ;)

Yes, I can see that coming.

My personal my history in tennis and photography (and as reflected by MOST serious amateur tennis players and ALL professional photographers) is to have at least TWO of everything... :rolleyes: (and that is, of course, no joke).

Given that I have almost nothing for biking (other than a 40-year-old Schwinn Collegiate 5-speed and a relatively new Raleigh F500 mountain bike), it looks like I have a true need for a spending spree. Only my banker and my wife would disagree. ;)

Well if AA is the route you want then for the best bang for buck to use what you already have the 2 x L2D option from Fenix would serve you well. Just pick up a package of TwoFish bike adaptors on the same site and you get free s/h. Out the package you load your 2xAA into both lights and mount on your bike and have instant 175lm x 2 = 350lm for the same price of a Dinotte. Also you have the flexibility of using one light as a flashlight or to give to a friend. Because you have dual lights now (I use duals myslf but I us the http://www.planetbike.com Blaze 1/2W 2xAA which is a make shift TO-SEE light in a pinch but mainly they are my BE-SEEN lights tilted up and give the appearance from a distant of a motorbike which many drivers slow down a block or two in response to seeing it and to see WTF that is which means to me they notice me) should one unit fail you have redundancy of the lighting. Hard Adonized Aluminum (often called H3 or H-III) if I have the name right , means the coating of the light is extremely scratch resistant and pretty much the best coating you can get. Check out http://www.candlepowerforums.com and you'll see a ocean of people that own it and the reviews have been positive, reliable, durable, and a true preformer. You can't get a better crowd like the CPF people as they are lighting people and will in the name of testing/science abuse the hell of the light to see how well it survives in the worst case situation which you will rarely encounter.

Excellent points and good suggestions. I certainly want to look into these options before I make a final decision. Thanks once again for all the pointers in directions to look and things to consider.


Dinotte is a winner as well in the eye candy but for bang for buck right now it seems 2 x L2D's gve you the most light for the same price as a Dinotte. I'm not knocking the Dinotte. I love the look of it as well but the extra cables I want to avoid having been down this route already. I am taking off about 5 items on the bike easy time I stop and go. Only thin now a days I want wired it seems is the helmet light which I can either carry my helmet in to places or lock it up on the bike and take the light on my body.

I hear you on the extra wires/cables thing. There's already enough of that going around and I don't really have a compelling desire to add ANY extra wires to a bike that I don't have to have. The idea of something that is self-contained and an excellent performer is a very attractive idea to me. Anything that leans toward simplicity and efficiency coupled with great performance is what I want to consider first.

What I see as a main problem with a lot of the really desirable bike lights is the cost. And while I want to buy the best I can, I am definitely limited from a budget standpoint. I see why so many folks want to explore other equivalent options that get them the same (or better) results without paying higher, niche-based prices (and specialty bike lights seem to fall into that niche category -- if you want something really nice that's specifically designed for bike use, you're going to pay for it). But using a creative approach might (like you're suggesting) might easily produce more bang for the buck. Like you say, looking into the candlepowerforums sounds like an excellent route to explore for tapping into exceptional levels of knowledge on this very subject.

Great stuff, Zero_Enigma... ;)

Well if AA is the route you want then for the best bang for buck to use what you already have the 2 x L2D option from Fenix would serve you well.

Hey, I have another question for you, Zero_Enigma.

Got any idea of what the difference would be between the L2D CE (at $56.50) and L2D Premium 100 (at $62.50)?

But also...you make a good point about the CR123A batteries in rechargeable form (and getting the charger) in terms of going with the P2D (or P3D). That could be a legitimate route for me, too. It strays from the AA rechargeable concept I'm first considering...but not too far. ;)

Also check out Fenix Lights (http://www.fenix-store.com) and in thier pre-order section. Use the code " pre-order10 " for a 10% discount. Thankfully I found out about this coupon code as it'll help save some money to put towards batteries.

I haven't actually ordered anything yet, but I was playing around with the discount code and couldn't get it to recognize "pre-order10" but finally figured out it was supposed to be "preorder10" (without the hyphen).

Just an FYI for anyone trying the code. ;)

Got any idea of what the difference would be between the L2D CE (at $56.50) and L2D Premium 100 (at $62.50)?

I did end up finding this info on the L2D Premium 100 (which seems to be more than is actually viewable on the Fenix site (?)).

http://www.torchworld.com.au/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409

Just as a follow-up to my inquiries about the DiNotte lights (DiNotte 200L and the DiNotte Ultra Tail Light) that I wanted to order without batteries or chargers.

DiNotte contacted me with a price at just under $300 for the two lights without batteries/chargers.

GeoMan gave it a good effort and tried to do a deal for me, but couldn't acquire the lights for me without the chargers and batteries (tried, but couldn't -- at least not at this time). But the price for the two lights with chargers and batteries from GeoMan pretty much matched the direct DiNotte price for the lights without chargers and batteries (just under $300 for both lights with chargers and batteries). So, for basically the same price from GeoMan you could get both lights and have two chargers and eight rechargeable batteries. So, you want the best deal, go through GeoMan as the vendor and you'll get it.

As a side note, I got quick, courteous, and informative follow-ups to both my inquires (from both DiNotte and GeoMan).

At this point, though, as much as I covet the DiNotte lights, I'm probably going with a Fenix setup for my front lights. No wires, just self-contained lights that will be easy for me to deal with. However, I'm still very tempted by the DiNotte Ultra Tail Light -- although a Fenix equivalent with proper diffuser/gel attachment might serve me as well (if that's an option (since, once again, it would give me a wireless setup).

I don't know what the deal with the wires are? They are super short and IMO the ease of the O-ring mounting makes up for the small wire.

Love my Dinottes!

I had recently bought the Dinotte tail light and 200L from Geoman. I haven't used the 200L yet, but the tail lights are very bright as per most of the reviews here on this forum.

I don't know what the deal with the wires are? They are super short and IMO the ease of the O-ring mounting makes up for the small wire.

Love my Dinottes!

Oh, the wires and extra attachments are not that big of a deal, but the idea of simplifying things does have a certain level of appeal. Seems to me that (depending on your setup) self-contained units would have certain advantages like going on and coming off the bike a bit more quickly and easily and storing a bit more easily. Not big things, but somewhat desirable for certain people or at certain times (at least, I sense a few advantages).

Besides, I don't want my bike to end up looking too much like one of my cameras... ;)



This one actually requires a kick stand, unless I happen to have a convenient curb or tree to park it up against...

I understand. But I wouldn't compare the dinotte cables to your camera. All I am saying is that for me the short cable is offset by the awesome mounting method of the Dinotte.

I may get a Fenix too. I like flashlights.

-D

I understand. But I wouldn't compare the dinotte cables to your camera. All I am saying is that for me the short cable is offset by the awesome mounting method of the Dinotte.

I may get a Fenix too. I like flashlights.

-D

Sorry, the camera comment was meant more as a joke than an actual comparison. With the camera I obviously have a lot more (and longer) cable involved in a much smaller amount of overall space to connect external power source to flash and flash to camera.

But still...in a sense...the comparison is not outrageously far off. When I remove the external power source (the big black Quantum battery) and the cord that is needed to connect the power source to the flash, all is have do to is use rechargeable AA batteries or alkalines. I don't get as quick a recycle time, but I get lighter and less cumbersome overall rig. With the DiNotte's compared to the Fenix solution, each DiNotte is going to have two connection points (battery back and light) and each Fenix is going to have one connection point (just the light). True, the DiNotte is simpler looking in terms of the light connection, but you still have two things to connect for DiNotte light (and the connecting cord between them).

And don't get me wrong about the DiNotte lights -- that's why I started the thread since they were just about the most appealing option to me. They sound fantastic and I'd love to own a set (and might, eventually). And once again, I don't see the cords as being that big deal to work with. Heck, I'd love to see that big and bad 500L in action (see it in action on the front of my own bike, that is... ;) )

I've got the feeling I might end up with the DiNotte tail light and a couple of Fenix lights for my headlights. And I'm still undecided about a helmet light.

But I could do something like the Fenix man does...





(Hope those are fair game to post here (?). My apologies, if not.)

Sorry, the camera comment was meant more as a joke than an actual comparison. With the camera I obviously have a lot more (and longer) cable involved in a much smaller amount of overall space to connect external power source to flash and flash to camera.

No problem really. My camera setup isn't quite as extensive but i got the point.


But still...in a sense...the comparison is not outrageously far off. When I remove the external power source (the big black Quantum battery) and the cord that is needed to connect the power source to the flash, all is have do to is use rechargeable AA batteries or alkalines. I don't get as quick a recycle time, but I get lighter and less cumbersome overall rig. With the DiNotte's compared to the Fenix solution, each DiNotte is going to have two connection points (battery back and light) and each Fenix is going to have one connection point (just the light). True, the DiNotte is simpler looking in terms of the light connection, but you still have two things to connect for DiNotte light (and the connecting cord between them).

I guess the key is generally I don't disconnrct the battery pack from the lights anyhow.


Heck, I'd love to see that big and bad 500L in action (see it in action on the front of my own bike, that is... ;) )

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=324734

-D

Hey, I have another question for you, Zero_Enigma.

Got any idea of what the difference would be between the L2D CE (at $56.50) and L2D Premium 100 (at $62.50)?

But also...you make a good point about the CR123A batteries in rechargeable form (and getting the charger) in terms of going with the P2D (or P3D). That could be a legitimate route for me, too. It strays from the AA rechargeable concept I'm first considering...but not too far. ;)

L2D CE (https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=332&osCsid=58c98acc7472d816cb12514d659fdb0b) has 140lm.

L2D Premium 100 (https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=333&osCsid=58c98acc7472d816cb12514d659fdb0b)has 175lm

As far as I can see that is the only difference. They both you the new Luxeon Rebel LED which is smaller, brighter, and more effecient in lighting from all I've seen/read on my LED research. The Rebel came out a few months ago so it's pretty much Gen1 right now compared to the other LED's such as Cree and Seoul which have been through a few upgrades in thier LED technology to be brighter.

Basically if you get the Premium model you've got a brighter light which also translate to when using it on the lowest mode you get a brighter useable light that lasts longer in runtime then if you ran the other L2D at the same levels. You pay for that extra brightness.

Thanks for the heads up on the preorder code. My bad on that. I hastely checked the discount code on the CPF site and reposted thinking there was a hyphen. :o

Thanks, Zero_Enigma, and thanks for the reference to the CandlePowerForums. Wow, quite a site. ;)

I think I'm going to go for two of the L2D Premium 100 lights for the time being (and a set of the TwoFish adapters). I'm impressed enough by what I've read (along with your recommendation) to think that's a great bang-for-the-buck solution. I'm going to see how those will work as dual handlebar headlights, then work on something for a helmet and tail lights. Got a lot of ideas for both of those, but the handlebar light was the priority item. I might have to wait a bit before those are ready to ship, but I can wait. ;)

I think for many of you who are going to get the fenix lights, they are a solid choice.. I have been using different technologies as they have grown.. The cree lights are some of the nicer lights out there without going to a totally custom mod that will be hundreds of dollars..

I would in addition to getting a p3d or l2d handlebar light look at getting a p2d for a helmet light.. It only uses 1 battery, so using primaries is not too costly.. You get almost 3 hours in high mode with the p2d, which is more than enough for most riders.. Helmet lights help you being seen at night since you can direct the light better.. If a car pulls up to an intersection and I look there direction, trust me they will see you.. At dusk where I think cars have the hardest time seeing riders, you can use the strobe or sos mode to improve your visibility..

The twofish bikeblock works best for mounting a light your helmet.. It has parallel channels.. Here is the link to there store.. Loop through your helmet, pull the velcro tight and instant helmet light..

http://www.boomerdirect.shoppingcartsplus.com/catalog/item/1719053/1152782.htm

Thanks, Zero_Enigma, and thanks for the reference to the CandlePowerForums. Wow, quite a site. ;)

I think I'm going to go for two of the L2D Premium 100 lights for the time being (and a set of the TwoFish adapters). I'm impressed enough by what I've read (along with your recommendation) to think that's a great bang-for-the-buck solution. I'm going to see how those will work as dual handlebar headlights, then work on something for a helmet and tail lights. Got a lot of ideas for both of those, but the handlebar light was the priority item. I might have to wait a bit before those are ready to ship, but I can wait. ;)

One note on the flashlights as headlights is that you don't get side visiblity. That is something you'll have to suppliment yourself. A cheap front blinkie w/ side visibility mounted in the middle of your dual headlight setup will give you the front side visibility you need to be safe while maintaining a reasonable clean look to the bike. Then again you can also use reflective tape on the front forks and rear chain stays but that's up to your comfort level on how you want to dress up your bike.

If you had a helmet light you can do without the reflecto on the bike as you can look around when entering intersections or road breaks so anyone coming towards you in the dark will see a moving bll of light on the helmet. Tho some hardcore safety advocates will beat me for suggesting taking the reflecto tape off.

Up here north of the 49th parallel where I reside we have a store called MEC (http://www.mec.ca) which is like (from what I've heard) like REI in the US of A. At MEC they have in the cycling lighting dept. LED turtles. They use 2 x CR2032 flat coin cell batteries. They also make a light weight emergency blinkie if you put them on thr keychain or the bike bag or your cycling grab bag with your essential riding gear you won't leave the house with. Being CR2032 they are not common to find after hours when shops are closed. You /may/ if you're damn lucky to find a convience store to carry them as a last, last, LAST resort should your dual headlights fail and your emergency LED's batteries are drained out.

In a pinch the LED turtles can be used as a TO-SEE light but only at ~10-12kph speeds max. and 12kph is pushing it. Thier primary use is BE-SEEN lights. That said you can get one and under mount it on the front bars and put it into flash mode and have some side coverage as you don't really need to care about front light having dual headlights.

You can secure yourself a bulk load of CR2032 a la cheap via DealExtreme with free S/H. My previous package I got 10 x CR2032 off Ebay for ~$12 USD shipped. The good thng about thier small size and weight is that you can carry 2 x CR2032 spare batteries and they weigh almost nothing should you need to carry extra cells.

These LED turtles can be found rather cheap for ~$3.50 CDN/ea or cheaper online like at DealExtreme. I'd carry 2 x white turtle LED and 2 x red turtle LED if I had the space. Gives you a good backup setup.

175lm x 2 = 350lm for now would more then cover your riding on the flats and slight hills. Unless you're bombing down Mt. Everest steepness you won't need to upgrade your lights for a while. Just take caution when riding down the hills and know your limits. Try to pick a target and count 'one one-thousand' and see if you have at least 3 critical seconds (preferred is 5 seconds) to see what's around you while riding so you don't out run your lights and have enough critical timing to make evasions and such.

Lots of good points, Zero_Enigma.

How much am I going to owe you in consulting fees? ;) (You might have to split it with socalrider, though.)

I went ahead and picked up one of these in the photos below from Performance Bicycle (to give myself a bit of extra handlebar attachment real estate). They're on sale for about $10 right now (ViewPoint OS Spacebar (http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=22874&subcategory_ID=4111)).

At this point, I'm halfway considering attaching two of them (one on either side of the handlebar stem) to preserve my sense of symmetry and to allow me to attach whatever I want up front. It's a thought, anyway. The base on this spacebar will also rotate to vertical for attachment to the seatpost (I haven't tested it, but it sure looks like it would work for seatpost mounting).

I might take the one I have apart and post a couple of photos of the inner workings in case anyone wants to see how it goes together and what's inside. (You remove the two side screws, pull out the base, loosen and rotate a U-shaped bracket that's inside, and attach to a vertical post if desired.) The assembly is metal and plastic, but the plastic seems sturdy enough to hold up to everyday use.

Lots of good points, Zero_Enigma.

How much am I going to owe you in consulting fees? ;) (You might have to split it with socalrider, though.)

I went ahead and picked up one of these in the photos below from Performance Bicycle (to give myself a bit of extra handlebar attachment real estate). They're on sale for about $10 right now (ViewPoint OS Spacebar (http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=22874&subcategory_ID=4111)).

At this point, I'm halfway considering attaching two of them (one on either side of the handlebar stem) to preserve my sense of symmetry and to allow me to attach whatever I want up front. It's a thought, anyway. The base on this spacebar will also rotate to vertical for attachment to the seatpost (I haven't tested it, but it sure looks like it would work for seatpost mounting).

I might take the one I have apart and post a couple of photos of the inner workings in case anyone wants to see how it goes together and what's inside. (You remove the two side screws, pull out the base, loosen and rotate a U-shaped bracket that's inside, and attach to a vertical post if desired.) The assembly is metal and plastic, but the plastic seems sturdy enough to hold up to everyday use.






That looks like the Minorua Spacebar. Heck I think they're all made at the same factory then rebranded else where. You can check out my old light setup here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/49184877@N00/) from last year. If you look carefully you can see the NiteHawk undermounted on the Spacebar on the stem. When the lights are on it looks ok. In the day time when you remove the lighting (unless you like to keep it on) the Spacebar does not look that good with the bike. >_<; Removed the plastic bag cover on the seat and some of the green tape to give it more of a cleaner look. Gotta do something about that stem tape later. I want to protect the stem from the mounting scratches thus why I put that green tape there but yes it looks icky. :( Any ideas how to remove the tape without removing the stem logos? I was removing the tape one day while removing the other tape and the KORE LITE STEM logo started to slowly peel a bit from the year long adhesion. I'll take my consulting fees in rechargeable batteries or half a Fenix light. :D

Do you have a photo of your stock bike before the lights?

Any ideas how to remove the tape without removing the stem logos? I was removing the tape one day while removing the other tape and the KORE LITE STEM logo started to slowly peel a bit from the year long adhesion.

Yikes...

For some of the photography stuff I do, I have an adhesive remover and photo cleaner called Unseal (made by the company Seal who makes -- or used to make -- dry mount presses for mounting photographs to mat board). In some dry mount presses you use sheets of adhesive-coated paper to bond photos to mat board (via a heating process) and the adhesive-coated paper will occasionally leave glue residue that has to be cleaned off the dry mount press or off the surface of photographs. The full name of the stuff I use for cleanup is called Unseal Adhesive Releasing Solvent by Seal. I have a 32-oz can of it that I've been using for years and that is still half full. I've used it for all kinds of other little cleanup work involving adhesives that need to be removed from things. Something like this (or another type of adhesive remover) if used carefully might allow you to get the tape and leave the logo behind. You dab it on and let it soak for a while then gently remove (or try to remove) the object (often labels or tape) in question.


Do you have a photo of your stock bike before the lights?

Yeah, it's a 2003 Raleigh F500 police patrol bike. I'm not a police officer, I just stole it from one... :eek:

Actually, I just bought it from someone who had purchased it as what I think was an excess unit that was "unused" by one of the local police departments. It sat around since 2003 basically unused and I bought it from the guy who had bought it from the department. It's in sort of minty condition but for a couple of minor scratches. In any case, here are some photos:

Raleigh F500 Police Patrol Bike (http://www.ruscelli.com/biking_raleigh_f500.htm)

Even though I linked to this in another thread, for the sake of my remembering this site and it's options for mounting head and tail lights, here's a great link:

Mounting Lights from Peter White Cycles (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.asp)

Lots of great options for brackets, mounting, visual examples, etc. Check out that Nitto Lamp Holder. Kind of expensive, but nice looking (looks like solid quality).

This seems to be a source for the "longer" Nitto Lamp Holder:

Milwaukee Bicycle Co. Nitto Lamp Holder 2 (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_240&products_id=875&zenid=4910edf199b79c902c15872ba42d333d)

Even though I linked to this in another thread, for the sake of my remembering this site and it's options for mounting head and tail lights, here's a great link:

Mounting Lights from Peter White Cycles (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.asp)

Lots of great options for brackets, mounting, visual examples, etc. Check out that Nitto Lamp Holder. Kind of expensive, but nice looking (looks like solid quality).

This seems to be a source for the "longer" Nitto Lamp Holder:

Milwaukee Bicycle Co. Nitto Lamp Holder 2 (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_240&products_id=875&zenid=4910edf199b79c902c15872ba42d333d)

Wow, those light mounts have got me drooling. I love the fork mount setup mounts. I may have to pick up those mounts and build a DIY dual fork floods for fog light effect. Tho it's plastic I'm rather curious how they'll handle offroad (non technical).

BTW your daughters Raleigh rocks! :D Tho what!? No helmet on her? :( Gotta be careful. Once you've got your light setup next is to light up the little ones for your 'night patrol gang :D;)' . Convince the wife (if you're married) to ride with you and get her bike set up. Next get some comms. Such as the Garmin RINO (https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=146) units and have both adults with a RINO 120 while the little ones with the basic RINO 110 so when you hail them from far away (if you want to have night scouting adventures) you can check on 'radar' where they are in your little groups. Very handy radar feature.

Looks like you're well on your way to be a light junkie soon and I'll be seeing you in rehab. :D

BTW your daughters Raleigh rocks! :D Tho what!? No helmet on her? :( Gotta be careful.

Love the retro Raleigh, too. That was her 2006 Christmas present (with training wheels, but now she's riding without them -- for the last month or so on her "big" bike).

Yeah, on the helmets we're generally pretty strict. Once in a while I'll let her ride without a helmet on our little circle as in that one photo (we're on a dead-end, cul-de-sac street deep out neighborhood). But most of the time we make her wear her helmet (thankfully, most of the other parents on our street make their kids wear them as well, so the example is there to follow). She's actually got a brand new Giro Flume (pink) that she loves. Nice little helmet purchased at the Performance Bicycle Grand Opening at a great price. She used to really dislike her old helmet, but that's because it was a ill-fitting and difficult-to-adjust hand-me-down Disney helmet that kept falling down too far on her forehead. While being MUCH BETTER than nothing, its fit did nothing to encourage her to want to wear it.

We just got back from about a three-mile, four-park tour in our series of neighborhoods. We visited a park in each neighborhood, played on the swings, and most importantly got to ride together. Cool feeling to do that with my 5-year-old. ;)


Convince the wife (if you're married) to ride with you and get her bike set up. Next get some comms. Such as the Garmin RINO (https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=146) units and have both adults with a RINO 120 while the little ones with the basic RINO 110 so when you hail them from far away (if you want to have night scouting adventures) you can check on 'radar' where they are in your little groups. Very handy radar feature.

Yeah, my wife is next on the list. We've been shopping bikes for her and want to get her on one soon. She's found a couple that she really likes and I think we'll be buying one for her pretty quickly. Her birthday is tomorrow and I think I might spring for a bike for her this weekend (I'll have to see what's in the piggy bank).


Looks like you're well on your way to be a light junkie soon and I'll be seeing you in rehab. :D

Yeah, I'm getting it, that's for sure. With our summertime heat, the evening feels to good to pass up. I might end up being the only night rider, though. Not sure my wife will be that adventurous about it. But we'll see... ;)