Bicycle Mechanics - My chain was never more filty than......

...when it was brand new and I left the manufacturer's lube on it and rode it on a crushed rock trail. That lube was a dust magnet. I've seen threads where people say the lube that comes on a new chain is the best there is. I've read chain threads that say don't use a wet lube because it attracts dust. I use either 30W or ATF diluted with mineral spirits and both seemed to work better than what was on it when I bought it.

On another note, has anybody ever tried dry moly spray lube?

The stuff that comes on the chain is designed to protect the chain from rust. It is not designed to lubricate. The 'finger' test will demonstrate this clearly. Run your finger(s) over the top of the chain. Back and forth. On a properly cleaned and lubed chain, you will feel the rollers roll smoothly and evenly. With that sticky crap all over it, you won't feel the rollers turn at all. Yeah, they may turn in the teeth of the chainring or cog. but not free and easy like they should. Those other guys are just trying to get out of doing a good clean and lube job. Lazy is the word for it. bk

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#factory

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#factory

Well dog gone. I rode it in the dust.

That a chain is dirty on the outside does not imply that it is dirty on the inside.

... I use either 30W or ATF diluted with mineral spirits and both seemed to work better than what was on it when I bought it.

On another note, has anybody ever tried dry moly spray lube?

Dry Moly? Do you mean Molybdenum Disulfide? I hate it. It is a great lubricant, but it is TOXIC!

I was working in a bike shop in the 1980's, and someone brought in a bike with Molybdenukm disulfide on the chain, and it made me sick.

The factory lube may be the best in the world but it also attracts dirt and is a pain to get out of clothing. For that reason, I prefer to strip it and re-lube with something like Prolink.

For a new chain, I dampen a terrycloth rag with naptha and run it over the chain. It takes much of the stickiness off the outside while not affecting the inside.

Hmmm... I'll have to try that. Naptha, eh? Tried anything else?

Brake parts cleaner (from the auto parts store) does a good job of cleaning a new bike chain. I think (IIRC), brake parts cleaner uses the same ingredient also used in dry cleaning. The spray can makes application easy. Outdoor use only.

I've have Prolink and White Lighting, which are completely different chain lubes. I prefer White Lightning, most likely because of it's name.

Hmmm... I'll have to try that. Naptha, eh? Tried anything else?

I'm sure most solvents would work but naphtha (lighter fluid) is my go to solvent. It's not too volatile, does not harm plastics, vinyl, paint fiberglass or carbon composites, removes labels, tar, etc.

Brake parts cleaner (from the auto parts store) does a good job of cleaning a new bike chain. I think (IIRC), brake parts cleaner uses the same ingredient also used in dry cleaning. The spray can makes application easy. Outdoor use only.

I've have Prolink and White Lighting, which are completely different chain lubes. I prefer White Lightning, most likely because of it's name.


The problem with spray brake cleaner, is that unless you are putting it on a rag and then applying it to the chain, you are getting the cleaner into the small areas where the chain really needs the lubricant. Wiping off the outside of the chain that is dusty will not hurt the lubrication of the parts of the chain that need it.

I lube my MTB chain with nothing but 100% synthetic 80w140 gear lube.
$20 a quart.

The factory lube may be the best in the world but it also attracts dirt and is a pain to get out of clothing. For that reason, I prefer to strip it and re-lube with something like Prolink.


+1

Well dog gone. I rode it in the dust.

Us trail riders tend to do so.

...I left the manufacturer's lube on it and rode it on a crushed rock trail. That lube was a dust magnet.


You are correct to be concerned. I ride mountain bikes, road bikes and I occaisionally ride an old Nishiki MTB on a crushed rock, rails to trails MUP, the American Tobacco Trail. If you think an MTB trail is dirty, try riding one of those crushed stone trails.
I clean my chain (off the bike) regularly when I ride crushed stone and I use DRY lube with teflon to relube it. My advice, don't experiment, those crushed stone MUPs really kick up a lot of stone dust. Go to your LBS and buy dry lube. Also, watch your bottom bracket. Clean the outside with a dry cloth (NO LUBRICANT) after every ride to minimize dust getting passed the bottom bracket seals. Plan on lubing (repacking) both your hubs at least once per season.
But I have to say, those trails are relaxing and fun.