Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Need starting advice!!! (VERY overweight)

Hello,

I'm looking for advice on what to look for in buying a bike (frame size/composition/wheels/etc). I really have no idea. I'm 30 years old and weigh approximately 425 lbs. For those of you who will tell me to get doctor's advice before starting... he said I can do whatever I want, as long as it doesn't hurt basically!

I want to get a bike for several reasons. First, exercise of course. I need a way to help keep my blood sugars in control. Also, I live in a college town, and it will be easier to get around campus with a bike. My long term goal that I envision in my head is to ride my bike all the way to campus (a few miles through town/traffic) but for now I'll be happy with bringing my bike with me on the bus and just riding around this huge campus. And also just riding bike paths near my apartment.

Since my wife and I are both students with two kids, we're really busy and don't have jobs, so money is going to be a big issue.

I'll appreciate any advice I can get!!!

You've come to the right place! I'll let the experts talk about the fit thing, but I will say welcome! I started riding in May @ 397 lbs, so you can definitely do this! I'm losing slowly (about 15 lbs so far), but I can tell I'm building up a lot of muscle too, and I've noticed my heart rate is slower (used to normally measure in the high 80s/low 90s, and now it's in the 60s-70s).

I went to my bike shop (feared they would laugh, but they have actually been very nice and quite supportive) and got a Raleigh Venture - a "comfort" bike - for about $400. It's held up except for the rear wheel, which I had to have upgraded to something stronger. You can get something a lot cheaper if you buy used, though, and mountain bikes are generally cheaper than road bikes.

Welcome to the forum!

I have a Trek 7200 (hybrid) which has held up nicely for me in the past 20 months (6,000+ miles). You will have to get the rear wheel respoked with some heavy gauge DT spokes.

Whatever bike you get, make sure you have a quality rear wheel build and a strong seatpost (Thomson).

If you're not too tall, or care about the weight, this company makes THE bombproof bikes:

http://www.worksman.com/rhcruisers.html

I bought a trek 800 from craigslist for $125, so far its its been great.

I am also a big boy 350+ (down from 420, thanks to jogging/walking) Being larger you put self doubts in your mind about what people will think, I know the feeling. Who cares? Whats the other option? Get fatter and die? I have found in the past few weeks of my newbie riding experience my aggressive/competitive nature has come out on the bike. I was a D1 college offensive linemen turned fat slob, I miss the ERRRRRR feeling when pain sets in and pushing through it. I started riding 3 miles a day and a few weeks later I am nearing 20 miles per day. You can do it, I have fallen in love with a sport I knew nothing about a month ago. Many thanks to this forum for the advice given over the past weeks.

Just wanted to chime in - I went to The University of Iowa. :-) I was there from '93-'95 and remember Coralville being underwater in all those floods.

I just bought a Raleigh Passage, which is similar to the Raleigh Venture but is a "hybrid/comfort" bike. Either would probably be good for you - I believe the main difference in the two is the tire size. You could get a little more speed with the Passage due to the tire size. My Passage 3.0 was only $280 new, so you can find a good bike for a good price.

You're lucky to have a lot of flat places to ride. :) I live in Seattle now -- hills everywhere!! It's a challenge to find long stretches of flatness while I am still getting my endurance up!

Good luck and have fun!

I appreciate all of the responses so far everyone.

I have been reading a lot about spokes and stuff. The more spokes the better, from what I understand, generally speaking. Do these bikes that you mention (Raleigh Venture, Raleigh Passage, Trek 7200, Trek 800, etc) do these normally come with sufficient tires, or do I need to look in to special tires?

Also, I have also read that steel bikes generally are strong than aluminum, but most of the bikes I have seen online are aluminum. Do I need to be concerned with aluminum? Or do good bikemakers use better aluminum than what I'd find at a Walmart type place?

It's the quality of the welds on the frame and componentry liike wheelsa on the better bikes.

Walmart bikes are generally assembled by people with minimal training, and it's done poorly, with improper adjustments. The wheels are the cheapest possible on the market and are often factory seconds.

Look at the Specialized Hardrock would be my personal recommendation, or the Workman line if you live in flatlands. Put on slicks if you go with the Specialized, assuming you are going to be riding pavement. bdinger, among others can testify as to the durability and toughness of the Hardrock.

Hello Glen,

I started at about the same weight as you are 3 months ago. So far I am down 62 pounds (417 to 355 as of yesterday). To me the mountain bike has been very relaxing way to unwind from a hard day. Plus it burns calories.
I have a giant yukon. I have had to upgrade my rear wheel plus my chain. I still run a 32 spoke rim, my wheel builder said he could build a wheel that would hold me up. So far he has been right.

Keep an eye on craigslist for a bike.

Good luck with yor search and your exercise goals.

I just stopped in here at my local bike shop, everything seemed WAY expensive :-( I know I'm not going to be able to get a quality bike new at Walmart prices, but I won't be able to afford this place. I hope a couple of the other places are cheaper.

Looks like some decent stuff comes up on the Iowa City Craigslist. Sometimes in smaller cities like that (and like where I live), things stay available for a while. Or if you're willing to drive to Des Moines (and it's still available): http://desmoines.craigslist.org/bik/405574583.html

Thanks Becky. I just emailed about that bike. What I am wondering is, what do I need to ask, sizewise? I don't even know what I need. Should I go to a bike shop and find out what size I need?

Thanks Becky. I just emailed about that bike. What I am wondering is, what do I need to ask, sizewise? I don't even know what I need. Should I go to a bike shop and find out what size I need?

We'll need your height and inseam to give you a good size. Arm length from the shoulders to fingertip as well.

Here's a site with a number of helpful links.
http://www.cptips.com/bkefit.htm

You came to the right place, bud. I started around 380ish.

My 1st bike was a Trek Navigator 300. It was around $400 with all trimmings. They also had 200 and 100 models which were cheaper. I think the nav 100 was around $200 or $250.

Another thing to consider is a mountain bike. They are good starter bikes for Clydes because they are sturdy and designed for "hard use". Check Craigslist for your area.

You should at least go to a bike shop and try some bikes for test rides and get an idea of the right size for you. A little rule of thumb a bike shop guy told me when I first started was to stand over the bike and you should have about 2-3 inches of gap between the bottom of your crotch and the top tube.

OK, so that bike that Becky found on Des Moines Craigslist, I emailed, and he emailed me back a short response. This is what I have so far:
BIKE INFO (http://www.chrisandkatewheeler.com/bike/)

I'm not exactly sure what to measure, but I'm about 5'8" tall, I'm not sure what inseam is EXACTLY but from the bottom of my entire "package" to the ground is about 26", and shoulder-fingertip is about 32"

Have you considered the Iowa City Bike Library, even for just a temporary solution?

To navigate to their info, go to this site, click on "links" in the left nav, and they are under "bike organizations" about half-way down the page.

http://www.bicyclistsofiowacity.org/

I'm not exactly sure what to measure, but I'm about 5'8" tall, I'm not sure what inseam is EXACTLY but from the bottom of my entire "package" to the ground is about 26", and shoulder-fingertip is about 32"

Sounds like a 54 CM Frame in a road bike or about a 17 or 18" frame in a Mountain Bike with compact geometry, if I have my conversions right.

Sounds like a 54 CM Frame in a road bike or about a 17 or 18" frame in a Mountain Bike with compact geometry, if I have my conversions right.
From his height, 54cm sounds like it's in the right range, although if the 26" inseam is correct, might be too big. I'm 5'11" and have measured my inseam at 32". I'm most comfortable on a 56cm road frame, but can ride some 58cm bikes too.

GlennCoco, here's one of many pages that describes how to measure the inseam: http://cherry.dcwi.com/cherry/info/fit_info/inseam.html . Based on the description of the way you measured, which I won't repeat here ;), I think your inseam may be longer than 26".

From his height, 54cm sounds like it's in the right range, although if the 26" inseam is correct, might be too big. I'm 5'11" and have measured my inseam at 32". I'm most comfortable on a 56cm road frame, but can ride some 58cm bikes too.

GlennCoco, here's one of many pages that describes how to measure the inseam: http://cherry.dcwi.com/cherry/info/fit_info/inseam.html . Based on the description of the way you measured, which I won't repeat here ;), I think your inseam may be longer than 26".

I was making allowances for his estimate from his "junk" rather than the Ischium (sit bones).;)

I was making allowances for his estimate from his "junk" rather than the Ischium (sit bones).;)

More specifically, from my anatomy class, the ischial tuberosities!

Perhaps what I'll do is go to a LBS and try a few bikes and see which sizes work best? I hope they will let me do that.

More specifically, from my anatomy class, the ischial tuberosities!

Perhaps what I'll do is go to a LBS and try a few bikes and see which sizes work best? I hope they will let me do that.
Yep, they will....it's all part of making the sale! I'd really suggest the entry level Hardrock Sport from Specialized, by the way. Just have them put street/commuter tires on it.

The 26" wheels are stronger and while it won't be the fastest bike in the shop, it's pretty versatile and very strong.:D

There is only one Specialized dealer in town it looks like, but I will go over when I get out of class and see what they have.

If you go the mountain bike route, a 18 in frame should be right. The good folks at Raleigh badge that as medium frame. I too am 5'8'' and according to my pants have a 32'' inseam. You can compare your inseam with mine and get a good idea what size frame you need.

If you decide to go the craigslist rout make sure the bike you are buying is the correct size for you. A bike that is too large or too small will effect your ride and comfort. When these two are compromised you will be less likley to enjoy your new hobby. I would recommend buying a new set of tires that can be pumped up to 90 or so PSI.

I personally wish I would have waited to find a good buy on craigslist vrs. what I could afford at the bike shop. Hind sight is always 20/20.The really important kernel of knowledge from this post is this: Buy the bike thats the perfect balance of what you can afford and what you like. Don't let anyone tell you that its a POS, what matters is that you are out doing something you enjoy that is good for you. Plus if you decide that cycling is not for you then you wont be out a thousand dollars. But do upgrade the wheel set.

I was just wondering, I still don't know what size I need yet, but is this bike a good one for the money? Also, is this a good one for a 400+ fat man!

CRAIGSLIST BIKE (http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/386601785.html)

Or this bike: ANOTHER BIKE (http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/375226176.html)

Or this bike: ANOTHER BIKE (http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/375226176.html)

That bike is a 2006 Mojave 2.0 so its somewhat older than than 3 months unless it was a leftover. Thats defiantly not the original rubber either so I really doubt its left over. Due to the sellers sarcasm and inaccurate description of the bike I would go with the Giant. The 17'' frame should be about right. Purchase a fixed seat post then ride it until the rims are destroyed (could take awhile if your gentle). In the mean time start saving your money towards a better set of rims.

Bau

That Raleigh looks a lot like the men's version of mine - if so, yes, the rear wheel may hold up for a while, but will eventually need to be upgraded to something stronger. I definitely agree with ditching the suspension seatpost when you can, too. But don't get a cheap one - I got a $20 non-suspension post (not sure of brand) to replace mine, and the teeth that hold the seat angle got stripped out after just a couple rides. Lots of seatposts on Ebay, though. Everyone says Thomson is the best.

Does anyone have any experience with the sub-$300 bikes found here at my LBS: LOCAL BIKE STORE WEBSITE (http://worldofbikes.com/itemlist.cfm?category=63)

Of course I'll test something before I buy it, but the thing I'm concerned about is if these would hold me.

Any one of them should be OK. See Bauteri's advice above.

I suggest "straddling" a few bikes and using a tape measure to actually see what stand over height you need. That way when replying to CL ads etc., you can ask the selleer to give you that dimension.
You really don't need a LOT of clearance if you are only going to ride pavement. As long as you can anticipate stops and fall/lean to the side with your foot down.:)
The Giant in the ad you posted appears to have the seat post extended quite a bit. Probably not the best for your weight???
My $.02

The Giant in the ad you posted appears to have the seat post extended quite a bit. Probably not the best for your weight???
My $.02

Maybe this sounds dumb, but what exactly do you mean? I'm VERY new to this of course.

You might look at this:

http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/406470887.html

For $40 you can't do too badly!

Or this
http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/390570670.html

You might look at this:

http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/406470887.html

For $40 you can't do too badly!

I saw that, but it looks scary. The tires look too skinny!

Do us bigger guys prefer wider tires usually?

Does anyone have any experience with the sub-$300 bikes found here at my LBS: LOCAL BIKE STORE WEBSITE (http://worldofbikes.com/itemlist.cfm?category=63)

Of course I'll test something before I buy it, but the thing I'm concerned about is if these would hold me.

I would pick the "older" TREK 7000 simply because it DOESN'T have the suspension fork. Components appear to be the same as the 08 version.
Unless you ride rather steep hills, you could maybe get the LBS to swap to a different Free Wheel for the rear, Something like a 13-28 to avoid that big jump from 1st to 2nd. 34T to 24T.
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html#7

I'd also see about getting the wheels TENSIONED (not just trued) as part of your first (free) tune up. Even if you have th kick in a few$ for that, it would make the wheels last longer.

Maybe this sounds dumb, but what exactly do you mean? I'm VERY new to this of course.

http://images.craigslist.org/01011201030801040520070731d8a38433caf1c1ff21006cf8.jpg
http://images.craigslist.org/0101120103000104102007082788d947bd6f7131cd2c00cd15.jpg

The seat post in the upper picture is more likely to bend (and possibly "mess up" the seat tube) than the post in the bottom picture. Physics:)

So I've been reading so much about the 36-spoke rear wheel. That's a lot of money. Are there any bikes that come with stock wheels for 425 lbs?

SWIM!

seriously its one of the best ways to exercise safely. you should try to bike as well, but swimming will support your joints against the harsh pull of gravity

I'm dubious of "comfort bikes", and wouldn't even consider a department store bike. I would recommend a mountain bike. Here's my thinking: Mountain bikes are meant for rough use. I weigh 210 lbs. A mountain bike for me would have to be strong enough to take the hits when I go off a jump, or come flying down a mountain road and hit some potholes, bumps, boulders, etc. So they have to be strong. Someone much heavier would probably put about the same amount of stress on the bike while riding on the road and hitting smaller obstacles - small potholes, etc. Mountain bikes are made for this stuff; comfort bikes aren't.

You can find plenty of cheaper 80's and early 90's mountain bikes that were built strong but don't have the modern, desirable stuff (like shocks, threadless headsets, mounts for disc brakes, etc.) My old Stumpjumper would probably be perfect (but I'm not giving it up.)

I'd say that if you want to economize, look for a mountain bike by one of the top companies that was a better quality bike when it was built. If you have the money, go to a good bike shop and buy a strong mountain bike - the people in the shop should be able to steer you to something good, especially if you have the money to spend.

Any one of them should be OK. See Bauteri's advice above.

Thanks Tom, thats flattering to be acknowledged by one of the greats, seriously.

The other bit of information I would like to share regarding the Mojave 2.0 is to ditch the front fork ASAP. The Sram S200 is way too soft to provide any functionality. My weight bobs between 220 and 230 and I can bottom out the fork just by leaning over it. At 425lbs you should probably consider a solid fork. A quick look to Nashbar came back with one on clearance for $4.99, its a threaded headset so I don't know if it will work on the Mojave (if it's still in consideration), but as you can see they can be fairly inexpensive. If front suspension is on your list of wants then defiantly look for one with a pre load or a lockout with the later being preferred.

Bau

Back when I was a wee-lad in the good old days of 1995 I had a 20in bike with these awesome mag wheels that no matter how many hockey stops or poorly landed jumps (or well landed jumps for the matter) they just wouldn't bend.

Is there a reason why we don't see these type rims on our mountain bikes? It would seem as though a composite material of some sort would be the perfect solution to wheels going out of true and broken spokes (can't break whats not there). Granted they would be heavy, but for clyde's I don't think that matters as much. I used my googlefu and came up with these guys:

http://www.yellowjersey.org/ogkmag.jpg

The price tag says 79.99 but the website says they are sold out. Took some time to find this, are they just uncommon or do I need to practice with the intertubes some more?

I bought my Hardrock off of Craigslist for about $120 about 4 years ago. It was 2 years old and originally cost $400. I would suggest you keep searching for a mountain bike. I am of course partial to Specialized Hardrocks for beginning Clyde guys. It held me from 390 down to 290. Only recently have I started upgrading it. Stock wheels are still on it - no issues yet. I wouldn't get too worried about getting super heavy duty wheels at the getgo. Might as well break the ones that come with your bike first. You may be surprised - they may actually last. It would be a shame to waste money on new wheels that aren't necessary.

One thing to keep in mind regardless of what you get - check your air pressure on your tires before every ride. If they go soft on you, you could damage your wheels.

Don't be concerned with 'skinny' tires. What you want is a tire that will hold 100psi or more. This is coming from a guy who's sub 400, but came close to touching that number once or twice in life. I prefer to ride on smaller width tires, if only because they're easier to pedal. You have less rolling resistance with a smaller width tire.

I have 1.5" slicks on my schwinn mtn bike, 30mm on my Giant Cypress DX, and 1 1/8 on my nameless antique bike.

I think that 32 spokes will hold you fine. That's just my opinion. I don't think you can find too many bikes that come stock with wheels greater than 32 spokes.

I know price is an issue, and I can understand that. But what you're looking at is a price on your health. People don't balk at spending $1000's on exercise equiptment, but pause when a bicycle costs $400+. For a treadmill that would hold your weight, you'd be looking at $1500. Trust me, I have one. And I took pause at the $400 price tag on the Giant.

You get what you pay for. Yes, you can go to Walmart and buy the highest spoke count bike they have there. Yes, you'll be able to ride it for about 100 miles before you start needing work on it. And you'll end up taking it to the bike shop, and having $100 of work done on it. Then in 50 miles, you'll need a new bottom bracket, etc in that walmart bike. Trust me, I've got one. It runs great now, but I put as much into it as it would have cost to buy a new quality bike from the bike shop.

Until you start riding, you won't really know what you want. A mountain or hybrid framed bike is a good place to start. Slick tires for easier pedaling, and double walled rims if you can afford them.

The good thing about buying a new bike at the bike shop, is that most of the time they'll let you switch components and give you money off if you get the parts when you buy the bike. Switch out the tires to some that'll hold 100psi or more.

Good luck! I know what it's like, trust me.

Well, I don't know what happened. I thought I posted a followup here, but I don't see it listed, so here I go again.

I ended up going with this bike: BIKE I BOUGHT FROM CRAIGSLIST (http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/386601785.html)

As it turned out, I found out the guy is a member of my church (different congregation though) so we had plenty to talk about. He originally was asking $150, but sold it for $130, and I got some tomatoes and peppers from his garden as an added bonus.

The frame is actually slightly too tall for me probably, when I am standing up anyways. My junk was pretty much resting on the bar. But when I got on and actually rode, it felt great. Maybe it was just the thrill of getting on a bike again for the first time in more than half my life. I took it around the block a few times and rode out on the street and sidewalks. Man, it was fun. I would have kept riding even more, but I didn't even have a helmet on so I wanted to keep my riding to a minimum. The best feeling was when I was pedaling, I usually have it on the hardest gear to pedal (is that high gear or low gear), I was getting that burning feeling in the quad. I LOVE that feeling. It's almost pain, but not quite, and in the good way. WOW!!!

A few things I am concerned about is the stock wheels. I am not sure how long they will hold up. I counted and it looks like they are 36-spokes, so I hope they will last, at least for a while. I guess that is the only thing I am concerned about.

I hope to get some good use out of this in the next few weeks and months, and if this is something I really am going to stick to, I'm going to start saving money for something different, if this one ever fails. Or, if this one works out long-term, I'll just keep this one.

Does anyone have any advice of what I need or should get. It's been recommended to me by different people to look into padded shorts, water bottle holders, a computer thing, and of course, a helmet. What am I missing?

That looks like a pretty good deal you got there. If you don't like the suspension seat post, thats easily changed. The only accessory I would also look into is a blinker light for the back if its missing that. That is a very nice bike you have for a starter. It may last a long long time with 36 spoke wheels.

Very nice! The wheels may hold up as they are. If you're concerned, you can check to be sure they've stayed "true" by lifting up the wheel, giving it a spin, and watching it as it passes by the brake pads. It should stay the same distance from the pad as it goes around, and not appear to wobble.

Isn't it great to feel that ALIVE feeling of actually doing something with your body? I love it too :)

As for extras, I'd start with helmet, water bottle holders, and a computer. Once you start riding far enough to have a walk home be a PITA, you'll also want a little bag to hold the equipment you'll need to fix a flat tire.

Have fun! Keep us posted on the rides :)

My suggestion get something to keep your legs from rubbing - like this http://www.underarmour.com/ProductDetail.cfm?site_id=1&dept_id=7&coll_id=1107&pf_id=1000026

I wear under armour "slider shorts" under normal gym shorts.

Nothing really matters if the next day your legs are raw from rubbing.

Nice wheels!

The only things absolutely necessary are a helmet (per my doctor, the medical term for cyclists who don't wear helmets is "organ donor") and a water bottle. You can start with those two and add other things over time.

A pump. A good floor pump is a necessity for home, particularly if your tires have Presta valves.

On the road, you've a choice of CO2 cartridges or a frame pump. Tire pressure is important here - if your tires are 60 PSI, most frame pumps will work. 120 PSI will require a better frame pump.

A patch kit, a few tools, a spare inner tube.

If you're going more than ten miles, bike shorts. Note: bike togs are usually not sized the same as regular clothing. Check the sizing chart on the website first! The only exception I've found is L.L. Bean - I got a pair of XXL shorts and an XXL jersey from them that are really XXL.

Riding at night? Lights and reflectors. The more, the merrier.

Padded gloves are helpful.

A bike computer is absolutely the least necessary thing, but it's so darned much fun! I've found it also keeps me on the bike longer. (Just ten miles. Just ten miles. Gee, I've done nine miles, but if I stop at ten, the odometer will end on a three. Just two extra miles and it'll end on a five - that's much better...)

Playing cards for the spokes and a raccoon tail are optional.

Eventually, replace that suspension seatpost with a Thompson Elite. I think ya done great!:D By the way, as you get stronger and slimmer, I suspect you'll feel the "need for speed". That's a great starter bike though and I wish you many great rides! One investment I'd suggest first and foremost: A good floor pump, a spare tube as well as a patch kit. Welcome to cycling!
Well, I don't know what happened. I thought I posted a followup here, but I don't see it listed, so here I go again.

I ended up going with this bike: BIKE I BOUGHT FROM CRAIGSLIST (http://iowacity.craigslist.org/bik/386601785.html)

As it turned out, I found out the guy is a member of my church (different congregation though) so we had plenty to talk about. He originally was asking $150, but sold it for $130, and I got some tomatoes and peppers from his garden as an added bonus.

The frame is actually slightly too tall for me probably, when I am standing up anyways. My junk was pretty much resting on the bar. But when I got on and actually rode, it felt great. Maybe it was just the thrill of getting on a bike again for the first time in more than half my life. I took it around the block a few times and rode out on the street and sidewalks. Man, it was fun. I would have kept riding even more, but I didn't even have a helmet on so I wanted to keep my riding to a minimum. The best feeling was when I was pedaling, I usually have it on the hardest gear to pedal (is that high gear or low gear), I was getting that burning feeling in the quad. I LOVE that feeling. It's almost pain, but not quite, and in the good way. WOW!!!

A few things I am concerned about is the stock wheels. I am not sure how long they will hold up. I counted and it looks like they are 36-spokes, so I hope they will last, at least for a while. I guess that is the only thing I am concerned about.

I hope to get some good use out of this in the next few weeks and months, and if this is something I really am going to stick to, I'm going to start saving money for something different, if this one ever fails. Or, if this one works out long-term, I'll just keep this one.

Does anyone have any advice of what I need or should get. It's been recommended to me by different people to look into padded shorts, water bottle holders, a computer thing, and of course, a helmet. What am I missing?

"The frame is actually slightly too tall for me probably, when I am standing up anyways. My junk was pretty much resting on the bar."
That was the case for me, when I got my current bike. Now I have "clearance" and honestly haven't figured out why? Maybe my posture has improved? Maybe I can straighten my legs more???
Edit- What to get-
I would find an LBS that does wheel building and have the wheels TENSIONED and trued. With your weight, that could go along way toward PREVENTING spoke breakage/ out of true problems. At least do the rear, since that supports most of the weight and has the torsional stresses from pedaling. Remember, 1/2 your spokes are trying to unwind!