Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - lockring tightening

Another problem with my cog and lockring has popped up. When I've been riding and have tried to skid stop or put on reverse pressure, the lockring pops off. Now when I try to tighten on the lockring, instead of simply tightening until I can no longer turn it with my wrench, the lockring will continue to turn and eventually loosen on its own and i'm going to assume this is really not good right? The hub is a stock hub that came with alex rims, so I'm suspicious on the quality. The threading on the hub seems to be worn down or damaged which could be the problem, and I've tried loctite on the lockring with no success. Is there any other way to fix this? do I have to get a new rear hub??

Sounds like your hub is STRIPPED. From what I understand, you're totally focked and need a new hub, but maybe someone knows a secret that I don't know.

so, what kind of hub are you gonna buy?

so, what kind of hub are you gonna buy?

I'd say the OP should just get some Formulas, along with a good Dura Ace lockring.

..and a Dura Ace cog just to be sure.

yeah the formulas are looking good, are the threads on the fixed side any good? has anoyne had problems of the threadings being stripped? My buddy has Harris Cyclery, and those looked pretty good, threading seemed good. Any advice or preferences?

For the record; what type of lockring were you using?

Formulas are great; just make sure you put a good quality cog and lockring on it.

yeah the formulas are looking good, are the threads on the fixed side any good? has anoyne had problems of the threadings being stripped? My buddy has Harris Cyclery, and those looked pretty good, threading seemed good. Any advice or preferences?

Harris Cyclery hubs are Formula hubs.

Get a Surly hub and put a Surly cog and lock ring on it.

Actually, the make of cog and lock ring doesn't matter as much as sticking with that maker so that the hub only "sees" one style of thread.

Then, use a lot of grease on the the threads and between the lock ring and the cog.
I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but the grease allows all the parts to get closer together and "lock up" with less torque put on them.
More grease and less torque.

Just to throw an unpopular but otherwise perfectly fine option in here, you could always stop skidding. A brake works wonders on not only stopping faster but preventing stripped hubs.

Az

i bought one of the formula hubs and its doing fine so far - I have an EAI cog and a Milwaukee Bicycle Co. lockring (this one (http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_231&products_id=683)) on it. Haven't been riding it for too long. I'll post if there are any issues. Not much skidding for me, so its probably not getting as much stress as from better riders.

you can fix that problem just fine with some jb weld. if you don't want to ever change out your cog, just jb weld it onto the hub. it'll hold fine and you'll be able to get a little more life out of the hub.

stripped my hub on my first fixie. I never greased the threads nor did I check the lockring after first few rides.

grease the threads both cog/lockring then ride up a hill without ever back pedaling and check to see if you can tighten the lockring more. keep doing it till the you can't tighten the lockring.

oh, I'm running formula hubs with a EAI cog and dura ace lockring. haven't had any issues so far.

if you have a flip flop hub cant you just flip it around?

A flip flop hub is fixed on one side, and can mount a freewheel on the other. There is no place for a lock ring on the freewheel only side.

You need a flip flip hub (or flop flop, if you prefer) with fixed threads on both sides.