Road Cycling - Large Riders

My body type is sometimes referred to as "clydesdale." I am 6'3" and weigh 240lbs. I average 200+ miles per week on a Trek Navigator 300 comfort bike.

Next May I am going to buy a road bike. Currently, the LeMonds and Treks are at the top of my list. Depending on my final budget, I will get a Buenos Aires or 2200 or a Zurich or 2300. Depends on how they feel when I test ride.

I would like to hear the experiences of other large riders on durablility of various components.

1. What kind of bike do you ride, what is the frame material and component group? How many miles have you ridden on it? Any problems?

2. What kind of saddle and how comfortable is it on long, 3 hour + rides?

3. What kind of wheel set? How durable are they and what kind of problems, if any, have you had?

4. What about tires? What kind have been the most durable for you?

5. Any problems with the bottom bracket?

I would be most appreciative of any and all comments, experiences, and suggestions.

TrekRider,

While I don't fit the catagory let me be the first to say
Brooks B17 saddle.
and I'd recommend staying away from low spoke count
high tension wheels (i.e. 16 spoke shimano wheels), go with
a more traditional wheel, 32 or 36 spoke count, they will
hold up much longer.
The only bikes I know of that have stated weight limits
are high end full blown racing Carbon Fibre frames.
The same is true of some Ti components (i.e. Speedplay
Zero Ti pedal).

Marty

Hi,
I weigh about what you do.

I would like to hear the experiences of other large riders on durablility of various components.

1. What kind of bike do you ride, what is the frame material and component group? How many miles have you ridden on it? Any problems?

Airborne Carpe Diem, a touring/cyclocross bike. I wanted a bike with a more upright sitting position than is typical on today's road bikes. The frame is titanium; which I think is a good choice for a big guy. If I wasn't on Ti, I would get steel. The grouppo is Ultegra,600 miles. Next week one of the shifters is being replaced under warranty. One of the CXP33 rims went out of true after 500 miles; this happened after a ride when I was going downhill fast on a rough road.

2. What kind of saddle and how comfortable is it on long, 3 hour + rides?

WTB Speed V, it's pretty good, even for long rides. I like the Brooks better, but it won't fit on the seatpost I use.

3. What kind of wheel set? How durable are they and what kind of problems, if any, have you had?
MAvic CXP33, Durace hubs, went out of true, like I said. Good choice for a clydesdale that wants a relatively light rim. They have a firmer ride than a traditional rim. If I had to do it over again, I would get 36 spokes on the rear rim.

4. What about tires? What kind have been the most durable for you?
I am using Avocets that they don't make anymore. The tire most like them is the Rivendell Rufy Tufy; which I will prob use next year.

5. Any problems with the bottom bracket?
I have been told the Ultegra BB is quite good, no problems so far

I would be most appreciative of any and all comments, experiences, and suggestions.
Sure, try reading this.... http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/reader_articles/raisestem.htm

My first road bike was a Schwinn Varsity I got well over 30 years ago. What I want is an updated version of that. The Varsity was as reliable as a rock. I used to ride heavily loaded into the next state without taking pump, spare, or patch kit.
The riding position was fairly upright, and was comfy for hours on end.
The frame had some flex that soaked up road shock nicely; and a stable geometry that turned as fast as anyone not racing needs to go.
Onkly a few bikes are made like that now. There are many good manufacturers out there, but a couple that have caught my eye are Rivendell (the pics on the internet does not do their bikes justice, they are beautiful. But were I to get one, I would get just the frame. They use retro parts, and I prefer STI) Waterford and it's discount brand Gunnar, Burly (I have not ridden this one yet, it just looks right, and my LBS owner just got one for her personal use, so it can't be too bad).
If you can afford it, titanium is nice. A good one to try is the Litespeed Tuscany. This is a sport/performance model. Something to be aware of is that most companies make touring/cyclocross frames. A touring bike should have a slow forgiving front end. A cyclocross bike needs a quick turning front end. If you get one of these frames, and put a narrow tire on, the bike turns really, really fast. Of course, most people wouldn't put a narrow tire ona touring bike, so that's prob an academic point for you.






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I'm 6'1", 240lbs

1. What kind of bike do you ride, what is the frame material and component group? How many miles have you ridden on it? Any problems?
I ride an aluminum Bianchi with Campy Mirage/Veloce/Centaur components. I've had it for almost a year and usually ride 200kms/week. I've never had any serious problems with much of anything yet, which surprises me as most of the roads around here aren't perfect or they are "tar and gravel".

2. What kind of saddle and how comfortable is it on long, 3 hour + rides?
The saddle that came with the bike, I believe it is a San Marco Azoto. Even after 3 hrs, I'm still very comfortable. The Selle Italia ProLink is quite comfortable for me also. Both saddles share similar dimensions and shape.

3. What kind of wheel set? How durable are they and what kind of problems, if any, have you had?
No problems with the wheelset. The wheelset is Campy Mirage hubs with FiR Net 97 rims, 32 hole. I've done some minor truing a few times, but nothing major. I have another wheelset with Campy hubs/Mavic Open Pro, 32 hole, and it's been quite durable and straight also.

4. What about tires? What kind have been the most durable for you?
Been wondering this myself. I had a set of Vittorio Tecno Sport's which lasted about 1000kms(front is still good). Currently using Michelin's with about 1000kms...rear is almost worn out, front is still like new....time to rotate.

5. Any problems with the bottom bracket?
The Mirage BB that came with the bike was feeling quite a bit looser than I thought it should be....actually, it was a bit loose when it was new. Replaced it with a Centaur BB and haven't had any problems for the past 700 kms.

I'm 6', 250. Recovering from surgery, so I'm ramping up slowly mileage wise. I'm at about 60 miles/week right now.

Bike: Specialized Allez Comp Cr-Mo. Been riding it for about a month. About 300 miles on it.
Groupset: Ultegra. No problems with anything.
Wheels: Shimano RH540. Low spoke count so I was concerened, but no problems so far. But, I haven't had the bike that long. They came with the bike.
Tires: I had the standard Specialized Pro Cippolini's but they were thorn magnets. Replaced them with Michelin Hi-Lite prestige's. Not enough data to say much about these. But, they were recomended by someone who helped me after my third flat one day.
Seat: Didn't like the Specialized Body Geometry saddle. My wife is using it now. Got a Terry Fly Ti. Very comfortable for me. But I tend to like saddles with a cutout.m Longest ride has been a little over two hours.

6'0 195lbs
1 Specialized Epic carbon with Ultegra. I have about 1500 miles on the frame. No problems just upgrades, carbon fork.
2 Flite Ti. Saddles are a very personal thing. I had to try many to find the right one.
3 Mavic Helium. This wheel are very strong for there weight. No problems just need to get them trued once a year. I will have to say that a good set of 32 hole wheels will work much better.
4 Just switched to Tufo tires, less than 200 miles. I have used Continential and Specialized. The Specialized where tough as nails. The Continential didn't last a season.
5 No problems with the Ultegra. Just need to replace it about every 1000 miles.

Originally posted by dwatson
5 No problems with the Ultegra. Just need to replace it about every 1000 miles.

Which Ultegra part? If you mean the entire drivetrain then I think you might be exagerating a little. That's awefully early for any level of parts to wear out... save those found on bikes at Walmart.

This bike is specifically marketed towards clydesdales. Light with lots of strength. Their customer service and support is excellent.

http://www.sampsonsports.com/z11.htm

6-1 244 on the scale today, that's up a bit as I've been pretty sedentary following surgery 6 weeks ago.

My #1 ride is a Colnago Master. My wheels are 32 spoke Campy Chorus on Mavic Open Pro CD rims. Currently riding the Tufo S33 Special "tubular clinchers." So far they've been great. The LBS that built them has a very solid rep. and I'd say my wheels confirm it. When I first started riding them a bit over a year ago my weight maxed out at 257 and they held up to that with no problems either.

FWIW my LBS claims, and I do trust them, that they put a 275lber on a LiteSpeed with Ksyriums and have had no problems. Like I said I trust what they tell me, though I believe they were sounding me out on buying a set of those wheels. Way too much $ for me.

I am 6' and weighed 245. I never even thought about weight when I bought my bike, and got a standard Lemond bike just like everybody else.

So far, after almost 7,000 miles, it (and I) have worked just fine. I think we make too much about weight.

I now weigh 220, and rode 60 miles today on this bike. Still going strong.

Actualy the Ksyrium are known for their strength, if cost is not a objec it is a great wheelset. Main problem is proprietary spokes which most likely your LBS will not stock and they cost quite a bit if you have to ever replace them. Heard some problems a while back about bearings going bad in them, but the Ksyriums can take quite a bit of abuse, but they are expensive no doubt about that.

240 ish range here.

I ride a Trek 2003 model 2000, Al frame, 105 and tiagra. Wheels, Bontrager select with Fortezza tires at 145 lbs. Prolink gel saddle.

No problems with any of this setup, and so far I have 1400 miles on it as of this morning! I usto think I wanted a steel ride but have either gotten acostomed to the frame or the steel I have ridden is about the same.

I'm 6'2" and weigh 240 (as of this morning). I ride a Fuji Roubaix with Rithcey Comp hubs, 28 hole, and Ritchey Pro rims. Drivetrain is Shimano 105, and the saddle is the Fuji stock saddle. I bought the bike the last day of May, and have over 800 miles on it. I was concerned about the wheels, but so far no problems. The lbs rebuilt a 36-spoke rear wheel on a Trek hybrid I bought May, 2002, because I was popping spokes right and left, but the people there were confident I'd have no problems with these wheels. The saddle is a saddle; it works for me. I bought the Fuji because it was significantly less expensive than other bikes with 105 components.

Prosody,
That is good to hear about the Roubaix. When I first saw the bike, I pretty much fell in love with it. It is a beautiful ride, but I was warned by several people that the Ritchey components, espesially the wheels, wouldn't hold up. One LBS told me that he had one 275lb guy riding one with not problems, but I wrote that off to salesman's hype.

It is good to hear real world experience with the Roubaix. It might just go back on my list, as the LBS has a 61cm one for $1200 with full 105's.

Whatever wheels, it is important to have the spokes "tension relieved" after purchase and riding for a short while.

After reading reviews of the Ritchey wheels I was worried about their durability, but the people at the lbs told me they believed the wheels would hold up fine, and they have been great about taking care of the wheels on my hybrid. I figured that, at worst, I'd have some spoke problems and might have to have a different rear wheel. I took the bike in after about 100 miles to have the wheels checked. Later this month, when I hit 1000 miles on the bike, I'll take in in again. I suppose big guys like us just have to take better care of our wheels.

6'2" 205lbs, and extremely happy with my LeMond Victoire. Bought it a month and a half ago and have around 800 miles. Basically the same set-up as the Zurick I think, except it's Ti instead of steel.

Besides falling for the Fuji Roubaix, I have also fallen for the Lemond Zurich, thought I fear it will be out of my price range. If I get a Lemond, it will probably be the Alpe D'Huez, which has the same frame as the Buenos Aires and almost the same component group for about $300 less.

The Roubaix Pro will also now be an option. I seem to be leaning towards a steal frame, or the Trek 2300's alloy.

Thanks to everyone for you help. By the time I actually buy my bike, 22 May next year, I hope to have so much information I will overwhelm my LBS with my "expert" knowledge.

I'm 6'3" and weigh 215 lbs. I have ridden a Trek 2300 for the past two years and have logged over 3000 miles on it. I was concerned at first with the weight of the bike and the low spoke count but this has never been a problem.

I'm 6'4", 260. I just got a used trek 2000 about 2 weeks ago and I've already put 200 miles on it. In my experience with all kinds of bikes, good components are good components, regardless of your weight. As for the seat, I've just always used smaller ones. I currently have a Coda 900 and it's fine. Granted, since I've been putting more miles on that normal, my butt hurts a bit more, but that's just conditioning. The only concern might be the spokes. I've heard larger guys should not get the new wheels with about half the spokes...
My other two bikes have been mtb and they've lasted for over 5 years of reguar riding. I've really been surprised (so far) with how sturdy the road bike is...

Originally posted by DnvrFox
Whatever wheels, it is important to have the spokes "tension relieved" after purchase and riding for a short while.

What is "tension relieved?"

On that note, does anyone own a spoke tensionometer? If so, are they worth the expense? I recently paid $25 to have six spokes replaced on my rear wheel and have it trued. A few times doing this and I could have bought one from Parks!

Originally posted by TrekRider
What is "tension relieved?"



From Sheldon Brown's Glossary:

Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes

Before a wheel is ready for the road it must be stress relieved, because the bend in the spoke has to accommodate itself to the shape of the hub flange and vice versa, and a similar process may go on where the nipple sits in the rim. Some wheelbuilders do this by flexing the whole wheel, others by grabbing the spokes in groups of 4 and squeezing them together. My preferred technique is to use a lever to bend the spokes around each other where they cross. My favorite lever for this is an old left crank:

This particular technique has the added advantage of bending the spokes neatly around each other at the crossing, so they run straight from the crossing in both directions. As you go around the wheel this way you will probably hear creaks and pinging sounds as the parts come into more intimate terms with each other.
After you do this, you will probably have to do some touch-up truing, then repeat the stressing process until it stops making noise and the wheel stops going out of true.

Jobst Brandt, author of the excellent book The Bicycle Wheel points out a less obvious benefit of this stressing of the spokes:

"...After cold forming, steel always springs back a certain amount (spokes are entirely cold formed from wire). Spring-back occurs because part of the material exceeded its elastic limit and part did not. The disparate parts fight each other in tension and compression, so that when the spoke is tensioned, it adds to the tensile stress that can be, and often is, at yield.

"...When spokes are bent into place, they yield locally and addition of tension guarantees that these places remain at yield. Because metal, at or near the yield stress has a short fatigue life, these stresses must be relieved to make spokes durable.

"...These peak stresses can be relieved by momentarily increasing spoke tension (and stress), so that the high stress points of the spoke yield and plastically deform with a permanent set. When the stress relief force is relaxed these areas cannot spring back having, in effect, lost their memory, and drop to the average stress of the spoke."


If you have done this, you will wind up with a wheel that is true and round, and will stay that way better than most machine made wheels. In addition, you will have learned a lot about truing wheels, and you will feel more like a real professional mechanic.

Thanks, Denver. The more cycling boards I subscribe to and the more knowledgable people I talk to, the smarter I am going to be when I get my new roadie next year!

Here's an new one. I had stopped to refill my water bottle and as I was taking off, I had just got my feet in the straps, and was up on the pedals going up a small hill. When I attempted to sit down, the bolt that holds the seat to the seat post snapped!

Could have been quite painful had I been more fatigued, but I managed to maintain decorum and not topple over.

I picked up all the pieces and rode home, pretending I was Lance Armstrong hammering up the Alpe D'Huez.

The more I ride this bike, the more I am convinced I have streteched to its limitations.

Next May can't come fast enough. In the meantime, I am stocking up on spokes, bolts, lube, etc.

I'm 6ft 255-260. I have a Specialized Allez Elite. It's aluminum and I've no problems.

Seat - I bought a Specialized Milano. Still looks like a road seat but it comfortable as hell.

Wheels - I did a ton of research on this and emailed just about every manufacturer and even exaggerated on my needs. The only two companies who offered high end wheels (light, durable, and fast) that said they had complete confidense was Bontrager and Velomax.. the Aero Light and Tempest II respectively. No one else would back their wheels.

Tires - I just got Fotenzas. I don't have a lot of mile on them, but just did a triathlon and I do believe I could notice a better ride then my Specialized Turbos the bike came with.

I'm in the 250 range as well.

I ride a 2000 LeMond Zurich w/full Ultegra. Great bike. Hate the wheels.

Go with what most have said and get a traditional wheelset. I have a pair of Rolf Vector Comps and the front (yes, front) has a tendency to go out of true when I do a lot of stand-up pedaling.

The other thing I've changed is the single bolt seat post. I switched to a Thompson Elite and cannont say enough good things about these. They are lightweight yet incredibly strong and the double bolt system is bombproof and allows for micro-adjustments, meaning I can set the seat angle precisely where I want it.

Tires, I usually go with low to mid range tires because of the amount of debris on the roads around here. I'm no racer, so I like a cheaper tire that even though may be heavier, seems to have a bit more "meat" on it. I've got a set of Continental Sport 1000's (I think!), they've held up very well, but are a bit more slippery when the road is wet. They have a harder durometer, so the rubber is harder, but they last forever.

The Ultra 2000's are good tires as well, but the shop only had one at the time I bought new ones, so I went with a matching pair of Sport's.

L8R

Originally posted by a2psyklnut
I'm in the 250 range as well.

I ride a 2000 LeMond Zurich w/full Ultegra.

I am jealous! I cannot begin to say how much I want a LeMond. I first saw a Tourmalet, and thought this is it. Then, I saw a BA, and changed my mind. Then, came the Zurich and this is it! It is over my budget, especially with the upgrades I will need - wheelset, mainly, and I want the Ultrega Pedals and Sidi Genius 4 shoes.

Well, I am 6' tall and right now I am 200 lbs and working down to 190 lbs. I have been up to 220+ though.

Bike. Well over the years I have riddden Cannondales. I have put 30,000+ on three different Cannondales. I haven't had any problems with the 'dales - well one did fail at this strange thing they did at the rear drop out after 30,000 miles but Cannondale gave me a new frame free and it was a newer model.

Components: I have been using Shimano 105. It holds up pretty well. I have a set with over 40,000 miles on it. Had to replace some stuff. Replaced the bottom bracket and the shifters but that was it.

Saddles: I am using a Terry Fly and it is reasonably comfortable. I have toyed with the notion of using a Brooks.

Wheels: For some reason a break up wheels. I break them up even when I get down to 190 because I go a lot faster at 190 then 230. I have always ridden 36 spoke wheels. I used to ride MA40s. These worked fine but generally failed at just over 10,000 miles. I have since shifted to Mavic T519 wheels. I have a set with 40,000+ miles on it. It seems to be pretty bullet proof. It is not a wheel set for those trying to save weight.

Tires: I generally ride a fairly large tire. I have had good luck with Performance Ultra 2000 25 mm. I figure the 25 mm gives me a bit more wear and a bit more flat resistance. Sure it isn't light but I would rather have the durability.

Bottom Bracket: Hasn't been an issue.

Now I have had friends who were quite large. One friend started riding at 300+ lbs. He lost weight and rides at 220 now I think. I believe that his lean weight would be less then mine.

I have another friend who is 6'6" and around 230. He is lean at about 220. So he is a big guy. I think he rides a Trek and an ordinary wheel set.

We had a guy in one club I was in who was quite big - 6'8" with a lean weight of about 260. I think his riding weight was near 300 lbs and he didn't luck that pudgy at that weight either. I don't know what he rode but he was able to find something that wasn't too far from stock.

I'm 6'5", 280lbs and I ride a Specialized Allez Sport. I ride about 300 miles a week, give or take a few, the bike is all stock and I've had no problems at all. I took to my lbs after the first 600 miles and all they did was adjust the spoke tension.

I'm 6'4" and wiegh 250lbs. Been riding a Cannondale R3000 (aluminum) with the original Dura-Ace components. Kept the Fiziks Pogo saddle that came wiht the bike. I've tried several other that have come highly recommended (e.g., Sella italia) but haven't found anything more comfortable than the Fizikz. I think the fact that it's completely seemless helps.

I've added the new Drua-Ace peddles which are great!

The Mavic Ksyrium SSCs are incredible!! Can't say enough. They have stayed true under all types of conditions (pot holes, sewer grates, etc). No flat spots or anything. They've been going strong for over a year (and 2,000 miles) and now only need a very minor adjusment. Highly recommended.

Originally posted by Kev
. Main problem is proprietary spokes which most likely your LBS will not stock and they cost quite a bit if you have to ever replace them. .


Who cares if your LBS does not stock Ksyrium spokes. The internet and UPS/DHL/Fed ex make getting spokes very easy.

Originally posted by stinkfist
Who cares if your LBS does not stock Ksyrium spokes. The internet and UPS/DHL/Fed ex make getting spokes very easy.

Well... it's more than just that. [1] the spokes are pricey. I think I was quoted as much as $5/spoke by one place and [2] if you break one while on the road, be sure to carry the special spoke wrench too.

BTW, I got all sorts of funky little tools with my Ksyriums. Someone want to help me identify some of them?

http://www.neebu.net/~khuon/albums/mavic-ksyrium-tools/PICT0004.jpg


I know this star-shaped thing is the special spokewrench because of the pattern of those faces on the inside of the hole.

http://www.neebu.net/~khuon/albums/mavic-ksyrium-tools/PICT0005.jpg


I think the paddle thing is a cone adjustment tool but it also looks like the other end is a tyre lever. is that correct?

http://www.neebu.net/~khuon/albums/mavic-ksyrium-tools/PICT0006.jpg


I'm not really sure what this round thing is. It looks like the slots fit the bladed spokes but I'm not sure what its purposes is.

http://www.neebu.net/~khuon/albums/mavic-ksyrium-tools/PICT0007.jpg

I’m 6’9” and weight 320 Lbs I had a Mandaric custom frame build out of Scandium the big concern seemed to be finding wheels to hold me so we had a set of Mavic T520 with 36 hole hoops put on some Xt hubs with 2.0 spokes they seem to be holding up just fine.

Like Uciflylow's post, I also have a 2003 Trek 2000 (aluminum with carbon forks). I weigh 210-220 and carry over 20 pounds in my packs etc. on my long distance rides of 50-150 miles each. I have logged 2000 miles with no problems except my own stupidity :D