Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - What's the brightest headlight I can get for $200?

Handlebar mounted.

Thanks, T

someones used HID system

Jetlites (http://jetlites.com/products.html) makes some for a bit more then that ($265). Batteryspace (http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=1012) sells some HIDs in that price range. You could also cobble together a nice halogen system for about that. Get a TrailRat and a Headtrip from Performance ($190) and 2 15W bulbs from Batteryspace ($6). Swap out the bulbs and you'll have 2 lamps in case something goes wrong with one of them...and something will go wrong, eventually;) The run time won't be as long but you can always get more batteries for longer run times.

batteryspace.com has a trailtech+house brand li battery hid rig for 200

they have a long history of problems with the TT supplied switch/current regulator and BS batteries over 12v nominal. probably better off getting the 3x3.7v li battery, dont need regulation and can always wire in your own switch if it fails.

How much battery life do you need? In general when it comes to lights the equation is like this

Light output * Battery Life = Cost

You can lots of light with a short battery life relatively cheap. You can get long battery life and a dim light cheap. Both at once costs a pretty penny.

I second cyccommute's comment. IMO halogen's are the way to go at that price point. I also recommend Jetlites as the all around best buy for a premade system.

I finished my "do-it-yourself" halogen bike light project last week. I've got a 10watt bulb as my primary and a 20 watt energy saver (shines like a 35 watt bulb) as my hi-beam.

I knew nothing of electronics and I can tell you it was pretty painless (and fun) making my own system. I didn't check the prices, but I'm sure I am well under $200. Probably closer to $100.

For regular road-riding, the 10 watt bulb is plenty.

My 20 watt (shines like a 35watt) is powerful enough to freeze deer in their tracks (I speak from experience). I would feel utterly safe using it mountain biking (if I mtn biked ;). Right now, I only use it for incredibly sharp descents or foggy days.

What I am saying is, if you got a few days, why don't you try to make your own? There are plenty of guys here that helped me.

If you don't mind some kludginess, I would lean toward 4 Cree LED flashlights (about $50 each) similar to the Fenix brand that is very popular here. The latest 2AA version puts out 175 lumens per flashlight, so 4 would be 700 lumens or equivalent to a 25W halogen light--which is pretty damn bright.

Having said that, I prefer halogen myself, since I feel the yellow-white color illuminates much better at the same intensity than a blue-white light. IMHO, it gives better contrast, depth perception and more accurate color reproduction...but that's just me. However, commercially available halogens at 25W with a respectable runtime (>2 hours) are pretty darn expensive, running into the $300 range.

As for HIDs, forget it. They're already being handily outpaced by LEDs in terms of efficiency and brightness...witness Lupine's new Betty line of lights. There's just too many disadvantages with HIDs like long startup times, bulb replacement costs, and safety issues (high pressures and toxic mercury). These issues cannot be overlooked anymore since LEDs are brighter now.

I'm going to say again though that I will be keeping my 25W halogen because of the better illumination inherent from black-body radiation :D

As for HIDs, forget it. They're already being handily outpaced by LEDs in terms of efficiency and brightness...witness Lupine's new Betty line of lights. There's just too many disadvantages with HIDs like long startup times, bulb replacement costs, and safety issues (high pressures and toxic mercury). These issues cannot be overlooked anymore since LEDs are brighter now.


Witness Lupine Betty blinding price tag: $1,350.

Thats a major disadvantage that cannot be overlooked.

It's outrageous no question, but once other manufacturers enter the fray, the price will hopefully go down. As for me, I won't buy a light that costs more than my bike...which means I need to buy a more expensive bike ;)

Under $200? No question: The Trailtech Eclipse 13W HID system.

I got it from batteryspace.com for $197 with shipping.

The price is normally $199, I found a discount coupon on the web for the
batteryspace site and they sent it to me and no problems.

The startup time is immediate but useable light starts at 5 seconds and
then max brightness is at 10 seconds. Bulb price is probably going to be
annoying come replacement time but....

I can't see paying $360 for a Nightrider Trinewt which is 500 lumen -
the prices need to come down and I need to be able to get LED at
a price level and brightness level I'm used to (725 lumens for < $200).

I like that Lupine light but I could buy a whole new bike for that
kind of cash.

Back to my HID:

Beamshot at maximum brightness.


Here's a video I did with it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIn3OWG6YK0

Is this the light you have.. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2784
the specs say it is a 10 watt bulb?

I heard the 30 watt versions run too hot and shut off frequently. I live in a desert climate, so I'm sure that light wouldn't work for me.

Where did you find the coupon?

Thanks, T

Hi - no this one:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1395

The only reason the 30 watters (or any HID) shuts down is because if you don't get enough
forward movement the HID will overheat - you need 5 mph of forward movement to keep the
lamp cool or it shuts down to protect itself.

The coupon was here I believe:
http://www.edealinfo.com/Coupons/batteryspace.shtml

How many lumens is that light?

Thanks, T

How many lumens is that light?

Thanks, T

You might want to do a search on that light. Many folks at this forum and others have had a host of problems with them.

You might want to do a search on that light. Many folks at this forum and others have had a host of problems with them.

wow, someone should have mentioned that ...

i recommend this one instead

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2880

weighs less (li vs nimh), 35% longer battery life, same price.

more importantly, the lower voltage battery won't smoke the controller (like the fully charged 13.2 & 14.8v have/will). if the controller quits working you can straight wire the battery to the ballast (well, do add an on/off switch).

light output will be a bit lower - 550 lumens, vs 600@13v. but it'll still be plenty bright.


Allensporebomb - is that the 6 or 12 degree lamp pictured?

wow, someone should have mentioned that ...

i recommend this one instead

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2880

weighs less (li vs nimh), 35% longer battery life, same price.

more importantly, the lower voltage battery won't smoke the controller (like the fully charged 13.2 & 14.8v have/will). if the controller quits working you can straight wire the battery to the ballast (well, do add an on/off switch).

light output will be a bit lower - 550 lumens, vs 600@13v. but it'll still be plenty bright.


Allensporebomb - is that the 6 or 12 degree lamp pictured?
There have been more than just problems with the things you mentioned. There have also been numerous problems with the mount for the light slipping while riding, mounting the switch to the handlebars, and with the coiled cable from the battery.

How many lumens is that light?

Thanks, T

They say it's 30% brighter than the 500 lumen 10 watt one so somewhere in the 710-725 lumen area.

To respond to everyone:

What is the light:
-That's the 6 degree spot. I'm going to try doing some more beamshots soon.

What is the lumens:
-They report the 10watt one is 500 lumen and the 13 watt is supposedly 30%
brighter, I'm guessing 710-725 lumens. It's plenty bright.

Next up regarding slipping bar mounts:
I've no experience with the handlebar mount since I mount the light to
my helmet. I have four bikes, I'm not going to use a bar mount because
it would be a pain to do that. The hardware certainly looks nicer than
the plastic bar mounts that the cheap LED lights I also own use. Also
remember that Trailtech (the company that produces the lights) is really
in business to supply lighting to ATV and Motocross motorcycle uses so
your mileage may vary.

The helmet mount works fine and lets me aim light where I need it. If
you have >1 bike you'd do the same.

The problems people report seem to be endemic to a different system:
"Trailtech Single 13 W HID Helmet Llighting with 14.8V Li-Ion Battery /
1.5A Fast Smart Charger 4800mAh Li-Ion Pack 6 Degree Spot (Part#: HM-HID3121SXC01)"

(See this thread: http://forums.batteryspace.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13044 here)

I've read two issues - one that the switch is "iffy" and not necessarily waterproof,
the waterproof switch is sold separately if you want one and another issue I've
heard was that some felt the 14v system was too much power to the lamp/switch.
I don't know, I haven't experienced any of those problems since that's not the
system I bought. I'm just passing on what others reported but I didn't get that
system, partially based on the reports.

This is the system I got:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1395

Which is the "TrailTech Single 13 W HID Helmet Light with 13.2V 4.2Ah NiMh Flat Pack +
Smart Charger part HM-HID3121SXC02". Similar but not the same. Different battery,
different charger.

This system has worked well so far - in fact, I was using it most evenings since
July 20 and only just a couple days ago needed to charge it again. They claim
4.2 hours of runtime but the battery seems to charge faster than claimed and
also runs longer than claimed. It may be the fact that this is a brand new
battery and a brand new light.

I've also heard that Trailtech has redesigned the activation switch several times
since batteryspace has marketed them, it's possible flaws in the initial designs
were spotted and eliminated.

Issues with wiring?
Personally, I carry the battery in a camelbak pocket, then the clips that clip the
camelbak to my body act as retainers for the cable with the inline switch and the
cable goes up the back of my helmet. The switch sits at my right hip. The switch
has a bright led to indicate power is operating - this acts also as a great way for
motorists to see me from the side too.


Next on the complaints list you'll find some people find their tech help on the batteryspace
forum are largely english-as-a-second-language types. I suspect the guy is from Hong Kong
or the like - I have had no problems but most people end up getting things RMA'ed out
if needed.

I've had some people recommend buying the lights from Trailtech directly and you can indeed
do that but you'd have to source a power source separately I'm told.

Your mileage may vary.

Yesterday I was appraised of this particular link too:
http://bilbys.org/pipermail/mtb/2005q1/000916.html

All HID lights needs 5-10 mph of forward airflow or bulb damage can
result (overheating) but this particular type indicates if you sit there
with the light on with no forward airflow the reflector can get munged
up if the silicon keeping the lens inside the assembly overheats (it
basically vaporizes/offgasses supposedly).

So, the word to the rider is: keep moving. If you absolutely need
to stop use a little penlight or other light if you have a mechanical.

It's a good idea anyway to have a backup.

Light and Motion Solo MV Li-ion. Bike Nashbar - $189 plus additional 20% off using coupon at top of page equals $163 and change delivered. Light and Motion Stella Nimh $199 minus 20% + shipping.

www.night-sun.com Get their team issue and replace their bulbs with 50-watters; MR-16

If you want to really go over-board there are some PAR 36 and 56 100 watt bulbs used in search lights for $30-40. Add a suitable massive battery , charger and such. Useful if you are setting land speed records at night.

All HID lights needs 5-10 mph of forward airflow or bulb damage can
result (overheating) but this particular type indicates if you sit there
with the light on with no forward airflow


So this means that everytime I stop for a light ~ 100s max, I have to turn off my HID and use my backup. Yeesh, nuts to HID in that case.

You might want to have a look here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=345816

So this means that everytime I stop for a light ~ 100s max, I have to turn off my HID and use my backup. Yeesh, nuts to HID in that case.

Halogen are the same way - they recommend you not operate them while sitting
at a standstill for extended periods lest the bulbs get ruined. My wife's Niterider
Classic Select setup warns very strictly about avoiding running them while sitting
stationary for extended periods.

I propose this: Is this just legal BS made to scare cyclists because they had a rash
of complaints from people who were using them inside to impress their friends or light
their ceilings up or did they have a rash of people using the headlights as camping
lights which then burnt out?

How do cars that sit stationary with HID headlights on for minutes at a time avoid this?
Halogen is the same way - cars sit idle waiting for people to get out of stores and I've
run Halogen headlights since the 1980s with no issues.

I'm told if the HID is truly too hot it will shut off to protect itself. I've not encountered this.
I've run HID since July too and it's still stupid bright and works fine.

Frankly, my HID works fine at a stoplight and then I continue on but if you're
paranoid turn the thing off.

I still maintain it's legalese because they had people using them for extended periods
and they overheated or something.

There was one person who posted on the net that they found that using high powered
lights while stationary caused the heat generated to vaporize the epoxy that held the
lens in place which then settled on the reflector causing the light to not be as bright
since the reflector was not clean anymore - they found a way to open it and use a
cotton swab with alcohol to brush the reflector off and no problems.

That seems, to me, like a very rare occurrence. I should post this as another thread.

Okay, I posted a message about limitations of these lights. It turns out the new generation of
bright leds have the same problem too:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=5313462