Hey all.
I've been working on accumulating (read buying) all the parts for my Nashbar build and I'm a little over half way with it. One thing I have decided to do is go for the On One Midge bars after reading several positive articles about them (and people on here recommending them as wel). It seems that they should be setup so that the drops are at least even with the seat height which brings with it some issues and/or questions. I've decided that the only way to get them that high would be not to cut the fork steerer tube. (I have the Nashbar Carbon forks on this build) so what I really need to know is what should I do about this unusual steerer tube height. Is it safe to just use spacers for that much height. Looks to be about 4" or should I use the method on Sheldon Brown's site:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html? Is this safe for off roading? anyone else have a better idea? I'll be using a Ritchey WCS mtb stem if that matters.

cheers
Tony O

http://somafab.com/stems_sf.html ?

I've got Midge bars, I run them about 2 ins below saddle height. I also change hand position a lot, and i don't have any problem reaching into the drops, and quite happily ride off-road, on road, all over everything else in whatever position. Possibly try an adjustable stem to get the positioning right..?

I guess for general info, here are a couple links where I am getting this idea about proper setup of midge bars. Mine are still in the mail so I can't confirm any of this, but good info none the less:
http://www.63xc.com/mattc/midge.htm#TOP

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=82928

anyhow..thanks for the reply. Don't know about adjustable stems but that is sort of what I was thinking, that until I get them dialed in, would prefer NOT to cut the steerer tube. I also like the idea of keeping the geometry similar to old school road bike handlebar setup. Like the bigger one in this photo:
http://store.somafab.com/nilust.html

which is sort of what mine would look like if I kept steerer long than went with fairly straight stem.
I guess it bears repeating though, is the suggestion on Sheldon's site (using seat color to lock height) dangerous for off roading? is using a bunch of spacers dangerous?

thanks for all the suggestions thus far.
-Tony O

I didn't find the need to put the midge bars way up high. Mine were about 2" or so below the saddle. My issue with the bars is the drop section is too short. I can't comfortably fit my hands on the straight ends of the bars.

I also like the idea of keeping the geometry similar to old school road bike handlebar setup. Like the bigger one in this photo:
http://store.somafab.com/nilust.html
which is sort of what mine would look like if I kept steerer long than went with fairly straight stem.A threaded stem can look good that way, but threadless? A think a tilted stem is the way to go for a dirtdrop. Nitto, in fact, makes a threaded stem called the dirt drop:
http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/0638/16-100_site_DD.jpg

Don't cut your stem.

Yet.

As far as height? You don't need to run the hooks at saddle level. On my bike the top of the Midge bar is level with the saddle and the drops fall comfortably lower.

Get a high-rise stem-- like a 35 or 40 degree and experiment with height before you cut your steerer. Then, once you've got it sorted out-- cut the excess steerer off.

As for the hooks being too short? Try a set of Velox rubber bar-end plugs. Other riders that have "complained" of the bar being too short have found the Velox plugs a good solution.

[QUOTE=Tony O;5169644

It seems that they should be setup so that the drops are at least even with the seat height which brings with it some issues and/or questions. [/QUOTE]

Why would it seem that? Are the bars on your mountain bike way up over the saddle? How about the road bike drop bars? So why on earth would you have these things jacked up there like some blue haired lady's paved path bike. Unless you usually ride your bike in a "sit up and beg" posture then this all is silly.

The idea of having a short drop like those is that you can get the tops down and still have a comfy reach to the drops. Put them where they're comfortable and efficient.

Ron

whoops, that should have read the flat bar even with your seat and I didn't come up with this idea. Read the article I linked to. He elaborates quite well on the "proper" setup of the Midge bars. I don't even have the things so I can't really concur or disagree. When I get them, I will be happy to post my own thoughts on them, though I am a bit worried about how short the drops are since that seems to be a common complaint.

cheers,
Tony O

That guy's a total whack job riding fixed mountain bikes and setting up the bars so he can live in the hooks and drops. Not a bad idea either, but not a cyclocross setup. Guess that's the thing, it all comes down to how you ride and where.

Let us know where you end up with 'em.

Ron

to be honest, I don't feel comfortable at_all riding in the drops. I don't know, maybe my bike isn't setup properly or maybe it's just yrs of riding a cruiser and 3 speed - way upright. The first thing I did when I won a JTS on ebay was turn the drop bars up so that the bar ends are pointing towards bottom bracket.
I ride almost exclusively on the hoods and flat bar, which is why I want to try these midge bars out. If
they don't work for me, check ebay in a few weeks ;P

I will post pics of complete bike build so people can ridicule me, but first I need to acquire the last few parts to finish this thing up (derailleurs, shifters and cassette) and find out if sti shifters will work with SRAM mtn bike derailleur (posted in mechanics forum).

thanks for all the help
cheers
Tony O