Fifty Plus (50+) - Should switch to drops feel like a train wreck?

Long time listener, first time caller.

Should switching from years of riding flat-bar bikes to one with drop bars leave you feeling like you've been in a train wreck after the 1st 45 miles, with aching neck muscles and a sore back?

I've been riding a Bianchi Strada w/ flat bar for thousands of enjoyable miles, and a Cannondale hybrid before that, but with a significant birthday coming up, my husband wanted to indulge my fantasy for a custom-made bike and this past Friday, I picked up a new Waterford at a shop a good 2 hours away. The LBS guy who took all the measurements did what seemed like an exacting final fitting, but I had a 'stretched out' feeling that he said I "would get used to" and insisted that "your position on the bike looks good...you have to lean onto the hoods differently than you handled your flat bar bike."

Okay, I thought, I'll try it.

There was a lot to like about the bike on Sunday's 45-mile ride, but afterward, the pain started at the base of my neck and in the lumbar region of my back that only today (Weds.) is beginning to resolve. I called the bike shop guy, who said, again, that I need to go on shorter rides to "get used to" a more stretched position, but this contradicts what others have said about bike fit: 'the bike should fit YOU, don't try to fit the bike.'

So I'm asking for your input: does switching to drop bars, indeed, 'take getting used to,' or should I insist on adjustments that are more comfortable NOW?

Bluetail

Well, any change in position takes "getting used to."

Are you spending a lot of time "in the drops?" If so, don't. Reserve the drop position for special times, such as against the wind to fast downhills, if you like.

Also, learn to "tuck" your chin into your chest, rather than stretching your neck out.

I would give it a few more tries, easing into it. If the issue doesn't resolve, look at having your bars raised a bit. Most of us have had to do that (I am almost 68 yo) to accommodate our "changing" body. But, I still like drop bars.

Also, if you are using a visor, it will cause neck stretch.

Good advice from Fox. BTW, you may be able to get handlebars with shallow drops. I have some on one bike and like 'em.

I ride with drop handlebars but am only in the drops maybe 10% of the time. I can't ride there always, but I like having them there to tuck down when going downhill and it helps my comfort to change positions on occasion.

It took me two to three weeks for my neck and upper back muscles to become fully acclimated to drop bars. BTW, I ride the hoods or the ramps 98% of the time, the drops the remaining 2% and never on the tops.

It's not an issue of fit as much as it is a matter of those muscles never having been used in the way before.

As I got older (52 now), I noticed the drops were bothering me in the way you described. Even though I ride on the hoods most the time I did three things. First I increased my flexibility with a regular stretching regime. Second, I raised my handle bars so they were even or slightly above the seat. Then I purchased Nitto Noodle drop handlebarsbars from Rivendell. They 'Noodles' are shaped very ergonomicly.

Hope this helps.

Bluetail-

Here's what I know about bike shops and "fit"; too many of them think that what fits a 20 year old also fits a 50-year old. You don't, possibly in a modest display of discretion, mention your age. Most of us in this forum seem to be going from drop bars to straight bar, not the other way around. The folks chiming in so far know what they're talking about regarding fixing the fit and you are wise to try their suggestions. But there is no shame in riding a good straight bar bike. The only real benefit is speed; if you're happy going 12-15, a straight bar is fine. If you want to average over 17, you need the drops.

Also, glasses are important. I've got one pair of glasses that make me crane my neck more than others.

Long time listener, first time caller.



Mr Obvious, you're a life saver.

Farther the drop, the more sensitive the position. I rode shallow drops for quite a while. Nice.

I've got my position just about dialed in - virtually the same as it was in 1974, but I've been working on it lots. 9 cm drop. And that may be just a bit aggressive for short rides, takes me a while to work into it. On the other hand, it's great downhill and into a strong wind! But I'll flip my stem sometime and see if 2 cm higher is a good thing for me.

Most of us in this forum seem to be going from drop bars to straight bar, not the other way around.

Please explain the advantage of a straight bar over a drop bar at the same height. Somehow, I just don't get it??

A straight bar removes hand positions, and if the drop bar is the same height - well, I just can't figure it out. Also, I don't think lots of folks are switching to straight bars, but maybe we need a poll?


[EDIT:]
Please see the drop bar/flat bar poll at:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338544

Should switching from years of riding flat-bar bikes to one with drop bars leave you feeling like you've been in a train wreck after the 1st 45 miles, with aching neck muscles and a sore back?
Bluetail

Absolutely. That's the only reason they exist - because the bicycling world is populated by masochists. Next we'll have you on a Brooks saddle. ;)

Of course, this is a load of poo. I agree with most of everything that has been posted (except the guy who thinks speed is the only advantage of drop bars.)

You may have jumped in a little too fast, or you may need to do some tweaking to your position. But it is not unusual for there to be some discomfort when you first switch to a new riding position. Another thing to consider is that it is very possible that being a little unsure of the new arrangement is causing you to tighten your muscles, adding to the strain. Try to relax on the bike and it will feel better.

It does take some getting used to as others have said. A little stiff after a ride, sure. But it shouldn't feel like a "train wreck". Yes indeed, "the bike should fit you, not you fit the bike".

As others have suggested, try raising the stem/bars. Also, try a shorter stem so you're not so "stretched out". Sounds like they fit you with too much reach.

As you get used to drop bars you can lower the stem/bar later for a more "aggressive" riding position. I started out with my bars level with the saddle on my road bike (it has an adjustable stem) but I've lowered them since to about an inch below. But I still might go with a shorter stem. I like the feel of the shorter reach on my old Schwinn f/g conversion.

I think kerlenbach nailed it too about how some bike shops will try to fit a 50 year old as they would a 20 year old.

Go back to the bike shop with your concerns and these suggestions. You dropped some serious coin on them for that bike. They owe you better than that nonsense about "getting used to it".

Bike fit cannot be entirely reduced to measurements and formulae. They can only yield a first approximation.

dnvr's right about the visor too. I found the same thing.

I am sure that besides the discomfort you must be having a large dose of buyer’s remorse about your new bike. I had a similar situation when I purchased a new bike a few years ago. I always had drop bars but after 30 or so miles on my new bike I was in great pain. I went back to my LBS and they compared my old bike to the new one. In two minutes they discovered that the stem angle was the same but the length of the new stem was a few millimeters longer. They swapped out the stem for a shorter one and the pain disappeared. With a little experimenting on your stem angle and length I am sure that you will find that your new bike will be a joy to ride. I know that with a little adjusting you will find the perfect fit and will begin to enjoy your new ride. All the best.

Adding to the above..........learn to stretch periodically on the bike to keep yourself loose and not static. Roll your shoulders, hunch your back, roll your head, sit up straight and stand on the pedals, arch your back, etc. If one is not comfortable in the drops and just grips them, one ends up tightening his/her body and-- getting static. Switch positions frequently. Chances are, bike fit being OK, you will adapt to and appreciate the varied hand positions drop bars offer. Nothing wrong with, in the beginning or forever after, having your bar tops level or even a bit above your saddle. Hopefully you have a sensible threaded headset and can use a Nitto Technomic stem.) Hang in there.

I started out with a flat bar like most people do and then I switched to trekking bars. I had to use a 3" riser and I had the adjustible stem as high as it would go. Now the riser is gone and I'm as low as I want to go. It will give you more power, but Like everybody said here, it takes time. It took a year and now I have no problem getting into drops or laying behind/or on the trekking bars. Anyhow it took a year and almost 4000 miles to get there, but if you work at it, it will come, good luck.

Lots of good advice here! Wait until you're 62 and dealing with creaky wrists and elbows! That said, the drop bars should be more comfortable overall than flats because you have more hand positions. All things being equal, you should have been able to do your 45 miles (perhaps a bit much first time out on a new machine) with your hands atop the bars and feel the same comfort level as with flat bars -- don't you think? You might want to consider 1) raising the bar and 2) whether you should be using a shorter stem and even a riser stem. Have you measured the length of the top tube and stem to see if you now have a longer dimension in this regard than your Bianchi? Some stretching and strengthening of neck and back muscles will help, as will shorter rides for the first few weeks with the new bars, but do look closely at the above possibilities. Probably, one is extremely lucky if fit is spot on at the first attempt.

I have two bikes that get most of my saddle time these days..a flat bar Fuji road bike (with shortened bars and longish barends) and a Trek 520 w/ a long quill, short stem, and Nitto Randonneur bars. Each of these bikes will get about 1500+ miles this year. I like them both. I feel that I have just as many hand postions on the flat bar as on the road bars, though some would argue that point.

If the quill (or steerer tube) is equal height on each bike, and the stem is equal length and angle, you will still be stretched out further on the hoods than on the flat bar, because the road bars curve forward to the hoods. On your old bike measure the distance from the rear or front of your saddle to your flat bars, then compare it also to "the hoods" on your road bars. Measure the distance from floor to saddle and floor to bar on each bike. That may give you an answer to the relative position.

Remember also that tube angle and crank position play into the equation.

I'm afraid I have to disagree with some of the respondents, who seem to think a road bike should have a riding position like a hybrid. You don't have to be a yoga instructor to use drop bars, and the notion that you do is, as they say in France, merde de cheval.

If you don't have a beer gut the size of a basketball, and you don't have spinal deformities, ruptured disks, etc., you ought to be able to learn to manage drop bars set even with your saddle on a stem long enough that when your hands are on the hoods, the bar is directly between your eyes and the front axle. It won't be comfortable immediately. You'll mostly use the tops, at first. But stick with it. Work into riding the hoods until you can ride your regular course on the hoods without discomfort. Once you've been doing this for a couple of months, start using the drops some of the time when you have a headwind.

I've had my road bike for a little over a year, now. And I am so glad that I listened to the LBS guy who fitted my bike. I'm more comfortable riding the drops on my roadie than I am on my hybrid. Took some work to reach that point, but hell yes it was worth it.

That "20-year old fit" that some of the respondents in this thread sneer at isn't just about aerodynamics, it's about ergonomics, too. Try the following test. Sit down in a chair. Try to get up from the chair without bending forward at the waist. Now try it the way normal people do, i.e. bend forward as you get up. It's much easier when you bend forward. Bending forward at the waist enables your glutes to do some of the work, instead of just your legs. Equally important is that bending forward centers your weight over your feet, vastly improving your balance.

I know of no sport where the preferred "ready" position is standing (or sitting) straight up. Wrestlers, boxers, baseball and basketball players crouch with their weight centered over their feet. Why would anyone think cycling should be different? If you have to make an emergency evasive maneuver, would you rather be sitting bolt upright, or leaning forward, with your CG lowered and your weight more evenly balanced between front and rear wheels? Calling Captain Obvious!

How can such a "bent-over" position possibly be more comfortable? Because, as you develop the flexibility and fitness to assume a proper cycling position, more of your weight is carried by your feet, and less by your hands and arse. A nice fast cruise (75-80% of max heart rate) is easier on your butt than an easy recovery ride, because even on a poorly fit bike, the legs will bear more of your weight on the harder ride.

I'm 5'7" and a little over 200 lbs. I haven't had the sort of physique people associate with bicycle racers since I was in college. If I can manage reasonably fitted drop bars, any reasonably healthy person should be able to work their way into using them. Might take a while. It took me a few months. But it is well worth the effort.

If you take the bike back to your LBS and whine at them long enough, they'll screw up the fit for you. It won't ever feel right, because road bike saddles aren't meant to carry your entire weight comfortably. And you will never realize the performance you paid for. But hey, it's your bike.

Please explain the advantage of a straight bar over a drop bar at the same height. Somehow, I just don't get it??

A straight bar removes hand positions, and if the drop bar is the same height - well, I just can't figure it out. Also, I don't think lots of folks are switching to straight bars, but maybe we need a poll?


I agree. I've never understood this!

Not only can you put the top of the bars in the same place as the straight bars, but you can stretch down and arch your back, you can snuggle up against the brake hoods, you can put them lots of places. The nitto noodle is plenty wide, too, so you can really get your chest open and breathing.

If it's just a handlebar issue, though, why can't the OP put a straight bar on the Waterford?

BTW, the best thing I learned from this group about neck pain was to tilt your head in a different angle every time you look up.

I tested a road bike the other day to see what it feels like now that I am older. I had tension in the back of my neck for an hour or so afterward. It's a strange tension that feels like heat. With compressed vertebra and bone spurs in my neck, I just don't know if I can ride in the drops AT ALL without discomfort, so it seems like they'd be a waste for me. This is why I'm seriously thinking that my next bike will come with flat bars which I will swap for trekking bars.

But, maybe, just maybe, there is a road bike out there with a geometry perfectly suited for me that would allow me to ride in the drops for that 10% when they come in handy. But how many miles will I need to test ride it until I'll know for sure?

I would take some measurements from the bike you're comfortable on, and try and match that on the new bike, within reason, and see how different they are. Measure to the top of the bars on the new bike. Measure everything you can, seat to pedals, seat to bar tops, (reach and drop), etc. If you are reaching inches more on the new bike, that might hurt.
I even do this between the roadie and the mtb.

Please explain the advantage of a straight bar over a drop bar at the same height. Somehow, I just don't get it??

A straight bar removes hand positions, and if the drop bar is the same height - well, I just can't figure it out.

No advice from me to the OP, as I have no idea how one adjusts to using drop bars.

But to the Fox I would say that there is no way you can get any portion of a drop bar to my favorite hand position. Wide hand position, wrist bent at about 15-20 degrees, thick ergo grips, hands roughly even with the stem front to back, about 3" above the headset.

For example, consider a North Road bar, hard to get a drop bar into a similar configuration.

I use long, L-shaped bar ends to provide two alternate hand positions. Can ride for hours.

I not only find the drops highly uncomfortable, I find the hoods uncomfortable too, those things kill my thumbs.

Not that I'm arguing for "flat" or "riser" or whatever bars over drops. I know drops work great for many people and I understand the reasoning behind the design. But they are not the solution for all people. In fact, only about 10% of all bikes have drop bars. When I ride rail trails, I rarely see people riding bikes with drop bars.

In fact, only about 10% of all bikes have drop bars. When I ride rail trails, I rarely see people riding bikes with drop bars.

Funny, I watched the Tour de France and I don't think I saw a single flat bar bike. :p And I don't see a lot of people water skiing on the interstate.
I wonder what that percentage would be if you only counted bikes from bike shops. No Wally World and the like.

Bluetail, welcome aboard.

Waterford's a cool bike, I have their cheaper line Gunnar. Why don't you post a picture of your new ride, maybe we can see something about the position (as well as seeing your new ride)

I found that the "old school" rule of thumb is to set the tops of the bars even with the seat so the drops are maybe 4-5 inches lower. A lot of new bikes come with the tops 4-5 inches below the seat so that they're where the drops were on older bikes.

Also I found that small variances in stem length and angle make a big difference. You might want to try out other stems.

Personally I'm in the drops primarily when I'm cornering, descending, or sprinting, on the hoods the rest of the time. When I was younger I could ride for miles in the drops.

You can try the Ritchey adjustable stem for height on the bars. Going from flat bars with the standard brakes to the new braking arrangement using the brakes for drops is a significant change. Also, try and see if you are gripping the new bars/brakes with a tense hand position. Tension while riding can cause problems. Experiment with position. And remember your body can "feel" when things aren't good. If you liked the position on your old bike and still have it then look at all the measurements that can help determine the critical differences...and remember if you can't find your comfort zone you can go back to flat bars. There is nothing sacred about drops vs flat bars. Your new bike will still be a great ride.

Funny, I watched the Tour de France and I don't think I saw a single flat bar bike. :p And I don't see a lot of people water skiing on the interstate.
I wonder what that percentage would be if you only counted bikes from bike shops. No Wally World and the like.

It actually isn't a lot higher for bikes sold through bike shops. When I said less than 10% overall, I was being a bit generous, the number from all bike outlets is actually less than 5%. From bike shops it runs around 10%-12% on average. If a shop specializes in high end bikes then it could be much higher. But as the average bike sold through a bike shop sells for around $400-$450, that isn't a lot of high-end bikes.

Even for most bike shops, their bread & butter bike is the hybrid, next comes mountain bikes.

I think the current figure for the number of people in the USA who ride a bike at least 6 times a year is 43 million. Even out of this group, which excludes all of the people who own bikes but almost never ride them, the percentage riding drop bar road bikes is low. I'd guess maybe 3-4 million of these riders are on drop bars.

For example, I work at the University of Wisconsin in the bike friendly city of Madison. Thousands of students ride to campus on bikes. But when I walk past the bike racks only about 5% of them have drop bars.

Now if you limit this population to say those who ride a bike on 50 mile rides at least three times a year, then the pct on drop bars would go way up. Although I think that pct would still be fairly low if the criteria were 20 mile rides. A lot of people take 20 mile rides on trails with hybrids and mountain bikes.

Do not panic. Shorter rides are in order to aclimate your body to a new position. 1000's of miles on a flatbar then switching to a new position without some discomfort is rare. As an rider of multiple bikes it even takes a bit of time when swithching bikes to become totally comfortable due to small differences in riding position.

Amen Tom. Like the TdF riders are representative of the 50+ riding crowd. They aren't representative of anyone in the normal world. They are small, super strength to wt ratios, and young bodies. Nothing wrong with triples, flatbars, nor comfortable saddles for the rest of us. Riding should be a pleasure and not a trainwreck feeling. What ever gets you up the hill comfortably and has you wanting to do it again.

Say what you will....whatever gets people on the road and keeps them there. Personally, a 3 or 4 hour weekend ride on a flat bar would have me in pain-- mental and physical. I find a drop bar far more conducive to a feeling of grace, speed, and comfort. Most of Tom's gazillions of flat bar bike purchasers buy bikes but don't ride bikes as long or hard as many here do. Lots of those bikes sit in garages much of their life or hang from rafters. An English 3 speed or a flat bar hybrid would please me for cruising around town. But most of my riding is out past the city limit sign. Unless there is a specific injury or disability or physical "condition", 50 year old bodies can adapt to a lot more stress than a drop bar position if trained to do so-- and if there's a desire to do so. Again personally, I think it worth sticking with just to see if one's final preference is for dropped bars.

Now if you limit this population to say those who ride a bike on 50 mile rides at least three times a year, then the pct on drop bars would go way up.

Exactly. And the OP rode 45 miles testing a new setup. What most people on college campuses or rail trails choose is no more of a valid comparison than what elite racers do. The majority of riders I see on 50+ mile rides are on drop bar bikes. That percentage goes way up when you filter out those doing so for the first time.
Why are people who ride longer distances more likely to choose drop bars? Because for most people riding longer distances, drop bars are more comfortable.

Mirror mirror on the wall.
Flat bar Drop bar, stem too tall.
Should I raise my saddle or am I too low?
Helmet or not, I don't know.

Should my bike be white?
Should my jersey be bright?
Should my feet clip in?
Should my tires be thin?

Where to turn to?
Where to go?
Who do I listen to?
Does anyone know?

Is this bike good?
Is that one toast?
I know what to do.
Write a 50+ post.

Almost all of the advice here is good. Read it and try as much as possible. Getting a bike to fit well takes some time and is the result of solving one small problem at a time. Ride up on the top of the bar for a while (this is the position you are used to) and get the saddle height/bar height and stem reach right. Now you baseline is back to where you know. Remember that the hoods and drops are a lot further out then the flat bar was so the control group may have to me moved back toward you a little. Ride a little more and do not make hasty judgements about love/hate of the position. However once you have decided, do not let the opinions of others dictate what you like. As you have discovered there are a multitude of opinions (take a poll of opinions, there will be one more than the number of posters, this is a variation of the N+1 theory).

Please see the drop bar/flat bar poll at:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338544

As you have discovered there are a multitude of opinions (take a poll of opinions, there will be one more than the number of posters, this is a variation of the N+1 theory).

That is total nonsense. And I agree totally.

Hi,
1) the drops are for going fast. Most of use don't use them much.
2) Add a couple spacers under the stem
3) strengthen your core muscles, the back, stomach
4) warm up gently
5) stretch after

Raise Dat Stem!

by Bob Gordon

A flat back is one of the hallmarks of an experienced cyclist, particularly a racer, and over the years I have seen the prevailing attitudes towards rider positioning devolve to the point where if you don't cycle with your back parallel to the ground, you're cast off as a beginner.

But like many other concepts recreational riders adopt, the low back originated in the professional ranks after extensive research in aerodynamics proved this would help the fast go faster. Competitive athletes routinely sacrifice both their short and long term health for the express purpose of winning, but you may have a different agenda.

Lower back disc problems peak the ages of 30 and 50. There are many causes, but if your back pain is exacerbated by riding, it's a good bet the cause is bouncing around on your bike while your lower spine is extensively flexed (loss of lower back arch). A low, forward torso causes the inner portion of the disc (the nucleus purposes) to press back against the outer restraining fibers (the annulus fibroses). This pressure eventually causes the disc to bulge or herniate. The nearby nerves get squeezed, and the next thing you know, someone like me is telling you you have sciatica.

Cycling mitigates some of the problems of a habitually flexed lumbar spine because of the "bridge effect" that's created by resting some of your weight on your hands. But the lumbar region and its soft tissues are still at risk just by being continuously hyper flexed, and if you sit all day at your job, the danger is compounded.

On the flip side, cycling entirely upright does not solve the problem either. True, the inter-vertebral discs and spinal ligaments are in a more neutral position and absorb shock better, but the load is now transmitted axially, which is fatiguing and jarring. Also, in a bolt-upright position you can't use your gluteus or hamstrings to great advantage, which means your thighs (quadriceps) get overworked, you lose a lot of power, the unused hamstrings and gluteal muscles go flabby, and you catch all that wind. It's hard to be happy about all that, racer or no.

There is, however, a position that allows good performance while minimizing risk of lower back injury. I like a stem height and length that puts your back about 50 degrees from horizontal, while your arms and legs bend slightly at the elbows, as shown in figure 2 up there. To achieve this, you'll probably have to raise your bars, and assuming you want to keep the same bar style (as opposed to riding with stingray bars or something), that usually means getting another stem, one with a taller quill or a steep rise to it. If you hit the sweet spot, a photo of you from the side will reveal a nice pyramid composed of top tube, torso and arms.'

There are several kinds of "bike fits" out there that people use. A high end bike bike fit is liable to be a performance fit with the bars low. The french fit has you sitting up right. There are others I have seen that give you options in between. So the bottom line is that there are a series of possible positions for you and the bike - there is no one perfect fit which some guy in a bike shop can give you. Also - IMHO there is no one fit for a single person, it depends on how they feel, are you flexible and strong today or are you feeling a bit sluggish. Another myth, you can't go fast with flat bars, tell that to some of the riders in the club I ride with and they will leave you in the dust riding flat bars, yes - more wind resistance but a more open chest to keep you breathing.

So what am I trying to say here - I think you will eventually like the drops, as others have stated you may want them a little higher or even a little closer in. And as you get use to them you may find the bike shop "fit" is right. Experiment but mark where things are positioned now so you know where you started from. There are a lot of variables in the equation of a good fit and a lot of noise in the measurements. One of the biggest noise factors is how your body feels at the time you try it out. So make a change and live with it for a few rides, then make another. Pretty soon you will dial it in.

I rode a mtn.bike for years before buying a road bike. Took some getting used to the position on the road bike. One thing I did was to tilt the bar up, so the hoods were sitting higher (I usually ride "on the hoods"). Might give it a try-it's a quick and easily reversible adjustment.

But, maybe, just maybe, there is a road bike out there with a geometry perfectly suited for me that would allow me to ride in the drops for that 10% when they come in handy. But how many miles will I need to test ride it until I'll know for sure?

Last year when I was testing bikes my LBS let me have them for a few days so I could get a good feel for the bike. I was able to put around 60 miles on each and this really helped me to make my choice between the two bikes. I think you need at least a couple rides in the 20 mile range to see how the bike feels.

Please explain the advantage of a straight bar over a drop bar at the same height. Somehow, I just don't get it??

A straight bar removes hand positions, and if the drop bar is the same height - well, I just can't figure it out. Also, I don't think lots of folks are switching to straight bars, but maybe we need a poll?


+1 on that comment. And my Sequoia even has those auxiliary brake levers near the stem so I have quick brake access when I'm riding on the tops. The only disadvantage is having to reach for the hoods in order to shift, but that's not such a big deal. And I really like having all of the various hand-position options.

+1 on that comment. And my Sequoia even has those auxiliary brake levers near the stem so I have quick brake access when I'm riding on the tops. The only disadvantage is having to reach for the hoods in order to shift, but that's not such a big deal. And I really like having all of the various hand-position options.

I have the auxiliary brakes on my older road bike but try never to use them. The new road bike doesn't have them and I had a couple close calls shortly after purchasing it. I reached for the brakes on the top and there wasn't any:eek:

It actually isn't a lot higher for bikes sold through bike shops. When I said less than 10% overall, I was being a bit generous, the number from all bike outlets is actually less than 5%. From bike shops it runs around 10%-12% on average. If a shop specializes in high end bikes then it could be much higher. But as the average bike sold through a bike shop sells for around $400-$450, that isn't a lot of high-end bikes.

Even for most bike shops, their bread & butter bike is the hybrid, next comes mountain bikes.

I think the current figure for the number of people in the USA who ride a bike at least 6 times a year is 43 million. Even out of this group, which excludes all of the people who own bikes but almost never ride them, the percentage riding drop bar road bikes is low. I'd guess maybe 3-4 million of these riders are on drop bars.

For example, I work at the University of Wisconsin in the bike friendly city of Madison. Thousands of students ride to campus on bikes. But when I walk past the bike racks only about 5% of them have drop bars.

Now if you limit this population to say those who ride a bike on 50 mile rides at least three times a year, then the pct on drop bars would go way up. Although I think that pct would still be fairly low if the criteria were 20 mile rides. A lot of people take 20 mile rides on trails with hybrids and mountain bikes.If you limit your sample to people who have ridden 50 miles more than once in their lives, the percentage would go way up. :D Take a look at the start of nearly any charity ride, and you'll see probably 90% drop bar roadies, maybe 3% bents, and the rest a motley mix of hybrids, MTBs, and the odd fixie.

no more drops for me...they're like a medieval intrument of torture

If you look at riders riding on roads you are probably going to see a lot of "roadish" bikes. If you go to trail heads and look around you may find a lot of "MTBish" bikes, and as pointed out above if you go to interstates you will not see a lot of waterskiers. As I look back at most of the posts about this subject (many many other versions of the same thread) I see a consistant story. Those folks who ride roads by in large favor dropbars as the "only" practical alternative. Hard core MTB'ers on the other hand laugh at the concept of drop bars.

Changing Drop bar bikes to flats and flats to drops is one of the speciality niches that I do for folks on occasion and it appears to me that some riders just don't like certain setups. As a proponent of 50+ common sense I feel that rider comfort (mental as well as physical) is important. The biggest problem is that it is not cheap or easy to change back and forth between the two styles for comparison. It is not always easy to go to the LBS and find nearly equivalent bikes with different control groups to try. A few years ago, TREK sold the 1000 with both flat and drop bar control groups with virtually identical equipment fits. (other than those necessary to accomodate the change). At this time I don't know of any other identical bike to use for comparison.

I notice that there are many more flatbar road bikes in Europe where they are used as everyday commuters then there are here. Anyone here have any experience with that?

I like to suggest that the riding position does not define flat bars to drop bar preference.
Like many above post, I use the hoods most of the time and Aerobars against the wind.
I have set up my riding position at about 45 degrees for hoods, aerobars and flat bars (with aerobars).
It is possible to lay almost flat with my back if I slide back on the saddle using aerobars against strong wind.
The advantage of flat bars with T-ends and aerobars is on very bumpy road or trail. Gripping wide on the t-ends gives a lot of leverage which I do not have with drop bars.
OTOH, drop bars tuck you better in aerodynamically. So if I do something like a TT or PB I use drops. If I go on a bumpy road or trail I prefer straights. I have both. I find both comfortable for century rides provided I have aerobars.

I like to suggest that the riding position does not define flat bars to drop bar preference.
Like many above post, I use the hoods most of the time and Aerobars against the wind.
I have set up my riding position at about 45 degrees for hoods, aerobars and flat bars (with aerobars).
It is possible to lay almost flat with my back if I slide back on the saddle using aerobars against strong wind.
The advantage of flat bars with T-ends and aerobars is on very bumpy road or trail. Gripping wide on the t-ends gives a lot of leverage which I do not have with drop bars.
OTOH, drop bars tuck you better in aerodynamically. So if I do something like a TT or PB I use drops. If I go on a bumpy road or trail I prefer straights. I have both. I find both comfortable for century rides provided I have aerobars.Which is exactly the point. Unmodified flat bars suck for long rides. Adding the aerobars gives you a forward crouch position that is much more aero and a good bit more ergo.

So far I'm pretty well satisfied with my motley Coda Elite and it's not quite flat bar. And I've definitely ridden it more than 50 miles more than once since getting it in April. That's not to say someday I might not try a "real" road bike. Maybe in a year or so. I was well served by riding the original bike (Navigator) for a solid year before getting another bike, and I'm for sure going to ride the Coda for at least that long before looking into yet another one. If I do make the jump to a road bike, it will be a good one, most likely one made to order. But who knows what the future holds?

yeah it is supposed to suck....the cure is ride a LOT in drops....stay in them as much as you can stand, for a month of rides. eventually you get to the point that, when you go to the drops is feels normal

yeah it is supposed to suck....the cure is ride a LOT in drops....stay in them as much as you can stand, for a month of rides. eventually you get to the point that, when you go to the drops is feels normal

:eek::eek::eek:

Bluetail-Back to your question!!!! My experience has been that it does take a little time for the muscles in the neck and possibly back to adjust to a road bike. If I have not done a longer ride for a while, I notice that my neck and related shoulder muscles are a little sore the next day. However, after working up to the distances I want to do with shorter rides, most of that goes away. It really doesn't matter if they are flat bars or hoods-probably what has changed has been the bars are now a little lower than the saddle and they are probably also a little further away. I've noticed it does feel a little stretched out at first but it is also easy to get acclimated to. As long as the bike is fitted within reason you should be able to adjust to it over time. You should be able to sit on your sit bones with your hands on the bars, you should also have some bend in your elbows so you're arms are not straight and rigid. If you're arms are straight the shock and bumps from the road will go directly to your shoulders and back-not good.

If it were me, I would do some slightly lesser shorter rides to get more acclimated to the new position, and then tweak the positions later depending on how things feel. It really does take a little time to work these things out.

Welcome here as well. Let us know how it goes.

Back t the OP original question, YES it OK and normal to fell some pain and stiffness in the neck, shoulder and back after your first ride of 45 miles or so. I feel that way every spring when I get back on the road. I know its gonna happen, and I accept it. If the pain does not go away, then you have a problem, but give it a few rides for your body to get used to the increased workload and different stresses of a new riding position.

.

I notice that there are many more flatbar road bikes in Europe where they are used as everyday commuters then there are here. Anyone here have any experience with that?

Yep, direct and indirect; as you say, flatbar bikes (of all kinds, from full-on road race geometry to hybrid to mtb-framed to trekking etc.) are v. common on the roads not only in Europe but everywhere, and not only for commuting; the difference is that in North America there does seem a (tacit) assumption, absent in e.g. Europe, that 'real' cyclists (whoever they are??) ride drop-bar road bikes when on the road. I've never quite 'got' this assumption, and never will: to my mind, someone uncomfortably riding a full-on dropbar roadie, when he/she (age, body type, conditioning, primary riding conditions) might in fact be better off, and dare I say it actually a more efficient cyclist, on another type of bike, just doesn't make any sense -- but whatever. (Self)image, personal tastes, etc. of course have their effect in bike choice, just as with everything.