Hello, this is my first post on the bike forums. I started cycling 4 weeks ago as a fun way of loosing weight and becoming healthier. I am HOOKED!
I am 26yrs old 5'10" and weighed 237 lbs when I started (now 226). My goal is 190 or lower. Currently I am riding a 1997 Schwinn Frontier 18 spd MTB that I've been told is too small for me (I've had it since new and I was a lot smaller back then!). I'll be honest, it sucks riding it and I'm not sure if I feel safe taking into high traffic areas (I want to ride to my downtown office eventually). Right now I ride about 10-14 miles per day through local neighborhoods on decent quality pavement and little traffic, though I plan in increasing the distance as speed and endurance increases.
I'm in the market for a new bike and I've had my eye on a few namely the following:
2008 Marin Highway One Carbon (http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_2007/html/bikes/bike_specs/specs_hwy_one.html) - $2,500
2008 Specialized Sirrus Pro (http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22263) - $1,300
Here's what I want out of a bike:
• Fast ride yet able to handle rough paved roads and/or sidewalks required for commuting.
• Flat bar preferably, but am considering a standard curl down with upright angled grips (hence the Verona "natural fit" choice).
• Lightweight but sturdy.
• 30 speeds.
• Shimano 105 or similar brand/quality minimum for derailers.
Any opinions on the bikes I have picked out?
Any other suggested bikes that offer what I'm looking for?
What size tire do you suggest for what I want to do? (is 28c too small?)
What shoes/pedals do you suggest?
Thank you and it's a pleasure to be posting in this forum!
Black Shuck
09-02-07, 02:31 PM
28c tires should be wide enough for your use, but the low spoke count on the bikes you're looking at is a bit iffy if you're looking for a dependable bike for commuting. My current wheelsets have 32 and 36 spoke(fixed gear citybike and touring rig). I'd go with at least 32 spokes front and rear to be on the safe side, and I'm not too convinced of the reliability of carbon fiber frames for everyday clydesdale commuting use. That's just me though.
I'm just about your weight and have the same goal weight and have been riding about 100 miles per week this year. I'm looking at having a steel roadbike built for me wich i hope to ride for years, if not decades to come.
synergy
09-02-07, 02:44 PM
Ah, spoke count is something I have completely overlooked. Thank you for the 32 spoke minimum advice.
ddmann
09-02-07, 03:42 PM
Let me second the spoke count recommendation. And I will add that I purchased a Bianchi Volpe recently. Like you I was originally looking for a flat bar bike. I only changed my mind about the flat bar approach after I began test riding "Cyclocross" bikes. After searching high and low for nearly two months I finally settled on the Volpe. Yes it's ugly but it has good componetry and although my cc took a direct hit I will be able to pay it off rather quickly.
What I like about the cylcocross bikes most is that they are designed to go both off road and pavement. Once I got use to drops I began venturing out on the trails and found it completely compatible with my riding style. I weigh a bit more than you and have had zero problems with the wheels so far. At this point I have put about 150 miles or so in the woods and close to 700 around town.
synergy
09-02-07, 05:28 PM
Cyclocross is not a type of bike I have considered, though it seems nearly perfect for what I'm wanting. It would be nice to be able to go out on the trails on the weekend and the next day commute to work, but also be able to take it on a 50 mile charity ride.
I viewed the Velope on Bianchi's webiste... you are right that thing is ugly, though I love the name Bianchi gave the color: "gang green". How much money did your Velope set you back?
Bill Kapaun
09-02-07, 10:51 PM
Just my $.02 here-
30 speeds starts getting noticeably more finicky and expensive than 27.
It's not so much how many speeds you have, but how many useful speeds you have.
Go to this link and plug in the various combinations. You'll probably see a lot of duplication.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html
v1k1ng1001
09-02-07, 11:02 PM
Yeah, I don't think you need the triple honestly. If you keep riding you'll be fine riding a double on a cyclocross bike.
ddmann
09-03-07, 01:10 AM
Hello Synergy. I paid nearly a grand for my Volpe. I changed a couple of compnents on it which drove the price up a tad. I bought a nicer seat, added crossbar brakes, (take a look at the Specialized Tricross and you will see what they are), installed a wider set of handlebars (44's), bought a floor pump, mini pump, tire levers, extra tube, patch kit and a smallish under the seat pack to carry it all with me. Oh yeah and a set of mountain bike std shoes also.
It took me a few days to get used to the color, learn how to ride drops, and master the whole brifter / clipless shoe thing, but the darn bike can do it all. A few weekends ago I was singletracking with it and that third chaniring / granny came in damn handy! It's an all steel bike so it is not light, with my seat pack and tools mine weighs about 26 pounds.
Three weeks ago I upgraded the crankset to a Shimano 105 triple 30, 39, 50, only because I was given the crankset I did not really need it. However with that taller crankset the granny is not quite as small and the top end is really fast.
WIth the difference in price between the Volpe and the bikes you are looking at you could easily afford to buy a second set of wheels just for the street if you are so inclined, I am considering it myself, but I will wait until spring and spend the winter researching for the best performance / durability / price ratio.
BigBlueToe
09-03-07, 09:18 AM
I recommend a touring bike. They're built strong, have wide range gearing, and are very versatile. Drop handlebars are more comfortable than they look. You don't need to be bent way over. It's possible to get the top of the bars level with or even higher than your saddle. You have more possible hand positions on drop bars. Most touring bikes come with 36 spoke rear wheels, which is good for us Clydes. They weigh a bit more than a good road racing bike, but when you weigh over 200 lbs., a couple more pounds of bike weight is almost negligible.
synergy
09-03-07, 09:33 PM
Ok per suggestions from the commuter's forum and from here, it looks like a Cyclocross bike is what I need. A few have suggested touring bikes, however, I don't need to carry stuff when I commute. I have no need for racks or other carrying mediums. Just a fast and rugged on-road bike that can be taken off road on trail rides.
I have the following models picked out and plan to test ride from local BSD.
Redline Conquest Pro (http://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/conquest-pro.html)
I realize that some of these don't have the 32 spoke minimum required for us clydes, that would be the first upgrade I make. Would probably use the stock wheels with street slicks for longer rides I might do in the future.
v1k1ng1001
09-03-07, 11:03 PM
Don't forget Soma Fabrications. They have a frame called the double cross which is specifically designed to be a cross commuter. It's a lot like the cross check actually.
http://www.somafab.com/dcross_blk06.jpg
Another bike to consider is the Lemond Poprad which has a nice True Temper OX steel frame that outclasses both the Soma and the Surly. It's available as a frame set or built up as shown here:
http://www.lemondbikes.com/images/bikes/large/poprad_disc.jpg
My friend had the option of building up a Soma and a Redline Conquest. I pulled for the Soma, but he ended up buying the Conquest and loves it. I think it rides like a tank, i.e. like any other unresponsive cheap aluminum frame, but I don't say anything. I think this one is at the bottom of the barrel in your list of options.
I really like the cross check. Lots of guys here have them and rave about them. You can't beat no-nonsense, affordable steel frame for the kind of riding you're doing. If you value durability, it is nice to have that steel fork instead of a carbon fiber fork. I would buy the frame and then build it up with better parts than the build you linked to. If you're planning to commute as much or more than you recreate, I'd go with this bike.
The triple on the Specialized is disappointing in my opinion. With the carbon fiber seat stays compromising the overall durability of the frame, this bike is a little more performance oriented and less commuter friendly. Whenever I lock up my steel / carbon fiber road bike, I get paranoid that some idiot will compromise the frame. That said, I really like Specialized as a company and the columbus tubing is a nice feature.
I feel much the same about the Jamis and its carbon fiber seat stays. I prefer the build on the Jamis which has a double, but I think the Specialized frame is probably nicer. You'd have to ride them of course. Maybe the Jamis fits you better?
The Kona probably doesn't ride as well as the Specialized or the Jamis, but its durability is not compromised by the carbon which is a big plus if you're commuting daily. If I were in your shoes and wanted to go aluminum, I'd choose the Kona.
But at the end of the day, I don't think very much of aluminum frames. Even the nicer ones don't ride that well so I'd probably build the Surly, Soma or Lemond if I were in your position.
synergy
09-04-07, 09:55 AM
It seems like everywhere I read, people are saying steel bikes are the way to go for comfort and durability. I'm amazed that most bike companies are out of touch with this... they sacrifice comfort and durability for weight and profit. I've also read that for heavy guys like us, the carbon seat posts are crap for durability... basically everything you are saying.
I really like the look of that LeMond Poprad Disk. I also like the pre-built specs (minus the carbon post) as well as the price. Fortunately I have a LeMond dealer here in town so I will add this one to my "to-ride" list.
Someone mentioned that its not about how many gears you have, but rather how many USEFUL gears you have. Will someone please define "useful" gears? What is a good chainring / cassette teeth count for men of our size?
webist
09-04-07, 03:36 PM
Someone mentioned that its not about how many gears you have, but rather how many USEFUL gears you have. Will someone please define "useful" gears? What is a good chainring / cassette teeth count for men of our size?
What is being discussed here is actually "cross chaining." On any gear set up, you want to avoid using the extreme outside gear in the front with the extreme inside gear in the rear and vice versa. This causes excessive wear on the chain, cassette and chain rings. it can also cause slipping under heavy load and might even be a bit noisy as the deraileurs rub. It not really an issue of 27 vs 30 gears rather one of avoiding wear and tear.
ddmann
09-04-07, 08:44 PM
Synergy
When I was shopping for my bike I tested several of the bikes on your list. In fact after all the testing the Tricross was my first choice, I just was not too keen on the price. The guy at the bike shop suggested I try the Volpe after I had ridden the Tricross and Jake, (two or three times each over about three weeks of searching). It turned out to be the one I liked the best. If you search tricross in the cyclocross forum you will see that some folks have had issues wth the carbon fork. I don't think it happens alot but it does happen. I don't think I have ever seen anything negative about the Jake. For me the Jake was just a little too agressive body position wise. The tricross was much more relaxed in my opinion. The Volpe was a nice mixture of the two. And by all means stick with all steel, you will never regret it.
v1k1ng1001
09-04-07, 09:10 PM
Synergy
When I was shopping for my bike I tested several of the bikes on your list. In fact after all the testing the Tricross was my first choice, I just was not too keen on the price. The guy at the bike shop suggested I try the Volpe after I had ridden the Tricross and Jake, (two or three times each over about three weeks of searching). It turned out to be the one I liked the best. If you search tricross in the cyclocross forum you will see that some folks have had issues wth the carbon fork. I don't think it happens alot but it does happen. I don't think I have ever seen anything negative about the Jake. For me the Jake was just a little too agressive body position wise. The tricross was much more relaxed in my opinion. The Volpe was a nice mixture of the two. And by all means stick with all steel, you will never regret it.
As far as that goes the Lemond is likely a more aggressive geometry.
c_m_shooter
09-05-07, 12:55 PM
If you liked the Bianchi Volpe, but not the color, then check out the Jamis Aurora. It's very similar, but a little easier on the eyes.
ddmann
09-05-07, 01:44 PM
interesting you should point that out shooter; I found the Aurora on the net but no one in town had any left in my size. The two dealers that carried them said the 2008's would arrive in early October and I was just too damn impatient!
InTheRain
09-05-07, 03:09 PM
My vote:
If you go with a crossbike... 1) specialized tricross. 2) surly crosscheck
If you go with a touring frame... 1) Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30. 2) Jamis Aurora / Surly LHT
synergy
09-05-07, 07:36 PM
I've decided to go with a crossbike, since I use the bike for fitness with plans to commute and the occasional trail rides. I'm going to ride both the Tricross as well as the Redline Conquest Pro. If I can get my hands on a pre-built Shurly, I will test that one as well. I have a list of 8 bikes now I will be test riding soon. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it goes in this thread.
bigbossman
09-05-07, 07:58 PM
I'm going to go against the grain here....
You will be fine with the lower spoke count wheels, especially the Sirrus at 24/28.
At 226lbs (and shrinking), you aren't that heavy. Buy the bike you like, and if you find later on that you don't like the wheels you can upgrade.
I'm 235lbs, and have about 6,000 miles on a set of 24/28's with NO truing or other issues. They are stiff and rock-solid, and I do about 8-9 centuries a year on them.
v1k1ng1001
09-05-07, 09:16 PM
I'm going to go against the grain here....
You will be fine with the lower spoke count wheels, especially the Sirrus at 24/28.
At 226lbs (and shrinking), you aren't that heavy. Buy the bike you like, and if you find later on that you don't like the wheels you can upgrade.
I'm 235lbs, and have about 6,000 miles on a set of 24/28's with NO truing or other issues. They are stiff and rock-solid, and I do about 8-9 centuries a year on them.
Yeah, I'm 215 and I'm riding Bontrager Races that are 20/24. I don't like these wheels, they're definitely not my first choice, but they're holding up alright at 3,000 miles.
I still think your best bet might be to buy a frame and build it up with the stuff you want.
bigbossman
09-05-07, 09:26 PM
I still think your best bet might be to buy a frame and build it up with the stuff you want.
I'm with you. That's what I would do.... and in fact, did. Twice. It presupposes you have the knowledge, skill, and tools to do it, as well as the time. Probably won't save money, either - but you'll get EXACTLY what you want - assuming you know what that is.
Someone mentioned that its not about how many gears you have, but rather how many USEFUL gears you have. Will someone please define "useful" gears? What is a good chainring / cassette teeth count for men of our size?
It depends on the type of riding you will be doing.
If all you do is flat land touring, a 2x10 or 2x9 will give you all the gears you need.
You can pick a cassette with a lot of "close" increments on the "high speed" gears to dial in the best gear ration for fatigue and/or wind combinations. (a 3 MPH wind can make a pretty big difference, depending on if it's a head wind or tail wind) Maybe something like a 12-23 cassette.
If you are going to be mostly mountainous terrain, you'll want a lot of low gears for uphill, and a couple high gears for down hill. Maybe something like an 11-34 cassette.
There are always some trade offs. See the link for various combos-
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html#9