Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - A bike-power light that a RUNNER can use?

Ok, I know it's a weird question. I'm a runner (occasional mountain biker) that runs a lot in the dark, especially in the winter, and I've always had problems seeing where I'm going. I'm good with the cars-see-me thing; got lots of blinkies and reflectors for a nice 360 degree warning, but the Tikka XP headlamp that I'm using (1 watt, runs on AAA batteries) simply just doesn't do a good enough job when running fast.

I asked this question last year, but technology wasn't quite up to snuff without giving me something big, heavy, and most importantly, at risk of overheating or melting my backpack. I've seen new bike lamps out there that look incredibly small, and may be mountable on a backpack loop or possibly belt loop.

Any suggestions? I run at about 8-10 miles per hour, so I don't need a ton of range, but definitely more than AAAs can power. I carry a backpack, but ideally, it would be small enough that I could clip the battery pack onto my body. Obviously, don't want it to overheat.

Might be impossible, but just wondering if you folks have tried any nice stuff. Money is NOT an issue here (short of a fully custom-set - I want off the shelf.)

Look at some specs of the new high power led headlamps. You'll want one with a wide beam spread.

http://en.petzl.com/petzl/LampesProduits?Produit=554#

How about a MJOLNIR suit with helmet lights? :D

If you want a crazy amount of light check out a Lupine head lamp the WilmaX 830 lumens!

http://gretnabikes.com/item.asp?PID=75&cID=1&scID=2

If you want something less powerful and made for running check out the Toro from Cateye.

http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/375

The Myobelt Tikka is a good idea, but in reality, it's not so great for running. Reason is, its high-powered beam is too focused. More like a spotlight. If you drop the diffuser, it gets too washed out, and you lose most of the power in the process. In my experience, the 1 watt TikkaXP is the best of the excellent Petzl headlamps for the run, however, it's still underpowered. (2-3 watts would be great.)

Hence bikelamps. Any better suggestions?

This is a really nice light, top-the-line using 4 Cree LEDs. Almost over-kill. 500 Lumens, $350.
http://www.foxfury.com/products/pro_series/tactical/tactical_3.html

This one is very adequate, its cheaper and uses some older, less efficient LEDs. 144 lumens, $219 (kind of overpriced for having obsolete LEDs, IMO. http://www.foxfury.com/products/pro_series/outdoor/outdoor.htm


Zebralight
This one isn't available yet, but it would definitely be my first choice. Runs on, 1 AA cell, 80 lumens for 2.5 hours, uses a Cree, weighs 75 grams. Costs $40. Freakin' cool light.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=169180


My personal choice, if money were no option, and I couldn't wait for a zebralight, would be a Fenix P2D rebel 100, and stuck it in a Nite Ize headlamp strap. $60 + $5.
Adjustable output (175 lumens for 1 hour, 100 lumens for 2 hours, etc.) and together it would be <100 grams.

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2956&HS=1
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=669

You bikers really know your gear ... I'm impressed with the stuff you people dig up out of nowhere - great stuff!

petzl myo xp.
been running, climbing & backpacking with it for two years. long beam, very powerful, battery meter, several power settings AA batteries. You could easilly use it for cycling.

I run in the woods a lot with my Dinotte Ultra 3 (recently upgraded to 200L status). Awesome light for both purposes. I have the long cord and keep the 4 AA's in a pouch on my belt. For longer excursions, I can carry an extra set of batteries and change to the other set - quick & easy to do in total darkness.

When I'm riding, the light is still on the hat as shown and the helmet fits over the top.

that is an awesome setup cmorse!

I run in the woods a lot with my Dinotte Ultra 3 (recently upgraded to 200L status). Awesome light for both purposes. I have the long cord and keep the 4 AA's in a pouch on my belt. For longer excursions, I can carry an extra set of batteries and change to the other set - quick & easy to do in total darkness.

When I'm riding, the light is still on the hat as shown and the helmet fits over the top.

How stable is the Dinotte at the end of the cap? I would think it would bounce up and down a bit when you're running.

I run at about 8-10 miles per hour

Are you running 8-10 minute/miles or 8-10 mph? If the latter, that's a 6-7:30 pace which awfully fast for your regular runs. :eek:

What's your 5K PR?

I really want 2 P3Ds after seeing the new Rebel 100 models. 400 lumens on the bars would be nice!

Doesn't bounce at all - and I use it orienteering so I'm running over very variable terrain with lots of direction changes. The Dinotte light engine is really light. You do need a hat with a fairly stiff brim - not a crushable type hat. I just cut a couple slots in the brim and fit a short length of shoelace size cord through with a cordlock to cinch it down.

Now that DiNotte is EXACTLY what I'm looking for!

If you could please -

Dinotte model
Means of securing to hat

Thanks!

Just another question - I noted that on the DiNotte manual, it says that if the status light blinks blue/red, it needs more air intake for cooling of the lighting housing.

Do you ever run across that when doing your runs? (heating problems, that is)

I do actually run at 8-10 miles per hour (6-7:30 pace). I run a 5k in low 19 minutes and a 10k in sub-40. It's on the fast side compared to the majority of casual runners, but nowhere near fast enough to be competitive enough to win any awards.

I haven't run across any overheating issues, but to be honest, for running its often on its lower power setting, I usually only kick it up to high power when I'm searching for something particular in the woods - when just following trails, the lower power is generally quite sufficient. I would say as long as you are moving along at any sort of reasonable running pace that the airflow would be sufficient. If you were to use it mounted like I do and just standing around or walking, then the airflow might not be enough.

Most of my running has been with the older Ultra 3 model. They've just finished an upgrade program for existing users where they upgraded the lights to the newer 200L light engine product. I've done a number of bike rides with the upgraded model, but no real long runs yet. I'm doing some night orienteering races in NH this weekend where the newer light will get the ultimate test. If you want I can post an update next week.

Dinotte has updated their website to reflect the new models so the equivalent new model number would be 200L-AA-L-B - thats what mine was upgraded to. http://www.dinottelighting.com/Products.htm

Thanks for the info Cmorse. That's a fantastic idea you've got going there. I'm going to probably make that same exact setup with the Dinotte mounted on a baseball cap. I love the concept of having "surplus" light - right now, I'm always with my wimpy headlamp on MAAAXXXX, and it's still not enough.

Sorry to bug you again, but last question - I sweat a lot when I'm running at a good clip, and it's pretty normal for me to completely saturate the baseball cap. Do you think the DiNotte would be ok sitting on a totally soaked baseball cap brim?

I sweat a lot when running too. Even when racing I have to carry a bandana in one hand to mop the forehead. Shouldn't pose a problem though, the light is watertight and designed to operate in the rain, so a soaked ball cap shouldn't cause it any harm. BTW - the bill of my cap is made of a light plastic covered by the hat fabric - I know some cheaper caps are merely cardboard in there - but I'm guessing they would disintegrate in the rain (or a bad sweat episode) with or without the light mounted there. But the cutouts for the strap might tear more readily if they're not plastic based.

CMorse - you should definitely do a thread on this whole thing. I'm going to buy the Dinotte real soon. I still haven't decided on the best way to punch holes in the brim. Once I figure that out, I'm all in.

I cut the fabric with a razorknife, then used a dremel to cut the slot in the brim.