Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - How About These Wheels?

So I'm new to the whole singlespeed and I'm trying to semi-build one. I came across this wheelset (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=330161984364&Category=58097&_trksid=p3907.m29) on eBay and was wondering if they work. I know I'd have to use a threaded freewheel, but what about the space where the cassette used to be? Thanks.

Bal

Those wheels could be respaced and redished (look these up on sheldonbrown.com), but if you read the description you'll notice they're for tubular tires. If you're a novice on spacing/dishing issues, I'm guessing you probably don't want to start dealing with tubies.

That ebay auction - don't even bother.

If you're going to spend money do it right, don't buy tubular wheelsets and don't buy wheels that aren't meant for cog + lockring.

Awesome. Thanks for your speedy advice. So now where do I go to get a relatively inexpensive single-speed wheelset? I'm a college student so my fear is that someone will steal the bike, so I'm afraid of putting too much money into it. Again, thanks.

Bal

bring the bike to class with you.

Wheel & Sprocket has some good deals on wheelsets, in several different flavors:
http://wheelandsprocket.com/page.cfm?pageId=524

I've heard that the IRO wheels are decent, though I've never used them myself...
http://www.irofixedgear.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=45

I'd say that you're gonna have a tough time finding anything decent for under $150...though someone will probably dispute that. Good luck.

bicyclewheels.com ain't bad, either.

bicyclewheels.com ain't bad, either.

Holy crap, those guys are cheap!

Yeah, I'm about as novice as one can get on the whole singlespeed and fixed gear type of riding. So, for my situation, would it be best to go with a wheelset with a splined hub and then use spacers and a freewheel to create my bike, or should I go for a singlespeed-specific wheelset? I've found these (http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Vuelta-700c-Aero-Rims-aluminum-Single-Speed_W0QQitemZ110167048176QQihZ001QQcategoryZ36144QQcmdZViewItem) on eBay, but I'm skeptical. And I've looked at PricePoint for the wheels and came up on a nice FSA set for about $150. Thanks.

Bal

Great site. Thanks a bunch. Now if someone could just help me decide on what set. Thanks again.

Bal

Yeah, I'm about as novice as one can get on the whole singlespeed and fixed gear type of riding. So, for my situation, would it be best to go with a wheelset with a splined hub and then use spacers and a freewheel to create my bike, or should I go for a singlespeed-specific wheelset? I've found these (http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Vuelta-700c-Aero-Rims-aluminum-Single-Speed_W0QQitemZ110167048176QQihZ001QQcategoryZ36144QQcmdZViewItem) on eBay, but I'm skeptical. And I've looked at PricePoint for the wheels and came up on a nice FSA set for about $150. Thanks.

Bal

Well...it depends on what kind of ride you want. If you want to ride fixed, then you're going to need a track-cog specific hub (which has two-step threading, to accommodate both a threaded cog and a reverse-threaded lockring). If you just want SS, then a converted road wheel will work. If yer gonna buy new wheels, I'd suggest that you get the track-specific wheelset. Most stock fixed wheels use a "flip-flop" hub, which has threads for a fixed cog on one side, and threads for a SS freewheel on the other. With a setup like this, you can ride both fixed or free...much more versatile for the money.

As for the eBay wheels, I don't know the brand...but I don't have extensive experience with wheel brands. Somebody else might know.

http://shop.greatdealsonbikes.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GDOB&Product_Code=TR11&Category_Code=TR

boom. Get these, they are cheap an pretty much bomb proof. end of story

I converted on old shwinn to a fixed gear bike two months ago have put about 2000 miles on it in the last two months. I bought two low end wheels from my LBS for $40 eacj and have never looked back. I also don't have a track hub. I used a spare bottom bracket lockring with some thread lock and haven't had my wheel come off yet. When I changed my back cog from 16 to 18 two weeks ago I had to fight with the sumbit... (my daughter's watching me type) to get it off. Good luck - you really don't have to spend a lot of money.

(The new pedals and road shoes I bought today, now that set me back...)

http://shop.greatdealsonbikes.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GDOB&Product_Code=TR11&Category_Code=TR

boom. Get these, they are cheap an pretty much bomb proof. end of story

+1
I'm using these now on my fixed gear, they're great if a little heavy.

http://shop.greatdealsonbikes.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GDOB&Product_Code=TR11&Category_Code=TR

boom. Get these, they are cheap an pretty much bomb proof. end of story

i wish they had them in black

Well I really like these (http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15458-365_FSAR86-3-Parts-75-Wheelsets/FSA-RD-80-Road-Wheelset---Shimano-Compatible.htm) wheels from PricePoint, but they're not really intended for singlespeed. Will there be a difference in performance in respect to wheels if I use singlespeed-specific as opposed to wheels that are intended for cassettes? I understand I can use spacers to align the chain, but would I just be better off with a wheel designed for singlespeed? Thanks.

Bal

I converted on old shwinn to a fixed gear bike two months ago have put about 2000 miles on it in the last two months. I bought two low end wheels from my LBS for $40 eacj and have never looked back. I also don't have a track hub. I used a spare bottom bracket lockring with some thread lock and haven't had my wheel come off yet. When I changed my back cog from 16 to 18 two weeks ago I had to fight with the sumbit... (my daughter's watching me type) to get it off. Good luck - you really don't have to spend a lot of money.


Yeah, you might start a real sh*tstorm promoting that a new rider go with a suicide hub. A few guys use 'em, but I think that pointing a total neophyte that direction is irresponsible. If he doesn't know his way around fixed/SS wheels enough to pick out a wheelset, then he's got no business cobbing together something like that.

OP, buy a single-specific wheelset. $80 isn't much to spend for safety.

Well I really like these (http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15458-365_FSAR86-3-Parts-75-Wheelsets/FSA-RD-80-Road-Wheelset---Shimano-Compatible.htm) wheels from PricePoint, but they're not really intended for singlespeed. Will there be a difference in performance in respect to wheels if I use singlespeed-specific as opposed to wheels that are intended for cassettes? I understand I can use spacers to align the chain, but would I just be better off with a wheel designed for singlespeed? Thanks.

Bal

Like I said earlier...if you want SS only, you can convert a cassette wheel. If you want to ride fixed, you'll need a track hub.

http://shop.greatdealsonbikes.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GDOB&Product_Code=TR05&Category_Code=TR

Weinmann LP-18 rims are lighter (by almost 0.5 a pound), cheaper and low-profile, for those who like that. But, at $110 for a supposedly handbuilt wheelset, do they suck? And it doesn't look like there's even space for them to be machined for brakes, but is **** also the case with the DP-18's?

I just got a set of the Weimann LP -18's / Formula Hubs, from Bicyclewheels.com

Haven't put any real miles on them, but they seem pretty nice. Flip-flop (fixed/free), true out of the box, hubs roll smooth, the rims aren't machined but they stop pretty good.

IMO they were worth the ~$120 spent.

Thanks. Then it looks like I've found a wheelset. Even w/shipping (~50) and duties (15%) to Canada it's a pretty good deal.

Thanks. Then it looks like I've found a wheelset. Even w/shipping (~50) and duties (15%) to Canada it's a pretty good deal.

from bicyclewheels.com? they state pretty clearly that they only ship to the u.s.

Well I really like these (http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15458-365_FSAR86-3-Parts-75-Wheelsets/FSA-RD-80-Road-Wheelset---Shimano-Compatible.htm) wheels from PricePoint, but they're not really intended for singlespeed. Will there be a difference in performance in respect to wheels if I use singlespeed-specific as opposed to wheels that are intended for cassettes? I understand I can use spacers to align the chain, but would I just be better off with a wheel designed for singlespeed? Thanks.

Bal

Those wheels are another poor choice for a few reasons.
-quick release rear. makes it hard to keep from slipping in horizontal drops.
-free hub designed for multispeed cassettes. cant be redished, will need extra parts to run single, cant run fixed.
-too light weight. at this price point, a 1700g wheel set is not going to be very strong for daily riding, hitting potholes, jumping curbs etc. They will probably give you issues unless babied.

wrong tool for the job...

wheels along the lines of the wienman/formula ones would be a great choice.

Yeah, you might start a real sh*tstorm promoting that a new rider go with a suicide hub. A few guys use 'em, but I think that pointing a total neophyte that direction is irresponsible. If he doesn't know his way around fixed/SS wheels enough to pick out a wheelset, then he's got no business cobbing together something like that.

OP, buy a single-specific wheelset. $80 isn't much to spend for safety.

hmmmmm.....

I am only three months passed being a complete neophyte. Other than minor repairs, this fixie is the first bike I put together, using a good bike maintenace book, buying tools when I got to the point where I needed them and asking a lot of questions at my LBS.

I didn't know what a track hub is when I bought the wheels. I read about using the bottom bracket lock ring somewhere on the internet and it seemed like a good idea to me. I would think that riding a regular hub without a lock ring is dangerous. However, using a lock ring, secured with some thread lock seems pretty bomber to me. Is this not the case?

I also mostly use a front brake to stop and decelerate, so I'm not spending a lot of time working the cog in the wrong direction.

Anyway - I sure wouldn't want anyone to hurt themselves based on my advice. So take my advice for what it is, advice from a neophyte.

I'm curious though, how likely is it that this configuration would actually come off?

don't buy wheels that aren't meant for cog + lockring.

Why? If he's only going to make an SS, not having a lockring won't hurt. I wouldn't do it with a fixie though.

Tim

I just got a set of the Weimann LP -18's / Formula Hubs, from Bicyclewheels.com

Haven't put any real miles on them, but they seem pretty nice. Flip-flop (fixed/free), true out of the box, hubs roll smooth, the rims aren't machined but they stop pretty good.

IMO they were worth the ~$120 spent.

How long did it take you to get the wheelset? I leave for school in a little less than two weeks.

Took about a week, and ordered before Labor Day, so there was a little lag there. They ship via UPS from FL, at least mine did, so take that into account.

From FL transit times:

SouthEast = 1-2 days
NorthEast = 3-4 days
Central = 3-4 days
Great Lakes = 3-4 days
West Coast = 4-5 days
Hawaii = 5-6 days

*i deal w/ UPS transit times everyday, so i know that **** off the top of my head :rolleyes:

I'm curious though, how likely is it that this configuration would actually come off?

Re-reading my original post, I realize that I sound like a bit of a hardon. I didn't mean to, so I apologize if that was the case.

But, that said, the issue of Suicide Hubs (uni-thread hubs fitted with a lockring are known) is touchy. Some guys say its okay (even Sheldon mentions the BB ring + chemical weld as reasonably safe), but others believe that it's very dangerous. I don't really know, I've never tried it...but I think that the decision is best left to someone who knows their way around fix-geared drivetrains, and knows what their riding conditions are. If you use a brake and have the ring chemically attached, it's probably safe....but mechanically speaking, it's not as safe as a track-specific hub. I was trying to avoid the OP from considering this as an option, seeing how little he seems to know.



Why? If he's only going to make an SS, not having a lockring won't hurt. I wouldn't do it with a fixie though.

Tim

My point is that most pre-made SS wheelsets will accommodate both fixed and free, so you get double the value (depending on how you value these options)...plus, they are bolt-on vs QR, which adds a safety element. I guess I just don't see the value in buying a road wheelset and converting it.

the issue of Suicide Hubs (uni-thread hubs fitted with a lockring are known) is touchy. Some guys say its okay (even Sheldon mentions the BB ring + chemical weld as reasonably safe),Not "reasonably safe", but "perfectly safe" as long as you have two handbrakes on the bike.

The "suicide" appellation only applies if you try to rely on it for serious stoppage.


but others believe that it's very dangerous.It's only dangerous if you rely on it instead of a brake.


My point is that most pre-made SS wheelsets will accommodate both fixed and free, so you get double the value (depending on how you value these options)...plus, they are bolt-on vs QR, which adds a safety element.Sorry, I don't buy that. There's nothing safer about nutted ("bolt on" hubs) compared with good quality quick release hubs.

Sheldon "Not A Safety Issue" Brown

+-----------------------------------------------------+
| Life is the art of drawing sufficient conclusions |
| from insufficient premises. --Samuel Butler |
+-----------------------------------------------------+

I don't buy you not buying that

I would not put a quick release on my back axle

especially since I think my fix is a bmx/trick bike

I don't buy you not buying that


Yeah, I second this, and have to call an 'ipse dixit.' None of the SS/fix riders I know run QR due to the problem of slippage (or the fact that track hubs are made with threaded axles)...Sheldon obviously has wayyyy more experience than me, but I'd never run QR on any single speed drivetrain. I think that steering a newcomer towards threaded axles is a sound move, if for nothing other than simplicity's sake.

EDIT-- I've been quickly disproved by some followup posts...

Sheldon obviously has wayyyy more experience than me, but I'd never run QR on any single speed drivetrain. I think that steering a newcomer towards threaded axles is a sound move, if for nothing other than simplicity's sake.

Really? It didn't even occur to me for a second that a QR would be any less safe than a bolt on axle, as long as it is decent quality one and that you secure it properly. I've been running SS with QRs on the front and rear for 2 years with nary a problem....don't you think that road bikes that have QRs are safe?

Really? It didn't even occur to me for a second that a QR would be any less safe than a bolt on axle, as long as it is decent quality one and that you secure it properly. I've been running SS with QRs on the front and rear for 2 years with nary a problem....don't you think that road bikes that have QRs are safe?

Yeah, that's not really what I was saying...on my rig I get some wheel slippage unless I have the rear nuts cranked way the heck down. I don't feel like I can get QR as tight as nuts...not a problem on vertical drops because there's no possibility of them sliding back and forth. I'd prefer to not use QR on any of my bikes, 'coz I've broken a couple of levers...one when cinching it down, and one when I wrecked Mtn biking. I think that they're a pain...nuts are simpler and seem more secure to me. Just my hangup, I guess.

You use QR on a fixed? Or is it SS only? Intriguing... Are they conversion wheels, or QR fixed hubs? Do you have any problems with slipping?

And to clarify-- I don't think that it's really a safety issue...for someone that knows what they're doing...or even if not, it might never cause a problem. But lots of new guys seem to have chain-tension problems, and improperly tightened QR hubs might exacerbate this (I recall a couple of 'I'm a newbie' threads popping up with questions about this.) The OP seems pretty fresh, and I was trying to limit the options to make things a little easier.

Anyway, this is pretty far afield from the OP's question; I didn't intend for it to become a rathole. Might be an interesting thread to start, though. I'm really curious how many guys use QR...honestly, I've never seen it, but I'm not really 'in the scene.' Most of my anecdotal evidence is gleaned from a a few fellow riders and the bikes I see around.

You use QR on a fixed? Or is it SS only? Intriguing... Are they conversion wheels, or QR fixed hubs? Do you have any problems with slipping?

No, it is only on my SS conversion, my track bike has Miche hubs which have a bolt. I've never had issues with slippage on the conversion but I do make a point of having the QR really tightly applied. Here is how it looks, I've since switched the release mechanism to the non-drive side:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j103/jetsanchEz/Work004.jpg


The OP seems pretty fresh, and I was trying to limit the options to make things a little easier.


Yes, I think he wants to do what I did on the bike in the photo, take an old road wheel and space out the freewheel to make a SS wheel. I was lucky enough to find that Shimano WH535 wheel in a dumpster and it rides really great as an SS rig (forgive me the rust, this is my winter/rain bike):

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j103/jetsanchEz/Trip001.jpg

"Fresh"? Regarding my singlespeed background, that's an understatement. jet sanchEZ: you have the right idea. That was my exact idea. However, my frame pretty much made the decision for me as since it's an old Peugeot, the spacing for the forks are too narrow for contemporary wheels that are 130mm. Measured my rear fork and it was around 124mm due to a little bending in the dropouts. I also tried putting my Mavic Open Pros from my road bike on the frame and that was not kosher. So I went w/ the Weinmann DP18s. Thanks all for your extensive and very informative help.

Bal