Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Am I going to totally destroy vintage lightweights?

I love vintage bikes and I'm dying to get a nice old road bike. I'm 6'3" and about 230lbs. on a good day. I'm tired of riding big steel frames, would like to get into aluminum. Right now I'm looking at circa 1980 Bridgestone/Kabuki.

Is this a viable option for me?

IMHO, if you switch to Al you will drop about 10 lbs off the frame.

Weight on a steel bike: 230lb (you) + 35lb (bike) = 265lb. Note I have not included any additional gear.

10 lb /265 lb = 3.8% reduction in weight going to Al. Only you can say if it is worth the time and money.

I believe the frame would support you fine. I would suggest 36 spoke wheels.

I'm 206, and I have an old Bridgestone with wheels that are about 20 years old, and I don't have any issues whatsoever. I ride it gently, though...I don't crash over potholes and railroad tracks....

oh, and I probably have another 10 lbs of water, gatorade, and stuff in my panniers...

I have a 1974 Hetchins, a 1989 Centurion Dave Scott and just sold a 1990 Pinarello. All of them weigh under 25 lbs. and handle my 220 lbs. with little noticeable flex. I think the Kabuki should be fine.

IMHO, if you switch to Al you will drop about 10 lbs off the frame.

Weight on a steel bike: 230lb (you) + 35lb (bike) = 265lb. Note I have not included any additional gear.

10 lb /265 lb = 3.8% reduction in weight going to Al. Only you can say if it is worth the time and money.

I believe the frame would support you fine. I would suggest 36 spoke wheels.

A quality steel road frame is no where near 35 lbs. I have a nishiki that fully dressed only weighs 23. My Aluminum Giant OCR is actually heavier than both my 90's era steel bikes.

The Kabuki the OP mentioned is actually probably a steel frame bike with cast aluminum lugs... But also probably quite light. And also probably quite suitable for the weight.

To the OP keep in mind... those kabuki's have weird seatpost binders and are tough to adjust. But they are very cool bikes. One of my cooks rides one and is quite fond of it.

A quality steel road frame is no where near 35 lbs. I have a nishiki that fully dressed only weighs 23.

I'll second that. My 58cm Japanese built Paramount (1991) is steel and only weighs 23 pounds complete before water bottles and saddle wedge bag.

I don't think you'll hurt the frames, but you're likely to have trouble with wheels unless they're pretty stout--I weigh about 230, too, and I've had problems any time I've tried to go with fewer than 36 spokes.
Incidentally, the 20-year-old Bridgestone Solveg mentioned was probably designed by Grant Petersen, who did that for Bstone before he founded Rivendell. He was sensible even then, and those bikes were quite strong at the expense of a few ounces of weight. And there's NO way you're going to drop 10 pounds just by switching from aluminum to steel. You may get that in total weight reduction with modern components, but even a heavy steel frame (my 64cm Atlantis, for instance) doesn't weigh 10 pounds.

Mine 200 is a year before Grant, I think... but the point is well taken on the frame needs to be a decent one.

I have a silly question... it's so obvious I almost hate to mention it... you people who are having whell problems, you're not going up and down curbs on the bike, are you?

Al will be a stiffer ride. My lbs just told me that I may be overpowering the bottom bracket in one of my aluminum bikes and predicted that it will probably strip out in a year or so (which wouldn't have happened with a steel one).

My Nishiki was 26 pounds with steel rims. To lose the weight off the bike you'll start spending lots of money in tiny weight savers...or lose it off your ass instead ;)

I have a silly question... it's so obvious I almost hate to mention it... you people who are having whell problems, you're not going up and down curbs on the bike, are you?

No, just street and poorly built wheels with bad tension.

Now my mtb I jump curbs at full speed and don't look back. Had to true it once; though I have bent two axles. It's not meant for long distance so I don't really care - it's gotten plenty of use and love since I was in Jr High and has stuck with me this far :)

I also agree that the frame will support you just fine. I would probably invest in new wheels. I would ride the old wheels until they start becoming untrue, and then I would get new ones. Wheels from that era are much more prone to damage, and they used to have to true them all the time, even for lighter riders. Now, they make much, much tougher wheels. I've had great luck with Mavic Open Pros, and many Clydes on BF have mentioned Deep V wheels being even tougher.

If it is a steel frame, then you can get newer, machine-built 130mm or 135mm axled wheels and hubs, and switch to more modern gears (8-10 rear cogs - you can buy new or get older derailures and shifters pretty cheaply). If it is an old Aluminum frame (they made a few), then you are stuck getting your wheels built around vintage 126mm hubs (only 6 and early 7 rear cogs possible).

Have fun with the new bike!

IMHO, if you switch to Al you will drop about 10 lbs off the frame.

Weight on a steel bike: 230lb (you) + 35lb (bike) = 265lb. Note I have not included any additional gear.

10 lb /265 lb = 3.8% reduction in weight going to Al. Only you can say if it is worth the time and money.

I believe the frame would support you fine. I would suggest 36 spoke wheels.

No way is the difference in frame weight between steel and aluminum 10 pounds. Closer to ONE pound (maybe less!) for a good steel frame vs aluminum. I ride an 07 Coda Elite (steel frame). Fully loaded with Brooks B-17, disc brakes, 700 x 28's and wedgie with tools and spare tube it weighs just a shade under 25 pounds.

I don't think you'll hurt the frames, but you're likely to have trouble with wheels unless they're pretty stout--I weigh about 230, too, and I've had problems any time I've tried to go with fewer than 36 spokes.

32 spoke wheels will hold up just fine if built properly and you don't intentionally run over parking blocks and potholes. I ride 32 spokes on my commuter and it's fine (although that is a 26" rim, so it's a little more stout.) I've got the original Wolber 32-spokers on my road bike, and after a quick tension and truing they're just fine. I'm 240 pounds and I just hammered out 65 miles on those wheels this weekend without any problems.

You guys are awesome, glad to hear I can have fun on a fun bike. The bike I'm eyeing has aluminum rims, which is a first for me.

No way is the difference in frame weight between steel and aluminum 10 pounds. Closer to ONE pound (maybe less!) for a good steel frame vs aluminum. I ride an 07 Coda Elite (steel frame). Fully loaded with Brooks B-17, disc brakes, 700 x 28's and wedgie with tools and spare tube it weighs just a shade under 25 pounds.

I ADDED nearly 20 pounds just adding the saddlebags, mounting frame (steel) and ephemera, expecting 10-12 more when I'm finished.

You guys are awesome, glad to hear I can have fun on a fun bike. The bike I'm eyeing has aluminum rims, which is a first for me.

You'll love the braking with aluminum rims! That's for sure!