Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Big Guy needs tips on a stronger, longer lasting chain

I've been having some trouble with chain skip, and after some prodding, the chain tool was introduced at the LBS. Measurement of the chain came in at 85% worn. That's after 250 miles on the chain. I wore my Xmart bike chain out in just over 100miles. Now, the Giant Cypress DX chain has gone south. So, instead of putting the standard LBS mid-low grade chain on the bike, I'd like to know any recommendations you guys might have for a strong, long lasting chain.

BTW, I lube every other week with Pro-Link. Wipe the chain off once a week.

Xposted in mechanics forum.

Measurement of the chain came in at 85% worn. That's after 250 miles on the chain.

:eek:Wow! I have had three chains get over 2,000 miles each. What kind of riding do you do? The Uphill Mash?

After reading your comments in the Mechanics section, there is something wrong with what you are doing. With only 250 miles on the bike, and you are adding lube every other week, I am going to say that you have:

1) Too much lubrication.
2) Add you are cross chaining way too much.

My recommendation is a SRAM PC971. LEAVE THE FACTORY LUBE ON! Lube the chain only if it sounds dry, or if you have ridden in a lot of rain or mud. Read about cross chaining and understand what that does to the wear on the chain itself. Attend a shifting clinic and learn about shifting and care of the drivetrain.

I have this same chain on a newly built up frame and have well over 500 miles on it. I have lubed it ONCE since the installation in late April and it is still silent.

- Wipperman stainless

Either of the last 2 chain suggestions are good, and I tend to agree with ang1sgt about technique.

Lubing: I use Pedro's Wax lube every 300 miles +/- as the chain sounds dry. Too much of an oil base wet lube will attract dirt and grit and this = WEAR!

Stainless chains are fine for those that understand about cross chaining and AVOIDING it. But if this person is having chain problems now, it could be even more problems with stainless due to the galling effect that occurs with stainless to stainless contact. Add this to the excess lubricant and you have the perfect conditions for accelerated chain, chainring and cassette wear.

I am NOT saying that Stainless is bad. Anything but that. I have had success with these chains on Tandems for timing chains, and for the long runs in recumbents that are easier on chains. Your results may very...

It sounds also like you're mashing much more than spinning. Work on pedaling faster and easier versus slower and harder. Your knees will thank you and you'll be able to ride for longer periods. We Clydes tend to rely on our brute strength more than the bikes are designed to respond to it ;)

I use the dry wax lube - I've never heard that too much can speed up chain wear. Why is that?

If the first chain was worn really bad, his sprockets may be gone too.

I tend to go with mid-grade chains like the Shimano HG-73. It's durable, runs pretty quiet on my old 7-speed cassette, and I tend not to cross-gear or mash very much so I get about 3,000 miles or more out of each one.
I ride all winter in crappy PNW rain and slush with cinders mixed in just for fun. I clean my chain with Dumonde or Pedros citrus cleaner and a Finish Line chain cleaner tool once a week, and lube it with Finish Line dry formula during the summer, and Finish Line wet formula during the rainy season.

If you run a newer chain on a worn drivetrain it will wear the chain very quickly, if your chain is 85% worn there is little doubt that the cassette is also worn.
If you lube your chain without first cleaning it the chain will wear faster than if you had not lubed it as the lube will carry the grit into the pins and rollers.
If you cross chain then both your drivetrain and chain will wear quickly as the chain will be running at angles it was not really designed to.

I have used SRAM (PC48, PC58, PC68, PC1 the numbers have changed recently), Shimano (HG70), and a variety of KMC chains. Other than the method of connecting the chain (the SRAM Powerlink is my favourite) there is nothing to choose between any of the chains I have used as far as wear is concerned. I manage the same sort of mileage out of all of them but prefer the stainless chains as a lot of my riding is in very wet conditions so rusting is a factor. I very much doubt you are going to address your issue by choosing a different chain, it is more likely that a new cassette is in order.

Are you running a stainless chain with a steel sprocket. Stainless is softer than steel and will gull
as the above poster said. Also check your sprockets to make sure the teeth are not damaged and
causing the waer to your chain. Maybe you are really hammering on the sprocket. I have chains that have lasted 6 years with out ever lubing , of course I have to replace the sprockets with it also now:(.
Something sounds wrong maybe the sprockets don't have the correct clearance for the chains.
Dynodan

I use the dry wax lube - I've never heard that too much can speed up chain wear. Why is that?

I am looking at this from strictly a Mechanics Point of view, which is what I am. Trying to troubleshoot this problem without having the bike and parts in hand is very difficult. I would love to see the BAD chains and see how much stretch they really have and how much side to side play they have.

Too much lube, depending on conditions, is worse than have no lube. The reason being is that lubricant can attract dirt and allow it to cling to areas you do not want it in. Grit, along with lube becomes a polishing compound of sorts and will start to wear parts.

Proper chain lubing is ONE DROP per roller and link pin. In theory, the side plates and inner plates need little lubrication. For the most part lube on the plates is there to protect them from the elements on the cheaper chains.

I am not a big fan of dry wax lubes. Some flake off or offer little protection after they get wet. It is imperative to re-lube after any rainstorm or cleaning with these lubes. I only lube my chains if they sound dry or start to squeak while being pedaled.

For cleaning, I remove the chain and soak or immerse it to remove any dirt and grime in a good degreaser. I allow it to dry and then wipe it down to remove any dry residue. I then apply one drop of my lube to the roller and pin and then install back onto the bike using a SRAM quick link.

My chains typically last me at least 3000 miles on my Recumbent and I replace the cassette along with the chains at that time. On my MTB's I get between 1500-3000 miles from them. The Tandem gets the chain replaced no matter what every 2000 miles and the timing chain too.

I have had two failures of chains, both on MTB's Both time way off the beaten path. One due to chain suck into the frame and the other was a side plate failure. This is over 40 years of riding my own bikes and an average mileage of 1800 miles a year.

I've got to say, some of you are making me feel completely stupid. Is riding in the middle chain ring and the middle of the cassette cross chaining? Either here or in mechanics, someone implied that the bike shop owner with over 20 years of experience didn't know how to use the chain tool properly... I swear...Tomorrow, I'm going to take pictures and post them...However, I am going to have the chain tool used on a couple of the new bikes on the floor, just to see if I didn't get that head start...

My recommendation is a SRAM PC971. LEAVE THE FACTORY LUBE ON!

Does Sachs make the SRAM chains? I've heard this rumor but never confirmed it.

Back in the day when I was primarily riding off road, I had problems with Shimano chains breaking and such. I started using Sachs chains and I never had any problems. They're not as smooth as shimano, but they seem to hold up a lot better.

SRAM purchased Sachs somewhere around 10 years ago. I recall buying a SRAM packaged chain ages ago that had Sachs stamped on the links.

Are you positive it's the chain skipping and not an adjustment issue or a freewheel issue ? 100-250 miles is about time for the first adjustments due to cable stretch. Modern shifting systems are very sensitive to cable stretch. A freewheel issue can show up feeling like a skip as well, just went through that myself. You said you have been lubing a lot, you having been using a cleaner as well have you ? Excessive use of chain cleaner can remove all of the lube from the pins of the chain and cause faster wear.

Shog