Classic & Vintage - Drop bar MTB conversions. Any one got pics?

I'm pretty hot on doing one of these, and I have the bike, bars, and the aero levers. I was thinking about using the DT shifter mounts from the wrecked touring bike I got last week, and brazing them on. I was thinking about using drop bars, 26 x 1.5 slicks, etc. It would almost look like a late 90's road bike, except for the rims and tires. The bike has a slightly slanted top tube. I guess it would be more of a hybrid/cross than a true road bike, but it's something I've been wanting to do for a while.

Anybody have a pic or two of their conversions?

Bridgestone put drop bars on their '87 MB-1: http://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1987/index.htm

A shame the pic is chopped in two right where it counts, but definitely what I'm going to attempt. Cool!,,,,BD

the original drop-bar fattie. Jaquie Phelan's Cunningham Indian.

Luker, where do you buy that kind of stem?

the original drop-bar fattie. Jaquie Phelan's Cunningham Indian.

That's a really slick looking bike.

Tim

That's a Nitto Dirtdrop stem on the MB-1.

Luker, where do you buy that kind of stem?

ah...I think, you'd have to contact Charlie, or find an extra somewhere (woohoo. good luck there). Cunningham built as much of the bike as he could, and the stem was one of those things he made.

BTW, if anyone knows where one of these is leaning up against a fence or something, you should try to secure it. It is the Confente of mountain bikes...

A shame the pic is chopped in two right where it counts, but definitely what I'm going to attempt. Cool!,,,,BD


Yeah, but it shows regular drop levers and cantilevers, and barcons. Both are pretty standard parts to find, and canti's have long been a staple on touring bikes with drops. So, shifting and braking appear to be solved.

What other issues would there be fo rbuilding such a bike...... the stem size? If so, use an mtb stem and shim the bars in the clamp with shim stock (or beer cans).

Yeah, but it shows regular drop levers and cantilevers, and barcons. Both are pretty standard parts to find, and canti's have long been a staple on touring bikes with drops. So, shifting and braking appear to be solved.

What other issues would there be fo rbuilding such a bike...... the stem size? If so, use an mtb stem and shim the bars in the clamp with shim stock (or beer cans).

Did you read my post big guy? That's the Nitto stem they named after me!

No pictures at present, but I have an Old Trek 850 Antelope with a Cyclocross set-up. Salsa Moto Bars, Canti Brakes Bar end shifter running 1X7 and some hard to find Hutchison 26x1.3 knobbies. Perfect Rails to Trails bike....
I did run it in the local Cyclo cross events for one season and wasn't the slowest guy out there. It was my goal to not get lapped. The leader laughed his ass off when we had a sprint to the finish, of course I had one lap yet to go......

Did you read my post big guy? That's the Nitto stem they named after me!

Yes, this time I did. :p

I was more or less addressing the OP's comment about the pic being chopped "where it counted". I was thinking more out loud than anything, about using stuff at hand.

The Nitto stem is the Final Solution, as you pointed out.

It also works with Moustache bars.

http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/19348/1315637840068014369S425x425Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1315637840068014369GPeTnK)

And whatever these are, but with a shim:

http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/19490/1315648998068014369S425x425Q85.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1315648998068014369ZkhXGG)

not a mountain bike but a stock hybrid miyata alumi cross but sort of what you are looking for.

There's a couple in here, but I think the stem's cost more that most of my bikes ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/1316443832/in/set-72157601848386315/

Bob

As above, not a mountain bike but a flat-bar hybird set up with drops:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/top506/Triplecross2.jpg

Top

Just finished my third MTB to roadbar-conversion today. First one is a nice old Kuwahara turned itnto a touring bike. Found out that a 19 inch frame is a tad to small for such a converson, the bars do not get up high enough. Second bike is a 20 inch Miyata turned into a studded singlespeed. Works great. Last one is a huge 22 inch old bonded Merida aluminum with the first 7-speed xt generation (decent bio-pace, actually works).
For the geared bikes I simply grind the old thumbshifters inside and force them on the end of the roadbars.Both have under chainstay U-brakes and it is a bit tricky to set them up but they work OK.
Seems to me that this sort of conversion works best with a large frame.
I enjoy passing 20 year younger guys on carbon MTB wonders costing 40 times my fleamarket bikes on the fireroads.

Mine:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x25/coutujean/2.jpg

It's not a brakeless fixXxie w/no clips, Shimano 333 Coaster Brake.

Big fun to ride!

I was wanting to do this to my Specialized Hard Rock, but I just might do the conversion on this Wheeler
I found yesteday,,,,BD

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/Wheeler3000.jpg


This was the original intended victim. I may still choose this one, knowing me.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/Cruzhard-1.jpg

Not a great picture, but you get the idea: '90 (?) Rock Hopper with an old set of SR Road Champion bars and RSX 8-speed brifters. It's my craptastic kid trailer hauler and grocery getter. I'm also thinking of using it to try out the local CX scene.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y18/CalOso/October06065.jpg

I've got M-bars on my Trek 730. With a short steep stem, they feel great. I've wrapped them since taking the pic below.

Neal

http://web.mit.edu/nlerner/Public/Bikes/Trek730_3.jpg

I was thinking about doing this with my mid 90's Gary Fisher. I can only imagine the looks I would get from the roadies.

To me it only makes sense. Unless you drive out somewhere to ride, the roads are beyond horrible. Pavement gaps alone can cause a pinch flat around where I live. To ride here, you have to make sure your tongue is inside your teeth at all times, haha. I like road geometry, but if I run anything less than 25's I will be walking home. It's only a matter of how far from home I get. Therefore while riding my 700 bikes I mainly stay on side streets. The 27 inchers are a little more forgiving, but not by a whole lot.,,,,BD

I'm pretty hot on doing one of these, and I have the bike, bars, and the aero levers. I was thinking about using the DT shifter mounts from the wrecked touring bike I got last week, and brazing them on. I was thinking about using drop bars, 26 x 1.5 slicks, etc. It would almost look like a late 90's road bike, except for the rims and tires. The bike has a slightly slanted top tube. I guess it would be more of a hybrid/cross than a true road bike, but it's something I've been wanting to do for a while.

Anybody have a pic or two of their conversions?
Been running drop bars since 1986. Details in my signature link

To me it only makes sense. Unless you drive out somewhere to ride, the roads are beyond horrible. Pavement gaps alone can cause a pinch flat around where I live. To ride here, you have to make sure your tongue is inside your teeth at all times, haha. I like road geometry, but if I run anything less than 25's I will be walking home. It's only a matter of how far from home I get. Therefore while riding my 700 bikes I mainly stay on side streets. The 27 inchers are a little more forgiving, but not by a whole lot.,,,,BD

One of the advantages of vintage steel is that many of the frames have clearance for wide tires at the forks and stays (at least, MUCH wider than modern frames). Why not try running 28s or even a little fatter on wider rims, like a Sun CR-18. You'll feel much more stable on rough terrain with these.

Interesting page, and I can see your points. While I mainly ride in urban settings, straightbars are at a disadvantage here as well. If you have bar ends, you're practically asking to be injured. Countless things can hook a straightbar or bar end and send you to the ground in a hurry. Low tree limbs, chainlink fences, sign poles, the list goes on and on. I was also a bit worried about the strength of vintage road bars, and the flared purpose built bars seem much safer. There's an LBS I frequent, where they specialize in things outside the norm, hehe. I saw a set of those bars there once, so I know they won't go "huh?". I will price a set, and go from there.,,,,BD

Shifter mounting will be the next hurdle. I'm not a big fan of brifters, but that's mainly a cost factor on my part. I for sure want canti brakes, though.

One of the advantages of vintage steel is that many of the frames have clearance for wide tires at the forks and stays (at least, MUCH wider than modern frames). Why not try running 28s or even a little fatter on wider rims, like a Sun CR-18. You'll feel much more stable on rough terrain with these.

We also have a bunch of loose gravel. I was looking for something "urban assault" style. The ability to hop
curbs without worrying about the forks or bending a rim. I do have a Shogun touring bike in the works that will do most of what a fatter tired bike would do, but jumping a curb is a little on the iffy side. It has 700x35 Nashbar tires on it, and is a very comfortable ride. It has a riser stem with Schwinn randonneur bars. I am still in the "engineering" stage. More like trying parts on and see if they fit and work correctly:rolleyes:,,,,BD

The wheels are from a Cannondale Adventure 400. I am really tempted to use the 4 hole triple from it as well. I imagine the ones on it now are lighter.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/Shotgun1.jpg

Interesting page, and I can see your points. While I mainly ride in urban settings, straightbars are at a disadvantage here as well. If you have bar ends, you're practically asking to be injured. Countless things can hook a straightbar or bar end and send you to the ground in a hurry. Low tree limbs, chainlink fences, sign poles, the list goes on and on. I was also a bit worried about the strength of vintage road bars, and the flared purpose built bars seem much safer. There's an LBS I frequent, where they specialize in things outside the norm, hehe. I saw a set of those bars there once, so I know they won't go "huh?". I will price a set, and go from there.,,,,BD

Shifter mounting will be the next hurdle. I'm not a big fan of brifters, but that's mainly a cost factor on my part. I for sure want canti brakes, though.
Barend shifters work great

Yep, they do! Actually they're the thumb shifters from the factory bars, mounted on the ends of the grips. This is better looking than I thought! I thought it looked a little funny at first, but I took it off the stand and stood back. The only problem is the brakes feel a little on the weak side. I'm thinking the difference in the brake arms may be the cause. The donor bike has the wide elbow type, and the Specialized has the more upright bent style. Does that sound logical?,,,,BD


http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/HardRoad.jpg

The only problem is the brakes feel a little on the weak side. I'm thinking the difference in the brake arms may be the cause. The donor bike has the wide elbow type, and the Specialized has the more upright bent style. Does that sound logical?,,,,BD


Hey I like what you did with the shifters, that's a cool idea!

The soft brakes may be because the straddle wires may be a bit too long. Here's what Sheldon has to say about it (scroll down to the "mechanical advantage" part).

http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

wow, now i want to do one of these bikes, maybe if i find another mtb, i will consider this.

I had a chance to ride it up and down the road a couple of times. What surprised me the most, is the comfort of it, everything seems to be in the right place. It does have a little heaviness in the front end due to the bigger tires, but it wasn't that big a deal at speed. It fits me very well, better than most road bikes I own. Not sure if it's the slanted top tube or what, but almost feels like it has a riser stem on it. On the hoods is perfect reach too. I don't have to worry about every bump in the road now either, with the 1.75 tires.:D

Point taken on the straddle cables. They did seem a little long at the time. Less leverage to push the
shoes into the rim. I imagine the long levers on the MTB bars helped overcome that somewhat.

I switched to a narrower saddle and alloy seatpost, lost the plastic dork disc, and shortened the straddle cables. Good call McDave!! I took out about an inch in front, and around 3/4" on the back. They're working like canti's should now. Before the shoes would touch the rim, but no real force was being applied. Now it stops way better.

I will probably will take an updated pic tomorrow afternoon. Inventory time at work, sigh. My favorite part is that I was able to save the padded vinyl wrap. I love the feel of that stuff!. I am riding it to work in the morning.,,,,BD

A fast and fun inexpensive autumn and winterbike.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/plodderslusk/125_2546.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/plodderslusk/125_2548.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/plodderslusk/125_2547.jpg

Cool ride! Interesting cable arrangement on the stem, never seen that type. It reminds me of the Wheeler hybrid I found last weekend, but a different design.,,,,BD

I finally got off work, and will take a fresh pic in a minute or two.

Here it is. Not a whole lot different, but it's looking more serious without the chrome seatpost and dork disc.,,,BD

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/HardRoad2.jpg

Damn, the BB just gave out. This is my training bike for a 150, so I tried going over the overpass near my house. I got up and over twice without any trouble, then decided to ride a little around the neighborhood. A few minutes later I noticed a loud creaking/crackling noise and feeling from the cranks. I changed out the old plastic pedals thinking that was it. Nope, it was the BB bearings. I guess I will have to pick up a new one, and a RR tool. The perfect excuse for installing the 4 hole Cannondale triple, hehe.,,,,BD

Does 1/2 an MTB qualify?

http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/MyBikes/fat-road/side.jpg

I built this in 1989 using the seat tube and rear triangle are from a crashed, high end Schwinn MTB. Nice and light, with the long chainstays common to MTBs from the early '80. As you can see, I need the bars very high. So I curved a piece of 1" x 0.035" 4130 for the TT and extended the HT, well before Rivendell etc. were doing it.

The lower head lug is a Cinelli MTB upper head lug, giving a 69 degree head angle and a long 44" wheelbase. A generic road fork combined with shallow HT angle give the bike a lot of trail, but wheelflop is only noticeable at low speeds. It's the perfect bike for a day trip, exploring new routes. I did 40 miles on it yesterday, about 1/4 on dirt roads and limestone trails, even a bit of singletrack.

Tires are an NOS set of the original, completely slick, 26 x 1.75" Continental Avenue. Unlike most fat MTB slicks, the Contis have a thin, pliable carcass, giving low rolling resistance without high pressures. The tires, shallow head angle and long wheelbase make the bike a real treat on crushed limestone Rails-To-Trails.

Homebrewed bag holder mounts an old Cannondale handlebar bag to the HT.
Bars - 45cm Nitto B115s splayed out to 49cm at the shifters.
Seat - Brooks B-67
RD - Titanium Huret Duo-Par

I thought my Kandy Korn paint job was really cool, till I found out there was a Gary Fisher model painted just like it.

ok, wow, taht thing is wild, but pretty cool.

thread on my shogun MTB hack:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=300483&highlight=shogun+hack