New Rob Roy Group Buy Thread.

[dirtyphotons]

mine was 132.5 within a mm or two, based on the wheels that i've popped in there. but mine was an earlier production run.

[jmonkey]

I was looking on the website to see if I could find the rear dropout spacing in print, but, alas, there is no more Rob Roy on the website. I guess I'll have to go down to the basement with a ruler.

http://www.irofixedgear.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=4

[slopvehicle]

haven't started building mine up yet, I need to get spacers for my rear wheel (I'm transferring 90% of the parts from my current conversion)

I was looking on the website to see if I could find the rear dropout spacing in print, but, alas, there is no more Rob Roy on the website. I guess I'll have to go down to the basement with a ruler.

Pics when I'm done...

I scavenged my spacers from a couple old mountain hubs I had. Each was about 7mm, which made for 134mm spacing on my formerly 120mm IRO / Formula track hub. I have to spread the dropouts ever so slightly when I insert the wheel, so I'm guessing the frame is indeed spaced to 132.5.

[dry_sockets]

just framesavered mine last night and will start the build tonight.
framesaver is fairly gross stuff. blech.

can't wait! i love the color, and i am looking forward to dialing in the fit.

[period3]

Does that stuff really make a difference? I'd do mine, but I can't find framesaver anywhere (in Canada)...

I just need to install my headset and cut the fork steerer, but the LBS wants 50 bucks for it. Maybe I'll try that homemade headset press...

just framesavered mine last night and will start the build tonight.
framesaver is fairly gross stuff. blech.

can't wait! i love the color, and i am looking forward to dialing in the fit.

[bonechilling]

Does that stuff really make a difference? I'd do mine, but I can't find framesaver anywhere (in Canada)...

It's hard to say whether or not it makes a difference, but is that a chance you want to take? Every steel frame maker recommends a liberal application, so that should say something. In place of Frame Saver, you can just use boiled Linseed oil. I apply it using a syringe (to get it into the narrow little holes in the tubes).

I just need to install my headset and cut the fork steerer, but the LBS wants 50 bucks for it. Maybe I'll try that homemade headset press...

I definitely recommend doing it yourself. Most headsets can be pressed in gently with a hammer and a block of wood, or you can make you own (http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2007/06/headset-removal-and-replacement.html) press, the Dave Moulton way. Cutting the steerer tube gets a little more complicated - there are a lot of cheap ways to do it, but none of them really offer the accuracy of using a saw guide. You might see how much your LBS charges to cut the cut the steerer and install the star nut. It seem to me like a $10 job that they'd do while you wait, although this is the busy season, so they might feel justified asking $20+ for it.

[bward1028]

Does that stuff really make a difference? I'd do mine, but I can't find framesaver anywhere (in Canada)...

I just need to install my headset and cut the fork steerer, but the LBS wants 50 bucks for it. Maybe I'll try that homemade headset press...

i can mail you a can, if you really really want to try it. pm me.

[Ziemas]

Does that stuff really make a difference? I'd do mine, but I can't find framesaver anywhere (in Canada)...

I just need to install my headset and cut the fork steerer, but the LBS wants 50 bucks for it. Maybe I'll try that homemade headset press...

Yes, it does. I've done all sorts of basement tests with Frame Saver and other rust inhibitors. It really works. It appears to be the same thing as Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, which can be found at many auto parts stores.

If you get some on the outside of your frame it can be cleaned off with WD-40.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx

[Ziemas]

Can someone please tell me the seat clamp size? Thanks.

[dry_sockets]

seatpost clamp was 30, right?

the framesaver cured, and i spent several enjoyable hours building my rob roy up last night.
the bike looks and rides great. still dialing in the fit...i put some on-one midge mars on there and they are going to be interesting to sort out.

i put in my headset with the dave moulton style homemade press. i still always find it a stressful half hour while i turn the nuts and readjust positioning and hope i am not deforming my headtube, but this is actually the third headset i've put in with it and it always works out fine. setting the fork crown race, otoh, is always a pain in the ass.

overall, i am stoked. i finally have the orange singlespeed with cantis that i have always wanted! pics coming.

[mconlonx]

Cutting the steerer tube gets a little more complicated - there are a lot of cheap ways to do it, but none of them really offer the accuracy of using a saw guide.

A tube cutter works great and is extremely accurate. Takes a while to cut through a steerer, but works like a charm.

[bward1028]

A tube cutter works great and is extremely accurate. Takes a while to cut through a steerer, but works like a charm.

for some reason, my tube cutter mushroomed the steerer tube. i had to file it down so that i could get the headset and spacers to slide on, and even then it was a challenge.

[slopvehicle]

I've used my pipe cutter on a few steerer tubes, handlebars and seatposts in the past. This time around, though, the cutting wheel snapped at a quarter turn! So I just put it on my carpeted workbench and used a hacksaw. worked fine-- a little crooked, but of well. I can always cut it again...after I buy a new pipe cutter.

[SeanBonham]

Tube cutters are no good for Steerer tubes. They will cut it nice and flush, but when you go to put the stem etc. on, it's no good. Good ol' hack saw and a file is what the shops use.

Seatpost Clamp is 30mm, just got a sweet salsa lip-lock for mine.

[dirtyphotons]

yeah, +1 on severe pipe cutter damage from a rob roy steerer tube. aluminum tubes are fine, for steel go with a hacksaw.

[mconlonx]

"Tube cutters are no good for Steerer tubes."

Hmm. You'll have to tell that to my fork steerer. Seemed to work great on it just last week.

Yes, there may be some cleaning up to do with a file afterwards, but not much more than with a hacksaw. I installed the headset race first, then cut the tube--had no problem fitting the fork, headset, spacers, or stem. Might explain why the spangled nut was a b!tch to install, though. YMMV...

I once broke a cutting wheel while trying to cut at a slight bend in a steel handlebar. Luckily, you can get spare cutting wheels at a hardware store.

[SeanBonham]

here:
http://www.parktool.com/images/products/productimages/spr_SG-6a_200632_54593.jpg

[jhota]

i've used hacksaws and tubing cutters. worked fine each time.

but the last couple forks i installed, i used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. worked like a charm and fast.

but i think i'll just use the chop saw for this one.

[dwainedibbly]

I've had good luck with a tubing cutter, too. I think the key is to not crank down on the screw too hard and take a round file to the inside afterwards, if necessary.

[heyjaffy]

Finished my build last night and just got back from my first ride. Just. Plain. Awesome. With the monster tires, curved stays, and Brooks saddle, it's a comfy commuter.

http://www.canigogreen.com/robroy.jpg
built with mostly new, but inexpensive parts
* Rob Roy 60cm
* Nexus 8 Red Band laced to Sun CR-18 rim
* Panaracer T-serv 700x35 tires
* Bulletproof cranks on shimano un54 BB
* BBG bash guard
* Rocket Ring
* Kore 130 stem
* Cane Creek S6 Headset
* Avid Shorty 4 brakes
* Nashbar Butterfly/Trekking bar with a unique setup:

http://www.canigogreen.com/bars.jpg

The cross lever pulls the front brake (along with the right front lever, left front lever operates the rear). I posted a question about this last week and had some debate - most folks disagreed with the routing and purpose of a single extra lever, but I'll say on my test ride, it was really nice to have. It won't help too much in emergency situation I think, but it was nice to not have to move my hand position away from the back part of the bar when coming to a casual stop or just to scrub speed. Oh, and that's an Airzounds horn that I tried out for the first time - f'ing loud! Like hurt my ears loud - sure did get the attention of the car that passed me a little too close for comfort though.

[jhota]

i love strange handlebar setups. looks good!

[dry_sockets]

what gear ratios are people running?

i've got 48x16, using it for road riding in nyc.

[jhota]

36x16 for now. at least, if my parts ever show up.

[bward1028]

44/18 fixed. 44/22 freewheel.
haven't used the freewheel yet, though.

[slopvehicle]

42x16 freewheel, 42x17 fixed for commuting

[period3]

46x16 fixed, for road riding in Toronto. Will probably change it to something more suitable for offroad since I'm using another bike for commuting now.

what gear ratios are people running?

i've got 48x16, using it for road riding in nyc.

[sfcrossrider]

42x18

[jhota]

hooray! parts finally showed. :D

but i'm a moron. :( installed the rear brake cable on the front. too used to buying bulk cables vs. sets, i guess. so now i need to get a rear brake cable to finish the build. darnit.

[justinb]

If it makes you feel any better, I've cut cable housing to size with the cable still in it.... oops.

[mellowdave]

I cannot believe I missed this. I have been trying to find a knockaround SS for a year. JEEEZ!!!!

and in flat black no less. F F F F F F F

[period3]

I want to change my Rob Roy into something more suitable for offroad use.

I have the IRO 165mm 46T crankset, which is probably too big for offroad but I'd like to avoid the cost of changing it if I can. I have a fixed/fixed hub. What is the largest freewheel I can put on the back? The biggest I can find so far is 22T...

(As an aside, is there any reason why a smaller chainring up front and a smaller cog in the back is preferable?)

[dry_sockets]

46x22 is gonna spin pretty easily. i think other than weight, bigger rings front and back are better since they engage more teeth.

[dry_sockets]

finally got my pics up!

here it is, built:

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2192/2417090937_fe677aa35f.jpg?v=0">

frame is 62
sugino cranks 175
formula 36 spoke hubs to open pros
soma everwear whitewalls 26
mks pedals
on-one midge bar
cane creek levers and headset

[dry_sockets]

dang....how do you post an image here?

[Elisdad]

Use the IMG tag.

[ IMG ]INSERT URL HERE[ /IMG] - Remove spaces to make it work correctly. See working example below.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2192/2417090937_fe677aa35f.jpg?v=0

[dry_sockets]

thanks! so, uh...there it is.

[grahny]

So, uh, anyone have a Black 60 Rob Roy they want to part with?
EDIT: Cancel that... Got one from IRO. :D (not at the group buy price though :( - however it does have a nice IRO headbadge)

[hypoxic]

Speaking of steer tubes. Did anyone who had the 'complete your Rob Roy' option not get their tube cut almost all the way down? Looking at the 'frame only' pics, thats the length i was hoping to get, so I could whittle away at it till I got it dialed in. Now i've go nowhere to go, other than a new fork.

Other than that, and the wheels missing the nuts to keep the valve stem in place, I'm super happy with what i finally got after all these months!

[hypoxic]

Sweet! Tony's sending me a new fork to swap out. Chalk me up as another satisfied IRO owner!

[Slag0e]

I have a 56cm orange rob roy I'm willing to part with, so if anyone is interested with pm me

[oharescrubs]

hyejaffy, our builds are gonna be quite similer, and i live in dc.

[Ronsonic]

Got'r built up and I've gotten a few commutes on it. Photo's soon. "Famous Brand" Bontrager Satellite fork, cheap mustache bars from Chuck's, Tektro mini-v brakes with Drop V levers and a Sugino crank with a 38 on it. Wheels are 88 D/A hubs with same vintage Matrix ISO aero rims. Those rims weigh a ton but are completely bomb proof. Got the 32mm Speedmax tires from my pretubular days - which happen to have an orange stripe to match the frame. The only thing more beautiful than seeing a plan come together is a happy accident to finish it off. I'm trying a WTB Pure V saddle that's working great for me.

Rides and handles very nicely. Rolls sweet, even over some cobblestone streets I found on the way to work. These are nice cobbles, not like the evil Roo-Bay kind, still cobbles. This thing is smooth. Pretty damn quick, too. I haven't weighed it, but it feels light and even lighter on the road. It just disappears under me, right from the start. Took about ten minutes to figure out hand positions on the bars, I hadn't used mustache bars before and got used to these quick.

I was a bit surprised at the number of people who built these up with mustache bars- thought I was being all clever and different and stuff. The Drop V levers aren't as good a match for the bars as a more traditional lever would be, but still good feel and reachable. They're excellent levers, especially for the price. The whole brake system's working perfectly. Couldn't ask for more power, as the pads wear in the control is getting better, but was never bad, just grippy at first. No mechanical issues at all except for centering the chainring. This is my first single speed in decades and it didn't occur to me to check before I rode it.

Sometime this next week I'll find a good way to get it dirty. We'll see how it takes to the trails, should be fun.

[tarckbear]

Sweet! Tony's sending me a new fork to swap out. Chalk me up as another satisfied IRO owner!

too bad the stock iro forks suck. it'll weigh almost as much as the bike.