General Cycling Discussion - Remove Front Suspension from ATB / Other Upgrades?

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trifona
08-13-03, 02:38 PM
I have a Trek 6000 either 1999 or 2000...most blue w/ red and white if that helps.
I use this bike mostly on pavement, and will be hooking this upto a Minoura Aluminum Hyper-Mag Trainer as well.
I would consider removing the front suspension fork, a Manitou Magnum, and replacing it with a lighter & better suited fixed...but I have no idea where to begin here or elsewhere since I'm not really informative on Bycicle mechanics.
I know it has:
Shimano Acera Crankset,
Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur
Shimano STX Rear Hub
Is it worth ppouring money into at this point? The only upgrade I have done was to a stronger rear wheel since I had one bend on me while on the bike path. In retrospect, maybe I should have bought a road bike 3 years ago, but their prices sort of scared me off.
Also, how how ATB bikes tested for size? I bought a 19.5" bike but don't recall doing anything other that a couple of rides in the parking lot with a few bikes. I'm 5'11 & ~240.
Stick with it? Upgrade it? or Sell it?
At around ~$500 I think it's served me well thus far and provided great value.
Richard D
08-14-03, 04:32 AM
Originally posted by trifona
I would consider removing the front suspension fork, a Manitou Magnum, and replacing it with a lighter & better suited fixed...but I have no idea where to begin here or elsewhere since I'm not really informative on Bycicle mechanics.
A cheap rigid steel fork will probably be a fair bit lighter but they're not many about as even most entry level bikes come with suspension these days. It's worth having a word with your local bikeshop to see if they've got one from someone who has upgraded to front suspension. Alternatively PACE and Kona make new rigid forks but they're not that cheap.
Also, how how ATB bikes tested for size? I bought a 19.5" bike but don't recall doing anything other that a couple of rides in the parking lot with a few bikes. I'm 5'11 & ~240.
Stick with it? Upgrade it? or Sell it?
At around ~$500 I think it's served me well thus far and provided great value. [/B]
Manufactures differ in where they take measurements from so it pays to actually try different bikes, they also vary a bit in top tube length.
Richard
trifona
08-14-03, 06:19 AM
Richard,
Thank you for your advice.
Do you have any opinions as far as upgrading componentry goes?
I could upgrade the the crankset, front derailleur and cassette to Deore LX w/o spending too much in hard cash.
1) Would the cost in upgrading to that level of components in the drivetrain prove significant over what I have?
&
2) What kind of actual gains would be evident?
Thanks
Richard D
08-14-03, 06:47 AM
Unless the parts are already badly worn you're probably best waiting until they are, but I'd upgrade the crankset, cassette and chain anyway ;)
It should be a little lighter and shift slightly better, but to be honest it's unlikely to be that noticeable... Front derailleurs are cheap to be replace but the difference in performance between them is minimal.
All IMO - other views may be equally valid... ;)
Richard
if you ride in pavement, i think a smaller tire would improve performance more than upgrading your components..
You can use 26x1~1.3 slick tires. You will notice the performance difference, i'm sure.
Replacing the fork with a rigid one is a good idea if you want more pedalling efficiency. There are lots to choose from, Aluminum, Steel, even Carbon.
STX is a good group but when it comes to efficiency the XT and XTRs are unsurpassed (refering to shimano only).. If I were you, I'de replace those STX hubs with a Deore-LX at least.
Acera Cranks are a bit heavy, but if you don't mind the weight, its not worth replacing until worn.. But if you do replace them, get at least the Deore. The Alivio is nice, but since price difference bet. the Deore is not that much, I would get the Deore.
Of course, you can sell it and get your self a roadbike. $500 seems good. You would only need to spend about $250-350 more to get a decent road bike.:)
ATB bikes are designed differently when they have a shock absorbing front
fork. If you look at it from the side you will see a large space between the
bottom of the headset and the tire that is present so the fork can move up
and down. Placing a 'standard' fork in there would drop the front end of the
bike down several inches, and perhaps change the riding character. Someone
may make such a conversion fork but it would be an unusual change. The most efficient change would be tires only. Anything else window dressing.
Most economical approach would be a new hybrid or road bike. Steve
If you do replace thr front fork with a rigid fork, you need to be aware of the geometry changes as others have mentioned. Their are rigid forks out there that are suspension corrected and you'll want to get one of those. Check out this page (http://www.bikeman.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BOS&Category_Code=COMPFKMTNR) for some ideas. BTW, personally, I'd go with a steel rigid fork over aluminum... of course carbon would be my favourite if I had the money.
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