So, my Raleigh 20 is gradually dissolving, in not terribly surprising ways. The BB is getting a bit tired, and a spoke let go in the rear wheel last week (30 year old wheels on bikes that don't get lots of love tend to do that). I'm hardly ever having to fold it, so I'm wondering about using a different bike for the duties it currently does, and really doing it up. The pic at the bottom is the bike as it stands. I'm thinking wheels, brakes, gears, cranks and BB at minimum, and I'd like not to spend more than £300. Here are my thoughts:

Frame - powder coat black. The paint is a bit iffy, and I rather like the idea of a matt black and red rat-rod look. Does anyone know how much powdercoating costs in the UK?

BB - this is the tricky one. Leaving the threads standard means definitely buying Phil Wood cups, and probably very soon a BB as well, the Shimano ones being increasingly hard to find. I also have had no luck finding a plastic BB. If I get the shell re-threaded to 24 tpi, should I also get it faced down to standard width? I need to find out how much this would cost.

Cranks - free. My bike dealings mean that there's always a set of cranks laying around. I don't think 170's are going to cause me any great difficulty.

Wheels - ideal woud be Shimano Nexus 8. I can pick one of those up for £80 or so, but then I'd also need to spring for fitting kit, shifter etc. I'm going to start watching everything on eBay with a Nexus 7 or 8, in hopes that I can pick up a complete bike for more like £50 or 60, strip it out, and sell the rest of the bike to mitigate. I'd then build it up into 406 rims. Ideally, I'd like something like the Velocity Deep V, but in 406, and in red, but I've not found anything yet. Red anodised BMX rims are easy to get, but I'm wondering how well they'd work with something like Stelvios? Anyone know?

Seat - I can pick up a 400 mm alloy post for about £15, and I'd like to top that off with a sprung Brooks

Brakes - SJS cycles have a long reach dual pivot set which, in combination with Kool Stop Salmons and alloy rims, ought to improve the braking so much that I'll have to watch for going over the bars!

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk//images/products/73alhonga_xl.jpg

Rack - I hate Pletscher racks. I sometimes do hang stuff on the side of this, and I'm not keen on having my panniers eaten by my wheels. Anyone know where to get a good 20" rack, or how to modify one?

Bars/Stem - I'm tempted to stay with the standard bars/stem, but then again, I could do with a little more rise (I'm a big chap). Talk to me about the stem options?

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a322/Samuelw72/P6040010.jpg

I'm currently doing the Raleigh 20 full-out upgrade thing. I actually never rode on a Raleigh 20. The moment I bought my Raleigh 20, I started dismantling it. I got rid of the tires and wheels (kept the SA Hub though, just in case).

The R20 originally came with 406mm wheels, I decided to go out and buy some 451mm wheels (obviously, a bit taller, not by that much, but you can see a small difference). There is plenty of clearance under the R20 frame for them. So no need for any long-reach calipers, I can use regular brake calipers. So the wheels I got were laced with Shimano Deore XT hubs, front and rear. I had to cold set the rear spacing to 135mm. I put in a 9-speed Shimano HG cog. My wheels are fully laced and functional. After the re-spacing I noticed that the chainstay was rubbing with the chain and didn't have enough clearance, so I had to weld a space on the wheel to give it the needed clearance.

For the front fork, after a lot of thought, I decided to not use it. I installed a Tange Levine (Old School) headset that I had lying around and quickly went to work on finding a suitable fork. I bought a suspension fork (A Suntour M2000) from the internet. It measured 8.25" and was a few millimeters short of working out for me. I thought of cutting the headtube a few millimeters, but voted against it. Instead, I found an old fork I had lying around on a 60 CM Peugeot frame that fit PERFECTLY with that headset. I am in the process of shortening the fork, since it is a fork designed for 27" tires. It also has the exact same rake as the original Raleigh 20 fork. I don't know if that's a good thing or not.

For the seat post, I believe 28.9mm mountain bike seatposts will fit. I'm still thinking of using the original one, not sure if it'll be long enough.

As for the bottom bracket. I completely removed everything from it, cups, spindle, etc... I put the components in a bag and am debating on what to do now. I think the best route for me is the UN72 + Phil Wood retaining rings. I don't want to do anything drastic such as re-threading. I just picked up a UN72 on eBay for ~$32 shipping included. All I need now are those Phil Wood retaining rings. They are impossible to find in Canada. Will have to e-mail the company and see what they say. I need the bottom bracket issue resolved, get my forks shortened, add some braze-ons + cable routes and then paint the thing. I can predict that the whole project for me will be finished by next spring for sure.

So far, I must have spent close to $400 CDN (about $398 US or so) and am not even close to being finished!!! But at the end, I'm sure I'll have something that is unique.

Good luck, and don't hesitate to post up any questions you might have! It's good to exchange information with people going through the same issues.

Actually, 20's came with 451's to begin with. Sounds like a cool project, I've not seen many derailleur geared 20 upgrades.

Actually, 20's came with 451's to begin with. Sounds like a cool project, I've not seen many derailleur geared 20 upgrades.

R20s in North America came with 406mm, in the UK they came with 451's... A lot of the R20 projects I've seen use geared hubs, and at first was considering a geared hub, BUT, in order to keep costs lower (decent geared hubs can cost a lot), I decided on a derailleur system with the added benefit that if it breaks down, I can fix it/replace it easily anywhere I am.

True, that's a major benefit. Since mine gets ridden pretty much exclusively to the station, and then across London at the other end, I'm less concerned about that - I'm not likely to start touring on my 20! I'd be tempted to build with 451s too, if I could find decent rims at sensible prices here.

Just found a source for red Velocity Aeroheat rims at £10 a pop. Things are looking up.....

True, that's a major benefit. Since mine gets ridden pretty much exclusively to the station, and then across London at the other end, I'm less concerned about that - I'm not likely to start touring on my 20! I'd be tempted to build with 451s too, if I could find decent rims at sensible prices here.

Actually, it was the other way around for me. I had a hard time finding 406 rims, and ended up going with 451s. I even bought a set of Schwalbe Marathon Slicks in 406mm sizing which I will be putting up for grabs soon on eBay.

I plan on bringing my R20 with me to Cuba when I go there yearly, and want to be totally self reliant if I ever break down, for that 406 would have been a better choice for rims, because tires are probably easier to find.

Will you be documenting your build-up? I think I should take some pictures when I'm still in the BEFORE stage, just for documentation purposes.

But 406 is the standard BMX size - should be incredibly easy to find. I probably will document, yes.

But 406 is the standard BMX size - should be incredibly easy to find. I probably will document, yes.

You would think so, but not in a narrow size. The big fat rims, sure no problem, but if you decide to put thinner racing tires, it's not easy. I tried EVERYWHERE in Montreal, and couldn't find anything until I lucked out on 451mm rims, laced to Shimano Deore XT hubs with Primo Comet tires.

Just found a source for red Velocity Aeroheat rims at £10 a pop. Things are looking up.....

Care to say where this source is? Sounds excellent!

It is here:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12202

It's a special offer, so get in there now - 1/2 price. So, talk to me about building wheels on these rims. Are tyres really going to be a problem? What about spoke count? They're 48 hole, but I can build with less spokes....right?

Frame - powder coat black. The paint is a bit iffy, and I rather like the idea of a matt black and red rat-rod look. Does anyone know how much powdercoating costs in the UK?

Shouldn't be more than about £100 to get it coated. Somewhere that routinely does cycles or motorcycle parts is preferable as they'll have more experience and less likely to shotblast your steel to drinks-can thinness. I don't have a name for you - i got mine repainted by the awesome Dave Yates but this was a paint deal and not matt. It cost about £120 but was excellent and included v-brake brazeons, a custom colour mix, shipping, decals and lots of clear lacquer.


If I get the shell re-threaded to 24 tpi, should I also get it faced down to standard width?
Probably a good idea - no idea on costs - I think this is a 'nice thing if you have your own workshop or a friendly local machine shop' thing but not something most local bike shops would want to get behind.

Red anodised BMX rims are easy to get, but I'm wondering how well they'd work with something like Stelvios? Anyone know?
When I first ran my twenty with a fixed suicide hub - the classicly dodgy glued sprocket - it was a standard BMX rear wheelset with a 1 3/4" rim, to which fitting a Continental Grand Prix was not exactly perfect. It sort of worked but I'd say with a skinny like a Stelvio or Grand Prix you really need to be looking at 1" or 1 1/4"

Brakes - SJS cycles have a long reach dual pivot set which, in combination with Kool Stop Salmons and alloy rims, ought to improve the braking so much that I'll have to watch for going over the bars!
They look nice - an alternative is to fabricate extenders or (for the rear) move the bridge down the 22mm it needs to go to fit the 406 wheels. Do that, and you could choose any nice roadie caliper you can which would look mondo elegant compared to long reach calipers. Just my thought. Stevegor on this forum has a lovely fix for front forks whereby you insert a wee bit of tube under the crown with 4 holes drilled - you feed the original bolt through the top two to keep it in position and then essentially have a extension that decends to the required length wherein you bolt a smaller neater caliper that fits 'just so'. Search out some close ups on his Flickr pages if that doesn't make sense...

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1229347201&size=l


Rack - I hate Pletscher racks
How come? I like their shape and non 'weldedtogetherness'

Bars/Stem - I'm tempted to stay with the standard bars/stem, but then again, I could do with a little more rise (I'm a big chap). Talk to me about the stem options?
Any 1" quill will fit though options are limited. My 1st iteration had an adjustable angle Kalloy stem which was really helpful to have when dialling in a good riding setup. Later on, I substituted for a lighter 45° KF riser. You can get quill-to-ahead adapters that give you access to a larger range of stems, but the usual problem with Twentys is getting the bars high enough. A lot of people have gone the Ahead route with custom spacers (look up the 'Tarik' device' or any of Jur's excellent posts on the matter) but I'm a short arse (5'5") and don't ride in the 'district nurse' upright style, so have never really needed to worry too much about bar height.


Huw :)

I hate Pletscher racks for their Don'tKeepthePanniersOutoftheWheelness. They need something aft of the main strut to do that. They're fine for my racktop case, but not good for the fabric briefcase pannier I carry my raingear in.

I'm thinking that, tyre-wise, perhaps Big Apples are the way to go. That way I can choose wide rims, no problem.

Well, having got a lot of perspective since i finished my 20 build... If i were to do it again i'd keep it even more cheap, standardized and bomb proof. To wit:

No other hub other than SA AW unless i was planning to spend a lot/tour a lot or some such.
As a mechanic i see all other hubs giving more trouble than i find acceptable especially as the newer units are so costly.

406 for sure, skinny tires on either 20 size might not be exactly comfortable, just check out Sheldon' Browns' hot rod. So Big apples for me. But if i were to go the Skinny route i'd definately get a Brooks Flyer and ergonomic handlebar and the best bar tape or better yet foam.

Brakes, anything good and that you like, the ones in the pic looked nice! What Littlepixel says makes sense! Also there is always the option of Sheldon's drop bolt solution, with that you can probably use a lot of different side pull brakes, perhaps get some really nice old ones of a really good racer.

The reason why i advocate cheap and bomb proof is that the 20 might well be with you for 20 years. I notice if i drop a lot of money on a bike i get paranoid. Theft and all. I want i bike that performs great yet does not look flashy or costs me a bundle to replace in the unfortunate event of theft.

But of course YYMW depending on use and area.

BB, definately the Kinex, you are likely looking at a $100 to $ 150 saving right there..

I'm not yet familiar with the Kinex, but I'm already liking what you're telling me about it! What is it, and where can it be found?

Is this the creature we're talking about? I do hope so, because I can get those easily, ordered from my LBS.

http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/public/index.php/product/cycle_bottom_brackets/kinex/BBK51.html

Yes i think that is it. I had assumed that you were familiar with my page on my Twenty and the modifications i did. In the page i detail the whole Kinex thing. Just check out my sig. Also i have chanced my stance on the FAG VS Kinex BB. The Kinex is a fine product and cheap! Just make sure you get the right length.

I really wouldn't mess with BB shell before trying the Kinex. Worse case scenario: it doesn't work for you and you are out 13 pounds. Then you can still try a different approach.

Ok, so what length do I need? I've ordered my rims, only to realise that they're 48 hole, and of course, a Nexus is 36 hole. The wheelbuilding gods are divided, but there's a strong representation for the "No! Don't try to do it!" school of thought on building a wheel with 36 spokes on 48 holes.

If it was me I would make them 24 spoke wheels. Skip every other hole in the rim and every third hole in the hub. I have a very early Bike Friday Pocket Rocket with 24 spoke rims/wheels and 36 spoke hubs. Got it in 93/94 and still working on the original wheels. No spoke breakage so far and I am in the 200 lb range. The advantage of 24 spokes is they are all the same size. Roger

I'm currently around 240, though it's coming off really fast, so by the time I have the build kit together, I might be more in that range. It's that, or unmatched rims.

In other news, I'm doin' this all wrong. Yesterday, I forgot to watch the end of an auction, and missed a complete bike, Nexus 7 equipped, for £41 just down the road. Large saving, out the window.

And if powder coat really costs £100, then I'll be rattlecanning my bike. I'm not springing that kind of money for a matt black finish, powder coat OUGHT to be more in the £40 range.

edit

- this is the tricky one. Leaving the threads standard means definitely buying Phil Wood cups, and probably very soon a BB as well, the Shimano ones being increasingly hard to find. I also have had no luck finding a plastic BB. If I get the shell re-threaded to 24 tpi, should I also get it faced down to standard width? I need to find out how much this would cost.

facing might be more problematic than you think. i modded my R20 with a lot of help from a friendly mechanic. after opening the bottom bracket and starting to rethread it, the middle of the BB is thicker than the outside, meaning the threading tool couldn't thread all the way in enough for the facing tool. we ended up putting the old BB back in.

Cranks - free. My bike dealings mean that there's always a set of cranks laying around. I don't think 170's are going to cause me any great difficulty.

the stock cranks are 165s and there isn't much clearance. if you never pedal while cornering (even around slight bends), you'll be fine.
the best thing i did was to make a new fork. the old fork was a little bent anyway. i got a 7 degree sloping cyclocross crown, fork blades, dropouts w/eyelets, 270mm steerer tube, and canti bosses from novacycles.com. around $80. the sloping crown means you don't have to rake the blades, and i got plug-in dropouts=no filing.

I definitely don't have the chops to make my own fork. I've actually got a 170 crank on one side (long story) and it causes me no problems whatever, so I'm not worried about that, but thankyou. I think I'm going to try the Kinex BB solution.

And if powder coat really costs £100, then I'll be rattlecanning my bike.
I said 'should cost less than...' :)
You could save by doing your own stripping; Powder coat is less fussy and you don't really need to totally get it down to bare metal to recoat like you would with paint, though the better the strip job the better the final coating. Problem with stipping yourself is stopping it rusting in the gap between stripping and getting it coated. and in my experience the undercoat on a Twenty takes a fair bit of sweat and tears to get off.

But you may well find a coatings place that's cheap. I was just quoting the upper scale beyond which you really shouldn't have to pay.

Hmmm. Reading v1nce's page, it looks like I need a 137mm spindle on my BB - the biggest I can find over here is 131. Double hmmm. Perhaps the fact that I'm going to be running a converted road crank will help? I can run the ring on the outside, and hack the chainline out a bit more that way.

Hmmm. Reading v1nce's page, it looks like I need a 137mm spindle on my BB - the biggest I can find over here is 131. Double hmmm. Perhaps the fact that I'm going to be running a converted road crank will help? I can run the ring on the outside, and hack the chainline out a bit more that way.

I found an UN72 on eBay a few days ago - 73mm shell width. Spindle length is 113mm, and was told that 113mm is a good length. Will be using it with Phil Wood retaining rings.

If you're 240-250, I would strongly recommend that you run at least 32 spokes. On my Dahon folding bike I have I believe 24 spokes, and broke a few, and I'm only 210. This time, for my R20 project, I bought wheels with 32 spokes, and ideally was looking for 36 spokes, but none were available. As long as you're not jumping off curbs and doing stunts with it, I think 32 would be fine. If you do decided on 24, make sure you get real high quality spokes.

Sammyboy,

As LittlePixel mentioned about the front brake extension, check www.flickr.com/photos/stevegor
It fits nicely into the fork and to me it looks ok. For the rear brake I used Sheldon's dropbolt idea, but I'm considering making a bridge and moving it down to suit the 451 rim and changing the road pads for a good quality v-brake type.

As for powdercoating, over here in Oz, the Wasp cost about $60au, the colour is black onyx. it has a real cool green metallic fleck which catches the sunlight.......

I'm thinking that since I already sprung for the rims, I'll build the rear at 24 spokes, the front at 48. Should the rear cause problems, I'll simply rebuild on a new rim with 36 spokes, and it'll only have cost me spokes, since I've already paid for the rims. Should it work fine, then I'll have the bike looking like I envisaged, and have saved £25 for another rim. One way or another, I win.

I am not sure what spindle length you need. It is a factor of your crank spider width and how deep it recesses (look at the back of the axle hole of the crank).

As for wheels, i dunno man. But personally i'd never cut corners on wheels. well build 20 inch wheels could last you for 20 years! What is the point of building odd spoke count wheels just to save 25 quid (though good rims can be a had for quite a bit less i think!) on a mode of transportation..

Remember the old adage "Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten". Just put the 44 rim on e-bay. To myself it seems madness to build a back wheel at 24. To what gain? Save a few quid and a a few grams and end up with a much weaker wheel (and Essential component) that could very well warp or fail..

I don't make all that much cash, like 9 Euro's an hour. But even for me that means 3 hours for real nice rims, seems like a bargain to me.

I'm thinking that since I already sprung for the rims, I'll build the rear at 24 spokes, the front at 48. Should the rear cause problems, I'll simply rebuild on a new rim with 36 spokes, and it'll only have cost me spokes, since I've already paid for the rims. Should it work fine, then I'll have the bike looking like I envisaged, and have saved £25 for another rim. One way or another, I win.

I'm no wheel smith Sammyboy, but as I understand it you're quite a big lad. Rear wheels take a lot of hammer anyway and also transmit the power you blast into them. I just have a bad feeling about twenty four spokes in a rear wheel when you are the engine mate... I broke five spokes in my merc rear wheel and I only weigh 170 pounds. It has 28 spokes by the way.

:)

Indeed 20 inch wheels are strong but spoke count is real important, especially if you are a large feller. I never see the point of building any wheel with less than 36 (unles you are a pro racer) no matter what size.

Listen, the worst that could happen is, I break 5 spokes, and have to build a new wheel, which means buying another rim? If I don't try the 24, that's what I have to do anyway. All I have to lose is a set of spokes. That, to me, is not a big risk.

Listen, the worst that could happen is, I break 5 spokes, and have to build a new wheel, which means buying another rim? If I don't try the 24, that's what I have to do anyway. All I have to lose is a set of spokes. That, to me, is not a big risk.

Well, a set of spokes wasted, perhaps walking back home with your bike. Oh right, it's a folding bike, so no problem there, you can take the bus or the subway.

You're asking for the ultimate Raleigh 20 upgrade recipe, but... you're going at it the wrong way, IMHO. Go for quality and intelligent choices. Building up a 36 spoke count hub on a 48 spoke count wheel using only 24 spokes is pure madness personally. Do it right, or don't bother, in the end you'll end up re-doing it properly, AND you will have spent more than simply going the proper route. You do realize that you'll have 24 little openings in your rims from the unused spokes where water and dirt can infiltrate your wheel? That alone would bother me and make me want to do it properly.

But, if that's your design philosphy there is nothing wrong in using what is available and making the best of what you have without spending too much, but to me, that is not going down the road to the ultimate Raleigh 20.

In any case, at least it seems like you're having fun out of this whole build, and that makes it all worth it.

Well, a set of spokes wasted, perhaps walking back home with your bike. Oh right, it's a folding bike, so no problem there, you can take the bus or the subway.

You're asking for the ultimate Raleigh 20 upgrade recipe, but... you're going at it the wrong way, IMHO. Go for quality and intelligent choices. Building up a 36 spoke count hub on a 48 spoke count wheel using only 24 spokes is pure madness personally. Do it right, or don't bother, in the end you'll end up re-doing it properly, AND you will have spent more than simply going the proper route. You do realize that you'll have 24 little openings in your rims from the unused spokes where water and dirt can infiltrate your wheel? That alone would bother me and make me want to do it properly.

Well, consider this:

The way a wheel is suspended by the spokes, believe it or not, is by standing on the bottom spokes exactly like an old wooden-spoked wagon wheel. (I know it sounds weird but it's the truth.) This directly means that only spokes at or near the bottom are doing any supporting work extra to the normal job of keeping the wheel under tension.

Now the more spokes there are, the more that load is spread around between spokes that are near the bottom. That means the spokes can have less tension on them to avoid them going slack when they are BDC. With less spokes, you therefore need higher tension. Spokes going slack at BDC is why they break.

So where is this argument going? Well the spacing of the spokes at the rim is what counts. If you consider a 700c wheel and a 406 wheel, 24 spokes for a 406 wheel equates to 36.7 spokes on a 700c wheel. Nobody is going to say a 36 spoked 700c wheel is weak.

So neither is a 24-spoked 406 wheel.

As for unused spoke holes, cover these with some quality tape to exclude water and dirt.

Thanks for the informative post... I currently run 32 spokes on my Raleigh 20, FRONT/REAR, ideally was looking for 36 spokes, but had a hard time finding any that were already built. I guess with 32 spokes, I should be bomb-proof!

36 spokes then on the original Raleigh 20 wheels must have been pure overkill then! Probably dictated by the fact that the AW hub didn't come in anything less than 36 spoke holes. (since the majority of applications for the AW hub was most likely aimed at the larger wheel diameters).

Actually mine came with 28 holes F and R. (Sorry I don't mean to say you're wrong with every post, just providing more info. :) )

I should really qualify. I'm not really building the ultimate 20 upgrade - that would involve a Rohloff, and Schlumpf mountain drive, special front and rear racks etc etc. I'm upgrading to a really capable city bike that I'll love to ride, AND to look at, and doing it as cheaply as I can. The real reason for doing an odd spoke count is not to save £20 for a rim, it's more because I really like the idea of how it's going to look with deep section red rims. I know that's a shallow reason, but if it breaks spokes, I'll give up and spring for a new rim, and that'll be fine. If it works, I'll have the bike just how I want it, and that's kinda important. Had I realised sooner that they were 48 hole rims, I probably wouldn't have bought them, but now I've got them, I'm kinda married to the idea. Feel free to call me a fool!:)

Anyway, costs could be:

BB - £13
Cranks - Free
Rims - £20
Spokes - not sure yet
Rear hub - £40, if I'd just bid on that damn bike, plus I could sell the other parts
Front hub - £20
Repaint - £40 max
Saddle - £38
Seat Post - £15
Brakes - £20
Salmon Pads - £20
Tyres - £30 (probably Stelvios)
Chain - £10
Total - £256 plus whatever the spokes cost.

That's pretty much a hundred quid cheaper than a Merc for something with a wider gear range, better suited to a tall man, superior in most ways, albeit not the fold, but it folds well enough. Plus it has the advantage of being precisely the bike I want it to be. I think I'll be happy!

I can well understand the urge to experiment and do things differently. I did that with my zany decision to lubricate the SRF-3 hub with oil instead of grease. And like Sammyboy, if it falls apart, I'll just sort it next time. At worst the costs are affordable though it might end up inconvenient.

Well, of course do whatever you like, after all it is your bike! But to be sure i am a true scrounger and try to build my bikes as cheap as i can without sacrificing quality and especially durability.

Anyway this podcast has some really cool info, including about low spoke count hubs (rather than rims)

http://sheldonbrown.com/podcasts/grantpetersen.mp3

If you consider a 700c wheel and a 406 wheel, 24 spokes for a 406 wheel equates to 36.7 spokes on a 700c wheel. Nobody is going to say a 36 spoked 700c wheel is weak.

I should say my Twenty is running just 16 spokes in a 32h rim on the rear at the moment and it seems pretty darn solid. Maybe I'm insane. Or not. Ok so I only weigh 140/145 lbs but it's done loads of miles, loads of kerb jumps and shows no signs of failure yet. And it looks friggin cool to boot. good luck with the math[s] to make the hub and spoke combo fit - I tried similar with my brompton rear while waiting to get my new rims (still waiting for them :() and it's doable but it might make your brain ache

http://www.littlepixel.info/twenty/r20_180707.jpg

I was on a long ride this weekend and rode through a massive pothole with my Swift. I checked the wheels and there is not the slightest sign that the wheels (16 spoke F, 28 spoke R) went out of true. :)

It must be said that a 24 spoke rear and a 48 spoke front is an unusual combination, but hey, who wants to be like everyone else!

I'm thinking that since I already sprung for the rims, I'll build the rear at 24 spokes, the front at 48. Should the rear cause problems, I'll simply rebuild on a new rim with 36 spokes, and it'll only have cost me spokes, since I've already paid for the rims. Should it work fine, then I'll have the bike looking like I envisaged, and have saved £25 for another rim. One way or another, I win.

Can I ask why you'll build the rear which carries about 65% of the weight AND transmission forces with 24 spokes, when you'll be building the front which has a much lighter job with 50% more spokes?

There may be a reason that I haven't thought of. On Bromptons for example, they use heavier gauge spokes on the rear wheel I believe. I snapped two of mine on the Merc while accelerating hard.

http://www.littlepixel.info/twenty/r20_180707.jpg


I love the look of your Twenty Pixel. The way you photographed it ain't bad either. What's with the shroud on the front wheel?

I was on a long ride this weekend and rode through a massive pothole with my Swift. I checked the wheels and there is not the slightest sign that the wheels (16 spoke F, 28 spoke R) went out of true. :)


Long ride in preparation for the Cyclismo ride prior to the start of the Suntour in Bendigo?? ;)

I love the look of your Twenty Pixel.
Thanks! I'm such a pimp for her...

The way you photographed it ain't bad either.
That's out on our flat roof - Alexandra Palace is just to the left of the shot.
It's a digi shot but I did some post in Photoshop with Gradient maps to colour it more akin to something that might have been taken in the mid-seventies and faded a little. That is my folly.


What's with the shroud on the front wheel?
It's a carbon HED rim with bladed spokes. I got it second hand from a recumbent rider in Seattle for 'not an awful lot compared to new prices' It was actually a full wheelset but I couldn't use the rear as the hub was too wide, and the spokes thread the other way round (nipples attached at the hub) so there was no easy way to swap in a track hub. So I sold it and almost made my money back to some minibike enthusiast in Japan. Talk about well travelled componentry!
It's a nice showy wheel but the carbon is hollow and acts a bit like a drum skin so it's a bit noisy. Nice hub though - fast!

That's out on our flat roof - Alexandra Palace is just to the left of the shot.


Perched up on the parapet like that, I'd be scared a gust blew up and my pride and joy fell over the edge.

It's a fixie so the pedals/cranks are very sold as long as the rear tyre is too... ;)

Sammyboy, my 20 upgrading has almost come to an end :-) This weekend I sorted out my BB. This is what I've done. I have retained the original cups. I hacksawed about 3mm of the drive side of the BB shell so it's now 73mm wide. It took some nerve, but actually it wasn't too difficult. The steel is pretty soft. I used a brand new hacksaw blade. I then cleaned it up with a metal file. I used a cup removing tool made from a bolt, nut and several washers (look on Sheldons site), and some socket wrenches to drive the drive side cup fully in, using it to cut more threads into shell. I did this carefully, screwing it in a little, then back, then a bit more etc. I periodically removed it altogether and cleaned the thread with a wire brush and wd40. Eventually it went in enough to be flush with the new edge of the BB shell.

I got new 1/4" balls (;-) from eBay and a Specialized 7NL axle. This would be the rare bit to find. The axle now fits fine. I have a Sugino Maxy 57 T 165mm crankset that came all the way from Japan (via eBay)! It seems to work fine. I have an almost perfect chainline with a 13T freewheel on a BMX flipflop hub. That will result in a fast 81.9" single gear, but my roads are flat.

I don't know how I lived without eBay!

Thanks! I'm such a pimp for her...

It's a carbon HED rim with bladed spokes. I got it second hand from a recumbent rider in Seattle for 'not an awful lot compared to new prices' It was actually a full wheelset but I couldn't use the rear as the hub was too wide, and the spokes thread the other way round (nipples attached at the hub) so there was no easy way to swap in a track hub. So I sold it and almost made my money back to some minibike enthusiast in Japan. Talk about well travelled componentry!
It's a nice showy wheel but the carbon is hollow and acts a bit like a drum skin so it's a bit noisy. Nice hub though - fast!


L.P.
You should hear a pleathora of carbon wheels in a bike race......WHRRRRRRR WHRRRRRR....you certainly know when they're going to attack :eek: