View Full Version : I see a lot about the Fenix L2D but
biffstephens
10-06-07, 12:35 PM
I was wanting something shorter and thicker....
Something like the Fenix Digital P2D....Does the CR123A battery make it not as attractive as an option?
Would something like this work well for that type of light?
http://www.batteryjunction.com/4parc390reli.html
I am looking to mount this on my helmet...
I was wanting something shorter and thicker....
Something like the Fenix Digital P2D....Does the CR123A battery make it not as attractive as an option?
Would something like this work well for that type of light?
http://www.batteryjunction.com/4parc390reli.html
I am looking to mount this on my helmet...
Probably go with a P3D CE. Much better run time. I have the L2D CE strapped to my helmet and it is much longer. So go with the P3D CE.
And stay away from Tenergy's. I had them, and want to get rid of them. You interested? I have two chargers, and two RCR123A's. The other three sets were spoiled.
Buy mine from me. Or go with 'AW'. They are the best in the business. Pricier, but you get what you pay for. Definitely.
varuscelli
10-06-07, 04:43 PM
I was wanting something shorter and thicker....
Something like the Fenix Digital P2D....Does the CR123A battery make it not as attractive as an option?
The battery issue certainly seems to be part of it (cost/availability). But quite a few of the folks who use flashlights that run off CR123A often seem to buy batteries in bulk, which would be the way to go if you're not using the RCR123A rechargeables. Buying in bulk off the internet is certainly one way to keep the costs down, but if you're a frequent night rider and not using rechargeables, it seems like something that would create a lot of batteries that just need to be thrown away. And I'm not sure how the current technology for RCR123A compares to AA rechargeable technology. I get the impression it's not nearly as . . . hmmm . . . sophisticated or reliable? I dunno. I'm kind of sketchy on the real details since I'm pretty much a AA rechargeable user for the last handful of years. ;)
But I've been tempted by the P2D and P3D myself...
Zero_Enigma
10-06-07, 05:03 PM
Hint: If you got friends in the military CR123's are easier to aquire off buddies if they ask for a couple extra from time to time from the storage guys. You know 'opps sorry Roy I let the light on over night while looking at glossly magazines again. Could I get some fresh ones? Mine are dead" ;)
Also you can aquire cheap bulk cells from www.dealextreme.com which has a good reputation online at Candlepowerforums on the web. Those guys at that forum are light geardos. There is a 'pass around deals area' and such as well. Buy a small bulk amount like 10cells (if you use the P3D then you'll have 5 refills. P2D will have 10 refills) which will probably cost you like $6 (don't quote me) USD I think. CR123's suppositly have a 10yr shelf life if you buy the good brands (ie. Energizer/Duracell/Surefire. I think Surefire is just rebranded Energizer or Duracell). Buying cheap cells also means possible less run time and from what I have read somewhere before that the cheap cells have 'higher internal resistance' if my memoryi s correct which I think means they run a bit hotter (not brightness but heat). Tho your setup should be get yourself a RCR123 charger and batteries ( www.Fenix-Store.com with free S/H) then aquire some cheap CR123's else where like DealExtreme which has free S/H as well. You keep a spare set of CR123 on you and use the RCR123's daily. You will eventually forget or run out of power on your RCR123's and be thankful you have your spare CR123's to get you home so you can charge your RCR123s.
If you can't afford a two set of RCR123's then just get one set for now then buy another later. If you go with a P2D a spare set of CR123's will give you two uses instead of one use like the P3D that uses two cells. You'll have to figure out how long you'll be riding to and from time wise then add another 30-60mins 'oh sh--' factor if you have a flat/mechanial issue or have to take another route then factor in your spare cells runtime for your total out in the field runtime.
Zero_Enigma
10-06-07, 05:07 PM
Take a measuring tape and measure out the P3D and find something in the home that size or get some toilet paper roll (used) and check how the length looks to you on the helmet. The P3D is just stretching the look of the helmet already. P2D is just the right size but less run time. I tend to run my stuff at high all the time so I look at that figure over the dimming for longer run times as I often hammer when I ride.
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