Road Cycling - Computer

If this has been asked before, just point me to the thread (sorry in advance)

What functions should I look for in a bike computer, I do want to know as much as I can about my riding style and how to better it.

I have noticed some people talking about "wireless" are they any better:confused:



:thumbup:

some of the functions i found important are a trip timer, trip distance, total odometer, speed, max speed, and average speed... most mid class computers you can get have all of these... another good thing to have is candence... my computer don't have it but i'm finding wanting it...

I think the most important function is cadence...and that generally limits the computers out there. I try and use a constant cadence of 82-84 and shift gears to keep that rate (except during sprints obviously).

Auto stop is also kind of nice if accuracy is important.
If you're going to be doing a bunch of club rides...you want an odometer function that's easy to read so you can follow the cue sheets.

I've always had good luck with Cateye computers. Had a Vetta I really liked, but it broke and they basically wouldn't respond to emails, calls or letters asking for support. So, I replaced it with a Cateye.

Hope this helps

Ken

Originally posted by Code Monkey
some of the functions i found important are a trip timer, trip distance, total odometer, speed, max speed, and average speed... most mid class computers you can get have all of these... another good thing to have is candence... my computer don't have it but i'm finding wanting it...

I have a Trek Fusion and it has all those features, plus it is relatively small and a clean look.

It has current speed in the middle and you can display two other functions, one at the top and one at the bottom. I normally display Trip Time at the top and Trip Distance at the bottom. For $30 it was well worth the price. Installation was a snap.

When I first got it, I didn't care about cadence, but now I am wondering it might help. The only thing I don't like is the extra wires.

If I upgrade to a 'puter with cadence, it will be wireless.

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/large_photo.cfm?SKU=12090&Store=Bike

There really isn't much extra wiring for cadence. The wire has to run by where the cadence sensor and magnet generally are placed to get near the rear hub where the main sensor is going to be. So, the only extra wire is a few inches long. The wire is a little thicker obviously, but what difference does it make?

Certainly a wireless would work, but in some ways just seems to be a bother to have to worry about extra batteries for the transmitter function...but...I haven't used one so it may not be all that bad.

...ken

I used an Avocet. Small, simple and cheap. I could never see myself using many features other than MPH and distance.

The only wireless cadence system I've seen is the new Vetta computer but the sender and receiver units look mighty big and bulky. The other option if you are running modern Shimano shifters is to use the FlightDeck with the wireless kit which doesn't use a cadence sensor at all. It back-calculates cadence based on knowledge of your gearing and wheelspeed. Of course this means you can be coasting downhill with your pedals still and have the computer claiming your cadence is 120RPM. :D

In addition to the above, you might want to also look at heart rate. Probably the best option with heart rate is to attach a standard watch-style HRM on the other side of your stem from your main computer.

I have a Polar HRM that I use now, it keeps my from going over my 70% max and has helped me alot, I just want a good computer and I think I may buy a catseye

Defintely get cadence. You may not think you need it now, but if you get at all serious, you'll wish you had it. Cadence and HR are not the same (though they do work together). Also, a wireless cadence transmitter may be too big to fit between the cranks and the stays if the bike is a racing bike.

I've used cadence and I also have the Vetta V100 with wireless Cadence and wireless speed and the sender is not that much bigger than other wireless senders... The V100's trick is that you can buy the wired version and switch to wireless later.

I love the wireless cadence because you don't have to run a wire to the rear wheel and the wires make it harder to clean the bike.

I do have one bug with the V100. I bought one of the early ones and it leaked water in a heavy rain and the sensor died. Also don't pull the tie wraps too tight or you can break off the tabs on the sensor.

I got a replacement sensor and just to be safe I wrapped the whole unit in electrical tape before mounting it on the fork. It is working OK now.

BTW the V100 has all the expected stuff: Cadence, speed, ave, max, ride time, actual time, auto off, lube-time, clock, temperature...

There is also a V100 A with an altimeter and there is a V100HR. My view is the V100A might be worth it but the V100HR, I would just attach a watch using the watch band double-back trick and stock the watch on my bars... That way I don't have to worry if I use Polar, Sigma, or other HRM... And I can use my HRM when I run or swim.

I noticed one from the link by late (thanks) that the Protage 8.0 has a great big display, which I like and I think thats what I will look for first with cadence

The largest improvement in my cycling has come since I installed a computer with the cadence feature. In fact, whenever I am on a club ride, I usually switch the computer so that I am watching my distance and cadence. Speed is irrelevant. I even find that watching my speed actually slows me down sometimes, particularly when riding with a group that is stronger than I am. I'm able to hang with them a LOT longer when I don't know how fast we're going.

Chip,

I gotta agree with you. I have my main display on cadence...and I'll flip around between distance, time and average speed just to see how I'm doing.
BTW, where do you ride in Lauderdale? I'm in Delray and getting kind of frustrated with the poor riding down here in South Florida.

...ken

I, too, think it is important to know your cadence, but don't think it's neccessary to buy a cadence computer.

I wanted to see my cadence, so I took my Cateye OS 1.1 and installed the Cateye Astrale for the cadence function. It was great at first, to see my cadence, but I found that after a week of riding I stopped checking my cadence 'cuz I had a pretty good feel for what my cadence was and checked my candence less and less. Since I liked the OS 1.1 better, I took the Astrale off and put the OS 1.1 back on.

So, if you don't want to be limited to computers with cadence, just bike with someone who has cadence on their computer and match their pedaling stroke as much as posible and ask them what their cadence reading is. You should be able to then feel your cadence from there.

Eagle,

I can judge my cadence pretty well on standard rides. Where I use it is when I'm on a longer ride or a century and pulling. I want to keep my cadence at a certain level so as not to burn out. I then shift to stay at that level.
But...to each his/her own...you gotta have the stuff on your bike that you like.

Ken

Originally posted by Ken S

you gotta have the stuff on your bike that you like.


Amen to that! It's very personal and you gotta do what works for you.

Thanks for all the good advice, I use a stationary bike at home and go by the rpm to keep my cadence, could I do this with a bike computer :confused: or is that the same thing on a stationary bike (rpm=cadence)

Cadence = pedal RPMs. Your stationary *probably* uses RPMs as revolutions of the front tire, a rough alternative to speed/distance. Some posts in this thread have made it sound like the cadence sensor mounts to the rear wheel. This is wrong (probably not deliberate, just a poor choice of words). It mounts on a crankarm (and the chainstay) and lets you know how many revolutions of the crank/minute...

Hands down a computer with cadence has been the biggest tool for helping me to get faster and stronger. I run my Cateye Astrale with the Cadence on top and the speed below, with cadence being more important than speed.

I usually stay at about 95 rpm, if I go lower i get sore legs and any higher tends to wear on me after about a mile or so.

Also a note on wireless computers; while I have not used them myself my riding buddies are always complaining that the batteries burn out quick with their wireless units.

most important functions for me are: trip, distance(odo), speed, and the stop watch..

But I have average speed, max speed, clock, +cadence option on my cyclo. They are a big help...

Things i want added as extras... well, altimeter, backlight, etc...:D

First, thanks to everyone whe replied to this it has helped me alot. I am going with the Shimano Flight Deck because I have Sora on my new Lemond (I know they are the cheapest but I have to start somewhere) so I am now looking for the best price, if anyone has had any experience with it, let me know

Originally posted by astonv0l
if anyone has had any experience with it, let me know

There have been quite a few recent posts on the FlightDeck. Do a search and you'll find them.

I will have to say that although I like my FlightDecks (yes, I have two), my FBS (Favourite Bike Shop) has told me that they hate those things because people always seem to have problems with them. Keeping the contacts clean and not overstressing the wires (even if you have the wireless kit, you will still have wires running from the shifters) leading to the harness/mount is paramount.

The 6501 harness has two contact slots in the bottom where the wires from each shifter run into. These have seals to keep water out but sometimes mositure will still build up in there. If you get wacky displays of gear information, that's one place you should look. Each contact is held in by two small screws. Another place to look is under the hood covers where the other side of the interface cables connect to the shifters. Lightly greasing the rubber seals is recommended. They should be pre-greased from the factory though.