Road Bike Racing - OCP/Aerodynamics/Comfort...

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I could fit a 54 with about 9.5cm of saddle-bar drop. The other option is a 56 with about 5 maybe 6cm of drop. Reach is about the same w/ a 110 stem. If I add spacers to the 54, or flip the stem up, it will look stupid.
Because, of course, I want to look fast, I like the idea of the 54. Does that extra drop help me aerodynamically? Will it leave me with a f#cked hip angle, thus robbing me of power? I was on a M Giant, which is sort of between these two sizes.
The extra seat post won't matter if you flip the stem up - they would negate each other in terms of aerodynamic positioning. Plus, you won't accomplish your goal of "looking fast" if your stem is flipped up.
lower seat post with a flipped stem = higher seat post with a flipped up stem
btw, how can they both be the same reach with a 110 stem?
My reach to the bars is pretty close on both bikes. The head tube on the 56 is 2 cm taller, and, of course, is angled toward me, because of the angle of the head tube. The 54 might have a 100 stem, I can't remember.
I wouldn't flip the stem up on the 54, I would just deal with the 9.5cm drop. My question is, would it make any real difference aerodynamically?
Speedee
10-09-07, 10:50 PM
Looking fast is 90% of being fast.
OCP/Aerodynamics/Comfort...
this is the wrong forum to worry about dress up and make believe, that's bf/roadcycling.
patentcad
10-10-07, 04:31 AM
this is the wrong forum to worry about dress up and make believe, that's bf/roadcycling.
Au contraire mon petit botto, there is no more appropriate place to worry about dress up and make believe than Road Nazi Central.
Snuffleupagus
10-10-07, 04:42 AM
It's not a TT bike. You want to be as comfortable and relaxed as possible during RRs in order to conserve your energy. Look at *most* of the pro peloton, they're not all running Jens Voigt style two meter saddle to bar drops.
When it comes time to get aero, just bend your elbows and bring your head down.
stea1thviper
10-10-07, 08:44 AM
i find it interesting how alot of people think that flexibility is a pro trait. if you can get comfortable in a more aero position, why not? if you want to get more aero without a loss in comfort, adjust your position every six months or so. nothing wrong with free speed. or u can be a fool like me and throw all the spacers away and get squirmy in the saddle for a few weeks =)
i find it interesting how alot of people think that flexibility is a pro trait. if you can get comfortable in a more aero position, why not? if you want to get more aero without a loss in comfort, adjust your position every six months or so. nothing wrong with free speed. or u can be a fool like me and throw all the spacers away and get squirmy in the saddle for a few weeks =)
if you can ride so low that it seems that you can lick your front wheel, like i witnessed a pro doing for 90 minutes on sunday, then hats off to you.
It's not a TT bike. You want to be as comfortable and relaxed as possible during RRs in order to conserve your energy. Look at *most* of the pro peloton, they're not all running Jens Voigt style two meter saddle to bar drops.
When it comes time to get aero, just bend your elbows and bring your head down.
Ah, you're right. F*ck.
curveship
10-10-07, 11:29 AM
Au contraire mon petit botto, there is no more appropriate place to worry about dress up and make believe than Road Nazi Central.
OCP = FWM, Freds With Money.
merlinextraligh
10-10-07, 02:42 PM
Buy the frame with the right length top tube. The rest, including the drop can be dialed in with various tweaks (i.e. spacers, and stem angles).
General rule of thumb is buy the size down when you're in between.
Buy the frame with the right length top tube. The rest, including the drop can be dialed in with various tweaks (i.e. spacers, and stem angles).
General rule of thumb is buy the size down when you're in between.
That rule of thumb will guarantee a shorter head tube, which will surely necessitate spacers/flipped stem.
I looked again today. The 54 (54.5 TT) is running 2.5cm of spacers and a 120mm stem. The reach is about 56.5, so I'd probably go with a 110 or a 100. The drop is about 9.5cm.
The 56 (56TT) is running 1.5cm of spacers and a 110 stem. Reach was 55.5. The drop was around 7cm.
I went to the drops naturally when riding the 56, and riding on the hoods too much was something I really struggled with this season. I raced/trained with the old bike setup with a 8.5cm drop early in the season, but didn't dig on it. I could get used to it though...
F*ck, the bike is velosex, and neither fit is a mistake. I appreciate the input.
patentcad
10-10-07, 07:44 PM
OCP = FWM, Freds With Money.
OCP = Obessive Compulsive Poseur. Nobody is more obsessed, more compulsive or more poseur than the average Road Nazi. I've been watching it with detatched bemusement now since about 1991 (as detached as somebody who actually fits the bill can possibly be). And it never changes. I take great comfort in that.
I'd say go with the 56. That's the classic Eddy position. And there's a reason Eddy set up his bikes like that: comfy in the peleton, but aero in the break.
Treefox
10-11-07, 05:33 PM
All else being equal, the smaller frame will weigh less
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