Mountain Biking - Trek 6000 - What would you do?

I have a Trek 6000 Mountain bike pictured below:

http://www.aaronandleah.dutton.net/bicycling/images/trek6000large.gif

I'm not sure if it is a 1999 or a 2000 model. Is there any clear way of identifying it? On the stem there is an 05-99 stamp on it which I assume is the manufacting stamp. My wife has a 4300 with an 07-99 stamp. Seeing that bike companies push out new models it could still be a 2000. In any case, mu bike is identical to the one in the link.

I replaced the rear rim with a Rhyno Lite a couple of years ago since the OEM rim bent went when a few spokes came loose on the trail.

I use this bike almost exclusively on paved trails, as well as regular use on a minoura trainer [as of last week :)]. I have 1.5" Michelin Wild Gripper City tires on it and also have a new set of 1.75" Michelin Wild Gripper Rock tires as well, ready to go when the others wear out. What's the consensus on these tires?

I just purchased a Cateye Astrale Cyclocomputer & Profile Brief Bar ends as well. I figure the bar ends will help with fatigue by giving me a new hand position to use.

What else would you do to make this bike more Roadworthy, if anything? I'm not sure where to find the geometry of the bike is but it is 19.5" and I'm 5'11" and it seems like the riding position is not as upright as other MTB's are.

The Acera Front Derailler is total crap and will be replaced probably next season. What about the Acera Crank though? Woud it be worth it to make any changes there? How about the bottom bracket? etc?

Is there anyplace to find a *CHEAP* Rigid fork? I've read some messages about Geometry adjusted forks, can anyone speak to this issue? Along the same lines does it matter if it is threaded or threadless? I know that it comes with a Canes Creek SE-1 Headset if that makes a difference.

It would be nice if this bike could also be comfortable for city use, it going over sidewalks etc. Perhaps a rigid fork is not the answer. How is the Manitou Magnum fork rated? Are there better forks out there that are in-line with my bike usage?

Whatever you have throw it out there. I'm new to this site and would love to learn more about my bike and bikes in general.

what exactly is wrong with the bike? Im confused.

you can upgrade the rear derailure and also the front if you want to. As for the fork, if you want to spend the money then you can get a good fork, but if you are riding streets I see no need. you have a good set of tires. Maybe look into more comfort related stuff, hows the seat feel? New handlebars? What dont you like about the bike is what I'm asking.

copper,

There's nothing really *wrong* with the bike, other than the front derailleur. Just looking to see what I can do to make it a *better* bike. I've had it since the summer of '99 and other than replacing a rim and the knobbies, I've left it stock.

Now that I can throw some cash into it, I'm investigating what does and doesn't make sense. I don't want to throw money into a road bike; yet at least.

The saddle is the OEM Trek saddle. I've always like it, but it is rather firm, and can get to you after a long ride. Not sure if this is typical or not for saddles. I never ride with bike shorts, but I did just order my 1st pair today, so maybe that will make a difference.

I like the fork for going over rough terrain, but it really is a pain on pavement when you need to get out of the saddle. Is the Magnum too boucy or too stiff compared to other forks? I don't know because I haven't ridden them and am not sure what makes or breaks a fork in terms of performance.



In other words, I am a n00b.
:)

as for the fork, you probably want something with a lockout. most Marzocchi forks have one. I dont know about the Manitous. A lockout makes the fork go rigid at the flick of a switch, and vise versa. if you are upgrading the front derailure do the back as well since its old and kinda crappy. If you are having a shop do the work for you, you will probably save a little money on labor if they do them together. either way you have to break the chain to install the front, so you might as well do the back at the same time. A rear derailure shouldt cost more than $40. just make sure its compatable with your current shifters.

Originally posted by trifona
Is there anyplace to find a *CHEAP* Rigid fork?

How cheap are you looking to go? I think I pointed out this page (http://www.bikeman.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BOS&Category_Code=COMPFKMTNR) to you in another post. The cheapest yet still decent quality rigid fork I've been able to find hover around the US$40 price range. The Surly 1x1 (http://www.bikeman.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FK0001&Category_Code=COMPFKMTNR) looks like a nice fork. You may also want to check with your LBS. They may have upgraded a customer's bike to suspension and now have a slightly used rigid fork sitting in a parts bin which they can offer to you cheaply.


Originally posted by trifona
I've read some messages about Geometry adjusted forks, can anyone speak to this issue?

A frame designed for suspension will generally expect a fork with taller legs thus raising the headtube. If you simply throw on a non-suspension-corrected rigid fork, you may find that your seattube and headtube angles are all thrown off and your bike might end up being fairly twitchy. To maintain proper handling characteristics, you want a suspension-corrected rigid fork. BTW, a similar but opposite problem happened in the early days of suspension whereby people swapping out a rigid fork for a suspension fork on a frame not intended for suspension would find that their bike had ended up with much slacker angles and slower steering. Luckily, back then things weren't excessive as suspension fork travel was relatively low (75mm or less). But on some bikes, the change was drastic enough that you could finish half of War and Peace in the time it took to carve a turn.


Originally posted by trifona
Along the same lines does it matter if it is threaded or threadless? I know that it comes with a Canes Creek SE-1 Headset if that makes a difference.

Yes, it does matter. The Cane Creek SE-1 is an AheadSet-style threadless headset and so you will need a threadless steerer on your fork. There may be some goofy adapter/conversion kit to allow you to use a threaded steerer but I'm not sure that would make sense in your situation. If you really want to go with a threaded steerer then you'll need to replace your stem and headset as well.