Fifty Plus (50+) - Prescription Glasses for Riding

Time to change eyeglass prescription, so some questions please.
1. My lens size: 1.25" height and 2.00" width. Is there a preferred lens size for riding purposes?

2. Do you use progressive glasses (no "lines" between prescription-strengths) for riding with? If you use progressive glasses, is there a particular ratio of prescription-strength that you like best? I believe my progressive lenses have three strengths:
A. Very bottom of lens for close reading. A thin row at the very bottom, maybe 15 percent of lens.
B. Very top for long distance. A very thin row at the very top, maybe 20 percent of lens.
C. Middle of lens I suppose for everything else, maybe 65 percent of lens.

I do find myself having to keep the bridge of my glasses about mid-point of my nose, when looking more than 50 feet ... to use the long distance prescription-strenght ... so I would probably need a higher ratio of the lens for long distance.

3. Do you use glasses for just long distance vision (single prescription-strength), and if you do ... what drawbacks do you have as far as seeing things at handlebar-distance?

4. Do you use glasses that will photogray ... or use clip-on shades that you clip on your prescription lenses?

I find that the progressive glasses have the distance area too far down from the top of the lense. I have returned to standard bifocals for riding so that I can look out of the top of the lens more and not have to tip my head up so far.

Transitions are great (photogrey). Polorized clipons will make your computer go black screen at most angles. (we tested the polarizing effect of this on most computers this last spring)

Are you asking about cycling-specific glasses, or things to look for on new regular glasses that work better for cycling?

I've always preferred traditional lined bi-focals and now, tri-focals because they seem to give me wider field of view. There's more in focus more often, without having to point my nose. Even before I took up cycling, I preferred a larger top area (lower lines) than most people. That's less of an issue on a drop-bar road bike. On the bike, it doesn't seem to matter to me where the lines are since my head is down to begin with.

If you're going with cycling-specific glasses, you may want to consider single-vision in your distance prescription only. It saves a bundle. My sunglasses are single-vision and they work just fine on the bike. They leave the cyclometer just readable enough that I can use it, but hard enough to read that I can't obsess on it.

Finally, I've always preferred either photochromatic (genuine Photogray seems to work best--they change faster and get both darker and lighter) or dedicated sunglasses. The clip-ons give me twice as many sides to keep clean and frustrate me when I can't quite find the dirty side.

They told me those progressive lenses are pretty hard to get use to after wearing bifocals for a while. I'm thinking about getting transitional lenses, but I don't know if they would be any good for riding either.

I rejected bifocals. I can read if I hold stuff close. I prefer a medium sized lens.
Large blocks the wind better, but has too much weight.

If your presciption is not strong, consider sport frames like Bolle, Rudy, etc. The wraparound is a very nice feature. I had a set of lens made for Bolle, but the distortion is pretty bad ( I have terrible eyes) and I only use them when it's blazing hot. They make me feel cooler.

Are you asking about cycling-specific glasses, or things to look for on new regular glasses that work better for cycling?

I've always preferred traditional lined bi-focals and now, tri-focals because they seem to give me wider field of view. There's more in focus more often, without having to point my nose. Even before I took up cycling, I preferred a larger top area (lower lines) than most people. That's less of an issue on a drop-bar road bike. On the bike, it doesn't seem to matter to me where the lines are since my head is down to begin with.

If you're going with cycling-specific glasses, you may want to consider single-vision in your distance prescription only. It saves a bundle. My sunglasses are single-vision and they work just fine on the bike. They leave the cyclometer just readable enough that I can use it, but hard enough to read that I can't obsess on it.

Finally, I've always preferred either photochromatic (genuine Photogray seems to work best--they change faster and get both darker and lighter) or dedicated sunglasses. The clip-ons give me twice as many sides to keep clean and frustrate me when I can't quite find the dirty side.

I was writing my post when yours came up. I guess I'll try those genuine Photogray as well.

I got Rudy Rydons (http://www.rudyprojectusa.com/products/sunglasses/styles/rydon.htm) with the prescription insert. I have a set of sunglass lenses and a set of clear lenses. I got these partly for the adjustable nose piece, my nose is hard to fit. The inserts are easy to click in.

I was riding with regular sunglasses or clear glasses, but cool weather would make my eyes water excessively. The wraparound lenses now help a lot.

I have bifocals, but got the inserts done as single vision. I can see the bike computer OK, but have to lift off the glasses and hold a map quite close to my face to see small details.

A minor problem -- the clear lenses and inserts get multiple reflections of point source lights at night. It's acceptable.

I had Rudy make the inserts. (They don't do that any longer). The first one I got was good when I held the insert up to my eyes, but when it was clicked into the glasses, the outside edge of the insert angled back enough to make the prescription fuzzy. They re-did it, and the replacement is fine. The fact that your head is tilted down and you are looking out the top section of the prescription at an angle probably affects the way the insert is made, too.

They were expensive, but they work well.

I fought bifocals for a long time until I could no longer do paperwork - the bifocals never seemed to work well for me - until I asked the doctor if I could change the focal length he was using. My bifocals focus at 24 inches - ideal for me. Anything closer than about 6", though, I have to take my glasses off. I don't use 'lineless' because thay distort my peripheral vision a bit, which I can't afford in my work.

I ride a recumbent, and the big problem there are the bi-focals - with my head back I'm looking through the lower part of the lens for distance. Doesn't work. I have a pair of regular glasses just for bike riding, and a pair of prescription sunglasses, also. On the bike, I take my glasses off to read - or hold the paper at arm's length *grin*

I swap between the three as needed.

I just usually wear my normal, everyday progressives. They are Transitions. Not as good as real photograys but they're getting a LOT better as they go along. I think Transitions are on their 4th generation or so by now. I like 'em but, then, I've been wearing photosensitive glasses for well over 30 years now.

On full-on sunny day rides, I just wear an old -but not too obsolete- single prescription shades.
Nothing fancy, just your ordinary green tinted plastic. No polarization or anything.

I have the Bolle Parole system, a multi lens unit that has an insert for prescription lens. My prescription insert is just set for seeing in the distance, just 1 single prescription. I've used these for years before I needed 'close in' help. When I could no longer see my handlebar computer's readouts, I purchased stick-on optical lenses, effectively making them bi-focals. They work well and are easy to apply. In my case, I just attached one to my right prescriptive lens, I leave my left without it so I can see my mirror easily. I put them on my wife's lenses as well, she also enjoys them.

I got mine at: http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/searchresult.html?catalog=safetyglassesusa&query=optix+bifocal&p1=&p2=

I don't have dedicated cycling glasses, but bought my current pair with outdoor activities in mind. I have progressives with transition lenses, and they work really nicely. Since I don't have that much of a nose, I've also found it helpful to have one of those adjustable straps so I can keep them in place better, which helps when I'm sweaty and riding head down.

I usually wear my regular no line bifocal prescription glasses while riding. They are large lense aviator style glasses. Polarized and tinted if it's a real bright day and I won't be riding into dusk. If it's not that bright out or it will be getting on towards dark before I am in, I wear the ones that are transitions. The transitions do not get as dark as the dedicated sunglasses and of course they are not polarized. When it is really hot, I wear contacts and safety glasses that I don't mind wiping sweat off of with whatever is handy. Seeing while you bike is good. All three options work well for me.

I wear my long distance-only, single vision lens while riding and leave the bi-focals at home. Hardly ever need the short-distance section while out on a ride. Just standard clear lenses, as I don't like riding with sunglasses/tint.

I wear trifocals with transition lenses normally. For cycling, I have bifocals with transitions. The bottom is for reading the cycling computer and the top for all else. My cycling glasses are wrap arounds to help keep me from tearing in wind and cold.

I had lasik surgery so my distance vision is great but I need help reading my cycle computer and route maps while riding. Solution I found was stick on bifocals attached to my riding glasses.

I used bifocals for years, then switched to progressives, which I use for everything, driving, flying, reading, trap shooting, biking included. Work great. Wish I had got them years ago, but I understand that they have made great improvements in them the past few years.

You will find multiple choices at this web site - get your script from your doc and order what you want, great prices: http://www.sportrx.com/

I have ordered prescription ski googles from them that are great, I will most likely order some prescription riding glasses from them as well - I like the Julbo Tasman as it has side shields that can be added. I great benifit in the spring when the bugs are out and in the fall to keep the face a little warmer.

Time to change eyeglass prescription, so some questions please.
1. My lens size: 1.25" height and 2.00" width. Is there a preferred lens size for riding purposes?

2. Do you use progressive glasses (no "lines" between prescription-strengths) for riding with? If you use progressive glasses, is there a particular ratio of prescription-strength that you like best? I believe my progressive lenses have three strengths:
A. Very bottom of lens for close reading. A thin row at the very bottom, maybe 15 percent of lens.
B. Very top for long distance. A very thin row at the very top, maybe 20 percent of lens.
C. Middle of lens I suppose for everything else, maybe 65 percent of lens.

I do find myself having to keep the bridge of my glasses about mid-point of my nose, when looking more than 50 feet ... to use the long distance prescription-strenght ... so I would probably need a higher ratio of the lens for long distance.

3. Do you use glasses for just long distance vision (single prescription-strength), and if you do ... what drawbacks do you have as far as seeing things at handlebar-distance?

4. Do you use glasses that will photogray ... or use clip-on shades that you clip on your prescription lenses?

I've been using progressives for 12 years now and wouldn't have it any other way. My optometrist described the magnification levels as being like an upside down mushroom. The widest part for reading, a narrower part for middle distance (like what I'm looking through now to type this) and the rest for distance. For riding they're no problem at all. On sunny days I have a pair of polarized grey glasses at my distance setting. I can't see my comuter very well and I can't read a map with them on but hey, I'm a guy, I don't read maps. I've thoght of getting a pair of sexy Rudy Project shields with prescription inserts but I could buy a lot of gear for what that would cost. So, at last, I don't think you should need special glasses for cycling.

Do a search and you'll see that every word and every idea in this thread has been repeated several times, every time someone asks this question.

Progressive photogray lenses all day, on/off the tandem. Work great for me.
Used Bolle prescription clip ons for a few years. Worked OK, but too pricey and we only usable for riding.

I need glasses primarily for reading. I have found that for specialty uses (SCUBA mask, Cycling glasses, etc) that stick on reading lenses worked best for me. OPTX-20/20 (www.neoptx.com) is the brand that I have been using for years. You can get them in various locations including most online Dive shops and Amazon.

I use a lens material made by Corning branded as "Thin and Dark" - bifocals. Put in any frame you like. I really like this material very much and have a reqular pair for all-time use and a pair for cycling. These are photochromatic and will darken while driving the car (the windshield normally reduces the UV that causes the photochromatic lenses to darken to the point that Photogray really won't work for driving into the sunlight).

YMMV.

Jim

I bought some Rayban sport glasses and put prescription lenses in them. I have a bifocal prescription but I didn't use the reading part. The distant focal length is all that I need.