Long Distance Cycling - Giant FCR3

I'm thinking of using my Gaint FCR 3 as a long distance bicycle. It's a lightweight, flat bar hybrid. Is it worth the expense of changing to drop bars or should I shop for a new ride? Any other suggestions to make it more "long distance" worthy would eb appreciated.

Going from flat bars with mountainbike style shifters, to road bars with brake-shifters gives you 3 or 4 more hand positions. The flat bars have one spot for your hands, two if you add bar ends. Drop bars give you the flats close to the stem, the first curve, the brifters, the second curve (in the drops) and the flats on the ends of the bars. These can all be used to alleviate hand and back pain, and to make fighting a head wind a little easier.

The cost of converting a flat bar setup to a drop bar setup can be expensive. If you buy used parts and do the work yourself, you'll save a lot of money. Do some research to decide if it's worth the hassle or easier to just get a new bike.

The cost of converting a flat bar setup to a drop bar setup can be expensive. If you buy used parts and do the work yourself, you'll save a lot of money. Do some research to decide if it's worth the hassle or easier to just get a new bike.

I can also be pretty economical. You can get non-integrated brake levers and bar end shifters which reduce the expense of the biggest cost item. You will either need to either make sure your drop bars have the same clamp diameter as your stem or get a new stem. You'll also need to install Travel Agent brake cable adapters to use drop bar brakes with hybrid (I assume V-brakes).

So, you're looking at a minimum of brake levers, drop bar shifters (or brifters) new brake cables, handlebar, bar tape, Travel Agents, and a few hours of your labor.

The advantage of doing this is that hybrids will accept wider tires than most road bikes. So, you can run 30mm Grand Bois tires and have a good smooth ride with low rolling resistance. The disadvantage is that hybrids tend to be a bit heavier than road bikes.

I've made this switch and have been pretty satisfied with it. It's certainly far cheaper than a new bike.

In terms of bike mods, a few questions.

1) What's the longest ride you've done on this bike so far? And how did it feel?
2) Is speed an issue?
3) Have you found the bike to be mechanically reliable?

Although I'm a fan of drop bars, I'm not sure a switch is necessary. I'd start by adding bar-ends, or possibly switching to trekking bars. If that setup doesn't work for you after you've done numerous 60-70 mile rides, then I'd look into switching.

In terms of bike mods, a few questions.

1) What's the longest ride you've done on this bike so far? And how did it feel?
2) Is speed an issue?
3) Have you found the bike to be mechanically reliable?

Although I'm a fan of drop bars, I'm not sure a switch is necessary. I'd start by adding bar-ends, or possibly switching to trekking bars. If that setup doesn't work for you after you've done numerous 60-70 mile rides, then I'd look into switching.

I've ridden 80 miles in a day on the bike and there was no more pain than the usual stuff. Speed is an issue, but only as it relates to my two other bikes; Giant NRS3 F/S MTB and Novara Randonee steel framed touring bike. I guess I was thinking I could be faster on the FCR3. The bike has been very reliable and I've had no problems with it. I added bar ends and they seem to give me enough hand positions to aviod pain.

I guess I'm wondering if the FCR3 is faster than my other two rides for long distance organized rides.

Have you considered add-on aero bars? Would add weight and decrease bar-top space, though. Does anyone here use them?

Bar ends are great for hand/wrist positioning but drops let you crouch down more comfortably, and changes your seating position and pelvic angle as well, so your tail and your back get a bit of a different position.

I guess I'm wondering if the FCR3 is faster than my other two rides for long distance organized rides.
Hrm

Well, unfortunately I'm still mired in trying to figure out exactly why my cross bike is slower than my road bike. ;) However, none of those bikes seem like they are built for pure speed. A Roubaix-style bike might be more appropriate if you're looking for a blend of speed and comfort.

That said, my guess is if you lower the bars and use skinny tires on your touring bike, it will likely be faster than your other bikes. That's an affordable tactic, so I'd try that first and see how it goes on a training ride.

possibly switching to trekking bars...

I did this with my Giant FCR4 and am completely happy with it. Specifically, i added adjustable stem and trekking bars. I think i got both from nashbar. The stem allowed me to raise my hands a bit, and was able to re-use shifters and levers. Did the work my self, so only like 30 bucks in parts. I love the multiple(at least 3) hand positions, and the feel of bar tape over grips. It was well worth the $. I also switched to a brooks saddle(b17) for my ld conversion,(not required but certainly a plus).

trekking bars.

I have trekking bars on my 7.3fx trek and rode 140 with no problems. They are about 8 dollars online.

I did this with my Giant FCR4 and am completely happy with it. Specifically, i added adjustable stem and trekking bars. I think i got both from nashbar. The stem allowed me to raise my hands a bit, and was able to re-use shifters and levers. Did the work my self, so only like 30 bucks in parts. I love the multiple(at least 3) hand positions, and the feel of bar tape over grips. It was well worth the $. I also switched to a brooks saddle(b17) for my ld conversion,(not required but certainly a plus).

Sounds like you and I have a similar set up.

Only I have brooks bar tape and no grips and a champion flyer (B17 with springs).