View Full Version : Mavic Open Pro Road Rim for a clyde?
chainzawz
10-19-07, 11:14 AM
Hey all, im back again! Just working on picking out the last few things for my bike upgrade (upgrading some parts on a stock 2006 LeMond Etape) Anyways I was looking into getting these Mavic Open Pro Road wheelset, they seem like they would be solid...and I have the option of picking the spoke count so I am thinking about going with 32 for the front and 36 for the back...I know that many people say that spoke count doesn't matter but I am still planning on getting the higher spoke count since some of the roads I ride on aren't the greatest for those "flashy Aero Wheels" As I like to call them! Anyways I am looking for some input on these wheels and would like to know if anyone here has used them?
yup, many. Many swear by them, I couldn't keep them true (6'3, 230) and ended up with deep-vs.
Weight? type of riding?
construction (machine vs. hand-built), hubs, spokes and nippples are all big factors.
superdex
10-19-07, 12:18 PM
and I have the option of picking the spoke count so I am thinking about going with 32 for the front and 36 for the back...I know that many people say that spoke count doesn't matter but
But spoke count does matter. How heavy are you? I'm 205ish, and builders have recommended 28/32 for me...
chainzawz
10-19-07, 12:21 PM
Hey guys, thanks for the replies, I am about 220 I think, and I am around 5' 7" or so. I will be using it for the road bike...I am not racing but I am going to be starting a "training" program soon to lose some weight.
Big Paulie
10-19-07, 12:44 PM
I've had OK luck with Mavics, but better luck with Velocity Synergy rims and Shimoano 105 hubs. I weigh 220 also.
dahoss2002
10-19-07, 12:53 PM
I'm nearing the below 200 lb. mark and I have a xero-lite wheelset that I've put over 1500 miles on and so far they are still true. I was between 205 - 215 most of those miles. Spoke count 20 rear, 16 front. 2 century rides and 2 group rides of over 70 miles included. I've had them less than a year though so still not sure how long they will hold up but so far so good.
chainzawz
10-19-07, 12:53 PM
question for you guys, where do you get your wheels? Do you order them offline? I don't have a LBS around that builds wheels....
Even more important than rims are good quality spokes. Remember, it's spokes which break not rims.
Wogsterca
10-19-07, 01:54 PM
Even more important than rims are good quality spokes. Remember, it's spokes which break not rims.
The most important is proper spoke tension, most machine built wheels, have too low tension. When tension is too low, the spokes at the top of the wheel allow the rim to flex slightly, this makes the spokes on the bottom of the wheel effectively too long, forcing them to bend slightly, when spokes are constantly bending like this, dozens of times per minute, they break at the end. The distances involved are extremely small, we are talking a few hundredths of a millimetre. The lower the spoke tension, the more each spoke is affected. The fewer the number of spokes, the more each spoke is affected. The heavier the "load" on the wheel, the more each spoke is affected. The more flex in the rim, the more each spoke is affected.
There are of course mechanical limits, where the flex in the rim, spoke count, wheel load, overcome even the most optimum tension, but we are probably talking extremes here, 8 spokes on a 125g carbon rim, with a 200kg rider, would do it, but those are extremes in all directions.
If you want light weight rims, and low spoke count wheels, then prepare to invest in having the wheel tensioned and trued by a professional wheel builder before you ride it the first time, and rechecked, by the same wheel builder on a regular basis. If you want install and forget wheels, then go for heavy weight, stiff rims, and lots of spokes.
CastIron
10-19-07, 02:04 PM
Wheels are a system of parts. Only as good as the weakest, so beefing up on one part may not deliver the intended results. Having said that, Open Pro rims are ubiquitous and not bad (I have a set, but were the wheels not so damn cheap would've selected a different rim), I'd steer you to other selections. Which one, exactly, depends on a host of things you haven't specified like, rider weight, budget, priorities (weight vs durability), and use.
Even more important than rims are good quality spokes. Remember, it's spokes which break not rims.
Really ???? I have broken 1 spoke and 2 rims in the last 2 1/2 years.
socalrider
10-19-07, 07:19 PM
I have all the rims listed above..
Mavic Open Pro - Good Solid wheelset, go with higher spoke count..
Velocity Deep V - More rigid and lateral stiffness but a little heavier than open pro
DT Swiss RR 1.1 - Just as light as open pros with the stiffness of the deep v
My recent wheelset if DT Swiss RR1.1, as light as open pros but have a little depper profile, not as deep as the deep V's but just as stiff..
jimblairo
10-19-07, 08:05 PM
I'm 6'6" and 230 lbs and have a set of Open Pro 36 spoke on my cross bike. The builder tensioned them for long easy rides and they have over 4000k on them without truing. Great wheels for me and my style of riding.
TallSteve
10-19-07, 08:36 PM
I was going with the Open Pros...I am 6'4" at 230. I had a long discussion about this on the mechanics site. The end result...Deep Vs or the DT Swiss 1.1s. Have them hand built and some good spokes. If you happen to break one, you may well be able to ride it home. Not so with many machine built wheel sets for reasons explained above. good luck
the next set of road wheels I get will be Velocity Deep V's 36 spoke. Tom, just got some on his new ride too.
DieselDan
10-19-07, 10:24 PM
My "light" wheelset has Mavic Open Pro rims. Both are 32 spoke with Shimano 600 (Ultegra) hubs. I'm still running 7-speed freehubs. These seems to be as strong as my "everyday" wheels which are Mavic CXP-22 rims with Shimano RSX hubs. Both sets were built by the wheelsmith at my LBS.
Really ???? I have broken 1 spoke and 2 rims in the last 2 1/2 years.
Then you are an exception. Were you dropping off curbs or mountain biking when you broke your rims, or just riding along?
Then you are an exception. Were you dropping off curbs or mountain biking when you broke your rims, or just riding along?
no just riding along -- pulled the spokes out the rim on both, both were road rims.
one rim was a bontrager select (some rumor of a bad batch of rims on the selects) had about 2000 miles on the rim. Bontrager wheel department said it was impossible (I love statements like that in the face of hard evidence) recognize that bontrager/trek market these wheels as bullet proof. This rim was exclusively on my road bike.
The other is a bit more perlexing as it was a 36 hole open pro with about 5000 miles on it -- same failure pulled several spokes out. I know there are several people on the forum that have said there is a known weakness with the open pro eyelets. I'll just leave it at that. Mavic replaced the rim and my LBS rebuilt it. This rim was on my 'cross bike (commuter/raced it a couple of times/ride some trails on it) obviously it sees a little more abuse than my road bike rim would have.
I also have a 32 hole open pro that I have fewer problems with (primarily been on my road bike since I gave up on the selects) but it probably doesn't have near the abuse or mileage on it.
The one spoke I have broke was on the second select rim(after they replaced it and my LBS rebuilt it) he stress relieved and retensioned it several times before he let me ride it though. I gave up on the wheel after that (Its on my wife's bike now)
I am 6' 6" and have ranged between 275 # and 250# since riding currently 255. Obviously I'm not gentle on anything. but the rim thing has always perplexed me a bit. both were rear wheels(obviously the weak link for wheels) I don't think I have ever had problem with a front wheel.
^^^
Wow. That's the first I've heard of such repeated wheel destruction.
Tom Stormcrowe
10-20-07, 02:18 PM
Check out Air, if you really want to meet a "Destroyer of Wheels" ;)
^^^
Wow. That's the first I've heard of such repeated wheel destruction.
Hi,
I weigh 250 and I like speed. What worked for me was Mavic CXP33 rims.
They are like the Deep V. Incredibly strong, the only time I got the wheel out of true was when I hit big holes going real fast.
The nice thing about the CXP33 is that they aren't heavy. At 470gr they are 35 grams heavier than a Open Pro.
http://www.mavic.com/road/products/CXP-33.M134B.aspx
Match them with a good hub, and you can't go wrong.
starship
10-20-07, 04:53 PM
I have a set of Mavic Open Pro rims, Ultegra Hubs, and DT 18GA 32 crossed 3x. They don't spin up as fast as the 16 spoke stock rims, but I can climb hills now and not worry about busting a spoke.
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/kit/SSFCCU32
I got mine at Colorado Cyclist.
Kid-Cycle
10-20-07, 08:45 PM
Hi,
I weigh 250 and I like speed. What worked for me was Mavic CXP33 rims.
They are like the Deep V. Incredibly strong, the only time I got the wheel out of true was when I hit big holes going real fast.
The nice thing about the CXP33 is that they aren't heavy. At 470gr they are 35 grams heavier than a Open Pro.
http://www.mavic.com/road/products/CXP-33.M134B.aspx
Match them with a good hub, and you can't go wrong.
I broke a Bontrager Race Light rim (~4,000 miles) with bladed spokes and Trek replaced it. Then I started poping spokes. I then went with Mavic Open Pros with 32 spokes laced to an Ultegra hubs (ordered from net). I had trouble keeping them true until I had a local bike mech true them and he then he used lock tight (green I think). Never had a problem until a few days ago (3,000 miles later) when I was riding and noticed my rear wheel was wobbling. I got home and went to adjust it and found I pulled one of the spokes partially through the rim.
I talked with another mech and he suggested the CXP33's which is what I plan to replace my rear wheel with.
IMO at 250 lbs I think I (many of us) the load just simply fatigues aluminum rims and causes stress cracks. Local mech quoted me $90 for CPX33 rim and $40 for lacing.
IMO at 250 lbs I think I (many of us) the load just simply fatigues aluminum rims and causes stress cracks. Local mech quoted me $90 for CPX33 rim and $40 for lacing.
My current thoughts are to build a DT R1.2 rim with alpine III spokes, but I'm not sure on the hub -- I'd be happy with an ultegra hub but I read somewhere the holes aren't big enough for the alpine III spokes. I'd lace the rear 32 3 cross and the front 28(might even go with an R1.1 front)
The fatigue issue could definitely apply here and also stress corrosion cracking (My rims were run in the winter and rain)
On the fatigue front a 32 hole RIM would actually be stronger than a 36 hole RIM (fewer holes=more aluminum) That is discounting the wheel as a system -- I am strictly looking at the strength of the RIM (trying to avoid the flames ) :D
Go with spokes that will fit a standard hub. Spokes today are great, the problems like elsewhere, IMO.
Give us updates on those rims. If they work out for you, I want to try them.
socalrider
10-21-07, 01:17 PM
One of the nicer hubs on the market right now is the american classic rear hub.. Nice and light but has a high flange profile which gives you a much stiffer build.. I was lucky to find one when they still made them in 36 hole, they now only sell 32 hole..
http://www.amclassic.com/rd_205_s.html
hammond9705
10-21-07, 07:20 PM
I have a set of Mavic Open Pro rims, Ultegra Hubs, and DT 18GA 32 crossed 3x. They don't spin up as fast as the 16 spoke stock rims, but I can climb hills now and not worry about busting a spoke.
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/kit/SSFCCU32
I got mine at Colorado Cyclist.
+1
I've got a couple sets of OP/Ultegra from Colorado Cyclist and have over 7k miles between them without a problem. Call them up, tell them how much you weigh and they will hand build you a great set for a good price. I go about 260lbs.
Have 36-hole NOS black anodized Open Pros (see photo in the Clydesdale fixie thread).
Components are important, but the wheel builder even more so. Clydes shouldn't mess around -- lots of folks claim to be wheel builders. Find one who's experienced.
Check out Air, if you really want to meet a "Destroyer of Wheels" ;)
:D
I'm going to be going with Deep Vs myself.
Those are the wheels I have on my road bike since about 2000. I'm 6'-1.5", and have been as heavy as 240 lbs. I crashed once and taco'd my rear, so had to change that rim. Have 32 spokes on both wheels. Aside from the crash, I've checked the wheel trueness and spoke tension a maximum of 10 times. Have yet to true them! That's about 6000 miles.
I'd buy them again and will definitely recommend them.
As a pro wheelbuilder and a 250lb Clyde I use and would recommend Mavic CXP33 36 hole rims. They are the only ones which have stood the test of time. Tried lots of others but the CXP33's are the best.
They have a downside in that in wet conditions, water can get into the space between the rim walls due to the design of the eyelets. I would recommend using brass nipples not aluminium to avoid corrosion and having your LBS wheelsmith tension the rear driveside to 1300 Newtons.
I loves the red ones on my Trek OCLV but Mavic have discontinued the colour and only do black and silver. The Black ones are stronger due to the harder anodising.
I have used these rims for over 5 years now including British winters and am impressed.
mikeyp.1
11-01-07, 04:28 PM
I used the velocity sparticus areo deep v rims for many miles@240 and they held up well-now at 215 I ride ritchie pro-20/24 and so far so good-the velocitys are cheap too-like 300 on sale.
superslomo
11-01-07, 05:29 PM
Mike Garcia talked about building a set for me (at 210-215 lbs.) that was 28 at the front, maybe 32 at the back.
Ended up getting OP CDs and Ultegra front, XTR rear. So far so good, but it hasn't been a whole lot of mileage since I got them. They are 32 3x, and I like to think that I "ride light". That distinction is VERY important to the truing and breaking question: do you routinely lighten in the saddle and on the pedals when you see obstacles or do you just barge through them?
My current thoughts are to build a DT R1.2 rim with alpine III spokes, but I'm not sure on the hub -- I'd be happy with an ultegra hub but I read somewhere the holes aren't big enough for the alpine III spokes. I'd lace the rear 32 3 cross and the front 28(might even go with an R1.1 front)
D
Give us updates on those rims. If they work out for you, I want to try them.
Update -- I know this is an old thread but you asked for updates
#1 I broke rim #3 32 hole open pro cracking at the spoke holes
Ordered new wheel set ultegra hubs and DT swiss 14 - 15 - 14 spokes (Champions?)
Front -- 28 hole 3x(3X was probably a mistake in this case) DT Swiss RR1.1 --
Rear -- 32 hole 3x RR1.2
Rear wheel was a bit heavier than I expected. I expect that the RR1.2 is remarkably similar to the Deep-V. The front is my only disappointment at this point, it is more flexible than I expected may have been better off 2X or radial in the front (I don't remember if the Ultegra hub is rated for radial) other than that no problems so far. had them since May. probably 1500-2000 miles
professorbob
08-22-08, 03:26 PM
Open Pros with 36 spokes, three cross, handbuilt are bombproof. I'm 250 and have had mine for about 5 years and they almost never need truing. I've just ordered a new road bike and will be having a new set of these built up for them.
Open Pros with 36 spokes, three cross, handbuilt are bombproof. I'm 250 and have had mine for about 5 years and they almost never need truing. I've just ordered a new road bike and will be having a new set of these built up for them.
2 of the rims I pulled the spokes out of were open pros -- one was a 32 hole and the other was a 36 hole The 36 hole had less than 4000 miles and was less than a year old when it broke. Granted I was heavier that you at the time (275# tops) but I don't consider that 'bombproof'
I have 550 miles so far on a set of Open Pro 32's and I currently weight 302 lbs. They were machine built and after a few rides I trued and tensioned them. Did it again after another couple of weeks. They've been fine ever since.
professorbob
08-22-08, 09:23 PM
>but I don't consider that 'bombproof'
Were they handmade and tensioned properly or mail order?
As a pro wheelbuilder and a 250lb Clyde I use and would recommend Mavic CXP33 36 hole rims. They are the only ones which have stood the test of time. Tried lots of others but the CXP33's are the best.
They have a downside in that in wet conditions, water can get into the space between the rim walls due to the design of the eyelets. I would recommend using brass nipples not aluminium to avoid corrosion and having your LBS wheelsmith tension the rear driveside to 1300 Newtons.
I loves the red ones on my Trek OCLV but Mavic have discontinued the colour and only do black and silver. The Black ones are stronger due to the harder anodising.
I have used these rims for over 5 years now including British winters and am impressed.
+1
the 36 hole was hand made properly tensioned -- we (the LBS and I) had to send the rim to Mavic to ensure it was properly tensioned before they would replace the rim.
the 32 hole was a wheelsmith that was installed on my cross bike when I got it from another shop
Mr. Beanz
08-22-08, 10:39 PM
>but I don't consider that 'bombproof'
Were they handmade and tensioned properly or mail order?
I noticed you mention 3000 miles in one post then 5 years in another. It took you 5 years to do 3000 miles on the wheels? Like the other guy, mine would not last more than 4 000 miles, 10 months on my schedule. If you had to true them once a season for 5 years to get 3000 miles, that is not bombproof.
My V's have 15,000 miles in 3 years without being touched with a spokewrench or any other tool, that's bombproof. If your statements above are true, you've got about 1000 left on those wheels.:D
I've had 4 OP's built by 4 different builders, all handbuilt and not one lasted over 10 months. One went as far as splitting on the braking surface!:eek:
FarHorizon
08-23-08, 05:07 AM
I don't like Mavics. One of mine failed & dumped me. Still have neurological damage.
That said, the cause was probably too wide a tire on the rim that caused the rim to split from the center. If you're using Mavics (particularly) PAY ATTENTION TO THE RECOMMENDED TIRE WIDTHS.
Just because some 80# cyclocross racer can run wide tires on his rims at low air pressure for traction doesn't mean that a clyde can run the same tire at max sidewall pressure.
This isn't about spoke count or rim quality directly, but it sure is pertinent to the consideration of rims in relation to the safety of the rider. Just a FYI...
FarHorizon
08-23-08, 08:41 PM
*waves back* Hi to you too, Air!
In general, from what I've read (in the two books on wheel building that I've had the pleasure to read) more spokes is, indeed, better spokes for durability. Weight & aerodynamics are somewhat compromised, but not for nothing do tandems get 40-48 spoke wheels.
On the other hand, I've used some V-rims with fewer than expected spokes that were really durable - even for my (then) 260# self! The Campagnolo Vento wheels were absolutely great & I recommend them, even to clydes, based on my "statistical sample of one."
jkmartin
08-24-08, 01:22 PM
I've had the Open Pros/Ultegra with 32 spokes front/rear for a few weeks now. Last wheel was a Bontrager thing that developed cracks on the rim after 5 years (mostly due to me failing to true it correctly). Open Pros feel good and after about 200 miles (including 85 today) they've stayed true.
The LBS wanted $200 just for the rear. Performance and Colorado Cyclist were about $150 for the rear. I went with Bicycle Wheel Warehouse and got the front and rear for about $260 shipped.
My "light" wheelset has Mavic Open Pro rims. Both are 32 spoke...
This is what I run (5'-11", 190lbs) with old Record hubs. Tens of thousands of kms on 'em and trued once every couple of years or so, built and "maintained" by my LBS mechanic. Other than two broken axles this season, they're BOMBPROOF. Outstanding training wheels, but you're gonna have to work hard to race 'em.
Sorry posted this in the wrong place --
I endeavoured to begin disassembly of my 32 hole wheel (ok so I just pulled the rim tape:D) and discovered that 4 of the eyelets were broke (2 where the rim was already visibly cracked) all 4 were NON-drive side (that certainly seems odd)
rim crack
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/d_j_bowman/IMG_1841.jpg
here is an eyelet
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/d_j_bowman/IMG_1845.jpg
here is a picture of one of the missing eyelets
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/d_j_bowman/Picture004.jpg
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