General Cycling Discussion - Pray for me

One of these days, I will hopefully succeed in removing my bike's platform pedals which are seemingly STUCK ON WITH CONCRETE; then I can install some with toe clips and also try out PowerGrips and get on with my cycling.

Yes I know you bend the wrench down towards the back. Believe me, I have read everything there is to read about pedal removal. I have tried one pedal wrench, pretty useless, and have put in an order for a bigger pedal wrench.

Tried:
* tapping the crankarms
* using WD-40, though how you really are supposed to get it IN THERE, is a bit of a mystery.
* pouring boiling water over it
* heating for 10 mins with a candle held 1/2 inch away.
* pushing yet harder on the pedal wrench. I think they were originally put on with CRAZY GLUE. I practically have broken my wrists trying to get any semblance of something turning.

Next project is to heat for 20 or so mins with the candle, and try the big-ass pedal wrench when it arrives.

Why not try a new crankset?

Why not try a new crankset?

...or maybe a good bike shop. Any quality shop will give it a shot, especially if your going to buy some new pedals.

One of these days, I will hopefully succeed in removing my bike's platform pedals which are seemingly STUCK ON WITH CONCRETE; then I can install some with toe clips and also try out PowerGrips and get on with my cycling.

Yes I know you bend the wrench down towards the back. Believe me, I have read everything there is to read about pedal removal. I have tried one pedal wrench, pretty useless, and have put in an order for a bigger pedal wrench.

Tried:
* tapping the crankarms
* using WD-40, though how you really are supposed to get it IN THERE, is a bit of a mystery.
* pouring boiling water over it
* heating for 10 mins with a candle held 1/2 inch away.
* pushing yet harder on the pedal wrench. I think they were originally put on with CRAZY GLUE. I practically have broken my wrists trying to get any semblance of something turning.

Next project is to heat for 20 or so mins with the candle, and try the big-ass pedal wrench when it arrives.


Carefully placed hammer blows to the end of the wrench. Or a cheater bar (I usually use a piece of pipe) over the end of the wrench for more leverage. But the hammer blows tend to work best, there's nothing like impact. Hit it hard, but just don't miss.

Didn't even try carnkaarms in a vice with breaker bar on the pedal wrench...?

Take it to a good LBS. I tried pretty much everything I could manage to remove a set of stuck pedals for a few days.
Took it to a local bike shop and 20 min later they were unstuck. It cost all of $10.
If I had know that at the start I would have taken it there in the first place instead of wasting 2 days.

Take it to a good LBS. I tried pretty much everything I could manage to remove a set of stuck pedals for a few days.
Took it to a local bike shop and 20 min later they were unstuck. It cost all of $10.
If I had know that at the start I would have taken it there in the first place instead of wasting 2 days.

You should've asked them what they did, then the experience would've been worth 2 days. A bike shop isn't some magical place that fixes bikes they do what you and I can do. Sometimes you just don't have the tools to do it.

I don't think a candle is going to provide enough heat over a large enough area. You need careful and judicious application of a torch followed by a solid pedal wrench with big ass cheater pipe and possible a few hammer blows.

Aaron:)

You should've asked them what they did, then the experience would've been worth 2 days. A bike shop isn't some magical place that fixes bikes they do what you and I can do. Sometimes you just don't have the tools to do it.

Really? :rolleyes:
Jumping to conclusions as usual?

They used a frame bender tool as leverage. I was watching them as it was done.

Try some Liquid Wrench. It is a penetrating oil made for de-sticking threads. It comes in a spray can like WD-40. Really soak the pedal spindle on both sides of the crank arm. Repeat applications, and allow it to sit overnight. Then use the big friggin' pedal wrench and a cheater bar if necessary. A towel around the handle can be useful for spreading out the pressure on your hands. Jumps or bursts of torque can help get the threads to budge initially.

Be double sure you are turning the wrench the right way. Counter-clockwise on the drive side, clockwise on the non-drive side (assuming your chainrings are on the right). I have got them backwards before, thinking I was correct the whole time. Doh.

Try some Liquid Wrench. It is a penetrating oil made for de-sticking threads. It comes in a spray can like WD-40. Really soak the pedal spindle on both sides of the crank arm. Repeat applications, and allow it to sit overnight. Then use the big friggin' pedal wrench and a cheater bar if necessary. A towel around the handle can be useful for spreading out the pressure on your hands. Jumps or bursts of torque can help get the threads to budge initially.

Be double sure you are turning the wrench the right way. Counter-clockwise on the drive side, clockwise on the non-drive side (assuming your chainrings are on the right). I have got them backwards before, thinking I was correct the whole time. Doh.

I agree with Mchaz. People tend to recommend WD40 for everything but it doesn't do this kind of job nearly as well as Liquid Wrench.

One other thing. Whenever you are using a lot of torque this close to your chainring, take the time to shift your chain onto your biggest chainring first. That way, when the pedal finally breaks loose, you'll need fewer stitches.

Try to position the pedal to the front of the bike and the wrench position to the back of the bike but more pointing at 2:00 (or 10:00 depending upon which side) Using an extension such as a pipe on the handle of the wrench, hold the pedal with one hand and the extension/wrench with the other. Using your weight, push down on the pedal, and with more pressure to the extension/wrench. It helps if you stand sorta sideways to your bike, facing the wrench.

And I usually put a rag over the chainring just in case I slip.

Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Will have to hunt down some Liquid Wrench, thanks for the tip.

To everyone who suggests attaching a pipe: what is the best pipe material, and how do you attach it tightly to the wrench? My new wrench will be the "pro" Park Tools.

Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Will have to hunt down some Liquid Wrench, thanks for the tip.

To everyone who suggests attaching a pipe: what is the best pipe material, and how do you attach it tightly to the wrench? My new wrench will be the "pro" Park Tools.

I use thick wall galvanized pipe that I have scraps laying around on the farm. A piece of fence post pipe might work too. I would avoid any really thin wall stuff. Also FWIW I use PB Blaster rather than Liquid Wrench YMMV.

Aaron:)

Really? :rolleyes:
Jumping to conclusions as usual?

They used a frame bender tool as leverage. I was watching them as it was done.

When you fail to provide information in your posts people draw their own conclusions. You want to be a jackass? I can be one too. And i'm better at it than you are. The point of my post was to learn from an experience rather than saying F it. You had to nitpick your post into an argument and be a asshat at the same time.

The tool they used is not a "frame bender" it's a fork and frame straightener. It also has a secondary use of allowing you to grip almost any handled tool available in the shop for great leverage.


Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.


No decent bike shop will give a ****. A mechanical job is a mechanical job.

lol
Congratulations, you have proven my point once again.

Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Will have to hunt down some Liquid Wrench, thanks for the tip.

To everyone who suggests attaching a pipe: what is the best pipe material, and how do you attach it tightly to the wrench? My new wrench will be the "pro" Park Tools.

It doesn't have to attach tightly to the wrench, just has to be large enough to slide over it. Then, brace the crank arm if you can, so it doesn't rotate the crank when you whack the pipe. A dead-blow hammer works best. Those have a load of lead shot BB's inside to give them increased energy at the point of impact. In other words, no bounce. Few stuck items can resist a dead-blow. Cheap ones are commonly available at any ToolTown, and you should have one in any case. A small one will work, having a head about 1" in dia.

In fact, a dead-blow might even break it loose without the pipe.

CAVEAT: with the use of any impact, you should be sure that the wrench fits snugly, or you may round off the flats on the pedal axis. This complicates things.:o

Not trying to be a wise *****, but is it possible, just possible that you are applying pressure in the wrong direction? Perhaps tightening instead of loosening? How can a pedal be so damn tight that you need such leverage and force to back it off?

Not trying to be a wise *****, but is it possible, just possible that you are applying pressure in the wrong direction? Perhaps tightening instead of loosening? How can a pedal be so damn tight that you need such leverage and force to back it off?

Dunno,
But I have one pedal off of a British 3 speed where the crank arm actually broke across the threads and left the lower part of the crank arm still attached to the pedal.:eek: Needless to say we had to scrounge up a replacement crank arm. Fortunately it was the non drive side.

Aaron:)

Use some good grease with the new peddles, so you don't have to go through the problem again.

If the pedal isn't greased that's usually where there are issues. Take it to a bike shop, if nothing else they yend to have the best tools.

If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Why? Just pay the LBS for taking off the old pedals. Period. Presumably you can screw the new ones on yourself. Don't forget to put a little grease on the new pedal threads so you don't repeat this problem.

No decent bike shop will give a ****.

Then they are are not a decent shop. Maybe your LBS experiences are just a reflection of your own attitude.:(

Then they are are not a decent shop. Maybe your LBS experiences are just a reflection of your own attitude.:(
Do you mean "decent shops" interrogate their customer's about the source of their bicycle accessories and parts? No thanks, I'll stick to places that answer my questions about their services or goods for sale.

Chances are good that most shops will pop 'em off as you stand there, it's that simple with all the tools-n-tricks they have. A couple of them around here wouldn't even charge for it, no matter where you bought the stuff. I've stopped in at a local for a quick adjustment during a ride, they do it, and I leave a gratuity to help with the pizza.

When you put you new pedals back on, you don't have to tighten them to 150 ft-lbs!

(Dislosure: This is A LOT of torque for a bicycle application. It is an exaggeration for humor's sake :D)

And a simple snug of the wrench will do. Pedalling will keep them tight. That's why the right hand pedal has a right hand thread, and the left hand pedal has a left hand thread.

I re-read all the posts, and am wondering of the pedal threads galled.

The mechanism of galling is not entirely understood, but the prevailing theory is that between similar, unlubricated materials, with a good finish, micro-welds are formed as the parts are tightened. Material attached to one piece then gets torn from the other.

You may never get those parts apart without damaging the threads. Sorry.

Galling is prevented by using proper lubricants, and/or ensuring a significant difference in hardnesses between the two pieces to be assembled.

Is your crank steel or aluminum? With unlubricated aluminum on aluminum and you can almost guarantee galling. But it can also happen between steel and steel.

I'd be interested to know what you find.

I trust you have already soaked it with WD-40.

Now use a cheater bar. Get a 6 foot length of pipe, 2 inches in diameter, and slip it over the handle of the pedal wrench.

Now, hold the handlebars and stand on the end of the pipe.

Be prepared for it to let go with a bang, a clang , and a cloud of dust.

Then they are are not a decent shop. Maybe your LBS experiences are just a reflection of your own attitude.:(

MY attitude? Excuse me?

I guarantee you, walk into our bike shop with a part and you want us to install it?

No ****ing problem. We don't care WHERE you bought it from, how you got it or how much you paid for it. The only thing you need to worry about is paying the labour for us to do the work for you.

I don't understand where this sadface is coming from. This is the truth and i'm really not trying to be an *******. If your LBS treats you like a second rate customer because you bought a part from somewhere else and you ask them to install it - find a new one.

You've obviously been biased by your LBS experiences to think interrogation on part source is normal or even acceptable. It is not and any bike shop that does this is not worth going to ever

Be careful using to much leverage. You may damage the bottom bracket or crack the housing.

Is it possible that you are starting with the left side and arent aware the
threads are reversed ?

Be careful using to much leverage. You may damage the bottom bracket or crack the housing.

Good point, bobn. It's probably best to remove the cranks and hold them in a vice with soft jaws while trying to remove the pedals.

Original Poster update:

Several people have suggested I might be turning the bolts the wrong way. I would like to see you give my pedals a whack -- it would be fun to see the beads of sweat pouring down your face.

BTW the bike is 4 months old; these are the original pedals which were put on at the factory or at the bike shop.

Meanwhile ...
* Tried Liquid Wrench -- nothin' doin'.
* Tried this again, and this time I had the privilege of using the new pedal wrench, which is longer than the other one and has one smooth end, so you can really get a good grip. Again this was after letting the liquid soak in overnight. Again ... no dice.
* By now I think the issue is that the Liquid Wrench is not reaching the necessary parts. I spray, and mostly it just falls hopelessly to the ground. So now, I have fashioned a little reservoir with aluminum foil, and have sprayed liberally ... will let this soak overnight and do some more huffing and puffing.


BTW I am NOT doing any jumping up and down on a pipe -- health insurance nowhere near good enough for that.

Original Poster update:

Several people have suggested I might be turning the bolts the wrong way. I would like to see you give my pedals a whack -- it would be fun to see the beads of sweat pouring down your face.

BTW the bike is 4 months old; these are the original pedals which were put on at the factory or at the bike shop.

Meanwhile ...
* Tried Liquid Wrench -- nothin' doin'.
* Tried this again, and this time I had the privilege of using the new pedal wrench, which is longer than the other one and has one smooth end, so you can really get a good grip. Again this was after letting the liquid soak in overnight. Again ... no dice.
* By now I think the issue is that the Liquid Wrench is not reaching the necessary parts. I spray, and mostly it just falls hopelessly to the ground. So now, I have fashioned a little reservoir with aluminum foil, and have sprayed liberally ... will let this soak overnight and do some more huffing and puffing.


BTW I am NOT doing any jumping up and down on a pipe -- health insurance nowhere near good enough for that.

Well, okay, but the pipe-jumping ploy does work - as long as you are sure you're going the right way: pipe pointed to the rear of the bike, pressure downward. You realy don't jump up and down so much as you just sort of stand on it with one foot and get a mild spring thing going. Those things should crack loose wit a little snap sound. Hopefully, it'll just be the threads snapping loose and not the crank breaking...

MY attitude? Excuse me?

I guarantee you, walk into our bike shop with a part and you want us to install it?

No ****ing problem. We don't care WHERE you bought it from, how you got it or how much you paid for it. The only thing you need to worry about is paying the labour for us to do the work for you.

I don't understand where this sadface is coming from. This is the truth and i'm really not trying to be an *******. If your LBS treats you like a second rate customer because you bought a part from somewhere else and you ask them to install it - find a new one.

You've obviously been biased by your LBS experiences to think interrogation on part source is normal or even acceptable. It is not and any bike shop that does this is not worth going to ever

I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that no decent bike shop would give a s**t about a stuck pedal, not whether or not the parts were bought there or not.

The attitude statement came from you calling the OP a jackass and an asshat.

BTW the bike is 4 months old; these are the original pedals which were put on at the factory or at the bike shop.
Any respectable bike shop gives a minimum of 6 months warranty on parts and labor. Take it back to the shop and they should get them off at no charge.

Original Poster update:......BTW the bike is 4 months old; these are the original pedals which were put on at the factory or at the bike shop......
your shop should be the ones to take them off for you

heating it would only work if the aluminum expands more then the steel.... maybe you need to freeze it hehe!

Hey, OP here, and I don't know exactly what did it, but THEY ARE OFF!

On one of them I used the tin-foil reservoir trick with the Liquid Wrench. On the other, I used a little more candle after wiping off all the oil, and watching it like a hawk.

Then to do the right pedal, I held onto the left pedal to keep the whole assembly stable. And I just kept leaning on it with the pedal wrench, and all of a sudden it just kinda yielded. No sudden pop, just a little "uhh." I tellya it was VERY satisfying.

New pedals are greased and in there!

Thanks for all your prayers and suggestions.

Yay!!