Bicycle Mechanics - BB cup sticking out?

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We installed a bottom bracket last night. It was a 68x113(what the maker said was needed). Well the cup sticks out a little bit. Maybe 1/8". Everything is good and tight and I can see the cup is flush to the bearings. I just wanted to make sure this is normal.
We figure it is for slight differences in makes but we want to make sure.
dirtbikedude
08-24-03, 07:13 AM
The right side(drive side) usually has a flange on the cup which will stick out and run flush up aginst the frame. On the other side the cup may stickout slightly with threads showing.
So yes. Some times you will see the cups showing on both sides. If it is on the left side it should not bee that much though. Maybe 1 or 2 threads at the most.
:beer: :beer:
Yeah it isn't sticking out very much.
One thing we did was apply grease to the spindles (square). Is that wise? I just read a BB intall article that said to never grease the spindle. We applied grease to the threads of the bb but not a lot should we go back in and apply more. I don't want it to start making noise.
dirtbikedude
08-24-03, 08:02 AM
No grease on the squar taper spindles. It can cause the cranks to come loose and damage the spindle and/or cranks.
Grease on the bb threads is alright. If it is the creaking noise you do not like you can try plumbers tape if the grease does not work.
Also, if your frame flexes a lot then you will just have to get used to the noise.
:beer: :beer:
dirtbikedude
08-24-03, 08:05 AM
Also are you talking road or MTB? On some road bikes because of the design of the frames, they will ressonate(sp?) noises from other parts of the bike.
It is mountain.
Here is a picture of the cup. What do you think? The bb is 68, can I get a more narrow bb?
Originally posted by dirtbikedude
No grease on the squar taper spindles. It can cause the cranks to come loose and damage the spindle and/or cranks.
It's also a guaranteed way to destroy the taper hole on the cranks at install time if you're a gorilla with the wrench. The crank arms will slide right up to the end of the axle taper, stretching the hole. At that point throw the cranks away 'cause they'll never stay tight again.
roadfix
08-24-03, 11:41 AM
It's not your B/B.......maybe just your frame's B/B shell is narrow....
Originally posted by George
It's not your B/B.......maybe just your frame's B/B shell is narrow....
I know. I was just wondering if it is normal for the cup to protrude like that?
prestonjb
08-24-03, 09:07 PM
Yea this is normal on the left side. DuraAce includes a lock nut that I guess keeps the left side from unscrewing though my ultegra bb never came loose.
roadfix
08-24-03, 09:15 PM
Originally posted by prestonjb
Yea this is normal on the left side. DuraAce includes a lock nut that I guess keeps the left side from unscrewing though my ultegra bb never came loose.
.....but aren't locknuts mostly used for non-cartridege type B/B only.......?
bbarend
08-25-03, 11:49 AM
I told you it didn't matter.
Originally posted by bbarend
I told you it didn't matter.
I don't listen to liberals.
prestonjb
08-25-03, 07:39 PM
I guess that makes sense. The DA BB is not your typical BB. It is sorta a cartridge, or at least it looks like one but it really is not. you can pull the outer shell into three pieces two threaded pieces, one center coupler.
The right threaded (cup) has a flange and you tighten it all the way till it snugs up against the outside of the right of the BB.
The center and left are fed in through the left side of the BB (don't forget the BB-axle and roller bearings) and are tightened in until basically the whole setup is pressed together.
On a Ultegra/105/other BB this is where you would stop.
So yea the DA needs the lock ring because the three-piece shell I guess isn't enough to guarantee the left piece wouldn't unscrew over time.
P.S. Speaking of the cartridge BB. We see the BB for the mountain shown here has cup on the left side. On road bike cartridges the cup is on the right side? Why?
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