Leader frames

[pathdoc]

I really have a desire to build up a cross bike.
I saw a really cheap Leader on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2007-Cyclo-Cross-Frame-in-stock-39cm-50cm-53cm-57cm_W0QQitemZ110186009139QQihZ001QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Anyone have any experience with this brand?
Thanks

[sfcrossrider]

I'd spend a bit more and get a better frame. Brake cables on the BOTTOM of the tt is a very bad sign for a cx bike.

[pathdoc]

Thanks, I hadn't noticed.

[jinws]

I'd spend a bit more and get a better frame. Brake cables on the BOTTOM of the tt is a very bad sign for a cx bike.

I just ordered one last week. Haven't picked it up from UPS yet. I went with Leader only because the Nashbar frame won't be in stock for another 3-4 months. The leader frame offers no disc brake option and also has a 130mm spacing. It was hard looking for a wheel set with 130 rear. I ended up ordering a custom set from Universalcycles.

Leader will send you a cable mount adapter for free if you wish to route the cables on top of the top tube.

I was desperate to build up a commuter bike for the rain season. Would love to spend more on a better frame, but with my budget and winter approaching, it'll do.

[arshak]

Derailleur cable guides are on the down tube, not on the bottom of the toptube.
http://www.leaderbikeusa.com/Auction%20Road/416CR/Large/416crht.jpg:rolleyes:

[M_S]

Some crit racers swear by Leader frames. Very crashable I guess, mostly because they're so cheap to replace. I guess the same logic can easily be transferred to a 'cross bike.

[xthugmurderx]

really? they're not bad. there is one sitting across the room from me. for one thing, if you shoulder the bike correctly, the cable stops aren't going to get you...you shouldn't be shouldering the bike that far back or near the front. you want the bike level when you carry it. you shouldn't be getting hit in the head by either the saddle or the stem. sometimes i wonder if people that say that the cables shouldn't be run that way have ever ridden them like that it. it's no big deal. also, as far as getting mucked up derailleur cables. that could happen. has been a non issue for me.

note: this is not my bike. built up for friend getting into racing and wife for riding around. but i'd race it if i were on a budget. i just don't think they're really that cheap when you consider it's $42 to ship and with no fork. you can get a frame and fork from chucksbikes.com for $200. unsure of shipping costs there, though. not to take business away from Leader. I've had a few of their frames and they're definitely decent. I'd risk saying that they're good, even.

[pathdoc]

I saw the frame at chucksbike you were talking about, however I'm only 5'5'' and need a small frame. I'm finding it difficult to find a frame for a guy with a 30 inch inseam.

[Toxanadu]

I saw the frame at chucksbike you were talking about, however I'm only 5'5'' and need a small frame. I'm finding it difficult to find a frame for a guy with a 30 inch inseam.

scattante frame and fork.

[billh]

The leader frame offers no disc brake option and also has a 130mm spacing. It was hard looking for a wheel set with 130 rear. I ended up ordering a custom set from Universalcycles.


Aren't all modern road rear wheels 130mm spacing?

[sfcrossrider]

really? they're not bad. there is one sitting across the room from me. for one thing, if you shoulder the bike correctly, the cable stops aren't going to get you...you shouldn't be shouldering the bike that far back or near the front. you want the bike level when you carry it. you shouldn't be getting hit in the head by either the saddle or the stem. sometimes i wonder if people that say that the cables shouldn't be run that way have ever ridden them like that it. it's no big deal. also, as far as getting mucked up derailleur cables. that could happen. has been a non issue for me.

note: this is not my bike. built up for friend getting into racing and wife for riding around. but i'd race it if i were on a budget. i just don't think they're really that cheap when you consider it's $42 to ship and with no fork. you can get a frame and fork from chucksbikes.com for $200. unsure of shipping costs there, though. not to take business away from Leader. I've had a few of their frames and they're definitely decent. I'd risk saying that they're good, even.


Yes, I do know how to shoulder a bike.

And yes, I have ridden (and raced) a converted road bike with cables on the bottom of the tt. Nothing like having a cable dig into your shoulder on a nice long run up.

CX bikes builders put the cables on the top of the tt for good reason. This frame is a road frame with canti mounts. I'm sure it will make a fine commuter, but a cx frame, it isn't.

[pathdoc]

You make a good point. I'm really attempting to put together a good commuter not a true cx.

[brew]

Pardon my ignorance, but i have been looking at those leader frames as well. Why is it so bad for the cables to be routed on the bottom of the top tube? Ive always been kind of curious about that.

[Psydotek]

Pardon my ignorance, but i have been looking at those leader frames as well. Why is it so bad for the cables to be routed on the bottom of the top tube? Ive always been kind of curious about that.

For a CX bike you want the cables routed on the top for when you shoulder the bike when running up hills. Less chance of them getting in the way (either getting your hand caught or tangled in them or having the cables dig into the paint when you throw the bike over your shoulder). Another small reason for having all the cables on the top is to keep them protected from flying mud. :)

[brew]

For a CX bike you want the cables routed on the top for when you shoulder the bike when running up hills. Less chance of them getting in the way (either getting your hand caught or tangled in them or having the cables dig into the paint when you throw the bike over your shoulder). Another small reason for having all the cables on the top is to keep them protected from flying mud. :)

ohok, haha. It figures, it was the most obvious answers that escaped me. But that makes sense.

[pathdoc]

I ordered one of these frames today. I have enough old extra part in the garage to do about 40% of the build. I'll still need a rear wheel. Not sure which derailueurs (sp?) I'll be using. I have an old set of Ultegra 9 speed brifters and bars so I at least I'll have that covered.
Still need headset, brakes, bottombracket (already have a nice older 9 speed Ultegra crank)
Should be fun.

[jinws]

I ordered one of these frames today. I have enough old extra part in the garage to do about 40% of the build. I'll still need a rear wheel. Not sure which derailueurs (sp?) I'll be using. I have an old set of Ultegra 9 speed brifters and bars so I at least I'll have that covered.
Still need headset, brakes, bottombracket (already have a nice older 9 speed Ultegra crank)
Should be fun.

Don't forget to post some pics. All my parts should be in by this Tuesday. I can't wait to build this puppie up. Although my pics will probably go in the commuter's forum.

[pathdoc]

Cool, what components are you going with?

[pathdoc]

I decided against a cheap build and went with a Campy Chorus groupo. I'll post pics once she's together.

[sfcrossrider]

What frame did you use?

[jinws]

Cool, what components are you going with?

well, i went with a cheap build. 105 shifters, drive train. some cheap cranks, and front disc.

[pathdoc]

Your bike looks great. How does it ride? What front fork did you use?
I'll be building up my bike with the same frame as yours with the leader carbon fork, cane creek brakes and headset, Thompson seatpost and a Campy Chorus groupo.

What size is your frame?
Thanks

[jinws]

Your bike looks great. How does it ride? What front fork did you use?
I'll be building up my bike with the same frame as yours with the leader carbon fork, cane creek brakes and headset, Thompson seatpost and a Campy Chorus groupo.

What size is your frame?
Thanks

Thanks. the frame is 50cm I think. top tube is about 55cm. It's bigger than my 54cm Giant. the fork is the Nashbar carbon cross fork. After riding my roadie in the rain, I really wanted disc brakes. The bike rides great, but I'm guessing that's probably because of the fatter tiress. All the little bumps in the road are gone and I'm not afraid of very little piece of glass or rock. I used to get a lot of flats on my tregular route, even with gator skins.

What I did learn is do not go cheap on headsets, if I can turn back time, I'd spend a lot more than $25. Oh well, and another thing that got me was the fact that it's so much taller. When I put my Giant next to the Leader, the leader is a good 2 inches higher.

[pathdoc]

My frame is the smallest, a 39cm. I'm 5'5'' so I hope it works for me.

[pathdoc]

Bike is being built up by the experts at Richardson Bike Mart. They called last night and said no way were my Cane Creek cantilevers going to work on the rear. It has something to do with the small compact frame sizing (39cm) and lack of cable stops of something like that. Anyone have any thoughts. They advised me to go with rear V-brake. :(

[Ronsonic]

Pathdoc, you'll see a similar brake problem in the thread by the guy with a 48cm Redline. He managed with nokon housing. 39 is a whole world smaller even.

I've been having no trouble with a V-brake, travel agent combo so you might try that as well. I don't see a reason to not go with the Vs front and back. Up front it will eliminate brake chatter.

Ron